Idylle is the latest feminine pillar from Guerlain, and the first from house perfumer Thierry Wasser, and as such, poor thing, carries with it a fair amount of baggage. I liked Guerlain's last such effort, Insolence, but would not be surprised to hear that it was not a big seller. I did not like the one prior to that, L'Instant, but would not be surprised to hear that it sold quite well. So.
Insolence made reference to Guerlain's past and the brand's famed Guerlinade base.1 Idylle does not, so we can dispense with that right away. Instead, it offers a "contemporary interpretation" of Guerlinade, based on a "chypre signature of patchouli and white musk". I've gone on ad nauseam elsewhere about the modern chypre concept — which apparently means only that you've added a bit of clean patchouli to the base — so I won't belabor the point here, but I will say that there's nothing unusual or striking enough about the patchouli and white musk base of Idylle for it to constitute a recognizable brand signature, far from it — it very neatly marks Idylle as a modern department store fragrance.
It is perhaps not surprising, then, that Idylle has been widely compared on the internets to several existing fragrances. One of those, Sarah Jessica Parker's Lovely, I can vouch for: the clean patchouli-musk base is very similar. Another, Narciso Rodriguez Essence (or according to some reports, the original Narciso Rodriguez For Her), I can't, because I haven't smelled it. A third, Estee Lauder Pleasures, yes, I can see the point there too. Take a bit of the floral blend, minus the soap, from Pleasures, add the Lovely base, and you've got something like Idylle.
But all of that ignores how darned pretty Idylle is. The floral bouquet of lily of the valley, peony, freesia, jasmine, lilac and rose, with an emphasis on the rose, is just lovely. It's sharp and crisp at first, later, smoother and creamier, with soft fruity-jammy undertones. The heart notes are sweet but not heavy — Guerlain calls it a "floral mist", and that's accurate: it's done with a light touch that ties in nicely with the "golden raindrops" theme of the advertising. The dry down is slightly dark, slightly earthy, but without any skank whatsoever, very much in the modern chypre mold.
Idylle smells young, and to me, more cheerful than sexy, although if you found fragrances like Yves Saint Laurent's Elle sexy, you might find this sexy too. It's very wearable, and while not earth-shatteringly unique, better done than much of its competition. If you're still trying new Guerlain fragrances with the ghosts of Mitsouko and Shalimar hanging over your shoulder, it's bound to be a big disappointment, but if you're looking for a wearable floral this season and Guerlain is just another brand to you, it's worth a shot.
Guerlain Idylle is available in 35, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum. I do not know where you can find it at the moment in the US; it's supposed to be exclusive to Saks but their website currently says "Sorry, this item is no longer available online."
1. For a brief discussion of Guerlinade, see the review of the Guerlinade fragrance.
Great review Robin. I wonder if they had used a deeper musk with the clean patchouli base and left out the first three notes you had mentioned if it wouldn’t smell as young to you? I can see where the reference to Pleasures comes into play.
Perhaps, but I didn’t mean “young” as a criticism.
Hmmm. Well, going in with eyes wide open, perhaps I’ll be able to appreciate it for what it is and not lament what it isn’t. It might just be the ‘pretty floral’ that will work with my chemistry that I’ve been hunting down. Maybe? Worth a try. The bottle is cool. [ I think we had varying opinions about that when the scent was introduced if I remember correctly.]
Many people thought it looked like CK Secret Obsession, and it does, sort of — but it doesn’t look at all like a copy to me. Anyway, it’s a pretty scent and worth a shot if you can find it.
Yes, I re-read that piece and there were comparisons to the CK SO bottle, a giant Hershey’s Kiss and a garlic bulb. LOL
I’ve got it! It looks like a bicycle seat! LOL
Hey, it really does! You’ve nailed it.
But I do think it’s a pretty bottle, at least in pictures — I have not seen it in person.
I haven’t seen it in person either, I’m not sure It was in any of the stores I’ve been in or I just missed it.
I saw the bottle down at Saks, and the bottle was pretty, but the lid was a cheap nasty plastic thing.
It’s not a bad bottle at all (I handled it in Saks). I’d like to see the 30ml size. The center is sort of clear, showing the juice (that might not come across well in photos).
Angie, it’s always the cap that ruins everything.
Then I’ll be ole grumpy-pants who thinks the bottle is awful. I only saw a larger size (50ml? 75? 100?) and thought it awfully plastic, clunky and hard to handle. I infinitely prefer the Secret Obsession one.
Is the gold part on the sides plastic too?
I tried this in Tenerife. I think it’s really nice. it smells of christmas.
though I’m not sure if it suits me. I want my mum to try it.
and Robin, I honestly don’t know if the side of bottle it plastic or not, I didn’t pay attention.
the bottle is a little hard to pick up and I was scared of dropping it and is a bit hard to hold. but really I think everything else about the bottle is nice, even the cap.
Thanks Owen!
“Floral mist” sounds pretty good to me – although I’m not really in the market for another one of those, which is probably the case for many of us commenters.
