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Perfume: The Best of 2009

Posted by Robin on 29 December 2009 220 Comments

In general, I thought 2009 was an excellent year for perfume. There was, once again, way too much new product (both niche and mainstream) and there was plenty of generic dreck if you wanted it, but there were also lots of wonderful new fragrances.

My picks and pans for the year are just below. Scroll down to see what Angela, Erin, Jessica and Kevin thought was noteworthy in 2009, or click over to Grain de Musc to see Denyse's take. And of course, do add your own thoughts in the comments.

My favorite niche fragrances for 2009: LesNez Turtle Vetiver, L'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanilla, Ineke Field Notes from Paris.

And my picks for best mainstream fragrances: John Varvatos Artisan, Hermès Eau de Pamplemousse Rose and Prada L'Eau Ambrée, plus two fragrances that straddle the line between niche and mainstream — Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d'Iris and Hermès Hermessence Vanille Galante.

Did what they were supposed to do: Versace Versense, Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne, Annick Goutal Matin d'Orage, Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte, Gucci Flora, Estee Lauder Private Collection Jasmine White Moss, Guerlain Idylle, Issey Miyake a scent by issey miyake.

Didn't do what they were supposed to: as usual, too many to list, but my biggest personal disappointment was Prada's Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger.

Best celebrity fragrance: As always, I didn't manage to smell every single one, but of what I tried, my favorite was Halle by Halle Berry, with Queen by Queen Latifah coming in second.

Best commercials: I suppose it ought to be the expensive Audrey Tatou production for Chanel No. 5, but personally I did not find it as engrossing as I expected. The magic of perfume was better captured by the 2009 FlowerbyKenzo campaign. Sienna Miller for Boss Orange was just plain fun, and props for weirdness go to Loewe's ad for Aire Loco.

Worst commercials: there are always tons of silly perfume commercials, and most years I don't even think them worth mentioning. La Prairie's multiple videos for Life Threads (we only posted two of them here, but you can find them all on YouTube) were so consistently cringeworthy I feel compelled to give them a special category of their own.

Cheap thrill of the year: Crazylibellule and The Poppies Chère Louise.

Clive Christian award for aspirational pricing: honors to the Eau de Sisley trio, Viktor & Rolf Eau Mega and the Tom Ford White Musk collection. They were not the most expensive perfumes of the year, but they all stuck in my mind for the impressive disconnect between the product and the price.

Best packaging: a tie between the young and fun Marc Jacobs Lola and the high tech cool of Kenzo Unidentified Fragrance Object.

Perfumer of the year: a tie between Isabelle Doyen and Daniela Andrier. Doyen's work at Annick Goutal and Andrier's at Prada have placed these two houses firmly on my "must try everything they make" list.

Angela's Best of 2009

Looking back at 2009, I'm surprised to see I only bought four new bottles of perfume. But I did have a few revelations and a few reminders:

Buy Used: This year I found Guerlain Mitsouko Parfum de Toilette ($12), a full bottle of Creed Fleurissimo ($12), Rochas Femme parfum ($8), Patou Eau de Joy ($8), Keiko Mecheri Passiflora ($10) and more by thrifting.

Expensive Candles Are Worth It: I never used to think paying over $10 for a scented candle was worth the cash. I mean, you burn it up and it's gone. Then Kevin's seductive review of a Cire Trudon candle enticed me to shell out for the Roi de Soleil candle, and I'm hooked. I need at least three more. Those things are gorgeous.

Perfume People Are Fabulous: This year I've met so many funny, smart, generous, fascinating, creative, inspiring people thanks to writing for Now Smell This. They are people I hope I know the rest of my life. Thank you!

Erin's Best of 2009

Despite the copious bad news the year brought us — IFRA restrictions, the closing of the B Never Too Busy brand, the further defacing of Diorissimo and, oh, the IFRA restrictions — I thought 2009 was a good year for perfume. There were a surprising number of superior multiple releases, starting early in the year with the North American availability of three fabulous 2008 additions to the Humiecki & Graef line: Eau Radieuse, Geste and Askew. All three scents were created by perfumer Christophe Laudamiel, who by now surely counts as my perfumer of the decade. For me, other than oud, the trend of the year seemed to be surprisingly juicy top notes: see Parfums DelRae Emotionelle, Hermès Eau de Pamplemousse Rose and Diptyque L'Eau de Tarocco for reference. Other favorite 2009 scents included Hermèssence Vanille Galante, Issey Miyake a scent by issey miyake, Comme des Garçons Daphne, Eau Divine by Divine and Van Cleef & Arpels Collection Extraordinaire Bois d'Iris and Gardénia Pétale. I've sampled a lot of the buzzed about fragrances this year, but I'm still lemming Ormonde Jayne Tiare and (especially) Christian Dior Ambre Nuit.

Jessica's Best of 2009

Even in a rough economy, fragranced body care somehow seems like an allowable small luxury, and 2009 brought some good choices at various price levels. I enjoyed sampling Diptyque’s new L’Art du Soin (The Art of Body Care) line; it’s a well-designed group of products, with evocative scents and lush textures. For a more wallet-friendly simple pleasure, I was happy to find out about Wembé Soaps, chunky little all-natural bars with scents and ingredients inspired by the Amazonian rainforest. I feel very practical when I use my multi-purpose Rose Hydrosol from Enfleurage. It smells like slightly bruised rose petals, and it works as a gentle facial toner, a mid-day facial refresher, and a bedtime linen spray. And falling somewhere between luxury and simplicity, Wash With Joe Coffeemint Invigorating Body Wash has become part of my morning shower routine; it never fails to perk me up (pun intended).

For perfume, some of my new favorites were affordable fragrances that also happened to have charming packaging. Crazylibellule and the Poppies’ Les Garçonnes line was destined to be a hit with me, just because of its women-of-the-1920s theme, and I really fell for Josephine Jonquille and Rose à Saïgon in particular. Tokyo Milk made me smile with its sweetly labeled and reasonably priced scents, especially Waltz; and Bath & Body Works lured me back to the mall with P.S. I Love You. In a more upscale vein, my vote for the most impressively consistent high-end fragrance launch, from its promotional literature to its range of products to the scents themselves, goes to Maison Francis Kurkdjian. And for the most glaring discrepancy between style and substance, I’ll name Dolce & Gabbana, for The D&G Fragrance Anthology collection as well as Rose The One. Lastly, one mention of a big name in niche perfume who has reintroduced us to his makeup-artist roots: Serge Lutens Makeup Remover Pads priced at $35. If I need to cut corners, something like this is very easy for me not to buy.

Kevin's Best of 2009

I’ve been bellyaching to Robin this fall that 2009 was not a great year for perfume, but as I put together my “favorites” list, I realized the year wasn’t so bad after all!

First, a wish I made in 2008 came true in 2009; Anya’s Garden made a perky cologne version of its Kaffir Eau de Parfum (thanks!) Nasomatto makes my Best of 2009 list with two drug-inspired perfumes: China White and Black Afgano. In spring, I enjoyed Hermès Eau de Pamplemousse Rose and Eau de Gentiane Blanche. (Eau de Gentiane Blanche was one of my few full-bottle purchases this year.) Humiecki & Graef Eau Radieuse and Olivier Durbano Turquoise jolted me out of the summer doldrums with their cool and clear notes. I love oud, and this year saw the debut of my favorite oud perfume (so far): Le Labo Oud 27. I also love vetiver and I’m still kicking myself for not buying a bottle of the sensational, sold out, LesNez Turtle Vetiver Exercise No. 1. Parfum d’Empire Wazamba is a bold take on pine-y incense with fruit (a great combination). Two orange blossom fragrances make my list this year: John Varvatos Artisan and Ineke Field Notes from Paris. Pacifica lost my soap business (no suds!) but keeps producing fun, high-quality-smelling (and inexpensive) fragrances like Malibu Lemon Blossom. The D.S. & Durga line created some interesting fragrances this year; my favorites: Cowboy Grass and $. Tom Ford Private Blend disappointed me with its White Musk Collection, but did release the great mossy-resinous Italian Cypress. Finally, there’s Terre d’Hermès — in parfum.

My favorite scented candle of the year? Jonathan Adler’s sweet-smoky-sweaty Hashish. Diptyque’s perfumed soaps and its L’Art du Soin line of body care products are wonderful, especially the Rich Butter for the Body (Crème Riche), scented with rose, Peru balsam and myrrh. Happy New Year everyone!

Note: image is Bottles & Reflections (Revised) [a photograph of Josiah McElheny's "Modernity, Mirrored and Reflected Infinitely"; cropped and colored] by dvaires at flickr; some rights reserved.

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: best of

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220 Comments

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  1. dee says:
    29 December 2009 at 10:21 am

    Reading best of 2009 is a fun and inspirational way for this new perfumista (frag hag?) to start the day.
    Thanks for sharing!!!

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 11:56 am

      Glad you enjoyed it!

