The smart thing to do after I received a sample of Chanel's new Cristalle Eau Verte would have been to have worn it for a few days on its own, and that was my plan. I haven't got that much will power apparently: within 5 minutes of spraying it on, I'd put the original 1974 Cristalle Eau de Toilette on my other hand, and pretty soon I'd put a dab of the 1993 Cristalle Eau de Parfum farther up my arm, and was busy comparing the three.
The new Cristalle Eau Verte, by Chanel perfumer Jacques Polge, promised to retain the “original honeysuckle accord” of Cristalle and to add magnolia (other notes: lemon, bergamot, neroli, jasmine, and abstract white flowers). There wasn't any reason to think it would have much to do with the earlier versions, and of course it doesn't. I don't know the sales figures for the 1974 Cristalle (a long-time favorite of mine) vs. the 1993 Eau de Parfum, but I would guess the Eau de Parfum is the bigger seller of the two, and that the original Eau de Toilette is no longer viable in the regulatory sense anyway, what with oakmoss and citrus being limited.1
Considered on its own merits, Chanel Eau Verte is quite nice. It starts green and fresh and crisp, in the way that perfumes are green and fresh and crisp lately — think Versace Versense or Bvlgari Omnia Green Jade; this is not the green and fresh and crisp of Cristalle Eau de Toilette. I was interested to read somewhere2 that Cristalle Eau Verte smelled more natural than Cristalle, because my reaction, once I'd smelled it, was the opposite: it's got that that "fresh breeze" and "fresh water" thing in the top notes that smells entirely synthetic to me, and that verges, most unfortunately, on the smell of dryer sheets or air freshener, whereas the original Cristalle still smells to me like things you can find in nature: citrus, herbs, moss, flowers. The green citrus opening of Eau Verte reminds me of 7Up and/or Fresca long after the bubbles have all evaporated — not a bad thing, necessarily, but not at all the same. It's lively, but it doesn't sparkle.
The freshness lasts well into the heart, which is more feminine, less crisp. Initially, magnolia seemed an odd choice for Cristalle, but it works beautifully with the lingering greenery — it's soft and slightly creamy, and you'll catch traces of the original floral notes from Cristalle. The base is pale, summer-y and entirely un-chypre-ish.
If you were a fan of Cristalle Eau de Toilette, or even the Eau de Parfum, don't bother trying the Eau Verte with that in mind. It's nicely done, but it isn't Cristalle and there's no point, I suppose, in crying over spilled milk. If you didn't like Cristalle — and not everyone did: "rotting swamp" was only one of several negative comments when I reviewed it — rest assured that this is an entirely modern perfume, clean and shower fresh, with no trace of moss (the likely culprit for "rotting swamp"), and there's no reason at all to think you won't like it. If you've never tried either of the first two variations on Cristalle, for heaven's sakes, don't do it now: ignorance is bliss (although for all I know, the originals have already been reformulated). As for me, I like it fine, and if I had a bottle I'd wear it quite happily. It's pretty, it's wearable, and as befits a Chanel, it smells classier than most of the "fresh and green" competition on the perfume counters at the moment. But wearing it next to Cristalle Eau de Toilette mostly served to remind me how much I adore Cristalle Eau de Toilette, and nice as it is, Cristalle Eau Verte isn't likely to replace it in my affections.
Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte is available in 100 ml Eau de Toilette Concentrée; it does not launch in the US until this summer, but can be purchased overseas now. The lasting power is pretty good — not entirely fabulous, but a far sight better than that of Cristalle Eau de Toilette.
1. You can skim through the articles under the IFRA tag if you're not familiar with recent regulatory issues.
2. As usual, I've entirely forgotten where. A blog, or maybe MakeupAlley? If I've stolen your words, do comment and take credit.
Finally received my bottle yesterday. It’s respectable, it’s as classy as any Chanel can be, but it is definitely not Cristalle.
I like it, but I am not crazy about it. It is perfectly appropriate for the office or other professional gatherings.