Like Dolly up there, I’m wondering what it would have been like with a stronger base – except I’m thinking, “Well, why NOT use the Guerlinade underneath?” since I’m a fan of that stuff, sweet+a little dirty.
It doesn’t sell. After Insolence, which I really don’t think sold to expectations, I’ll be surprised if we ever see it again.
Doesn’t sell?!? The Guerlinade doesn’t sell?!? Oh Robin, run a dagger through my heart.
*The Guerlie Girl goes away to stick her nose back into the vintage Mitsouko bottle*
Forgot to say – good review – thanks!
Well, I’ll qualify that by saying “doesn’t sell to the young”, and that’s who they’re all after, right?
And she twists the dagger by implying I’m old! Arrrrggggghhhh!!!
Just kidding… I’m at the office with way too much to do to be on here! But it’s so much more fun. Marketing peeps are definitely after the young, especially in malls/dept. stores.
LOL! I did not mean that at all. We know there’s a 15 year old out there, somewhere, that loves Shalimar, right? But you’re not going to sell it by the vat to young people, and yeah, that’s all they want: something that will sell by the vat to young people. It was interesting to me that when people interviewed Wasser about Idylle, the scent he mentioned over & over was not a classic Guerlain but Dior J’Adore. They all want a big hit.
I was waiting for that comment to hit the fan….was counting down….4..3..2..1…ZOT
Daisy – ROTFL!
Insolence had Guerlinade?!?
Well, I’m not surprised I didn’t notice. Too many shrieking parrots and blaring car alarms in that one, if you ask me. I will now follow the Thumper rule and shut up…
And I guess I also shouldn’t be surprised that Guerlinade doesn’t sell these days.
Insolence reminded me of Apres L’Ondee. Other people said L’Heure Bleue, but I’d say same difference…they’re all related.
I think I’m one of the few who really liked “Insolence”, even though I doubt I’d ever wear it regularly. Yes, it’s very flashy and artificial in a “Givenchy” sort of way (smelling of ground-up, sugared violets and rasberries mixed with benzoin and sandal resin), but I wouldn’t have minded if they’d stayed in that direction (with a few tweaks).
I liked it too, & I’d wear it if somebody gave me some…in fact, guessing I’d wear it more than Idylle.
Oh! And “Happy Birthday”, Robin!
Really? Insolence and Apres L’Ondee? Wow, I didn’t get that all. I appreciated the noisiness of Insolence because noisy perfumes have a time and place and at least you can’t miss it, but L’Ondee which I SO wanted to love after reading about it here and elsewhere, wasn’t noisy at all. In fact, on my skin, it was so quiet, I asked it ‘where did you go, pretty perfume, you were here in a whimsy way 5 minutes ago?’
It’s true, Apres L’Ondee is very quiet, and they’re quite different in style.
I really, really wanted to like this, but found it too sweet and fruity. Didn’t even get the comparisons with Lovely and NR for Her as they seem to have an airy quality to them by comparison, the way Sensuous does (though it is sweet too). Idylle was more like a regular fruity floral to my nose, though I know it isn’t. I should try it again…
Interesting — it does not smell like a fruity floral to me at all. I’m not in love with it either though. It’s nicely done and think it’s miles & away better than many of this year’s mainstream florals, but I’m not dying to have a bottle.
I’m with you. I found Idylle sweet and a bit cloying, so I don’t get the Lovely and Pleasures comparisons either. I know Lovely very well (it’s a permanent fixture on my dressing table) and Pleasures to an extent also. But I thought Idylle was pretty, and worth another go. It was released in Australia (in DJs) about a month ago. As Angela says, the plastic cap is rather nasty. And the bottle hard to hold. Nice looking in the counter, but up close, not so great.
annemarie, you’re in Australia?? I am so stoked, I thought I was alone in this great big country in my love of perfumes! Glad to see you here
Yep, and I’m not the only one. Chatting on this forum I once had an exchange with a perfume lover from my home city who had grown up visiting the same perfumery as me. Good fun.
I loved it on paper, but didn’t try it on skin and was unable to score a sample. I’m not really in the market for a pretty floral, as I have several of those, but I might give it a squirt the next time that I’m in Saks.
On paper it stays very bright & happy for longer than it does on skin…on skin, I found it more musky than I expected. Very curious why Saks has taken it off their website though…maybe they’ve just run out.
That’s good to know – I have the bright, happy florals, but a musky one might be in order.
Hey, babe! Happy Birthday!
So, is Idylle special enough to wear on your birthday? I’m thinking not, but I must admit I sort of like that bottle.
Hugs and love!
Hey, thanks! But I hate it when people remember my birthday because I can never remember anyone else’s…uh, maybe because I’m so OLD? LOL…
Oh, please. It’s fine with me if you forget mine altogether…I’m trying to forget it, too!
Question: Did you like Prada L’Eau Ambree? Will you be doing a review on it? Octavian and Denyse love it, but I would love to get your opinion, too, since you are my best perfume blogging/MUA posting buddy.