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      • Julia says:
        30 December 2009 at 12:54 pm

        My best perfume find all year was this blog. Thank you so much to all of you who work tirelessly behind the scenes to produce such a fun, friendly, and accessible blog about the joy of fragrance. I’ve told my story before, but short version is I’ve always worn perfume, same one – inexpensive and inoffensive for years – with occasional forays into something like Fresh or Coco Mlle. I accidentally came across you guys while recovering from surgery, and my life was changed. Seriously. That night I was ordering samples from TPC (I started with the “French Legends” pack) and it has grown into a full blown obsession and a pretty impressive wardrobe of fine fragrances, really good fragrances, some fun stuff, and a few stinkers. I vacillate between stages three and five of perfumista-ship, with the occasional foray into the latest one – rampant cynicism. I look forward to your articles every day, and I feel like I have made some real friends on the board. The posters here are the best and I hope everybody has a wonderful, smelly New Year! XOXO – J

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        • Robin says:
          30 December 2009 at 1:26 pm

          It’s so cool that you were ordering from TPC before 24 hours had passed! Thanks for all the kind words 🙂

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    • Abyss says:
      29 December 2009 at 3:45 pm

      Frag hag, ha! I love it!

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  2. T-Rex says:
    29 December 2009 at 10:31 am

    “Frag hag” is an awesome term. I’m going to use it.

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 11:56 am

      🙂

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    • Kimberly G says:
      29 December 2009 at 8:28 pm

      Me too……..I love it 🙂

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    • Zeezee says:
      31 December 2009 at 7:30 am

      Frag hag is seriously cool.
      I recently started calling myself a fraggle. Remember them? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fraggle_Rock

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  3. Suzanne941 says:
    29 December 2009 at 11:26 am

    Best of 2009: NST coverage of the tsunami of new perfumes, because there’s just too much for us readers to keep up with! Reading your list, I realized the only new one I HAD tried was Havana Vanille. whew…
    Thanks for a great year with great people!

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 11:59 am

      Thank you! And hey, you’re behind on sampling, LOL…

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    • mals86 says:
      29 December 2009 at 3:55 pm

      Exactly! I always come here *first*.

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    • Rappleyea says:
      29 December 2009 at 5:23 pm

      Totally agree on the NST coverage, and love your use of the word tsunami to describe the volume of new launches.

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    • Bela says:
      30 December 2009 at 8:38 am

      The association of the words ‘tsunami’ and ‘new perfumes’ is rather unfortunate, don’t you think, considering 220,000 people died in the tsunami that struck Indonesia on 26 Dec 2004.

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      • ami says:
        30 December 2009 at 1:03 pm

        Bela, why must you be always so negative?
        optimistic happy new year to you 🙂

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    • Julia says:
      30 December 2009 at 12:58 pm

      Contact me on MUA – julia941, or ask Daisy or Miss Kitty to get my email address. I’m pretty sure it is coming for my birthday (which was yesterday, but my dad is making me wait until he gets here for the football game on Saturday!). I want to send you some. 🙂

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  4. klytaemnestra says:
    29 December 2009 at 11:42 am

    I’ve found that buying used is a wonderful way to get your hands on a unique or luxury fragrance without breaking your budget, it also opens up a world of vintage perfumes.

    eBay Estate Sales are a wonderful way to snag unopened bottles of classic fragrances.

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 12:09 pm

      I wish I had Angie’s luck (not really luck but persistence I guess) — she really finds amazing bargains!

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    • mals86 says:
      29 December 2009 at 12:38 pm

      I swear by ebay for vintage.

      I’ll point out that even opened bottles are worth it, on occasion – that “angelic clouds of glory” bottle of vintage No. 5 parfum I rave about had been opened, and very little of it used. Arpege in extrait, at first seeming waaaay too rich, has grown on me. And that itty-bitty 2ml bottle of Jolie Madame in extrait, half gone, is gorgeous – women should smell like that! Vintage Sortilege and Je Reviens are so pretty and wearable.

      I’d never have had the chance to smell any of these Proper Perfumes without being encouraged by Angela’s reviews of vintage this-n-that to hunt up some of the golden oldies – so once again, thanks to Angela in particular for the vintage search tips.

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      • Rappleyea says:
        29 December 2009 at 5:27 pm

        And thirding eBay for vintage. *Most* of the sellers (at least the ones I’ve dealt with) are both honest and nice.

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        • Julia says:
          30 December 2009 at 1:15 pm

          Fourth, here. Nothing but wonderful experiences with vintage perfume sellers. Many of them are people who search thrift stores and garage sales and put up what they have, sometimes not knowing the value. I a bottle of vintage Shalimar somebody found at a Church swap for about $1 (a sealed Rosebud bottle with tax stamps for a buck!). She was so grateful she sent me a personal message thanking me for buying it for so much money. Honestly, I got a very good deal and would have gone much higher but she must have set the reserve low and nobody was really bidding against me. She told me what a wonderful Christmas this was going to be and that my purchase enabled her to get something really special for her grandson. Assuming everything is true, and I think it is though my husband is a cynic, we both won. I’m wearing it today and thinking of her!

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          • Robin says:
            30 December 2009 at 1:28 pm

            Wow!!

  5. AnnS says:
    29 December 2009 at 11:44 am

    Wow – I really enjoyed reading all your best lists, and then realized that I’ve only tried a handful of them. I spent so much of this year finding and stocking up on oldies and goodies that are being facelifted beyond recognition that I have some major catching up to do on new stuff. Although I will say that I love the new Kenzo Flower Essentielle – so much like the original Flower, but yet smoother and more polished.

    And Robin, I agree about your “doing what they were supposed to do list” with Flora, Jas White Moss, and Matin d’Orage (my vote for fragrance most like art). The lists above will be my guideposts for picking out samples to test for 2010.

    In 2009, I did find a number of excellent vintage fragrances, including some vintage Magie Noir, vintage Chamade, vintage No 5… But I’ll remember 2009 as my “Classics Year” — the breakthrough year when No 5 parfum, Mitsouko, and Joy all revealed their beauties to me and changed my perception on fragrances forever.

    And thinking of fragrances of the past and present, I was considering the other day, which of the current fragrances on the market or new releases could we imagine will still be produced 50 to 100 years from now?

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 12:14 pm

      You know, I ought to have included the Kenzo FE on the “did what they were supposed to do” list. I didn’t love it, but it was really terribly well done.

      And your last question is perfect for a poll!! We’ll do that soon.

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    • Julia says:
      30 December 2009 at 1:28 pm

      Ann, let me help you. You turned me on to SSS and I have developed such a wonderful relationship with Laurie that I would really like to help you with the classic Guerlains. julia941@ MUA.

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  6. Joe says:
    29 December 2009 at 11:46 am

    Great lists, and I think it was a great year. I certainly spent plenty of money on this “frivolous” hobby.

    I’m sure that I’m forgetting something major, but my faves included:
    – Eau de Gentiane Blanche
    – Vanille Galante
    – L’Eau de Tarocco
    – Amaranthine
    – Epic Woman
    – Orris Root (D.S. & Durga)
    – DelRae Mythique

    I still anticipate trying Havana Vanille & Al Oudh. And yes, as much as I’ve enjoyed the scents themselves, I’m grateful for the laughs, insights, and amazing GENEROSITY provided by Robin, the contributors, and the terrific community of commenters and perfume friends here!

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 12:17 pm

      Both Epic Woman & Mythique are beautiful fragrances that just didn’t speak to me. I’m going to try them again next year & see if I come around. Amaranthine just came to late to get any consideration this year.

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  7. violetnoir says:
    29 December 2009 at 11:57 am

    My favorites this year, in no particular order:
    MDCI Vepres Siciliennes
    Hermes Vanille Galante
    AG Un Matin d’Orage
    Prada L’Eau Ambree
    Hermes Eau de Gentiane Blanche
    AG Mandragore Pourpre
    MFK Cologne Pour le Soir
    VCA Gardenia Petale
    Cartier Les Heures XIII
    Guerlain Paris-New York

    I really thought I would love Bond No. 9’s Success Is a Job and Penhaligon’s Amaranthine, but I didn’t.

    Also, I need to smell and test OJ Tiare and Ineke’s Field Notes from Paris.

    Hugs!

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 12:17 pm

      And I didn’t even try the Cartiers, or the Guerlain city things. Bad on me! But I’ve come to realize I can’t try everything & not going to kill myself trying.

      Hugs to you!

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  8. london says:
    29 December 2009 at 12:00 pm

    I was disappointed by 2009 overall compared with the last couple of years. The VC&A collection and the Cartier collection were fine but nothing grabbed me. I preferred the Maison Francis Kurkdjian line but I really need to explore that properly in the Summer. My votes for best of the year go to MAC Naked Honey in the cheap thrills category, Halston Woman in the mid range category and OJ Tiare in the niche category. All of these probably also qualify for the biggest surprise prize as well. House of the year is a tie between Annick Goutal, Penhaligon’s and Amouage. Their output this year may not always be to my taste but I admire what they are trying to do (and Ninfeo Mio is my biggest lemming). Artisan house of the year is Liz Zorn. I can’t say I have tried them all but she is constantly doing interesting things and she is just so nice. My favourite candle discovery of the year is Annick Goutal’s Ambre. I just hope they don’t discontinue it in favour of Ambre Fetiche which is not the same thing at all. Villain of the year is Serge Lutens. Cellophane was meh, Aiguilles was horrid and for the first time ever I couldn’t even bring myself to make the effort to track down Fourreau Noir.

