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Nasomatto Black Afgano ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 15 July 2009 53 Comments

Nasomatto Black Afgano bottle

I’ve been known to let people sniff a perfume I’m wearing and tell them an outright lie: “Oh, this? It’s built around a molasses-corn silk note that’s just been developed!” or “The perfumer was trying to re-create a country scene. Imagine a field in early summer: the scents of cows, manure, grass, damp earth, and a near-by forest full of blooming honeysuckle!” I tell these “stories” with a straight face and excitement in my voice and often people believe me: “That’s what it smells like!” they say.

I do believe it’s possible to pull the proverbial wool over the eyes (and noses) of even the most jaded perfume lovers if you wrap vibrant images, an exotic storyline, and “forbidden,” “rare” and “hard-to-import” ingredients around a new fragrance; maybe it’s even EASIER to pull the wool over perfume lovers’ eyes because we often have well-developed imaginations, and we desperately want new perfumes to be BOLD! OUTRAGEOUS! ORIGINAL!

I became excited about Nasomatto Black Afgano as I read news releases about its formulation; judging from the fragrance’s description (“smuggled” ingredients, harsh herbs, marijuana-as-incense) I was expecting something strange and “illicit.” Black Afgano’s dark brown juice is syrupy and the fragrance opens with strong aromas of “dirty” cedar (added cumin?) and musk. There is also a hint of wood-scented cigarette smoke in the opening minutes of the fragrance. Black Afgano’s mid-phase of development comes closest to smelling like marijuana with a dry, herbal-leafy accord  (think cured tobacco) tinged with a sweet ‘sweaty’ note. As the scent dries down, there’s a brief moment of funky-furry musk, then Black Afgano becomes vanillic-amber-y with a touch of patchouli.

The lasting power of Black Afgano is sensational — I could smell it on my skin 24 hours after application — but it has minimal sillage; its stages of development are best observed at close range (nose near skin).

s p l i f f # n i n e t y f o u r

Though Black Afgano was blended to evoke the scent of high-grade marijuana (Cannabis sativa), and many reviewers and commenters on perfume blogs have been excitedly talking about its “weirdness” and its scent of fragrant weed, it does not smell much like marijuana (living, dried or burning) to me (or to a hashish-loving friend I let wear it). Black Afgano is a handsome oriental fragrance for men; it’s a “well-rounded” perfume with no ragged/jagged edges. Black Afgano smells more like the incense people use to cover up their pot use than it does the drug itself.

Nasomatto Black Afgano was created by Alessandro Gualtieri, and it’s available in 30 ml Parfum ($148). For buying information, see the listing for Nasomatto under Perfume Houses.

Note: top images of Cannabis sativa left and right via Wikimedia Commons. Lower image is s p l i f f # n i n e t y f o u r by splifr at flickr; some rights reserved.

Included in...

Best new fragrances for men ~ 2009-2010 edition

Possibly of interest

Nasomatto Nudiflorum ~ new fragrance
Nasomatto Baraonda ~ fragrance review
5 Perfumes that Smell Like Booze

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: marijuana, nasomatto

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53 Comments

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  1. SmokeyToes says:
    15 July 2009 at 1:40 pm

    Hi Kevin!
    This sounds absolutely amazing! It has many aspects I crave in a scent! Dirty cedar, musk, smoke, dry-herbal-leafy accord, sweaty, funky-furry musk, then vanillic-amber with a touch of patchouli? I love/wear Hindu Grass, I’d be very interested in smelling this.

    Hide. My. Credit. Cards. Please! :)

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    • Kevin says:
      15 July 2009 at 3:33 pm

      Smokey: it IS very nice!

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  2. Janice says:
    15 July 2009 at 1:43 pm

    Kevin, Great review. I love the idea of making up stories about perfumes. I wonder if I can get my husband to try this one—I’d like to find an incense/tobacco-ish scent that he would actually wear. Probably best if I don’t tell him what it’s supposed to be first…

    Have you tried PG’s Cozé, which is also supposed to have canapa sativa seed oil? To me that one just smelled very vegetal and rank (it’s also has pimento, I think—maybe that was it?). But some of the PGs seem to be different on me than on everyone else… in Cadjmere I get all coconut and almost nothing else.