I like it, R, and way more than this one: I’d like to have a bottle. I reviewed it here:
https://nstperfume.com/2009/09/25/prada-leau-ambree-perfume-review/
I’m hoping I run across it at a good discount somewhere.
Drat. I’m supposed to know when your birthday is, aren’t I? Whatever happened to that darned Birthday Bunny page at MUA, anyway??
Ooh, thanks, babe! How did I miss it? I will read it right now.
And I’ll keep that little date to myself, heh, heh!
HAPPY, HAPPY BIRTHDAY DEAR BLOG MISTRESS!
Thank you
Happy birthday Robin! Unless someone shares a birthday with someone I knew in high school or earlier, I won’t remember either…too much mental clutter by now. Either November is a very heavily populated month, or I’m pulled toward people with November birthdays…knew 3 people yesterday, you’re #3 for today, and 2 later this week, plus half a dozen family birthdays this month as well… and probably some I don’t know or have forgotten.
You would think that with modern technology I’d do a better job, but it’s the opposite. I forget everyone’s birthday now. Sigh.
Mid Nov. is nine months from mid-Feb./Valentine’s Day.
HA! got to watch that romancin’ **wink wink***
Sometimes I like something pretty and uncomplicated – sounds worth a try. Although when I am at the Guerlain counter there is so much cool stuff to try I might forget about it! lol
My local Guerlain counter is so sparsely stocked that I don’t have that problem.
I am sooo lucky (or maybe NOT) to have a real boutique in my NM. I do need to see if they ever have the Insolence EdP though. You know, I think I kept getting Insolence mixed up with Irresistible and I don’t know now if I ever actually smelled it.
My NM told me the EdP was not coming to the US, but they’re frequently misinformed so I do not take that seriously.
And Happy Birthday!!
Happy birthday Robin!
I must say, I’m a newbie here (I’d say a month or so) and I really enjoy dropping by to see what’s new and what people are saying. Great stuff!
Thanks lsnuing!
Nice review, Robin. For whatever reason, I’m glad you’re not disappointed with this. I think it’s a nice, well done “floral mist”, as you say. I need to test it on skin again (just ordered some spray samples from the bay… easy), but I remember thinking that it was a nice, well done floral. As you say, more “springtime cheerful” than my idea of “sexy.” This won’t astound any “hardcore perfumista” with its complexity and depth, but it smells pretty great. It does feel somehow “young” and of-the-moment, but I think I’d be just as happy to wear this as I would MDCI Coeur en Mai (similar in vibe to me)… for a fraction of the price. It’s definitely a little bit too “floral/girly” for me, but I actually like rocking that kind of scent once in awhile, silly as it may sound.
I’ve never tried Insolence (or L’Instant for that matter), and you have made me want to.
Oh, and Happy Birthday, apparently! Have a great one!
Insolence is a weird scent…almost strikes me as tongue-in-cheek, as though Maurice Roucel was having a little laugh at everybody who said L’Instant wasn’t “Guerlain” enough. I’ve still never tried (or even laid eyes on) the EdP version.
This one is definitely girly in the early stages, but in a more elegant way than many recent girly florals.
And thanks!
Happy Birthday Robin!
Although I think they both smell similar, the EdP version of Isolence is “darker” and “bigger” than the EdP.
Oops, I meant to say the the EdP version of Insolence is darker and bigger than the EdT.
I figured…I should look harder for it, I’d like to smell it.
I like Insolence (and even L’Instant, sometimes, too…)
Oh, and, Happy Birthday, Robin!
Thank you! I think Insolence was in many ways a really great scent, and kind of risky — sort of odd that Guerlain released it as a pillar at all, in some ways.
Im Sommerwind- Idyll, is a very early piece of the 12-tonemusic composer Anthon Webern. He wrote it when he was young and before he succumbed to the 12-tone-music techniques, where music gets abstract and incomprehensive for the broad public . It’s a lovely roman tic and fresh melancholic piece for orchestra. But why do I say all that??? That was the reason that I had to try Idylle when I saw it! It is a lovely perfume, the first thing I thought was: This is “For Her” but much much better. It smells quite similar but les artificial, with a sweet fading away accent. Luckily I could resist buying it!!!!( I feel very heroic when it happens
) But I cann’t help it to think tenderly of Webern and his Idyll everytime I see the perfume.
Thanks for the background! I can’t smell NR For Her, it makes my throat close up, but have heard other people say that this one is better done. It’s certainly done with better materials than SJP Lovely.
To me this one smelled just like NR For Her, however only compared them in the drydown, as for quality, I cannot discern as yet but the Idylle is more expensive to buy.
If I recall correctly (we had to listen to Webern for Music History in college – oh… a couple decades ago…), Webern’s entire lifetime output wouldn’t be long enough to fill a modern CD – the ultimate creator of bareboned, highly efficient compositions! Granted, I also recall he lived a short life, but I think he had written all he felt there was to write? Funny I seem to recall hearing this piece at an orchestra concert.