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 12:18 pm

      Nice round-up! Totally agree about MAC Naked Honey, that was a great cheapie, although it certainly wasn’t around very long.

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      • Julia says:
        30 December 2009 at 1:32 pm

        I never even got to sniff it, but Tokyo Milk’s Honey and the Moon is a nice honey scent and a cheap thrill at around $25.

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  9. parfumliefhebber says:
    29 December 2009 at 12:05 pm

    Great lists, a pleasure to read the article. I realized that I only have tried a few of them. Thank you for the great perfume reviews. And as I don’t know whether I will be in the internet the next days I wish all of you: “Een heel gelukkig nieuwjaar en vooral heel veel gezondheid!” and many many sniffs for the next year!

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 12:39 pm

      Enjoy your days of peace, and see you in 2010!

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  10. perfumegeek says:
    29 December 2009 at 12:06 pm

    Thanks for the great articles, reviews, and online deal alerts….all of you at NST are so awesome for sharing your knowledge, opinion and experience with the rest of us.

    Santa was good to me this Christmas, I got a FB of Ineke Field Notes from Paris! No more gingerly dabbing from the sample vial 🙂

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 12:39 pm

      Yay, lucky you! Such a pretty bottle too.

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      • perfumegeek says:
        30 December 2009 at 8:52 am

        Oh yes, the bottle is so elegant. It makes me want to sample all the rest of the Ineke A-E line. What happens when she gets to Z?

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        • Robin says:
          30 December 2009 at 9:30 am

          I’ve been wondering the same about Sue Grafton’s mystery series! She’s already at U.

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          • Joe says:
            30 December 2009 at 1:16 pm

            Do you keep up with Grafton, R? I feel like I should give her a try since she’s local and I believe her series might even be set in my city… but I’ve never picked her up.

          • Robin says:
            30 December 2009 at 1:30 pm

            They’re good beach reads, but I lost steam somewhere in the M-N-O area. Like many mystery series, they got too formulaic after awhile. But hear the newer ones are her best.

          • miss kitty v. says:
            30 December 2009 at 1:55 pm

            Joe, I would agree with Robin that her books have gotten formulaic, but she is a fun read. I’ve given up on most fiction (something always irks me at some point), but I love her voice in those books. She’s got a nice sense of humor. They’re worth picking up.

  11. chasa says:
    29 December 2009 at 12:08 pm

    I adore and truly appreciate these “best of” lists — I was just referring to the “100 fragrances every perfumista should try” list earlier today in putting together a sample order. It would simply be too overwhelming for me to explore the world of fragrances without the wonderful suggestions/reviews from NST (and others) as a guide.

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 1:15 pm

      So glad they’re helpful!

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  12. CynthiaW says:
    29 December 2009 at 12:09 pm

    Hmmm… 2009 was both a good and bad year for me. Good in that I discovered so many wonderful fragrances and made some fabulous friends (and co-conspirators) through NST. Bad in that my budget may never be the same – but I’ll smell fabulous.

    My favorite new releases of the year: Epic Woman, Vanille Galante, Back to Black, Alien Liqueur. Which isn’t to say that they’re the only ones that I bought – I also love Cristalle Eau Verte, Une Rose Chyrpee, Jasmine White Moss, and Naked Honey.

    I was actually surprised to see that I had bought that many new releases because I spent much of the year sniffing (and buying) classics and previous releases. And, yes, this was the year that I finally “got” Chanel No. 5 – of course, it was also the year that I finally tried it in parfum.

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    • AnnS says:
      29 December 2009 at 12:45 pm

      Yes, that was the big difference for me as well – to try No 5 in parfum. It is a good thing as Mals points out above that you can still find fairly good buys on vintage and partially used No 5 on ebay. And I need to try that Epic Woman already!!

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 1:16 pm

      Oh, I feel terrible that I forgot the TM Liqueur set. I would have included the Angel one on my list if I’d remembered.

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    • Julia says:
      30 December 2009 at 1:35 pm

      I hope that this year I can come to terms with No. 5. I’m slowly learning to tolerate aldeyhdes, and I hope I can appreciate some of the classic aldehydic florals this year.

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  13. Filomena says:
    29 December 2009 at 12:39 pm

    I love “Best of” lists! However, 4I realized that I hadn’t even tried half of them–but I’ll have something to look forward to in 2010, plus all the other new overload of fragrances that will be out. I have to agree with CynthiaW regarding Une Rose Chypree–I thought it was a little jewel of a perfume.
    Thanks to all and Happy New Year!

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 1:17 pm

      A very happy New Year to you too!

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  14. Carlos BFL 319 says:
    29 December 2009 at 12:42 pm

    Great reading! Thanks. Will have to come by later and list my personal fav’s when I’m NOT at work. HA! 🙂

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 1:17 pm

      LOL — get back to work!

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  15. helenviolette says:
    29 December 2009 at 1:03 pm

    Ditto the thanks for the work you all do 😉 I am with Angela in my new appreciation for candles (thanks also to Kevin) and have been trolling the web looking for Cire Trudon deals (Cielo home has a few on sale, btw) They are glorious and I too am hooked. I did not buy very much this year but have been enjoying the perfume I amassed in 2008!

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 1:17 pm

      I’m afraid I’m going to cave on a Cire Trudon in 2010 myself…and so far, the most I’ve spent on a candle is $35.

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      • helenviolette says:
        29 December 2009 at 1:25 pm

        well R- if you don’t cave you won’t ever know the joy (kind of like people who choose to not have kids 😉

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        • Robin says:
          29 December 2009 at 1:56 pm

          LOL — perfect way to justify buying *anything*!

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          • Suzanne941 says:
            29 December 2009 at 2:43 pm

            HelenV: I am going to have to cave on those too…now that you mentioned a site where they’re on sale. Would love to check those out!
            My personal ‘fume highlight of 2009: FB of 31 Rue Cambon for Xmas from hubby! He did all right!

          • helenviolette says:
            29 December 2009 at 5:29 pm

            Robin I am good at rationalizing luxuries 😉 And Suzanne, that is a wonderful gift. congrats.

      • Gilty says:
        29 December 2009 at 4:18 pm

        The Cire Trudon candles are really worth the price in my view. I got the Empire one and it smells amazing and has great throw. I think Kevin wrote that he was asked to keep his in the box when it wasn’t being burned….now that’s one powerful candle!

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  16. Robin R. says:
    29 December 2009 at 1:09 pm

    I’m always grateful for these Best and Worst of annual reviews, so thanks Robin, Angela, Kevin, Erin and Jessica. In this crazy world of a zillion new releases bombarding us over the last 12 months, it’s really helpful to have you experts separate the wheat from the chaff.

    My vote for Most Heartening Comment of 2009: Robin’s admission that she hasn’t sniffed the Cartiers yet. Wheeee!!! If even SHE has trouble keeping up, then there’s hope for the rest of us.

    It was a very good year, wasn’t it? My very favourite release was Tauer Perfume’s Une Rose Chypree. Other greatest hits were VC&A Bois d’Iris, MFK Cologne pour le Soir, DelRae Mythique, Cartier XIII, Amouage Epic Woman and Tribute attar, Prada l’Eau d’Ambree, Guerlain Bois Torride, Montale Louban (doesn’t seem to be on anyone else’s radar??), SSS Lieu de Reves and Tabac Aurea, and Parfums d’Empire Wazamba. Guilty pleasure: Tom Ford Arabian Wood.

    Minor disappointments: Penhaglion Amaranthine, TDC Oriental Lounge, l’Artisan Havana Vanille (sorry, guys).

    I’m now bound and determined to track down some of that LesNez Turtle Vetiver. Oops, what a sec. It’s all gone? You didn’t leave any for me?????????

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 1:32 pm

      R, I think Luckyscent still has the Turtle Vetiver, but don’t know about samples. I am seriously considering picking up a bottle, but wish it was a wee bit cheaper.

      No, did not try that Montale — never even heard of it. Montale is another I just can’t keep up with — they do so very many, and it’s hard to even tell what they’ve released since their website is so useless.

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      • Robin R. says:
        30 December 2009 at 12:40 am

        Looks like Luckyscent still has it, R. I’ll grab a sample and you grab a bottle. You’ve been a hard-working blogmistress this year and you’ve earned every millileter. 😉

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        • Robin says:
          30 December 2009 at 9:32 am

          It really is tempting. But so far I’ve bought nothing this quarter and I like the idea of that, so can’t buy anything new until the end of the week 🙂

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          • Robin R. says:
            30 December 2009 at 12:17 pm

            That’s my dream for 2010: that I’ll slowwwwwwww down and lose this desire (desperate NEED might be more accurate!) to own every single thing that turns my head. And I feel it, Robin, I feel it happening!