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    • Kevin says:
      15 July 2009 at 3:33 pm

      Janice: haven’t tried the Coze…yet.

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  3. angelainthesky says:
    15 July 2009 at 2:40 pm

    Thank you for this great review!
    This perfume sounds wonderful, precisely what I like: strong lasting power and minimal silage. I’m a bit prudish with my own scent and like it to stay within my own personal boundary so that only those I want will smell it.
    But Kevin, do you believe this is too masculine for women?

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    • Kevin says:
      15 July 2009 at 3:35 pm

      Angela: I find it masculine…but you may be OK with it. If you’d wear Dior Jules, you could wear this.

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      • desmondorama says:
        15 July 2009 at 10:10 pm

        Kevin, I just adore ‘Jules’ by CD, so I’m sure I’ll love this one as well.!

        It’s such a pity that Dior have not promoted ‘Jules’ as commercially as the current offerings which lack true character and distinction like Fahrenheit, Eau Sauvage and Jules.

        I know you can locate a few bottles of Jules online, but these rare and vintage collectors’ few are astronomically priced.

        Perhaps we (perfume blogsites) should start a campaign to Parfums Christian Dior to re-release this iconic fragrance. What do you think, readers?

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        • Kevin says:
          16 July 2009 at 12:53 am

          Desmondorama: as far as I know Jules is still being made…just not exported. Several French readers have written me saying it’s available.

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  4. Joe says:
    15 July 2009 at 2:47 pm

    Hi Kevin! First off, I’ll admit I’d be eager to sample something with a molasses-corn silk note for kicks. (And regarding your yarn-spinning, I have to say, “Muriel, you’re terrible.”)

    You’ve made this sound pretty nice, but the wannabe-illicit copy is just too adolescent somehow for me. For a perhaps similar vibe at more reasonable prices, I’ll probably stick to the Fumerie Turque and Lonestar Memories that I’ve been sampling recently (LM last night, in fact). Enjoy your week and thanks for the review.

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    • Kevin says:
      15 July 2009 at 3:35 pm

      Joe: you’re welcome and I like both of your back-up scents.

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  5. plume says:
    15 July 2009 at 2:54 pm

    Is the perfume black itself? I’m guessing it’s a dye?

    Anyway, really interested in trying this. Black Afghani hash has a sweet kind of oatmeal-ish scent to it.. not sure if I’d want to smell like it all day but definitely curious to find out.

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    • Kevin says:
      15 July 2009 at 3:36 pm

      Plume: no, the perfume is NOT black at all…just a nice clear brown color.

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  6. Carlos BFL 319 says:
    15 July 2009 at 3:40 pm

    Sigh! I don’t think I’ll EVER be able to pay off my Barney’s Card. HA!

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    • Kevin says:
      15 July 2009 at 6:35 pm

      C: don’t smell it and you’ll be safe!!!!! (love that bottle though…the top)

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  7. krokodilgena says:
    15 July 2009 at 4:33 pm

    This was recommended to me in my Monday Mail entry, so this was at the top of my to-try list.
    but I haven’t tried it yet.

    Log in to Reply
    • norjunma1 says:
      15 July 2009 at 4:51 pm

      Me too. I was wild about China White, which seemed to me like a grown up version of an incense/musk frag I used to rock years ago.

      BTW, is it me, or does it seem like the folks at Nasomatto are using some boldness = illicit drugs equation to drum up their inspiration?

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      • Kevin says:
        15 July 2009 at 6:37 pm

        Norjunma1: yes, I’m sure the talk of drugs is thought to be exciting…and the perfumer is pretty wild himself. HA!

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    • Kevin says:
      15 July 2009 at 6:36 pm

      Krok: from earlier comments you’ve made re: your perfume preferences…I think this will please you.

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  8. lilydale aka Natalie says:
    15 July 2009 at 4:58 pm

    I’m with Joe on the adolescent ooh-look-at-me-I’m-so-baaad attitude — grow up, will ya?! However, you are so right about certain descriptions and notes being like catnip to perfume people (hmm, poll idea, Robin?). Personally, I find it completely impossible to resist anything characterized as “disturbing”!