Anyway – enough about serialism in music. We’re here to talk about the direction of the future of what was once my beloved Guerlain. I hope it sells, even if I don’t like what LVMH has done to the company’s image.
Oh, and by the way, Happy Birthday Robin!
Thank you!
LVMH bought Guerlain in 1994. I have no great love for LVMH but I think you could argue that whatever Guerlain’s image is now, it isn’t necessarily because of LVMH…you know?
I guess you’re right. There is still the “Guerlain Management Team” – but no doubt they are nudged a bit by the holder of the big LVMH umbrella. I didn’t become formally acquainted with Guerlain until 1994 (i.e., first purchase) but the change did not occur immediately – at least nothing significant. For me, it started about 4 years down the road when I began to see signs I didn’t like. Then JPG officially retired… *Sigh*
Happy birthday, Robin! Many more years of happy sniffing!
Thanks!
HAPPY BIRTHDAY ROBIN !!!
(the cat is sooo out of the bag!)
It’s your birthday Robin? Happy Birthday! I ate a mini Mr. Big chocolate bar in your honor.
Oh, but if it’s in my honor you must eat two of them, or maybe three
I only had one left lol How about a Caramilk or Reeses?
*swimming in leftover halloween candy*
HA…me too! I’ve got mixed Hershey’s miniatures to last me for the rest of the year.
I think I can do that! Happily peeling the wrapping off a chocolate bar as I type. Happy birthday Robin!
I am open to trying it, if it stays musky it might have a chance. But then I’m a big fan of Guerlinade-sweet and musky/dirty.
Oh good, glad to see everyone downing chocolate!
This is not dirty, or at least, not to me. I know some people find even cleaned-up patch “dirty”, but I don’t. Maybe it all depends on your tolerance for dirt.
Ah. See, this is kind of the opposite review of your muguet lament–really figuring out how to review the scent on it’s own terms while still acknowledging the past. Excellent. (And I liked both of them–just been thinking, for myself, how to get out of the position of being permanently nostalgic…) Also like your exposition of the base as a deliberate marker of “department store perfume.” I do think people unconsciously come to expect a certain common scent that says “grown up” or “sexy” or what have you — a certain “vibe.”
A, I don’t think so….this one doesn’t smell like functional products, and if it did, it would get the same scorn from me that VCA MB did. I don’t think expensive perfume should smell like Glade, and in general I think it’s bad for the industry when it does, even if it sells: they’re shooting themselves in the foot, just as they are w/ the # of releases.
So the scorn is not *just* about nostalgia, although it’s certainly that too.
I had to go back and read your review of MB again because I didn’t think that it was all that scornful, but maybe I was wrong. You did say that it was beautiful and breathtaking, just too clean for you to consider it joyous. I thought that it was a balanced review – you recognized what you liked about it and what others might like and told what, in you opinion, was missing. But that’s just me… now, of course, I’m torn between searching out vintage Diorissimo to smell it and letting sleeping dogs lie so I don’t lament its passing.
Oh, I’d say there was some scorn, and definitely some commenters thought it was overboard. I thought I let MB off easy, LOL…
I think you’re a very balanced reviewer for what it’s worth. You’re certainly entitled to your opinion here and your “scorn” always seems either tongue in cheek or tilting at the conglomerate windmills.
Thanks Rappleyea.
Oh, good grief, woman, it’s your own blog. Where else are you going to tell people what you really think?
I actually thought the MB post was a very evenhanded review, and it was only in the comments that I started to see a little of the passion that is, surely, the reason you are indeed our Revered Blogmistress. And THAT was fascinating!
*happy birthday, dear Robin…*
Interesting — like CynthiaW I guess I was focusing more on your “it’s breathtaking, but not human” lament than the “it smells like a high end cleaning product” scorn (your word, not mine–I didn’t find that review scornful at all). Here, instead of comparing Idylle to it’s ancestors you’re defending it from those expectations (“poor thing”). I’ve just been thinking a lot about this kind of thing–how to know and love things on their own terms, whether that’s possible, or even desirable–and of all the folks I read your reviews are the most consistently evenhanded, so it makes sense to me that you would find a way out of the nostalgia trap. (Sometimes you’re so diplomatic I have to re-read to tell how you felt about it!)
All of which is to say — I meant it as a compliment!
And I’m very glad, along with everyone else on here, that you were born, R!
And, uh, doing my part on the chocolate front, too! Lindt, dark with almonds…
Yum! I just had TWO slices of very nice cake. I might be all chocolated out now.
Happy birthday and many happy (sniffing) returns Robin!
As for Idylle, I’ll give it a sniff, but I have to admit that your description of Insolence as “Apres L’Ondee with nail polish remover” sounded a little more interesting than “floral mist”. (Maybe I’m just being bratty though. I’ve gotten my hands on some OJ Woman for the first time and it’s ruined me forever).
Yeah, but “floral mist” is easier to live with, LOL…but I hear you on the OJ.
And thanks!