            Next thing you know, I’ll start to get cynical. Then I’d have to eat some humble pie. 😉

          • Robin says:
            30 December 2009 at 12:24 pm

            LOL…yes, you will! Seriously though, I think the urge to buy still hits me every so often, but not nearly so often as it used to. And the cynicism helps with that! It all works together 🙂

    • OperaFan says:
      30 December 2009 at 10:16 am

      Robin R. – I LOVED Louban!
      I think it’s so much more “refined and ladylike” than what most expect from Montale that it didn’t grab the kind of attention it deserves.

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      • Robin R. says:
        30 December 2009 at 12:13 pm

        Yes, yes, yes, OF!!! So glad you found it and loved it. I think that so many people, as Robin said, get a little frustrated by the Montale website and the sheer number of releases. I think maybe the house is so well-known for its blockbuster oudhs, too, that gorgeous things like Louban and Crystal Flowers and Chypre Fruitee and all the incredibly beautiful, high-quality roses get overlooked. Hope that changes. 😉

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        • Robin says:
          30 December 2009 at 12:24 pm

          Tell them to fix their website! I’d love to report on Montale, but it honestly is not worth the time investment to keep track of what is new and what isn’t.

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        • OperaFan says:
          30 December 2009 at 1:23 pm

          Robin K – thread getting a bit thin at this level so I upped it one (don’t think RR will mind!)
          Nazarin at the Perfume Shoppe seems to get a lot of Montales that you don’t find in other US distribution points, so she might be the place to go. I bought my Taif Roses from her this year (not unlike A.Maze, which also incorporates the Taif).

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          • Robin R. says:
            31 December 2009 at 12:45 pm

            Excellent suggestion, OF. In fact, I’ve never needed to venture into the black vortex which is the Montale website, since I live in Vancouver and just have to wander down to The Perfume Shoppe, have a chat with dear Nasrin, and poke around her amazing selection of Montales. (I think she’s got every one of them, in fact.)

            For out-of-towners, TPS’s website is great and Naz has a sample program and a busy and efficient mail-order service, so you can zero in on what you might like to try and take it from there!

  17. sharviss says:
    29 December 2009 at 1:11 pm

    Ooh! A “best of” list! Who doesn’t love a good list?

    This is my first year of being a frag hag (thanks dee!) so everything was new. Well,everything that’s not Angel. It’s hard for me to narrow things down to specific perfumes because there were so many that opened my eyes to what perfume could be.
    The houses that most consistently impressed me this past year are: Amouage, Penhaligon’s, ELdO, Serge Lutens, Santa Maria Novella, Parfumerie Generale and lots I’m not thinking of right now.

    Thanks to all of the writers and commenters for such a fun blog! I’ve really enjoyed getting to know everyone through their posts and comments.

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 1:56 pm

      What fun — welcome to perfumanity!

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    • dee says:
      29 December 2009 at 6:00 pm

      I definitely stole that term from someone on this site (reference the stages of perfumista, I think). Can’t take the credit–wish I was that clever : )

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      • Robin says:
        29 December 2009 at 6:46 pm

        It’s been around even longer than that — it was already in use on MakeupAlley in 2003/2004.

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  18. taniasanchez says:
    29 December 2009 at 2:04 pm

    This blog makes my personal best-of year after year. Thanks for maintaining this fantastic resource for the perfume community so consistently for so long!

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 2:29 pm

      Thanks so much Tania.

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    • Julia says:
      30 December 2009 at 1:47 pm

      Thank you very much! Your reviews always make me laugh!

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  19. damselfly says:
    29 December 2009 at 2:27 pm

    Oh, crikeys – what a great post, but I just got a new computer with Windows 7 and now I can’t view the videos you’ve linked to (sorry to go off-topic…)

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 2:30 pm

      I’m using Windows 7 — have a feeling it must be something else. What browser are you using?

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      • damselfly says:
        29 December 2009 at 4:15 pm

        DOH! After clicking repeatedly on the broken links the computer finally prompted me to install Adobe Flash Player. Now the links work.
        Re: perfume – as a long-time Paris lover my biggest disappointment was Parisienne. It turns way too jammy on me. This was actually my year to discover some “oldies” – a relative gave me a collection of perfume miniatures; most of it’s not to my taste, but the vintage Jolie Madame and Norell – very nice.

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        • Robin says:
          29 December 2009 at 6:47 pm

          Glad you figured it out!

          I’ve got a bit of vintage Jolie Madame — wonderful stuff! Have not tried vintage Norell, but certainly don’t care for the recent versions.

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    • SmokeyToes says:
      29 December 2009 at 3:29 pm

      Could it be your cookies setting? I’m not a computer expert-but sometimes that helps or hinders things….

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      • damselfly says:
        29 December 2009 at 4:16 pm

        Thanks for the hint. It wasn’t the cookies…this time 🙂

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  20. Karin says:
    29 December 2009 at 2:32 pm

    Well, I’m way behind on sampling new releases, but have purchased a couple of bottles – 3 Fleurs, Parisienne, and Havana Vanille.

    Parisienne was a bit of a disappointment – first time I wore it, I smelled it for about 10 minutes, then it disappeared. Wore it again, and it seemed to stick around a bit longer. I’m in love with the bottle, and turns out I’m not as unhappy with the scent as I first thought.

    Havana Vanille is my latest purchase – on its way to me from Beautyhabit. Hoping I like it! I sniffed it on a card at Barney’s a few weeks ago, but haven’t tried it on skin. Smelled like straight up vanilla extract on the card…

    3 Fleurs is my vote for best of 2009 of the scents I’ve tried. Beautiful scent. Also tried Wazamba, but it’s not my style, so didn’t care for it.

    On my “to try” list of new releases – Amaranthine, Vanille Galante, and Idylle

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    • Jill says:
      29 December 2009 at 3:00 pm

      Parisienne has really grown on me. I was underwhelmed too at first, and then just kept going back to it for some reason, and now it’s kind of a go-to for me.

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 6:47 pm

      Hope you’ll adore your Havana Vanille! And if you hate it, send it to me 😉

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      • Karin says:
        29 December 2009 at 7:59 pm

        Ha! Will do!!! 🙂

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  21. Sunnyfunny says:
    29 December 2009 at 2:41 pm

    This is my first year of being a frag hag, too! I found true loves in Chanel No. 22 and Tabac Blond, learned how to appreciate Chanel No. 5, realised most everything written about skank is hyperbole (except the first 10 minutes of MKK 😉 ), learned aldehydes aren’t just for embalming, rediscovered a long-lost fume from my childhood, bought more bottles of fume than shoes and purses combined, and made some wonderful new friends.

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 6:48 pm

      You’ve done very well in your first year!

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    • Julia says:
      30 December 2009 at 1:49 pm

      I love your avatar and I adore skank. 😉

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      • SmokeyToes says:
        31 December 2009 at 2:01 pm

        Ditto-love the avatar (and skank)

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  22. Dzingnut says:
    29 December 2009 at 2:42 pm

    “Perfumanity”, “Frag Hag” AND a Best Of List … best blog EVAH! Even though I won’t sniff many of these frags, reading NST every day makes me feel as good as if I had – thank you so much!!

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 6:48 pm

      So glad 🙂

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  23. Jill says:
    29 December 2009 at 2:59 pm

    I really enjoyed reading about everyone’s favorites! I have to agree that Parisienne is a very solid “did what it was supposed to do” entry. I expected little from it, but it has become kind of a staple for me over the past couple of months. And my sister gave my mom Queen for Christmas, and I think it’s lovely. Love Chere Louise for Cheap Thrill too!

    This is such a fun and informative blog, thanks so much!

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 6:48 pm

      I hear Parisienne is selling very well, and do think it deserves it.

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      • lemonprint says:
        30 December 2009 at 1:42 am

        Do you have recommendations about where to look for it? Because it’s actually the only thing I decided I liked this year that I DIDN’T buy, and I’m not stumbling across it anywhere…

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        • Karin says:
          30 December 2009 at 7:39 am

          Where do you live? Macy’s carries it, as well as most of the big non-discount department stores.

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        • Robin says:
          30 December 2009 at 9:34 am

          Yes, and Sephora has it too.

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  24. Abyss says:
    29 December 2009 at 3:13 pm

    Nice to read everyone’s summaries! I thought it was a good year too, there were a number of new releases which I enjoyed even if I didn’t necessarily love them enough to buy – Epic, Vanille Galante, CdG Daphne, Magnolia Nobile to name a few.

    The two frags that really stood out for me were Mandragore Pourpre and Amaranthine. Both were pleasant surprises as I didn’t expect to like them but I found myself really enjoying wearing both.

    Havana Vanille, OJ Tiare, the Cartiers and the VC&As are at the top of my to try list still.

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 6:49 pm

      Really glad to see so many mentions of Amaranthine. Still not sure what I think of it, but it’s a stretch for Penhaligon’s, so happy to see it paying off.

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  25. miss kitty v. says:
    29 December 2009 at 3:23 pm

    This year was a great year, perfume gathering-wise, and a *horrible* year financially. I like to alternately blame and thank NST for this. 🙂 This blog and the wonderful people on it have been my perfume gateway drug. (And sometimes it’s own addiction, when I sit at work telling myself “I will not log onto NST today, I will not log onto NST today…” or have a Pavlovian response to the word “split.”) Thank you all so much for the good times and poverty! I may end up pushing a shopping cart down Burnside, but I’ll smell good!

