I tried hard to think of a theme that would tie these together, but there isn't one — just brief reviews of three perfumes I've been meaning to write about: Ormonde Jayne Tiare, Stella McCartney Stella Nude and Strange Invisible Perfumes Fire and Cream.
Ormonde Jayne Tiare
Tiare is the latest from British niche line Ormonde Jayne. The tiare flower, as many of you know, is the Tahitian gardenia (Gardenia taitensis), and tiare-based perfumes are usually done in a heady, lush tropical manner — Monyette Paris, Montale Intense Tiare, André Gas Ensoleille Moi, et al. — often with coconut lending a beachy, sunscreen sort of feel. Ormonde Jayne takes a different approach: this Tiare is light and airy. The opening is citrus-y, the florals in the heart are summery and lightly green (and I would not notice gardenia if I was not looking for it), with an ever-so-slightly creamy finish and just a touch of sweetness. The woods in the dry down are pale and mossy-earthy.
Tiare is beautiful, and the mossy dry down is especially lovely. Luca Turin said it was the best thing he'd smelled recently. So why does it not pull at my heart or my wallet? I don't know, but I had the same reaction to Sampaquita. So, into the purgatory basket it goes: I will try it again in the spring and see if it speaks to me then.
Ormonde Jayne Tiare is available in 50 ml Parfum (£180), 50 ml Eau de Parfum (£68) or in a set of four 10 ml travel sprays (£54). The notes include mandarin, orange flower, sicilian lime, tiare (Tahitian gardenia), freesia, water lilies, jasmine, orris, ylang ylang, cedar, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, moss and musk. For buying information, see the listing for Ormonde Jayne under Perfume Houses.
Stella McCartney Stella Nude
If you took a blend of the original Stella fragrance and the Stella in Two Peony, laid it over a squeaky clean, long lasting musk, then toned it down about as far as you could whilst still leaving something to smell, you'd have Stella Nude. I can't see the point of that — especially given all the various iterations of Stella Sheer they've already done — but I'm sure somebody, somewhere, wanted such a thing. The bottle is quite nice, and it might make a perfect linen spray (it has that dryer sheet vibe, and in fact they're selling it in a "Linen Scented Mist").
Stella McCartney Stella Nude is available in 30, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette; the notes include Moroccan rose, grapefruit, peony, pink pepper, vanilla and amber.
Strange Invisible Perfumes Fire and Cream
Strange Invisible Perfume's new-ish Fire and Cream opens on orange and orange blossom. If you're familiar with the Strange Invisible Perfume natural perfume line, you'll know exactly what I mean when I say it has a sharply herbal, almost medicinal character, especially in the early stages (and there is quite a bit of lavender), and if you've smelled some of their more recent offerings, the softer, earthier dry down will also be familiar to you, as it has elements in common with their Musc Botanique and Aquarian Roses fragrances.
It isn't really fiery or creamy, but it's a very enjoyable fragrance, especially if you're a fan of both orange and the Strange Invisible Perfumes aesthetic: I drained my sample in no time. Still, I don't like it quite as well as the two other fragrances I mentioned, Musc Botanique and Aquarian Roses, and so I'll just add my usual: if a bottle fell from the sky, I'd wear it, but I don't love it enough to add it to the "buy" list. The lasting power is good for a natural perfume: a few hours.
Strange Invisible Perfumes Fire and Cream is available in 50 ml Eau de Parfum for $145 or in 1/4 oz Parfum for $195. The notes include orange, orange blossom, vetiver, sandalwood, patchouli, tuberose, frankincense and lavender. For buying information, see the listing for Strange Invisible Perfumes under Perfume Houses.
Sigh,,,another on the must try list goes the Tiare… will pass on the others. I love Stella Absolute. I also don’t see the point or the need of lightening up Stella anyways. When I want something lighter I go in a totally different direction like an AG fragrance. I am chomping at the bit right now because I have put sampling on hold til after Christmas ….patience! patience! but my list is getting very long! LOL!
I truly don’t understand why the didn’t make something different from the rest of the Stella line…but nobody asks me
Wow – thanks for all the reviews Robin – we get three for the price of one today! I have to say, when Stella Nude came out, my immediate reaction was “What’s the point?”. Sounds like that was an accurate gut reaction. Ormonde Jayne Woman remains my top priority for a ‘must sniff’ OJ scent after reading this. Fragrances by SIP is not on my sampling agenda for the near future, but I hope to do so at some point. [I finally got about 10 DSH samples in the mail the other day – squeee! – that should keep me busy for a little while.]
OJ Woman is fabulous, but not me. I can’t decide if this one is fabulous or not. It might be. Or not.