Sorry Sweetlife! I didn’t mean to post as a response to your comment. But I do agree with your idea. If we all tend to agree on what’s considered sexy or beautiful physically, I can’t see why that rule wouldn’t extend to the realm of scent as well.
As soon as your review came up I scrambled to the perfume cabinet to retrieve my sample…..luckily I was not injured in the cascade of random vials and an now sniffing and reading….and well, obviously: typing.
In a blind sniff test–I’d never have guessed this to be a Guerlain. It’s a pretty department store floral. 15 minutes in and it’s still all about LOTV, but the heavy waxy note I usually get from LOTV is beginning to soften into something vaguely sweet and fruity, but just a bit wafting about the lilies. There’s some white musk down there somewhere, maybe it’ll be a little more evident in antoher 15 minutes or so. Idylle doesn’t have that spring/green/sparkle that Debut has and I really see the relationship to Pleasures, but less “musty”….and Pleasures was plenty musty on my skin (blech). The bottle is pretty on the sample card, haven’t seen it in person….but I hate it when they ruin the effect with a cheap plastic top (give me that ROCK that’s on top of the Natori bottle! There’s a cool top!) .
In the end, I’d agree with Robin: Idylle is pretty, but not terribly unique, not earth shattering at all and if a bottle fell into my lap; I’d share it with all my friends because I’d probably wear it once or twice in a season…but I wouldn’t go buy a bottle.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts Daisy. I am curious to give this a sniff if I come across it.
Hi Rustic, I find I’m not really a “floral” girl. I thought I was…but when I look in my perfume cabinet I see more woody spicy orientals than anything else. Wood Pudding has become my mantra. Plus I find that most LOTV scents don’t get along with my sinuses. I’ve had this small spritz of Idylle on my arm for not quite an hour(?) and it’s now very light, getting sweeter, but still mostly LOTV. But I should say that it does NOT have that strange skreetchy synthetic note that most department store perfumes have, that blooms on my skin like an evil miasma….if you are looking for a nice spring/summer floral this would definitely be worth the effort to sniff.
Thanks for more of your POV Daisy. I have the same issues w/’Floral” fragrances. I really seem to go for, well, many differnet things – like, woody, spicy, incensy, warm types of scents. I’ve been determined though, to find a pretty floral that doesn’t get all insipid on me. Just for the principle of the thing – you know? I feel like I SHOULD have at least one floral bouquet perfume to love. [Now, perfumes that feature rose, jasmine or iris, florals that have ‘attitude’ or seem to be a little darker maybe? I tend to like those.]
Hmm… well, I’ll probably sniff when I see it, but it looks like I won’t go out of my way to find it. Especially since my bottle of Debut is racing its way towards me as we speak and is supposed to arrive on Thursday. Yay!
Lucky you!
Thanks Daisy.
Awww, and you said you didn’t go into note details…. I see you were mistaken.
Nice mini-review there!
I did my best to avoid my usual “ewww” or “yumm” type response, just to show that I know other words.
When the bottle was first shown on websites and blogs, so many months ago, controversy erupted about the similarity to CK SO, but now that we are able to see it in three dimensions, the bottle is only very slightly reminiscent of SO. And so what? There are only so many geometric forms in the universe that are capable of holding a liquid efficiently. I have the bottle and its miniature in my possession and I must say they are quite lovely. Yes, caps can be a problem but it all harks back to weight and shipping costs, I believe. Surely if a perfume is produced, it will have a glass lid. It is interesting that an extrait was not produced at this time. If Idylle is to be the next Shalimar as a pillar fragrance, perhaps EDT and body products are next. I can envision a Swarovski crystal where the lid’s logo meets the glass, in the future, perhaps as an anniversary edition or a deluxe perfume. As for the juice, it’s nice and girly. Insolence is girly too but it made me appreciate L’Instant so much more for its modernity and depth. The bottom line is that these three are not Guerlains in the old way that everyone expects because they’re not by a “blood” Guerlain! Until there is one in the lineage again to be the nose, we need to accept that perfume is evolving almost in the same way that language changes, and it’s not always for the better. L’Instant, Insolence and Idylle are perfectly fine; they’re for a new age and millenium.
So agree: if you’re going to do 1500+ new bottles a year, they’re going to start looking the same. Doesn’t matter to me much.
Happy birthday dearest Robin!!!!
Thank you so much!
Seems like a lot of scents these days that are going for “sexy” end up smelling just pretty or cheerful instead — that’s how I feel about YSL Parisienne (which I actually like quite a bit). I do like both Lovely and Pleasures, though, so I imagine I might like this too.
Just saw from the other comments that it’s your birthday — have a wonderful one!
Yes. Again, I think it all depends on your tolerance for skank/dirt notes. By comparison to modern fruity florals, this (and Parisienne even more) are probably pretty sexy. By comparison to older scents, they’re too clean to be sexy.
And thanks!
Hope you’re having a very happy birthday Robin! I’m glad someone let us in that little tidbit. I am going to have a cup of tea in your honor.