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    • mals86 says:
      29 December 2009 at 3:59 pm

      Hey, I’ve got a great cardboard shack… want to join me?

      I feel exactly the same: great year for me, bad year for my spending.

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      • lilydale aka Natalie says:
        29 December 2009 at 10:33 pm

        Ah, but is that a Cire Trudon I smell in your cardboard box?

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        • Suzanne941 says:
          30 December 2009 at 8:43 am

          AHHRGH! Get thee behind me!

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      • miss kitty v. says:
        30 December 2009 at 11:28 am

        Maybe we can all start a perfumista commune, and homestead somewhere? 🙂

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      • Julia says:
        30 December 2009 at 1:52 pm

        You will both come live with me. Next week I will have TWO empty bedrooms as another child moves away to college.

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    • AnnS says:
      29 December 2009 at 4:05 pm

      Oh, Miss Kitty… Having once lived in the temperate land of the cruel, wheel locked & beeping grocery cart… I can tell you that if you really need one now, I’d have no problems procuring the cadillac of carts. Here in the land of frigid winters we have tons and tons of lovely plastic smooth driving grocery carts, with nary a beep or rattle to be heard. I’ll send one to you with a nice bow on it!! And some splits & samples so at least you smell good! I myself have gone the way of burlap sacks and holey socks! And do I care if I have this year’s fashions if my fragrance is 80 years old? I say no!

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      • miss kitty v. says:
        30 December 2009 at 11:27 am

        I totally jinxed myself when I was five years old and told my mom I wanted to live in a refrigerator box. (I had turned it into my “spaceship,” and had decorated accordingly. In retrospect, I can’t believe my mom let me keep that thing in our living room, and for as long as she did.)

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      • Julia says:
        30 December 2009 at 1:55 pm

        YAY! Me too. I wear t-shirts and jeans, but only the finest vintage fragrances. And I can teach you how to unravel an old sweater and knit yourself a new pair of socks.

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    • Rappleyea says:
      29 December 2009 at 5:40 pm

      LOL at “Pavlovian response to the word split”. I also have that response to the word discontinued.

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      • miss kitty v. says:
        30 December 2009 at 11:22 am

        I have to share that I kept writing the same typo over and over, swearing to myself: “I have a Pavlovian response to the word spit.” Took me forever to get the “l” in there. Glad I finally got it right and you all were able to understand me.

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    • dee says:
      29 December 2009 at 6:06 pm

      Burnside?? You’re in Portland? I wonder if you might be willing to spend some afternoon helping me spend my hard-earned money on unnecessary-yet-magically-delicious perfumes??
      dee howe on MUA!

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      • miss kitty v. says:
        30 December 2009 at 11:22 am

        Just sent you (or someone with your name) a message on MUA. 🙂

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 6:51 pm

      Miss Kitty, I love perfume as a hobby, or whatever you want to call it, but it isn’t cheap, and it’s taken me quite a few years to calm down and not “need” everything. You’ll get there.

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      • ScentRed says:
        30 December 2009 at 10:45 am

        Robin, I’m oddly reassured to know that you weren’t always a model of perfume buying restraint 😉

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        • Robin says:
          30 December 2009 at 12:25 pm

          I was terrible my first year.

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      • miss kitty v. says:
        30 December 2009 at 11:24 am

        I have to say, it could have been so much worse. One more reason to love everyone on here: swapping samples instead of always buying them online, buying decants instead of full bottles… all things that kept me from completely maxing out the credit card. (Although I’m not going to lie, it’s close.)

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        • Julia says:
          30 December 2009 at 2:03 pm

          I am finally learning that with some fragrances, 10 or 15ml. is really all I need. Sometimes more that I need. If only I didn’t love full bottles so much…. And it isn’t like I can even display them or anything. I carefully keep all my perfumes at a controlled temperature and out of the light on the top shelf of the armoire I keep my clothes in. My walk-in closet is full of yarn.

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  26. lovethescents says:
    29 December 2009 at 3:29 pm

    Oh how fun! Now I’m sure I’m repeating some already but my favorites for 2009 are
    Penhaligon’s Amaranthine (did a complete turnaround and love it now! have you tried it yet, Robin?);
    Natori edp by Natori;
    Lush Vanillary;
    Prada l’Eau Ambree;
    Hermes Vanille Galante;
    Jo Malone’s Vanilla & Anise;
    the Lilly Pulitzer range….
    MAC Naked Honey

    I’m sure I’m forgetting some…

    My biggest disappointment:
    by Kilian’s Back to Black
    l’Artisan’s Al Oudh
    Not discovering more cheap thrills 🙂

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    • CynthiaW says:
      29 December 2009 at 6:31 pm

      Aaah… how could I have forgotten Natori? It and 31RC are my two fall/winter “go to” scents – as in what I reach for more often than not when I can figure out what to wear and I have to run out the door.

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      • ami says:
        30 December 2009 at 1:19 pm

        absolutely agree. whenever the hesitation takes more than 15 seconds on what to wear, Natori is always there to help me

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 6:52 pm

      I have tried Amarantine, but not as many times as I eventually will — so still haven’t decided what I think. It arrived just when I got really busy w/ holiday things. And have not tried Natori yet at all — Angie reviewed it so I worked on other scents. Bad me!

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    • Filomena says:
      30 December 2009 at 11:25 am

      I was also disappointed in L’Artisan’s Al Ouhd. Too bad because the bottle is beautiful.

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  27. Gilty says:
    29 December 2009 at 3:56 pm

    My top picks from the 2009 releases are CdG Daphne, Mandragore Pourpre, Futur, Une Rose Chypree, Manoumalia, and Epic Woman. I’m anxiously awaiting samples of Amaranthine and Lumiere Noire PF and still need to try OJ Tiare, the Cartiers, the VC&As, Eau Divine, Wazamba, By Kilian Pure Oud…and I’m feeling the need to re-try Mythique.

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 6:53 pm

      A nice list! And I need to re-try Mythique too.

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      • Filomena says:
        30 December 2009 at 11:22 am

        I went through two samples re-trying Mythique. I liked it but thought it was too quiet. Finally one day I just decided to order it–and I am so glad I did. It is so much more beautiful (and lasting) when sprayed.

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  28. Dzingnut says:
    29 December 2009 at 3:57 pm

    Robin, is it time yet for our FY09 4th quarter “The Damage So Far” yet? Can’t wait to read what others have purchased!

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 6:53 pm

      Early next week, possibly Tuesday!

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      • SmokeyToes says:
        29 December 2009 at 8:51 pm

        And I’m revving up my excel spreadsheet as we speak! I was so good, until October 1st!

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        • Robin says:
          30 December 2009 at 9:34 am

          I was very good this quarter, but now I feel some spending coming on!

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          • Dzingnut says:
            30 December 2009 at 10:21 am

            I know the feeling … last night I was thumbing through my already battered and Diet Coke spattered paperback copy of The Guide and wondering “do I feel vetiver-y? Incense-y? Barnyard-y?”. And if I wait til this weekend, it will “accrue” to Q1 of FY10, and $100 or less is the new free …

          • mals86 says:
            30 December 2009 at 12:31 pm

            Ha, Dzing! My copy’s pretty battered too – I’ve finally stopped using it as a “ooh, gotta try that!” guide, having been bitten very badly by all those Lauders that got slobbered over. (And I STILL haven’t forgiven them for Insolence edp. The only thing that stopped me taking a machete to the book was that I swapped for the sample instead of buying it.)

            Bring on Q1 of 2010, I say! I need – oops, want – more samples! And a decant of Carnal Flower! (I did finally stop buying random vintagey things on ebay – but those Lancome La Collection sets are singing a siren aria in my ear…)

  29. flittersniffer says:
    29 December 2009 at 4:13 pm

    For me the standouts were spookily similar to Lovethescents, namely Amaranthine, Vanille Galante, Prada L’Eau Ambree, MAC Naked Honey, Miller Harris Fleurs de Bois and Jo Malone Vanilla & Anise. Also loved White Suede – the Tom Ford one that doesn’t have musk in the title. : – )

    I liked the two Van Cleefs I have tried so far – Bois D’Hiris and Muguet Blanc – and may well fall harder for that range on further trials. Am eagerly awaiting a sample of OJ Tiare when they get more stock in, as I feel that one may also be my thing. Very curious also about the new Maison Kurkdjian scents.

    I quite liked Idylle and Helena Rubinstein Wanted, but disliked CDG Daphne and Armani Idole and loathed Prada Infusion d’Oranger and the execrable and similar Boss Orange. Essence by Narciso Rodriguez also disappointed on account of its extreme soapiness, Parisienne for being like disgruntled purple talc, while A Scent was like a cheaper, flatter version of Fleurs de Bois.

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 7:42 pm

      “Disgruntled purple talc” cracked me up!

