Prada's new Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger is the first in a projected yearly series of limited edition “Ephemeral Infusion” fragrances drawing on fragrance notes from the harder-to-find (and more expensive) Prada Exclusive scents. According to Women's Wear Daily, the Ephemeral Infusion fragrances are designed to "evoke a light memory of the original ingredient".*
I adore the Prada fragrance line, most or all of which (including this new one) was developed by perfumer Daniela Andrier. I adore Prada Infusion d’Iris, which along with Prada No. 4 Fleur d’Oranger was listed as a progenitor of Infusion de Fleur d'Oranger. Another iris + orange blossom combo, Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile Eau de Toilette, is one of my favorite spring/summer fragrances. So while I didn't tempt fate by assuming I'd adore Infusion de Fleur d'Oranger, I was pretty sure I'd at least like it.
Nope. I do like it for about 15 seconds: the opening is lively and spring-like, and does smell very much like Infusion d'Iris with a goodly layer of sparkling orange blossom on top (the notes: neroli, orange blossom, tuberose, jasmine and serendoline, whatever that might be). After that, everything goes wrong. The sparkle vanishes, and it turns soapy — I don't always mind soapy, but this is very soapy — and flat. I would not say that it smells bad, in fact, it's arguably a pleasant scent, but it reminds me of laundry flakes + orange baby aspirin flavor + musk in a way that is annoying when it's on your skin and following you around all day, and as is the case with anything I don't love, it lasts hours upon hours, and the sillage seems monstrous (it probably isn't; still, it does seem stronger to me than Infusion d'Iris).
Reviews around the internets have been mixed so far, and I have a feeling many people are going to love Infusion de Fleur d'Oranger. As always, it's worth a shot if you are so inclined, and if you've already tried it and loved it, do comment!
Prada Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger is available in 50, 100 and 200 ml Eau de Parfum and in matching body products. It will reportedly be available for 4 months.
* via Women's Wear Daily, 1/23/2009.