Oh, do! I’m drinking Mariage Freres Lune Rouge (green tea, rose petals, some other stuff), it’s very nice for an afternoon tea.
That sounds absolutely awesome.
Have a wonderful birthday Robin!
I liked Idylle well enough, although I found it strikingly feminine and entirely unwearable for me. But that fascinating sweet/sour/floral/tangy fruit thing it does, about 30 minutes after it’s on skin, is fascinating. If one could just capture that accord (maybe that’s the floral mist?) and bottle it, I’d buy it in an instant!
Thanks!
It is very feminine, even girly, and probably harder for a man to pull off than Insolence. The floral heart really is pretty though, and you’re right, more so once it softens.
Well, happy birthday!! I loved your review and will give Idylle another try: I’m not much into floral mists, or musks for what matters, but I know some perfumes just click, against all odds. As a proof, I’m wearing *your* VC&A Bd’I and I am thinking I need a bottle. And also the TDC one. And I was sure iris was a deal breaker, can you imagine? Well, this is one of the many reasons I love your blog!!! Buon Compleanno!!
Oh, so glad you are coming around to iris! But it will cost you, LOL…
And thanks
Happy happy Birthday Robin!
As a b-day question: if the Perfume God could bring you a bottle of any fragrance ever created, what would you ask for?
Diorissimo extrait, in it’s original form. That’s probably a heretical answer, but it would make me happiest.
Happy Birthday, dear Robin!
Thanks so much
That is a great answer. Last night I finally opened the bottle I purchased several months ago and gave it a whirl. Fortunately, it doesn’t smell any different than the bottle I bought a year or so ago, although neither is as good as an older bottle I still have. But it still smells good, especially after the first few minutes. But I would LOVE to smell the extrait as it existed in, say, 1957.
So glad your bottle turned out ok!!
IMHO Insolence EdP is much, much better than the EdT–the EdP to me speaks in the idiom of Angel with a touch of lush floral similar to Poême (Turin attributes the effect to the chrysanthemum-like effect if I recall correctly). I also like the bottle better, too.
As for the market performance of L’Instant I believe the Guerlain former President and (former) CEO Renato Semerari mentioned in 2006 that although L’Instant has fulfilled its role well it worked better where the company “had more Guerlain fans—France and Russia” and it did not “do as well in the US”.
According to WWD a few weeks ago Idylle was #1 in France at least for the first 2 weeks of its release. I’ve tried it and to me given its market objective the juice has fulfilled its purpose. It’s different enough from the original Narciso Rodriguez For Her (the musk bases are different: Idylle uses a new one with a light cotton effect), though I do agree that it draws references from other composition. Still, given the current economic downturn and the prospect of the house I’m can see why it would be executed so. Unfortuantely the only deterrence is actually the packaging–I know you don’t care for it but the current material used for the boxes are quite thin and catches some fingerprints very easily. Plus with the shape of the bottle and minimal internal support the bottle lively spins to and pro when I gave the box a quick shake. It’s not a big deal (and I’m sure the savings add up for LVMH) but that’s my two cents.
Anyhow, happy birthday!
PS. Above-mentioned quotes taken from Cosmeticnews.com
Thanks! I am sure the Guerlain name does not hold the same weight here as it does in France, and of course Guerlain is not so well distributed here anyway…Idylle certainly has not had the chance to be #1 here yet since it’s hardly possible to buy it.
Mitsouko and Shalimar- I wish I could understand these frangrances, but one smells like fish oil and the other like baby powder. I do not want to offend fans, I am genuine, I purchased mini bottles of both and I tried them many many times, but could not find the appeal. Perhaps they were wow when created, but as time goes by and tastes change, they are only an interesting reminder of the past. Like a Ford T, amusing to see one, but would you drive one? I would prefer a Toyota Corolla, even though every second person has one. Idylle-I am very keen to try.
There are many, many people here who wear both, so no, not in the least offended that you don’t like them, but they’re not at all like a Model T in that sense! More like “living history”
But do hope you’ll like Idylle.
LOL. Trying to figure out which one is fish oil, and I’m guessing Shalimar since that’s the one I don’t much like.
Funny, I can see that wowzer of an opening in Mitsouko getting the fishy nod.
Oh yeah — Shalimar is totally the baby powder!
But — @sniffmeallover–I didn’t “get” Mitsouko until a couple years into my sniffing, and only then when I happened to get ahold of some vintage parfum. Then, weirdly, I could go backwards and understand that “shape” in the more modern versions. Same with Shalimar. So, y’know, never say never, but you’re surely not alone!
Fish oil – I’m guessing that it’s Mitsy which means Shalimar is the powder? I haven’t yet managed to open my sample of Shalimar. It’s in one of those dabber glass vials and the dabber is damned stubborn! I do like powder, I find it comforting so will persist in my efforts.
And I’m with you, I don’t understand Mitsy either. I try and try, every time I drop by the Guerlain counter I make sure to have a sniff and wait for the angels to sing … but alas, nada.