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  30. mals86 says:
    29 December 2009 at 4:14 pm

    2009 was my first full year of being a perfume-head. I’d done some minor research up to December of last year, but twelve months ago I owned only mall and drugstore frags (one BBW, one nearly-empty VS, and a Coty cologne).

    Now… oh, gosh, now… I may have spent a bunch of money, but I feel rich. I’ve met many classic scents, several niche ones, and a few mainstream fragrances, and made friends with some of them. I’ve made friends with some other terrific perfume-heads, including you lovely Enablers (you know who you are!), and started writing again after a years-long hiatus.

    And it all started here. Thanks to everyone who contributes here, in any fashion, and particular thanks to the reviewers. Robin receives the Beyond the Call of Duty Award for staying on top of the big picture. Thanks thanks thanks.

    Mushy stuff over, I promise. Scents released in ’09 that I liked enough to purchase decants of: MFK Lumiere Noire pf, Amaranthine. (Also bought a bit of Havana Vanille but haven’t actually sniffed it yet.) Bought a full bottle of SSS Tabac Aurea. New scents that I liked but did not buy: Tauer Une Rose Chypree, Laura Mercier Minuit Enchante, Goutal Matin d’Orage, Natori, and Lutens Nuit de Cellophane.

    I can’t compare ’09 to previous years, due to my non-experience :), but I’ve had a blast.

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 9:08 pm

      The nicest part of all that, IMHO, is that you started writing again…I think that’s wonderful. And it reminded me I’ve been meaning to add you to my blogroll and I just never get over there and edit. Done now.

      And a belated congrats for finishing NaNoWriMo, I’m always meaning to do it and never do, for all the usual bad reasons (no time, no energy).

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      • Rappleyea says:
        30 December 2009 at 1:54 pm

        Seconding the writing. I love her blog!

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        • Rappleyea says:
          30 December 2009 at 1:54 pm

          Well, sorry. I should have said “your” blog, Mals.

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    • flittersniffer says:
      30 December 2009 at 11:28 am

      I say, Mals, how did you manage to make your screen name clickable and link it to your blog? Mine just seems to sit in the profile information, hypo- rather than hyperlinking!

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      • Robin says:
        30 December 2009 at 12:26 pm

        Glad you figured it out 🙂

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      • mals86 says:
        30 December 2009 at 12:32 pm

        I think Robin did it for me! 🙂 Hmm, need to come visit your blog .(is it in German?)

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        • mals86 says:
          30 December 2009 at 12:36 pm

          Sorry, I’m nuts… where did I come up with German?

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          • flittersniffer says:
            31 December 2009 at 8:44 am

            Hi Mals
            I didn’t figure it out actually – maybe it becomes clickable a little while after you enter your blog address – or maybe an administrative fairy kindly intervened! My blog is not in German, as I am a native Brit, though that of mybeautyblog.de is! I do visit Germany quite a bit for work though – or did before the recession… : – )

  31. SmokeyToes says:
    29 December 2009 at 4:17 pm

    Perfumes I loved in 2009: Bvlgari Eau de Parfum II (endless wrist-sniffing) Guerlain Les Secrets de Sophie, (liked, but not at that price), Hermes Eau Pamplemousse Rose & Eau Gentiane Blanche (added both to my collection), Jo Malone Vanilla & Anise (love but I have similar scents), L’Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh & Havana Vanille, Laura Mercier Minuit Enchante, Prada L’Eau Ambree (adore, might purchase), Robert Piguet Futur (I love all Piguet’s scents-might add to the collection if I can find at a discount), Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles (endless wrist sniffing).

    Perfumes I wanted to like, but just didn’t make it. Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte-wanted to love, but absolutely no staying power. Halston-Liked but not enough personality, I have the original Halston Couture and love it. Issey Miyake A Scent By Issey Miyake -wanted to like, but could tell that it was just infatuation.

    Still on the hunt for Annik Goutal’s Mandragore Pourpre, been looking for months, no luck finding it.

    I loved a few candles, but I have a habit of setting off the fire alarm in my house, I’m giving up candles. I’m sure my cats and hubby will appreciate it.

    In 2009, I had fun sampling new genres, Iris, salty, Amgergris, Violet and found new scents to love such as Hermes Eau de Merveilles. Would like to get this in extrait, very cute bottle.

    2009 was also about discovering oldies but goodies. I fell in love with old favorites in the rose/leather/chypre catagory such as Azuree and Bandit (Santa’s Christmas present). My absolute fave was Sikkim by Lancome. I tried a vintage sample in extrait-and that was all she wrote. It was full-bottle worthy, possible holy-grail. The end drydown reminded me a little bit of vintage Magie Noire. And of course, it was a temporary re-release. Like perfume as in life, I like to go for difficult ones! ☺

    My new year’s request: some of Angela’s vintage perfume karma! Her finds are absolutely drool worthy.

    2009 was a fantastic scent year and I’ve had lots of fun on the board. Thanks Robin and everyone for all the wonderful reviews and fun times.

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 9:18 pm

      Great list of loves! Good luck finding that Sikkim 🙂

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    • Joe says:
      30 December 2009 at 1:29 am

      Hey Smokeytoes: So nice to hear from another lover of Sikkim. I discovered it this year also, thanks to AnnS, but haven’t been so fortunate to try vintage extrait. It really is one of the most amazing fragrances I’ve ever smelled.

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      • SmokeyToes says:
        30 December 2009 at 10:30 am

        It totally took me by surprise, very lovely stuff! I love how it morphed thru green/woods and then spice & leather.

        The first drops were total swoon-my mother in law laughed at my constant wrist-sniffing over Christmas!

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        • AnnS says:
          30 December 2009 at 11:44 am

          Oh Smokey… do I have a swap deal for you!!!

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      • AnnS says:
        30 December 2009 at 11:45 am

        And Joe, you brought me to Noir Epices. See how nice this all works out? Happy New Year!

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  32. annemarie says:
    29 December 2009 at 4:37 pm

    I will remember 2009 as the year I discovered 31 Rue Cambon. I can only afford decants, but I don’t think I shall ever be without it now.

    I also discovered (ahem) in my own cupboard two bottles of Chanel No. 19 EDT that I’d forgotten I had. Each has about 15-20mls in them. I wore No. 19 in the 80s but at some point in the 90s, because I loved it so much, bought the EDP and even the parfum. Which I didn’t love – in fact they killed my No. 19 appreciation so much that I abandoned (but didn’t throw out) the EDTs as well. And later, because they took on that nail varnish smell when opened, I assumed they were off.

    They aren’t – both are fine. So I can now float around on Cloud 19 again. I must have learned something from Angela’s ‘cherish and use what you already have’ philosophy.

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    • Gilty says:
      29 December 2009 at 7:26 pm

      How cool. What an excellent find. I “lost” a full bottle of Que Sais-Je in my apartment last year and am very much looking forward to the day I stumble across it….

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      • annemarie says:
        29 December 2009 at 8:14 pm

        Oh golly. Well, at least it must be safely in the dark.

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 9:10 pm

      How wonderful, congrats on your find!

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    • mals86 says:
      30 December 2009 at 9:55 am

      I love No. 19 in vtg edt too – I have a small bottle of the parfum, but it just isn’t the same… it loses the hissy, silvery sparkle I like so much. Glad you found them, and glad you’re enjoying them!

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  33. Suzy Q says:
    29 December 2009 at 5:23 pm

    Hi to all First Year Frag Hags. 2009 is the year I rediscovered a long lost love, perfume, thanks to the purchase of Perfumes the Guide in January and the discovery of Calandre on line. It was my first true love back in the early ’80s. But now I have So Many More loves thanks to LT, TS, NST and TPC! I’ve also learned many new abbreviations! It’s been a great year and I’m so thankful for this on-line community, as my flesh-and-blood friends don’t share the love. Today I am wearing No. 5 Eau Premiere thanks to someone’s mention here on NST. I love it. Happy New Year to everyone.

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    • Suzy Q says:
      29 December 2009 at 6:20 pm

      I kinda got off the subject. The truth is I didn’t sniff any of the Best Of’s mentioned: I’ve been too busy catching up (and enjoying every minute of it).

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 9:19 pm

      How nice, and you smell great!

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  34. Rappleyea says:
    29 December 2009 at 5:49 pm

    Considering that I feel like I’ve been on a huge sampling spree all year, I’m appalled to read these lists and find that I’ve only sniffed a few of them. But all of the sampling has only made me appreciate the beauty, complexity and depth of the classics all the more. Biggest disappointment of 2009: Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus – gone in 60 seconds. Best new release that I did try: Wazamba. Best classic discovered in 2009: Chanel Cuir de Russie (thank you to the Empress of Enabling). And most original line in this post: “Clive Christian award for aspirational pricing”.
    Hugs to all,
    Donna

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 9:22 pm

      Don’t worry, I’m seeing tons of things in the comments that I never tried…including that Mitsouko flanker!