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    • Kevin says:
      15 July 2009 at 6:38 pm

      Lilydale: me too! Call it ‘disturbing’ and I must try it.

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      • donanicola says:
        16 July 2009 at 8:27 am

        Enjoyed the review, thanks Kevin. Just responding to the catnip comment above which I totally relate to. Angela reviewed something here which she described as hideously beautiful and which she saw being worn by someone with a difficult past and possibly bi polar disorder. I bought a bottle. (Patou’s Que Sais -Je )

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    • krokodilgena says:
      15 July 2009 at 7:25 pm

      ~*Orientalness*~ seems to appeal to a lot of people who like perfume.
      I like Asian inspired things, but whenever ad copies mention the ~*~*mysterious and mythical Orient*~*~ I just want to send whoever wrote it the BigBang/2NE1 “Lollipop” video a million times.

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      • desmondorama says:
        15 July 2009 at 10:02 pm

        Krokodilgena: I totally agree with you on your comment about the exotic and mystical Orient. Show me any perfume that hints ‘disturbing’, ‘illicit’, ‘taboo’ and ‘forbidden’ and I’ll be desperate to try/buy it!

        That’s why I’m s hung up on “Opium’ by YSL; the advertising and sophistication of the perfume concept is almost drug-like.

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        • krokodilgena says:
          15 July 2009 at 10:18 pm

          oh yeah, I meant to say mystical and not mythical lol.

          Taboo/forbidden doesn’t really interest me, I just like weirdo perfumes. CdG usually appeals to me.

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  9. Rappleyea says:
    15 July 2009 at 5:46 pm

    Kevin –
    This was hysterical – you are so bad! Thanks for lightening my day.

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    • Kevin says:
      15 July 2009 at 6:38 pm

      Rappleyea: you’re welcome!

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  10. alotofscents says:
    15 July 2009 at 5:46 pm

    I ordered Demeter’s *Earthworm* because I wanted a forest floor smell. Unfortunately, it smells exactly like fish-bait and damp dirt. Demeter seems to be very literal. Now where am I gonna where this?:)

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    • Joe says:
      15 July 2009 at 5:57 pm

      Um, to the Delaware River Shad Festival? ;) I remember someone saying they layered Demeter Dirt under something but I’d either sell it for a song on ebay or scentsplits or chalk it up to $15 wasted or whatever. Sorry to hear about it.

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      • Kevin says:
        15 July 2009 at 6:41 pm

        Joe: Dirt is nice with vetiver…but even I may draw the line at Earthworm (though I’d sniff it, if it were handy)

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    • Kevin says:
      15 July 2009 at 6:39 pm

      Alotofscents: EARTHWORM!? Demeter is INTO DIRT in many of the scents….

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    • Tama says:
      15 July 2009 at 9:26 pm

      I like Earthworm! I get no fish food at all, just very loamy dirt. I layer it with green florally things like their Wet Garden to give it a bit more rainy-day depth.

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      • Kevin says:
        15 July 2009 at 9:46 pm

        Tama: that layering sounds nice….

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  11. Gilty says:
    15 July 2009 at 6:37 pm

    I’m working my way through a large sample of Narcotic Venus, which I must admit I’m loving so far. After that exercise in projecting “the overwhelming addictive intensity of female sexual power” I might just need some Black Afgano and “a quest to arouse the effects of temporary bliss…” I sort of love the crazy copy, actually (“crazy nose,” crazy copy?) Thanks for the great review!

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    • Kevin says:
      15 July 2009 at 6:43 pm

      Gilty: I STILL have not tried Narcotic Venus…is it “hyper-femme?”

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      • sweetgrass says:
        22 July 2012 at 2:38 am

        i just tried Black Afghano today, and I can attest to the lasting power. I tried several Nasomattos today, and the Black Afghano/China White combo is the only one still standing, about 10 hours later (actually not sure if it’s both or just the drydown of the BA). I like Black Afghano, though the beginning did give a bit of a raspy sensation in my nose. It layers nicely with China White, as I mentioned. China White is definitely my favorite of the Nasomatto line.

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  12. laken says:
    15 July 2009 at 7:40 pm

    “smuggled” ingredients …. I love it! who thought of that?