I tried it the other day at the local Saks (I think I wrote this elsewhere already) but I believed my comment was that it was rather pedestrian. I remember thinking, I can’t believe the same company that made such classic like Shalimar and Vol de Nuit made this.
Too much of the Lovely, not enough inspiration.
Yes, but it’s also the same company that made Lovely Cherry Blossom Gold Sparkles
They certainly have made some strange moves since being bought by LVMH. It’s not even just the comparison to old classics, either – I was wearing my Attrape Couer sample the other day (and daydreaming about the decant speeding my way) when I was struck by the dichotomy of the same company making something as beautiful as AC also making some of the uninspired, mainstream stuff (as well as utter dreck like My Insolence – speaking of which, does anyone want a barely used mini of My Insolence?) that they do today.
How is it even possible that some of these scents come out of the same company? I know that we’ve discussed this before, but Chanel seems to have done a much better job of honoring and protecting their classics, put out new stuff that is still great, and still produce some good stuff aimed at the younger market that isn’t embarrassing. While Guerlain still puts out some decent new stuff, they also put out a lot of LE stuff in expensive bottles that doesn’t even sound especially good.
I’d argue that Chanel has made some dreck too…but Chanel doesn’t release the # of new perfumes that Guerlain does, so they don’t end up releasing quite so much dreck. And yes, that allows them to guard their heritage better. Guerlain seems lost at the moment; their releases seem almost random, like they’re just throwing stuff against the wall to see what will stick.
That’s a good way to put it – it’s as if the family is no longer producing the same quality of perfumer as the previous generation, so they have to go hire someone who is a fantastic nose… but then they don’t let him or her do their job.
I can’t argue that Chanel *hasn’t* produced any dreck because I haven’t smelled all of it – and some of the stuff that other people think is dreck (like Chance), I actually like.
Great review – I loved this when I smelled it, there’s something really elegant about it – sort of like a restrained warmth. Funny you mention YSL Elle, because that’s my other favorite fragrance. I suppose I like a certain type
Yes, good way of putting it! I like my warmth a little less restrained, I guess.
Yes so do I that’s why I can’t bring myself to buy it. Too restrained for everyday wear!
Happy Birthday Robin!
Thanks Carlos!
first of all, happy birthday, robin!!
i have a mini, and i may end up having to get a 30 ml bottle!
i liked your review of idylle. it’s a weird perfume: it’s so simple, not very one-of-a-kind and not complex at all, but at the same time i can’t help wanting to smell it often…i don’t understand!
anyway, have a wonderful start of your personal new year!
lots of love from argentina! cheers!
*the perfume is not weird at all…the strange thing is finding myself slightly addicted to its simplicty
(in case i didn’t explain myself too well)
It’s very pretty! We don’t get enough pretty, so it’s easy to see why someone would find it addictive. And thanks for the kind wishes!
Hi, Robin — I’ve been out all day and was delighted to come home to your review.
1) I bought a bottle, so you know I like it.
2) I still feel, pretty as it is, that it’s a bit of a waste of Thierry Wasser’s talents. It’ll probably sell well, though — why shouldn’t it?
3) Curious, because I don’t think you say — the lasting power was astonishing on me. 48+ hours. How about for you?
It’s an interesting question: how many perfumers really end up doing work that is worthy of their talents? I’d guess not many. I’m sure being house perfumer at Guerlain is a very prestigious job, but it strikes me as a thankless task: too much to live up to, but your hands are tied behind your back.
And yes, the lasting power is phenomenal — it’s one of those scents where I start to wonder how much musk is ending up in my bloodstream, LOL…
Happy birthday, robin! I already have, or have designs on, several pretty florals and don’t see the urgent need to try this. If it’s available the next time I’m perusing the counters, I’ll give it a go at least.
As someone who actually really liked Insolence (I’m getting the edp as a gift for my daughter this year) as well as L’Instant for its almost honey-like beauty, I just try to think of these and Mitsouko/Shalimar as different facets of the jewel that’s Guerlain. Some are deeper and more intriguing than others, but as a collective body of work, Guerlain still has a lot of stunning releases I’m truly in love with, both in the modern and classic categories.
That’s a good way of looking at it!
By my time zone — Pacific Standard — it’s 7:45 pm, R, and I can still wish you a Happy Birthday without having to tack on a “belated.”
I love your way of phrasing it whenever you write, “I’d happily wear it if a bottle fell from the sky” or words to that effect. I understand exactly what you mean, and nothing else says it so perfectly. And so —
I’d happily wear Idylle if a bottle fell from the sky.
P.S. Meaning to say, if a bottle of it didn’t fall from the sky, I’d happily wear something else.
LOL…yeah, I know how that works! I’m trying to decide…I’d certainly wear it, it’s pretty enough. But have a feeling I’d rarely reach for it, just because I have so many gorgeous florals with more oomph than this one. Insolence I think I’d wear every so often.
Actually, can visualize some interesting flankers for this one…and guessing we’ll get some!
Hey we have the same Birthday-Happy Birthday-even though it was yesterday for me, over here! Also, I imagine, we are a similar age-but Im not saying!