My favorites are still Frangipani, Champaca & Ta’if!
I definitely ought to try Tiare. I need a summer floral and it sounds like it could be a contender (their Frangipani is currently at the top of that list).
Thanks for the reviews and for the link to the LA Times article,. I enjoyed both!
If you want a summery gardenia, you might also try the Annick Goutal Matin d’Orage…although I did not love that one either. But it’s worth a shot!
I’ll make sure to check it out, I don’t think I tried this one!
I had to laugh at your no-theme statement, because I got to the bottom and came up with one immediately: “Recent Releases: Very Nice, But Didn’t Grab Me.” (I know, I know, you usually don’t like to make such judgments in the review title, you Miss Blind Justice, you. And let me say that I do appreciate your coolheaded reviews very much; I think you’re careful to be equitable. I can’t manage that!)
SIP is another one of those houses that the state of my wallet has made me selectively ignorant of.
Oh, I guess that is so! I didn’t think about it that way. But not fair to lump them all: Stella Nude is pointless, surely, from a perfumista point of view, the other 2 are really not. The SIP, actually, I can see someone loving. The OJ too, although I am going to be surprised if it’s the already-existing OJ fans that love it — and I thought the same as Sampaquita…maybe reaching out for a different customer? Or maybe it will appeal to the same people who loved Sampaquita.
I love the OJ line, and will definitely need to try the Tiare. I’m particularly happy to hear that it’s a less tropical approach than the usual tiare scent.
I’d love to wear something that truly smelled both fiery and creamy. Sounds like the SIP scent isn’t it, though.
I guess, although I kind of wish she had gone the “lush” route…I would like to smell a lush gardenia from OJ!
I blind bought the OJ Tiare as someone was hosting a split of the travel atomizers. I love it. You’ve described it perfectly too. It’s rich, mossy, and mildly tropical. I faintly detect the gardenia but that might only be because I’m looking for it.
I also wasn’t wowed by Sampaquita, but Tiare is gorgeous. Don’t give up on it yet!
Good, glad to see a fan show up! I do think it’s a lovely scent.
Oh, goody, lovethescents, this sounds like one I will like, too! Right now, Ta’if is my favorite of the line, followed by Tolu, Woman, and Champaca. I wish Frangipane did it for me, but it didn’t. And I can’t explain why.
So…Why is the OJ Tiare fabulous, but not you, babe?
I know I admire her fragrances. They are so well done, with quality ingredients. But none of them have tugged at my heart strings at all.
I was hoping this one might be, well, the one.
On the other hand, I just read 1000 Fragrances and guess what? AG has a new fragrance, in an emerald green bottle called Nifeo Mio debuting. Now that’s something I may have to sink my teeth, my skin, and my wallet into!
Hugs!
I don’t know. I would say it’s too light & airy, but there are other light & airy scents I love. It’s just missing some sort of zing?
And oh, an emerald green AG…I will go look (notice all it takes is the color, LOL…)
Curious about the OJ just from an “academic” standpoint. But I had high hopes for the Fire & Cream (still love that name). I still want to try it, as I do love orange , but sounds like perhaps a bit too much lavender. I’ve only tried one or two SIPs and I can’t remember which.
I have a sneaky feeling that if you tried either MB and/or AR and hated them, you would not like this. Kevin hates them all, I think (perhaps I’m exaggerating)
For sure didn’t sample those two, but I think Fair Verona and Magazine Street. I don’t remember either bowling me over but I might have liked FV better? Time to pull out the vials again.
Ok, not those 2 then. Do try Black Rosette though!
Hi, Robin. I think what threw me about the Tiare is that the marketing materials (which I’m sure you received) go on and on and ON about how they wanted to showcase this rare crop of flowers to their best advantage etc. etc. And the thing is, in fact, named Tiare. So to smell it and find scant evidence of the flower, and not get that heady tropical thing, seems a strike against it. Also it’s not especially my type of scent, although I’m surprised it didn’t grab you. I’d have thought it would.
Yes, it’s odd how much emphasis was laid on this material, which is then lightened up w/ all the other florals. But maybe this material is not so lush as I imagine it? But it really did remind me (in style) of Sampaquita, which leaves me absolutely cold.