Would someone please release Escale a Pondichery in the US, or at least bring the two new Hermes fragrances to my local Nordstrom…I am moving on!
Hugs!
R, I’m so sorry you bought a bottle & don’t love it. I would say “I like it but I am not crazy about it” might about sum up my feelings, although I’d also say that’s it’s in many ways much better than I expected…as flankers go, it’s pretty darned good, you know? Since usually they’re huge disappointments, and frankly, w/o the oakmoss & tons of lemon, there’s only so much they can do with “Cristalle”.
It’s all your fault. I learned to love Cristalle EDT right at the point they’d probably be forced to change the formula. And you’re right, surely the EDP is more popular? This new one I can live without; it’ll probably sell like hotcakes.
Do I have “sucker” written all over me? I even purchased this from Canada!
I don’t see why it wouldn’t sell like hotcakes, it’s darned nice. If the top notes were a wee bit less “fake fresh”, I’d probably love it.
I’ll give my Nordie SA a call to see if they have any advance samples.
I adore the original edt, have worn it for years. Given the review I’ll try it but won’t get my hopes up.
I think the release date for the US was July, which means hopefully it will be around in June?
Thank you for the review, Robin. I only loved the drydown of Cristalle EdT, and that mostly because it reminded me of my mother’s best friend (my “honorary aunt”). I don’t imagine CEV is even close. Another lemming averted.
This one is different enough that you might like it anyway…
I should qualify my comments by admiting that I did not have a previous relationship with Cristalle and am such a newbie I barely know my oakmoss from my ambergris…;-)
I absolutely loved the opening of CEV after spritizing it at my local fragrance counter. It was a cold and rainy day when I tried it and it felt like the breath of fresh air I was yearning for. However, a few trials later the initial infatuation wore off and I paid closer attention to the drydown I realized that, for me, it was just , well, ho-hum.
Ah well, money saved, right?
Hey Robin –
You mentioned Eau Verte having a “7Up and/or Fresca long after the bubbles have all evaporated” smell to it – I was wondering if it smelled similar to Soda from CdG’s Synthetic Series (assuming you have smelled Soda…..). Soda has that same fresh, green and synthetic smell that you mentioned Eau Verte having. Just wondering your take on this.
Marko
I have smelled Soda, but it’s been awhile. I thought I remembered Soda as being very effervescent in the top notes…much closer to “sparkling” than this — but I should pull out my sample because my memory is not always so good 😉
I love Eau Verte and it looks like I’m in the minority, here.
It does seem so much fresher and more contemporary to me and perhaps that is solely because it lacks oakmoss. I was never a big fan of original Cristalle edt or edp so I bet I’m the demographic Chanel was aiming for.
I think I never quite “understood” Cristalle because something that is meant to be fresh, summery and citrusy just doesn’t seem right paired with oakmoss. And, I’m guessing, it’s exactly this pairing that makes it’s devotees love it so much.
I suppose it is true that anything with substantial oakmoss smells “old fashioned” now. So I think you’re right, it’s now a love it or hate it scent.
Oakmoss is one of my favorite smells in the world, which is too bad for me since it’s going to be gone.
I’m curious, R, how you feel about some of the moss “soliflores” put out by independent perfumers, if you’ve tried them? My general feeling about layering is that it’s more trouble than it’s worth — and I’m not even sure any of these “moss” scents use natural oakmoss — but layering might give certain scents an added depth that is lacking due to reformulations?
I happen to own Ava Luxe Moss (Mousse de Chêne) and enjoy it on its own merits, in addition to having experimented only briefly with layering it under other fragrances.
Joe, I admit I’ve never tried any of them…
What about “Aromatics Elixir”? I liked it very much on my skin but hated the smell on my clothing the next day. I guess there is oakmoss in there. Its also a hate it or love it scent. Way to oldfashioned for me.
Yes, that’s another chypre with oakmoss.
The original Cristalle was the only perfume I wore for years. On me, the hyacinth predominates, so I was hoping that the oakmoss concentration was low enough to sneak through.
IFRA hasn’t noticed that people EAT citrus?