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    • Kevin says:
      15 July 2009 at 7:47 pm

      Laken: HA! Who knows…but it’s one I’ve never heard before. Kudos!

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  13. Jared says:
    15 July 2009 at 7:48 pm

    Sounds absolutely fantastic…as long as it doesn’t resemble Yatagan in any way, I’m there. Yesterday I gave Yatagan it’s final try, and nope. Still nauseating. This would probably make a great replacement though!

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    • Kevin says:
      15 July 2009 at 8:08 pm

      Jared: no, not at all like Yatagan.

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    • Joe says:
      15 July 2009 at 8:52 pm

      Jared! I’m sad… you have such terrifically eclectic taste for the unusual. I’m sorry that Yatagan nauseated you! It must be dabbed… lightly! But no lack of other perfumes if it doesn’t work.

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      • Kevin says:
        15 July 2009 at 9:36 pm

        Joe: “Dabbed”…be damned…Yatagan must be sprayed with wild abandon!!!!

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      • Jared says:
        15 July 2009 at 11:26 pm

        I know! I even bought Yatagan unsniffed thinking it would be right up my alley. Sadly, even after several tries, I just can’t. Even lightly dabbed I’m not sure if I could do it. I did like Kevin and sprayed with wild abandon trying to force myself into it LOL. And…buh bye.

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  14. Abraham says:
    15 July 2009 at 9:07 pm

    Great review. This is why I think that blind tests are great, It really puts the product to the test.

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    • Kevin says:
      15 July 2009 at 9:45 pm

      Abraham…blind testing is great…I wonder how often it’s used though…. Marketing people LOVE to put ideas in people’s heads.

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      • alotofscents says:
        16 July 2009 at 1:01 am

        Hey Kevin, I could also wear my Earthworm fragrance when I want to be nostalgic, or to attract a handsome Bass fisher, or even to lie to my nosey sister, “Yep, I’ve been working hard in the garden this morning.”
        Off topic–I love Polo on a man, it turns me on. What smells similar or in the same category as Polo? I am still in the dark ages when it comes to men’s fragrances.

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        • Kevin says:
          16 July 2009 at 2:15 am

          alotofscents: I, too, love Polo (in the green bottle)…and I really can’t think of anything quite like it on the perfume shelves.

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  15. Gilty says:
    15 July 2009 at 9:51 pm

    Kevin, no Narcotic Venus is not hyper-femme. There’s a sharpness to it, a bit like that steam-iron musk to me, that makes it veer into darker territory. It’s also more subtle than its reputation…I don’t find it overpowering and, as you say about BA, it stays close to the skin. I’d call Beyond Love a femme tuberose; NV is definitely edgier and I think it may work on some guys.

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    • Kevin says:
      16 July 2009 at 12:45 am

      Gilty: thanks…I’ll get a sample then.

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  16. carmencanada says:
    16 July 2009 at 1:49 am

    I guess Nasomatto is to regulated substances what Etat Libre d’Orange is to sex… I’ll give this one a try, but I do find the line a little too deliberately rough-edged for my tastes. I almost scrubbed my fingerprints clean off when some Duro got on my fingertips during a decanting operation.

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    • Kevin says:
      16 July 2009 at 2:11 am

      CarmenC: really…can’t wait to see what drug is next!

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  17. julesinrose says:
    16 July 2009 at 8:40 am

    I would think the smell of marijuana would be easy to re-create, but I’m no scent chemist. Frankly, I find that skunky smell nearly revolting, so it’s nice that this doesn’t smell like it (to me)! I have never smelled China White as I certainly wouldn’t blind buy, but I’m so curious. No one on MUA, where I usually conduct swap, has ever had it (and/or) wanted to swap with me. ; (

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    • Kevin says:
      16 July 2009 at 8:36 pm

      JulesinRose: China White is my favorite of the Nasomattos I’ve tried … it’s worth buying a sample I think.

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  18. Petitgrain says:
    2 November 2012 at 4:39 pm

    It was fabulous for first couple of hours. After that, it was still good but no better than Korres Saffron which is much cheaper than this one. hmmm…. what should I do?

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