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  35. sunsetsong says:
    29 December 2009 at 7:23 pm

    Hi there from an infrequent contributor/avid reader. My perfume collection has blossomed over the last 18 months, and I have loved the journey. By happy accident (as the tsunami reference is so accurate) I have found my perfect fragrances and thanks to you all for guiding me to Apres L’Ondee, Azuree and OJ Osmanthus, and helping me to rediscover Eau D’Hadrien, Nahema and Eau Sauvage. The rest of the collection is too large to list but fragrance has its day or season – except for Black Orchid (big pile of rotting fruit) or Le Maroc pour elle (head shop) which just don’t work for me.
    Thanks to all you contributors and the NST writers for a great blog.

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    • Robin says:
      29 December 2009 at 10:02 pm

      LOL at “big pile of rotting fruit”! Glad you found so many other things that work better for you.

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  36. Haunani says:
    29 December 2009 at 8:05 pm

    2009 fragrances that won my heart:
    Hermes Vanille Galante
    Neil Morris Mariner
    Parfumerie Generale Felanilla
    Penhaligons Amaranthine
    L’Artisan Havana Vanille
    Stephanie de Saint-Aignan Royal Palm

    2009 fragrances I still want to try:
    Ineke Field Notes from Paris
    Parfum d’Empire Wazamba
    Prada L’Eau Ambree
    Sonoma Scent Studio Tabac Aurea
    Ormonde Jayne Tiare
    Tauer Un Rose Chypree
    Goutal Mandragore Pourpre

    This was my second year of full-tilt fragrance frenzy, and I thank NST for helping me stay focused. 🙂

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    • boojum says:
      30 December 2009 at 8:23 am

      Wow, we really *do* need to start swapping samples, lol! I only missed 1 of the ones you want to try, and only tried 2 of the ones you love. 😀 At the least, I have a split of HV on the way, so can happily pass on my sample of that one. I’ll drop you a line later…

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      • Haunani says:
        30 December 2009 at 12:35 pm

        Sounds like a good plan!

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2009 at 9:35 am

      I did not try the Royal Palm…guess you loved it?

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      • Haunani says:
        30 December 2009 at 1:01 pm

        I sent for a sample, because it sounded like my kind of thing, and I really like several by Saint-Aignan. I’m not at home this week, or I’d pull it out and report on it. My tasting notes simply say, “Love this! Light dreamy spicy wood”, and I gave it 4.5 stars. The listed notes (from Luckyscent) are grapefruit, jasmine, iris, cardamom, cinnamon, pink pepper, black pepper, clove, vetiver, cedar wood, leather and incense. It was fresh (but not the ozone-fresh that some of you hate), and reminded me a little of my beloved L’Eau de Jatamansi. I think it had more sweetness, though. I remember thinking of sugar and Chergui for some reason.

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        • Robin says:
          30 December 2009 at 1:27 pm

          Oh, that does sound very tempting. Added it to my list of things to try to get my hands on.

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          • Helle says:
            30 December 2009 at 3:54 pm

            Do try it! It’s kind of “invigorating”, fresh like a dark green ocean but without “sea” notes. Maybe a hint of salt. I think it’s a LE so might not be around for long. Thanks for a great summery of the year!!

          • Robin says:
            30 December 2009 at 8:30 pm

            Thanks Helle!

        • Helle says:
          30 December 2009 at 3:49 pm

          Yes, Royal Palm!! I loved it too, and used up my sample in just a few days. I was going to get it but the store never got the shipment, but you reminded me to go back and check again. As you say it’s kind of fresh, but warm and cozy at the same time. I get quite a lot of vetiver, and love it. I think it’s wearable all year round. Do you have any other favourites from S. de St Aignan? I do need to try L’eau de Jatamansi!

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  37. Celestia says:
    29 December 2009 at 9:23 pm

    As the year ends, it’s time to be thankful, so at the risk of sounding repetitive, I am grateful for the wonderful writers, both the commenters and the regular contributors. The intelligence, wit, and class add so much to my perfumed life. This is, unarguably, the best blogsite for perfumistas. Thanks, Robin, for maintaining the integrity of the site. Happy New Year to all!

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2009 at 9:36 am

      That’s sweet, thanks!

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  38. guerlaingirl says:
    29 December 2009 at 10:28 pm

    I am so grateful to Robin, Angela, Erin, Jessica & Kevin for your evocative writing & hosting such a warm on-line community. I have learned so much & laughed a great deal. And, of course, the lemmings…

    My favorite fragrant moment of 2009 was learning that Guerlain was re-releasing Spiritueuse Double Vanille. Oh yes, I’m sniffing my boozy vanilla scented wrist right now.

    Looking forward to a fabulously scented 2010 with you all!

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2009 at 9:36 am

      Now if only they were lowering the price, LOL!

      And thanks.

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      • guerlaingirl says:
        30 December 2009 at 9:51 pm

        Woo! I know! I was part of a split. But, I am still circling. Like a shark. I desire more. An “HG” for sure.

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  39. lilydale aka Natalie says:
    29 December 2009 at 10:52 pm

    Yup, NST is definitely tops on the best of the best of the best list. The terrific writing, the camaraderie, the sheer graciousness of all involved… thank you!

    As for this year’s perfumes, I liked Cartier XIIIeme Heure and Kilian Pure Oud — although the prices are waaay too rich for my blood — as well as Une Rose Chypree; Kurkdjian’s Cologne pour le Soir is really growing on me too. My disappointments included Amaranthine, Havana Vanille, and Wazamba, but I’m glad to have smelled them, even that evil witches’ brew Wazamba… I was also disappointed by the Kenzo UFO scent; if it had been just a teensy bit more interesting I just might have bought that freaking fantastic bottle!

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2009 at 9:40 am

      I liked the Kenzo UFO scent, but agree that it wasn’t nearly as interesting as the bottle. Just as well for my sake.

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    • Rappleyea says:
      30 December 2009 at 2:12 pm

      Natalie: I love reading what people *didn’t* like as much or more than what they did. Your calling Wazamba “witch’s brew” makes me wonder if I’d also like the other scents you didn’t as I loved Wazamba!

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      • lilydale aka Natalie says:
        30 December 2009 at 10:14 pm

        Evil scent twin, perhaps?! Wazamba is very different from the others, though — I found Havana Vanille sort of “meh,” and Amaranthine dried down to smell like 20 other scents I’ve tried, but Wazamba was anything but “meh.” I tend to like powerful, “difficult” perfumes, but this one had me running for the hills…

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  40. Tama says:
    29 December 2009 at 11:02 pm

    In total agreement with Celestia! I read this blog every day – even after starting to work, and abandoning a few other daily blogs, this one cannot be abandoned. I am late to the party most of the time now, since I don’t get to comment until nighttime, but that’s okay. I love you all!

    I think most of my cash this year went to stuff being discontinued or has been out for a while, except for the Mac Honeys, some Une Rose Chypree, Pulitzer Beachy, and that lovely Felix Navidad. But I did really like CdG Daphne and Artek, Back to Black, Fat Electrician, and I’m sure a few others I’m missing.

    I kind of learned not to get too excited about perfume this year. Sooo bouncy about the Prada Fleur d’Oranger – yak! Ptui!
    Drooling over Havana Vanille – meh. It’s nice, but not what I wanted it to be at all. I am worried the Al Oudh will be the same, so not bouncing about that one. I would rather be pleasantly surprised, like I was with Back to Black. I have really wanted to try Mandragore Pourpre (or however you spell it – too lazy to look) and nobody has it! Rumor has it that AG is re-thinking distribution or some damn thing.

    Anyway, thank you for my first full year (plus some of last year) of enabling my perfume addiction.

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    • annemarie says:
      29 December 2009 at 11:19 pm

      I’m faintly surprised to see so many people say they find Mandragore P. hard to find. Is this just in North America? I’ve seen it in Sydney a few times this year, but then Australia might be benefiting from distribution to Asia. For what it’s worth, which is not much really, I found MP nothing special. Nice bottle tho’.

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      • boojum says:
        30 December 2009 at 8:25 am

        I haven’t seen it yet either…finally gave in an ordered a sample from TPC along w/some others. I don’t find it drastically different from the original, but need to give it a few more tries to decide which I like better. I only have a mini of the original, so could certainly do with more.

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        • Gilty says:
          30 December 2009 at 9:52 am

          Bergdorf’s has it. Maybe it’s a exclusive there for awhile…?

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          • Robin says:
            30 December 2009 at 10:01 am

            I think that’s the only place I’ve seen it in the US too.

      • Julia says:
        30 December 2009 at 3:21 pm

        Me, too. It is one of the AG’s that my Saks always has in stock.

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2009 at 11:21 am

      Thanks Tama!

      We wholeheartedly agree on the Prada. Ptui is right.

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    • odonata9 says:
      30 December 2009 at 6:44 pm

      Totally agree on the Havana Vanille – I was dying to get some and thought it would be the perfect thing for me. It’s nice, but doesn’t get very boozy on me – just powdery. And I hate powder. But it does seem to have a lot of fans!