Even though my dog spent my tax refund at the vet (she’s fine now), I’m going to have to stock up.
For all I know there is oakmoss in this new one — I probably wouldn’t even notice if the concentration was low enough.
This review makes me a little sad, R. Somehow your tactful, pragmatic resignation hits harder than the full-on anger I’ve heard elsewhere.
It’s too late for me, with Cristalle, I’m afraid. Tom over on PST pushed me over the edge into ordering a tiny tester of the EDT a few weeks ago. Now I have to decide whether to order more, or just spritz away with the proper embrace of life’s ephemeralities… Thank god I’m really on Oriental girl at heart. Nobody’s banning labdanum yet, are they?
Gosh, I think labdanum is safe so far. But wasn’t there something about opoponax recently? I’m not even sure — I’m doing my best to not give the issue my full attention.
Anyway, this review made me sad too. I ended up putting on Cristalle EdT almost every time I wore the Eau Verte, and kept thinking, jeez, this stuff smells good. Eau Verte is really nice and I probably don’t do it justice, but what a shame. It also made me pull out the update to Perfumes: The Guide, and read the review of Hadrien again: “When you have a fragrance composed entirely of citrus oils and moss extracts, and industry allergen regulations command you to strike out the limonene, citonellal and oakmoss, you’re screwed. The decent thing to do is discontinue, but it’s not easy to axe a big seller”.
My question — is there not a single brand that is willing, even if it is not cost effective, to keep ONE single masterpiece from their back catalog in its original state and just put a warning on the label?? If only as a sort of concession to fans and as a kind of historical statement?
I should also say, however, that I don’t know a single thing about what’s being done with “original” Cristalle, I’m just making assumptions.
This is very nice indeed. During its first two hours, it reminds me so much of Long Island Iced Tea, minus the booze….
Ah, interesting comparison! Haven’t had a Long Island Iced Tea in a very long time, and probably not a good idea now, even for comparison 😉
Well, then, those who blind-bought a bottle can at least look forward to a cocktail or two! :->
Haunani, you’re supposed to smell it not drink it! 🙂
I was just putting the final touch on my own review of this when I saw yours had come up… I’ve pretty much been a sucker for the Polge/Sheldrake tandem’s output, but Cristalle Eau Verte has a jarring lemon top note and no base, which strikes me as, I agree, an attempt to woo the shower-fresh crowd… And I’m with you too on the synthetic smell.
I was never a huge fan of Cristalle (for wearing myself), but I’ve just compared the two and Cristalle, at least, has a backbone.
It is oddly “baseless” — look forward to seeing your review!
All you had to say was “un-chypre-ish” to save my pocketbook any more pain. *whew* Thanks, Robin!
De nada!
I just tried this today… and I agree with your review, although I never liked Cristalle to begin with. I couldn’t imagine how something could be more ‘vert’ than Cristalle… and, to me, Cristalle eau Verte is not. It’s not as green to me as it is citrusy and it really hasn’t much in common with Cristalle.
Funny, this is greener to me, although as I said, fake green & not real green. Between this, Bvlgari Omnia & Versace Versense, wondered if there wasn’t some fancy new fake fresh green molecule making the rounds.
I think you’re right! Cristalle Eau Verte, Versense, L’eau Miss Dior Chérie… there must be some connection. Can’t remember what Omnia Green Jade smells like. It didn’t leave much of an impression.
I also found it more citrussy than green, and less floral than I was hoping for. For magnolia, I had more joy with J’Adore L’Eau to be honest, and this remained just a tad too sharp throughout its development. The new Miss Dior Cherie Eau Verte also has an overly sharp opening, but settles down to something more akin to Versense or Omnia Green Jade, but I found this a wee bit piquant, as I do Escala de Portofino, sadly. I prefer the “original” Cristalle EDT myself, and did the same side by side business as Robin! But I will try it a few more times just in case I am mistaken.
And I have not yet tried the new J’Adore flanker, although I’m not a huge fan of the original. Must get to the mall, as always…
You’ll find the new J’adore flanker eerie similar to the new Miss Dior Chérie flanker, neither of which is particularly interesting… Pfffff….