Tiare is one of my favorite notes, so I am really anticipating trying OJ’s take on it. I wonder if it’s in their sampler set, which I still need to pick up… SIP really hadn’t intrigued me until Fire and Cream came out, and since I do love orange, I definitely want to give it a try. I only tried one of Stella’s frags and it reminded me of Crabtree & Evelyn. Pretty, non-offensive and fine enough for what it was. But I’m sticking with my love of frangipani and tiare. Intense Tiare is one of my absolute favorite perfumes along with Chantecaille (sp?) Frangipane, and OJ’s Tiare sounds somewhere between the two. Must try!
tiare is not yet added to the sample set. a friend of mine has just been to London, i asked her to bring me a sample set and beg for a tiare. she did it
so i will try it on saturday, so excited 
Oh good!
Oh, and I’d nearly forgot but I think Chantecaille has a Tiare scent too. Can’t remember it, but I must have smelled it on paper at least.
I am so excited to smell Tiare. A bunch of people from Basenotes have a meeting at Ormonde Jayne tomorrow and I am waiting eagerly to hear how it goes down with them!
I have been boycotting Stella lately on account of the confusing proliferation of flankers. It is time to start on the McCartneys.
Oh, what fun! Let us know what you think.
I am so very intrigued by the OJ range – mostly because it doesn’t have a presence in Adelaide. I am so excited to be going to London in June, where I will endeavour to find the store and sample everything they’ve got and hopefully love something enough to walk away with a bottle!
Yes, do go…it’s a wonderful line, one of my favorites.
OJ Tiare = must sniff.
Stella ad infinintum= don’t care
SIP Fire & Cream = what a fabulous name! orange, yeah, I like me some orange….lavender, argggg! deal breaker.
back to OJ Tiare….must get a sample. Sounds a little like OJ is pulling the same trick as Guerlain with Cruel Gardenia…it’s not really about gardenias!, just as it sounds that Tiare isn’t about tiare…..will that keep me from tracking some down? Of course not!!! Do you not know me at all??
Although my current OJ lemming is of the Tolu variety and I’d be on the trail of some right now if only Guerlain hadn’t recently sucked every penny out my pocket like the creature from Alien…..
Well, must say that adding the word ‘cruel’ turned out to be laying it on a bit thick…but I really didn’t much care for CG and I know some people did love it. So.
Well, Daisy, I’m tempted to go into this split-hosting thing and get the travel sets of Tolu, Ta’if, and maybe Tiare!
Like you, Robin, I love Woman but it doesn’t quite say “me”. And I think your final assessment of Tiare is the same one I had of Frangipane. So if it’s not for you, maybe it will be for me!
the slope, she is slippery!
Yeah, I totally caved and joined a split of Tolu…..waiting for Royal Air to swim it across the pond. I wonder if a single travel size will do though….I’m exceptionally greedy sometimes. My brain says “get a decant and be satisfied” but my gut fairly screams “buy a great big bottle!!” …..it’s difficult.
Hope you’ll like Tiare then!
The SIP Fire and Cream was in the most recent Sephora catalog. Not having heard of it, I got all excited about a smoky, creamy scent. I did some googling and ended up disappointed — I’m not a big orange fan. Only then did I find out the price and realize that it’s a good thing that I don’t even have to try this one!
The SIP line, like many all-natural lines, is not cheap.
Thanks for the review, Robin. Your take on OJ Tiare makes me want to try it. If it’s not heady floral, it might just fit the bill for my spring wedding scent. Just got engaged this Thanksgiving and the first thing that came to my mind was not the dress….it’s the perfume LOL. I guess I could just show up in T shirt and jeans as long as I’m wearing a fabulous frag I could care less. The fiance is not big on florals so this will be a challenge. I either need to find a light floral or a green perfume I guess.
CONGRATULATIONS!!!! you need to do the monday mail so we can all make a zillion wedding recommendations (you know we live for this kind of stuff!) Check out my notepad at MUA and see if there’s anything at all there that even whispers “spring wedding” to you and I’ll send you samples. (I’m daisylu)
hi Daisy, i so much love your passion about anything related to scents
Wow, thanks so much Daisy! I’ll take you up on your offer
I’m a little scared by the gazillion samples I know I’ll be trying. The fiance has to approve as well, he’s picky. I already submitted my request for Monday Mail, so I better take out my notepad.
Great! I’ve already begun making selections on your behalf! I wouldn’t necessarily rule out all florals—when he says he doesn’t like floral perfume , he might be thinking something like “sweet white flowery, dept. store type” …..maybe he just hasn’t been sniffing the right stuff. But it’s good to start testing as soon as possible.
Oh, congrats — that’s wonderful! Do consider the Monday Mail, that might work out perfectly.
Thanks, Robin. I sent you an e-mail. I didn’t even think about submitting a Monday Mail. I should have plenty of time to try out the scents by April.
Adding my congrats! I love that you are more concerned about the fragrance than the dress.