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  41. jonr951 says:
    30 December 2009 at 2:14 am

    Ive really started to luv JV Artisan. It was one of this yrs best but I gave into Allure Blanche over it. My favs this yr probably have to be Prada Ambree, L’Imperatrice, ASBIM, Grey Vetiver, Play Intense & Eau Mega. ASBIM is nxt on my list!! Ive really found myself absolutely obsessed w/ it!! Its so addictive!! Im a little embarassed to say CH carolina herrera was nice too. Right on w/ the celebs, Halle & Queen bein the best. I did like Fancy Love & Circus. The worst scent this yr & possibly ever has to be the dreadful Couture Couture! Horrifying! Heres hoping for an even better yr in 2010. I want a new Tom Ford & Marc Jacobs.

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2009 at 11:23 am

      Ok, I”m usually pretty good at figuring out acronyms, but ASBIM??

      I tried Fancy Love, but haven’t yet managed to get my hands on Circus Fantasy or My Glow. Always behind!

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      • jonr951 says:
        30 December 2009 at 3:08 pm

        A Scent By Issey Miyake. : )

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        • Robin says:
          30 December 2009 at 8:30 pm

          Of course! And that’s a fragrance name that screams out for an acronym.

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  42. debbie says:
    30 December 2009 at 4:58 am

    I dont have a fav new release for 2009- just happy to have discovered TPC, this year, and can now smell all the great niche perfumes that i have been missing out on! Did fall in lust with Piquet Bandit, Fracas, and Visa (in winter) and lately CdG Red Carnation, Lesley Blogget Perfume Diaries and SL Datura Noir and Iris Silver Mist.
    Hope you all have a great 2010! Keep all the perfume news coming!!! Thanks

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2009 at 11:23 am

      TPC is a wonderful resource.

      And go Iris Silver Mist, yay!

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  43. RusticDove says:
    30 December 2009 at 9:34 am

    This past year most of the fragrances I tried have been around a while, but were new to me. Of the newly released scents, my favorites are AT’s Une Rose Chypre and CdG’s Daphne. Of the mainstream releases, I suppose it would be EL’s PC Jasmine White Moss [but I like Tuberose Gardenia much better. [Or for that matter, I prefer the ancient old school Azuree to both.] This has been a great year of discovery for me and I’ve had many hours of enjoyment and education thanks to NST. I’m excited to to see what the new year brings and I’m grateful for the affinity and good vibes we share here. Happy New Year to my fragrant chums! XOXO

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2009 at 12:21 pm

      Curious though — have you smelled Azuree lately? Because I’d have to assume it’s been IFRA-ed now, but haven’t heard anyone say.

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      • RusticDove says:
        30 December 2009 at 6:13 pm

        Yes, I have a new bottle and I love it. I haven’t smelled the vintage in ages – and I don’t think I want to since it would most likely ruin my enjoyment of the current formulation! 😉

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        • Robin says:
          30 December 2009 at 8:31 pm

          Yeah, good point.

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      • SmokeyToes says:
        31 December 2009 at 1:13 am

        Hi Robin
        I have a new bottle of Azuree-it smells a little sweeter and doesn’t have the green edge it used to have on me. I still love it though.

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        • Robin says:
          31 December 2009 at 9:31 am

          Thanks! Glad to hear it’s not destroyed.

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  44. OperaFan says:
    30 December 2009 at 10:27 am

    Thanks to NST and other fabulous fragrance blogs, 2009 has been a wild roller coaster ride of experiencing the new and becoming reacquainted with the olds (some languishing in my perfume cabinet for 10+ years). I won’t mention specific scents since I don’t think I have them properly organized in my mind, but I do want to mention the wonderful perfume houses whose scented doors I feel privileged to have entered:
    Andy Tauer
    Amouage
    Sonoma Scent Studio
    Serge Lutens
    Rosines
    Parfums de Nicolai
    Delrae
    (Note: Not all with scents I love – but minimally educational up to potential HGs)
    Thanks everyone!

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    • OperaFan says:
      30 December 2009 at 10:28 am

      Shame on me for not mentioning: Montale!!!

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2009 at 12:22 pm

      Nice list! Hope it can compete with the vintage stuff in your closet 🙂

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  45. ami says:
    30 December 2009 at 1:56 pm

    Robin for President!

    thank you so much for having awful lot of fun with all of you guys!
    this is my first year in perfume, so everything was completely new for me but my favourite from the 2009 harvest is Andy’s Une Rose Chypree. also his advent calendar was absolute fun, and i was so lucky to win a teaser set, it felt like winning the lottery 🙂
    but i’m also greatful for Iris Silver Mist, Ormonde Woman, 28 La Pausa and 31 Rue Cambone. and today has arrived my tiny decant of Diorissimo vintage (I would follow you anywhere Robin 🙂 ) so spring has come….

    hugs to all of you

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2009 at 4:44 pm

      Oh, don’t wish that on me, LOL!

      Lucky you winning at Tauer perfumes, his contests are so wonderful. And congrats on your vintage Diorissimo, do you love it?

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      • ami says:
        1 January 2010 at 11:46 am

        Robin, it is absolutely beautiful!!!

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        • Robin says:
          1 January 2010 at 12:48 pm

          Good 🙂

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  46. eminere says:
    30 December 2009 at 9:24 pm

    I have fiiiiiinally gotten my hands on some long-overdue Terre d’Hermes – it is so divine! Now for the Parfum next…

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    • Robin says:
      31 December 2009 at 9:30 am

      Good! I’m tempted to buy the parfum myself…

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  47. perfumelaydee says:
    30 December 2009 at 9:54 pm

    Thanks Robin, Angela, Jessica, Kevin and others who write so descriptive and wonderfully on this my absolute one and only perfume blog. Many all the commenters and writers of this blog have a Happy New Year!!!

    2009 favorite fragrance purchase was Eau de gentiane blanche.

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    • Robin says:
      31 December 2009 at 9:31 am

      Thanks so much!

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  48. odonata9 says:
    31 December 2009 at 2:03 am

    Great list – there are some things mentioned that I don’t recall reading the review for, so I need to click on some of those! I think I discovered this blog (how I don’t even know, but I’m happy I did!) last year, this year was the first I got serious about perfume. Just took part in my first split and first swap! This blog is one of my favorites – I love checking in every day (and sometimes several times a day!). The writing is great and all the commenters are helpful and funny. Thank you for creating such a wonderful place on the internet!

    As for 2009 releases, I haven’t really tried too many since I’m still catching up. MAC Naked Honey has to be my favorite. L’Artisan Havana Vanille was nice but just didn’t do it for me.

    Happy New Year to everyone!

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    • odonata9 says:
      31 December 2009 at 2:15 am

      How could I forget my Ineke sample pack? I also loved Field Notes from Paris. I see a full bottle of that in my future, and maybe Balmy Days and Sundays too!

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      • Robin says:
        31 December 2009 at 9:32 am

        Field Notes is a great scent, easily my favorite from Ineke. Havana Vanille is getting lots of raves but also lots of mehs…so not exactly a love it or hate it, but a love it or leave it maybe?

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  49. Yazzers says:
    31 December 2009 at 5:59 am

    Not too many people know of my favorite scent, but I guess it makes it that much more special. Sure, it’s typical of a L’Bel Paris evangelist like me, but I think L’Bel’s Delyr is classic. It’s seductive, so it makes for a great evening fragrance…even with all the new fragrances out there I still cannot put this scent down!

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    • Robin says:
      31 December 2009 at 9:34 am

      Never heard of it!

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  50. www.mybeautyblog.de says:
    1 January 2010 at 10:42 am

    First of all, A HAPPY NEW YEAR! to you all and many thanks for the inspiring blogging of you.
    Thanks to all the readers that comment, keep up!

    This year I did not buy much. One scent won me entirely: Kelly Caleche EdT. I can wear it always and I got not bored of it.
    From the new releases there has been only one that impressed me: Amaranthine.
    Vanille Galante IS a really impressing one, too, beacuse it was not at all what I expected, but I did not fall in love with it (fortunately while looking at the price tag).

    2009 was a rather poor perfume year for me, but I met wonderful people as flittersniffer through it and this counts to me more.

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    • Robin says:
      1 January 2010 at 12:48 pm

      Wow, only one release impressed you all the year?!? You’re even pickier than I am 🙂

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  51. Morgan says:
    8 January 2010 at 5:32 pm

    So I guess I really am the only person in the world who loathes that Marc Jacobs Lola bottle, eh? I keep thinking they couldn’t have made it uglier if they’d tried! But that’s just me; I’ve never been that fond of either “girly” or “retro”.

    Side complaint: have you seen the size of the Lola boxes to accommodate all that frippery on top?? They’re HUGE! Good luck storing that puppy in a drawer, especially if (like me) your drawer space is already all taken up by perfume! 😀

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    • Robin says:
      8 January 2010 at 9:42 pm

      Oh, I know you’re not…there were many dissenters when we first announced it.

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  52. Morgan says:
    8 January 2010 at 5:35 pm

    (Oh but aside from my Lola rantings, I love these lists, and will be looking for all of the scents mentioned! Though I was pretty amazed not to see Fille en Aiguilles mentioned as a favorite anywhere in the main post. I was thoroughly taken by that one on a trip to San Francisco and thought for sure it would be in here.)

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    • Robin says:
      8 January 2010 at 9:42 pm

      Glad you liked the list! I liked FeA but didn’t love it.

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