I’m not a J’Adore fan either, but I found the J’Adore Eau Cologne Florale to be a lot nicer, as well as the J’Adore Absolu.
I reckon if you like Kenzo Eau de Fleur de Magnolia, there’s a fair chance you will like J’Adore L’Eau. It has been nicely citrussed up, and there is a good balance between tart bergamot and buttery magnolia. No languid, heavy, white floral blend as in J’Adore – this feels like a clean sheet from Dior rather than a flanker proper.
I loved the original Cristalle Eau de Toilette. As I recall it didn’t smell like anything else that was available, or maybe I thought it was so great I didn’t look any further. The eau verts sounds nice, and I’ll give it a try, but I still miss the edt.
You know it’s still sold, right?
This had a dreadful synthetic tea smell that kept getting stronger and more annoying as the minutes rolled on. I finally had to scrub it off. Yech.
A scrubber, ack!
Robin, I just ordered a sample of Cristalle edt from The Perfume Court. What am I going to get? I’m not going to get something that isn’t available anymore am I?!
No, it is still sold.
Oh well. I sure miss my old bottle of Cristalle.
You could always get another!
I’m more of a no 19 kind of girl but after the terrible news of EDT discontinuation I may have to get a bottle of EDT befor my department store runs out
The EdT, so far as I know, has not been discontinued.
Thanks for the great review! I was looking forward to trying this–I only recently tried Cristalle EdT and bought a bottle–but now I think I can wait… I’m really not liking the “fresh breeze” thing.
Janice, hope you’ll try it anyway…I’m sure lots of people will love it.
Cristalle is one of my all time favorites. I’ve enjoyed reading the comments about Eau Verte and I will look forward to sampling it when it becomes available. When you have a love affair with a fragrance, a new version has some mighty stiff competition for your affections. I think if there is a fragrance you basically like, but wish for a “little less of this and a little more of that”, there’s a better chance you’ll like a new version. I agree with flittersniffer’s comment about Escala de Portofino-too much lime in the cocktail there for sure!
It is true for me — that it has stiff competition. Still, I hate to keep emphasizing the negative — I did like Eau Verte. Just didn’t adore it.
I’m a longtime fan of Cristalle EDT, and also love Eau Verte. I find it fresh and not overpowering. I’ve always been drawn to citrussy fragrances (e.g. Eau de Rochas), but have found they lack staying power. This one lingers nicely. I won’t be giving up the old Cristalle, but it’s a nice addition to my perfume wardrobe.
We may all be giving up Cristalle though…I assume it will be seriously reformulated.
Give me rotting swamp then! I love the EDT. I think I’ll be passing on the new one.
You should try the new one though, it’s nice. And I think rotting swamp will soon enough be hard to find!
Hey Robin.
It’s interesting to see your opinion on the fragrance is quite different from mine. The top smells like an Anise-Lime mixture to me!
I think Chanel could have launched this as a masculine and done well with it. So far we’ve sold a few bottles and have people interested in the fragrance.
I should think this would sell well…really wearable, really well done.
Robin, does Cristalle edt last on you?? As much as I like it, the bottle I had did not seem to last at all… The edp lasted longer and I liked it on hot days, but have run out. No wonder they are so easy to run out of if they do not last…
What is the lasting power of this new Cristalle Eau Verte?
And how does it compare in the “fresh breeze” and “fresh water” thing with Chanel Chance Eau Fraiche?
No, it doesn’t, but you can’t make a light sparkling citrus with a light base like that last, that’s all. If you make it more concentrated, you change the whole fragrance. So I don’t mind — I’d rather just accept that it isn’t going to last more than a few hours.
The new one lasts longer than the EdT, but did not test it against the lasting power of the EdP.
I don’t really know how it compares to Chance…I didn’t care for Chance & admittedly hardly remember what it smells like. I should try it again, but I’m not dying to.
I don’t like either of the Chance perfumes either. They smell cheap, common, and not good enough.