Gracias! Yeah that’s how much of a perfume geek I am. Although my knowledge of scents pale in comparison to the perfumistas here. But I’m always up for a learning experience.
Perfumegeek, big big congratulations :DDDDD
waiting for spring to come combined with waiting for wedding to come must be great. please update us later which perfume you picked on THEDAY
Aw, thanks so much. I’m pretty excited. The wedding planning will be somewhat stressful but we’re not planning anything extravagant. I will have to make up my mind by the end of March I suppose,….I’ll let you know!
Congratulations Perfumegeek! I hope that through the Monday Mail we’ll be able to help you find the perfect scent for your special day! I have to reiterate how awesome it is that your first thought was what perfume to wear!
Robin: Thank’s for the review! I was just looking at Fire and Cream on The Perfumed Court site today and wishing there was a review of it. From your description, it might not be what I had in mind. I’m looking for something really warm, smokey, and smooth with a creamy finish. As we are speaking I am wearingsome of my sample of Kenzo Flower Oriental and I’m really enjoying it, but I almost want to take the depth and smokiness a little farther.
As for the other two fragrances: The Ormand Jayne sounds lovely but I don’t even want to think about spring perfumed yet. I am just now thinking about all the cold winter days ahead that will give me an excuse to wear really over-the-top fragrances. I got a sample of Stella Nude at Sephora the other day when I was shopping around for a gift for my sister. I liked it but I would not buy it. I have never smelled the Stella sheers so I don’t have anything to compare it to. I thought the notes of it were pleasant but it didn’t have enough drama for me (I’m discovering that I’m a drama queen when it comes to fragrances . . . and other things too).
Fire & Cream is not that sort of drama, at least, not to me. But wondering if you’d like Ormonde Jayne Woman or Ormonde Jayne Tolu? But also thinking of Donna Karan Black Cashmere, have you tried that? Or maybe Givenchy Organza Indecence?
Black Cashmere is on my wishlist at Perfumed Court, and Organza Indecence is part of a sample pack they have that I am considering. I recently ordered their “Incense” sampler pack in addition to the Kenzo, and I am really enjoying it, especially Comme de Garcons Kyoto. In general I am just really impressed with that site and the fact that they offer scent that I can’t find anywhere locally.
Minnie, totally agree. my favourite site after nst nowadays. without them a would have never met some of my beloved perfumes.
Kyoto is gorgeous!
I was hoping Tiare by OJ would be a full on ballsy gardenia- I want ot smell the gardenia in something called Tiare. I will sample anyhow…..
Fire and cream is a beautiful name….
Nope, definitely not ballsy.
I caved and bought a whole bottle of Tiare (unsniffed) and I am not sorry! It is a very beautiful fragrance and I find it a positive point that it doesn’t smell too predominantly of tiare, which can be a bit headachey for me. However ……. it is so light that it is almost like air, and I want to smell my perfume wafting around! Although, having said that, it has a lasting power in that I could detect it on my skin the morning after. It might be that my nose problems at the moment make it seem weaker than it is, but I do love it all the same, and I think it is one of those little critters that worms its way into your heart the more you wear it. And, as has been said, it is not dissimilar to Cristalle (which used to be my HG), but is much prettier.
It’s missing the zing of Cristalle, to me…but maybe comparable to Cristalle EdP?
All the people looking for a more opulent tiare, you might like Les Nez Manoumalia. I only tested it briefly but it was a lush, tropical scent complete with a touch of coconut. The feel of it reminded me of Carnal Flower somewhat, I should really re-test it soon.
Yes, that one is definitely lush!
As I mentioned previously I ordered the travel sprays of Tiare. My Tiare arrived three days ago and I’ve been wearing it everyday since. I use my children (two girls, age 5 and 6) as my sniff test. The princess-obsessed 6 yr old loves the scent while the free spirit 5 yr old thinks it is too “pretty” (her word, not mine). She likes it more after it dried down some, and at the end of the day she REALLY loves it. I too, find the initial “flower kick” somewhat dizzy and distracting but as it dries, I love it more and more.
Oh good, so glad it worked out!
In case folks are interested, Luca Turin’s latest NZ Folio column is about Tiare. He’s such a OJ fanboy
http://www.nzzfolio.ch/www/21b625ad-36bc-48ea-b615-1c30cd0b472d/showarticle/34043b48-9085-4dd4-8ef6-d73b0e3bb51c.aspx
Oh thanks, will post that tomorrow!
Love this site. Thought I’d try Ormonde Jayne’s Tiare despite your luke warm response and I have to say I adore it. The cedar wood and lime just blows me away. Keep up the good work.
So glad you love the Tiare, and thanks for the kind words about NST