I’m not saying either, LOL…but hope you had a great birthday!
wanna try !!!!!!!
woot : )
Hope you’ll like it
Well Robin..Happy birthday to you, happy birthday to you, happy birthday dear Robin..happy birthday to you. Hope you enjoyed all your caked and chocolate…we did..my eldest son turned 18 on 09 and we had loooots of cake, chocolate with white icing and loads of sprinkles!!
Now, my SOTD for the first time is DIORISSIMO…and that must be in your honour. as I have never liked (dont getmad at me) the…wait for it…lily of the valley (phew saved) and u know what….i really have come around..and i really like it…although it is not a very old bottle….help me in the future!!
I did test idylle and mostly i kept looking for the person around me wearing a lighter version of NR for her…much less cloying, but there was something in the drydown that had me sniffing deep into my wrist..i felt there was a fresh contrast in there…sorry, i cannot really explain what i smelled, but it was good. i don’t need this one and my friend the saleslady told me that the bottle is actually
AN UPSIDE DOWN HIGH HEEL …which definately looks better in the smaller bottle…
so, robin…have a great year
Oh, 18, that is so exciting! A very happy belated birthday to your son. And so glad you’re enjoying Diorissimo, it needs more fans, poor old thing.
I’ve heard the upside down high heel too. This is a bottle with too many inspirations!
I had a spray of this when it was just launched in Adelaide and I liked it on the card. I definitely get the floral thing. I am just scared of the patchouli, all the others I’ve bought with patchouli just went uber-skank on my skin.
But after reading this review I will gather up my courage and spray some on my skin the next time I’m in the mall after this heatwave breaks!
It isn’t skanky to me in the least, but of course that all depends on your taste. Do let me know if it’s too much for you!
A very happy belated birthday to you Robin! Here’s to hoping you received many fragrant gifts as a celebration of the day. I wish you many happy returns of the day.
I tested Idylle. I liked the bottle…it’s much nicer in person as opposed to a photograph. The juice however…if you have NR you don’t need this. I am slightly annoyed at just how similar it is as I had hopes for this one being unique. With all the expertise the perfumers at Guerlain have, could they not have concocted a more unique fragrance rather than just another ‘been there done that’ clone? A refreshing change is the lack of aldehydes many of the Guerlain frags possess. That being said, if you don’t have NR or even SJP, I’d buy Idylle as it possesses a slightly nicer drydown.
Thank you! And so glad to hear it’s nicer in person, usually it’s the other way around.
I think Guerlain is saving “unique” for the limited editions, although I don’t think those have been terribly unique lately either.
Happy birthday from Guam, Robin!
I have been a reader of your blog for a year or so, and I would like to use the occasion to THANK YOU SO MUCH for the time and thought you put into it. You have a great company here, and it is always a pleasure to read the reviews and the comments. Let that original Diorissimo extrait fall in you lap one of these days!
Thank you, that’s very kind!
Yep, when I sprayed it on I thought “oh well.. the bottom has a bottom!”. It is such clone to SPJ Lovely! “Nice”.
I did like it better than Lovely though.
Oh man, I wasn’t particularly interested in Idylle, so I thought I’d save myself some time yesterday by not reading through the comments, and I wound up missing the most important news of all — your birthday! That’ll teach me not to leave one scintilla of NST unread… I hope you had a great day!
Oh, thanks so much!! And surely now you can go back to skipping articles you don’t care about
Insolence is getting more successful with the years (in Europe at least). Maybe it’s because its strong sillage but I smell it constantly on the streets here in Brussels but even more during my last Paris trip.
Idylle seams to do well also, though the biggest blockbuster this year in Europe is YSL’s Parisienne.
Glad to hear it, thanks!
I finally got a sniff of it. It reminds me of Lovely from Sarah Jessica Parker.
That seems to be the consensus.
That is true. But as some already have written, it is a little softer as Lovely. I would pick up Lovely over Narciso Rodriguez for her, and Guerlain Idylle over Lovely.
No I don’t like Idylle at all but as usual the bottle’s nice.
Oh well! Plenty of other fish in the sea.
I’m with Robin on this, I think it’s a very pretty perfume. Whilst it might be the perfumista’s lament that there’s no Guerlainade base, it’s actually a very lovely (no pun intended) perfume.
I would happily buy this for my girlfriend because, knowing her skin type she would smell delicious with it on.
Some of the sniffy comments here remind me of the reaction Coco Mademoiselle received when that came out, before it went on to be one of Chanel’s biggest hits in years. I also think that’s a lovely perfume, feminine, sexy and very few women can’t wear it well.
Mind you having said all that, my girlfriend has the remarkable ability to wear L’Anarchiste and make it smell fantastically beautiful, honestly, the transformation on her skin is quite extraordinary.
True, but even though Coco Mademoiselle is a huge seller, I don’t think anyone thinks it’s a masterpiece in any artistic sense. At any rate, not everything can be a masterpiece, right?