This is beautiful , summer scent. I think It is near Hermes Nil.
Yes, they do have a green coolness in common, agree.
hello, may i join you? i’m a newbie who is considering Cristalle as a 21st birthday pressie for my daughter, what do you think? i think it makes a good classic choice – i have a month or so to decide… she likes AA, the Anise one, my Eau Dynamisant from childhood (‘your ginger biscuit perfume, mum’), dior cherie, hermes un Jardin en Mediterranee, diesel fuel for life.
she liked Gucci flora recently but said it wore off very quickly
Hi and welcome! Did you find the Cristalle Eau Verte to last longer than Flora?
thanks Robin. the Eau Verte went full steam ahead on me for a couple of lovely hours then i completely lost track of it. poof! nowhere to be found. i haven’t tried the Flora on myself yet
however, today in my looking-around-researching type of shopping trip, i found and accidentally bought the Jouy Edition of viv westwood Boudoir… i like VW as they all, bar Anglomania, go to a heavenly soft cosy drydown on me, so i look forward to seeing how it develops. excuse the sidetrack btw
Maybe that’s the one you should gift, or is it too heavy for her?
Oh yes yes! Flora by Gucci is one of the lovliest, lightest yet long lasting perfumes out there AND it has some freshness to go with the floral notes. It’s quite nice. Unlike the Gucci by Gucci in the beautiful brown bottle, that smells like all hell.
Now that’s a plan. Where I bought it, it comes with an umbrellla (v appropriate for today where i am) or a little canvas tote bag too.
Boudoir used to be a favourite of mine but at the moment it’s in disgrace. For emotional reasons. However, although the Jouy does show it’s relationship to the original later on, it is definitely not an old-lady perfume. it doesn’t have that powdery thing going on. Yes, you’re def onto something. thanks!
Hope she’ll like it!
I think that you’re all mad! Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte is the best perfume Chanel has ever made yet, and it smells the best on me and is more ‘me’ than any of the other Chanel perfumes.
After Cristalle Eau Verte, Coco Mademoiselle which is beautiful & expensive smelling but too sweet to wear everyday would be my number two favorite, and then the two Allure fragrances that Chanel made are very suitable.
I detest, to my sadness, all of the Chanel ‘number’ perfumes because I hate the smell of patchouli & it’s so dominant! And the No. 5 bottle is the most beautiful bottle of them all, but pretty bottle usually house foul smells. I really don’t like the original Cristalle perfumes either, which is why the Eau Verte version surprised me, it smells of fresh lemons at first and I love lemons, so right there I loved it! It continues to smell classy, yet still fresh which Chanel perfumes usually don’t. And to me Eau Verte smells real so….
The other perfume that I’d really like to buy is Essence by Narcisco Rodriguez because it is the perfume of my dreams, very fresh and clean but alas it comes on so strong and sharp in my nose though! I’ll have to try spraying the bottle of Essence from much further away from my skin to weaken its effect or something. Where as the Cristalle Eau Verte is almost perfect. Try the new L’Eau D’Issey A Touch of Cloud also, it’s nice.
Oh yes The worst Chanel perfume of all is the Coco Chanel black label one, oh my God, they put the rotten something in that one.
One of my favorite fresh and light smelling perfumes of all time that I cannot get enough of is L’Eau Par Kenzo. Cannot get enough of it. And actually I love perfumes that don’t linger; I think it’s because I prefer and fall in love with top notes mostly.
Stupid Britain doesn’t sell L’Eau Par Kenzo anymore you have to get it duty free somewhere like on a ferry, ship, or a plane maybe.
I LOVE the freshness of citrusy perfumes. That’s why I love Gaultier on me because of all that orange.
Were these all meant to be replies to specific comments above? If so, try using the “reply to this comment button”.
Well, OK, I’m a perfume slut and have round heels. I sniffed this today, in our sweltering heat and thought, “Ahh, it’s a memory of the original Cristalle!” I liked the original and wore it, when I wore full-on aldehydes, chypres and mosses. And then I changed. Later I changed again. So in today’s heat, when I sprtized it, I liked it for what it was, and did not miss what it was not. Dear reader, I bought it (Sorry, Charlotte B). Turns out it mixes well with the Provence and Lime, Basil, Mandarin body creams from Jo Malone.
Oh, how nice!
(and love the gravatar)
It’s just been launched here in Australia and I thought it’s such a gorgeous sparkling green fragrance.
It’s finding lots of fans here too!
Hello! It just arrived in Argentina, and I got to smell it before getting to the D&G Anthology (I left a comment on kevin’s review earlier today)
Ok, so my impresiion is: it does smell very synthetic in the opening.
Have you ever smelled the Eau parfumee au the vert clones? like Elizabeth Arden’s green tea and the like they all smell like cheap clones of the Bulgari masterpiece… This one’s opening remind me of that note (that you describe like fresh-fake) the middle and drydown was ok. and classy, but only with glimpses of the EDT or EDP.
I got a bottle of the EDP as a gift to a friend very soon after it was release in the early nineties… That one was “tha bomb” to me hehehehehehe
Yes…wonder if the new restrictions on certain citrus oils mean that the “fake fresh” is all we are going to get from now on!
Hello — a couple of quick questions. I’m not a perfume-anista, however, I did fall in love with Cristalle when I was in Paris in 1992 (so I guess it must have been the eau de toilette??). I don’t know anything about restrictions on perfume ingredients, however, I did try Cristalle eau verte at a local Neiman Marcus last week-end. It reminded me how much I had liked my old Cristalle but as you mentioned, I found the top notes kind of fakey. From a search online, it seems you can still get Cristalle eau de toilette from Bloomingdales and Neiman Marcus in the US. Would this be the same Cristalle that I remember from almost 20 years ago???
Also – completely unrelated question – my absolute favorite perfume of the last ten years was Armani White. I was devastated when it disappeared. Can you tell me of any perfumes that are similar that are on the market now? I have a hard time trying out perfumes since I’m very migrainy and the ‘wrong’ ingredients can give me an insta-headache. Thanks for your help… Email me if you like.
Yes, it should have been the EdT that you tried. It’s been reformulated (several of the ingredients are now restricted) and I have not smelled the new version so can’t say how close it is to the old.
So sorry but can’t help you on the Armani White, I tried it once years ago but don’t remember it well.
To Emporio White lovers – I’m facing the same problem and here are the replacements that worked for me:
– Mugler Cologne, as far as you can get in terms of similarity. Another good scent by Alberto Morillas. Lots of good smelling citruses over nice white musk. On my skin it begins great, but somehow loses its radiance and turns flat after a couple of hours.
– Cerutti Image, not quite similar in notes, but has a distinct “clean”, transparent smell. Very good sillage.
– Cristalle Eau Verte, again, not really similar, less abstract, less “clean white sheets dried outside” effect, but a classy and beautiful composition.
– Eau Torride, love the bamboo and jasmine here, again not an abstract scent, but a very pretty, clean and trasparent one.
I would be glad to find out about other options.
Eau de Gentiane Blanche – another beautiful super clean scent:)
Hi Robin, thanks for your review. I came across it because I only met Cristalle EV a few days ago and wondered when it was launched. Have you noticed how like it smells to Chanel’s boutique fragrance 28 La Pausa, just without the iris. La Pausa is one of my current favourites, but CEV is a lovely light, summery, easy-to-wear daytime spritz and is nicely androgynous. It reminds me of Annick Goutal’s Mandragore too which also has lots of bergamot – yum!
Interesting! Not sure I can imagine 28 La Pausa without the iris.
I do get some good magnolia from Channel EV; my favorite magnolia at the $70 dollar prize range is J’Adore L’Aau? I hope I spelled it correctly.
Robin,
Can this be used by men? the opening is rather masculine if I remember correct….but generally? Can men wear this?
I should think so. It isn’t what I’d call “conventionally masculine”, but I don’t see why a man couldn’t wear it.