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Perfume: the best of 2016

Posted by Robin on 30 December 2016 106 Comments

Bottles & Reflections (Revised)

Every year the fragrance industry's output grows more prodigious, and every year, I try fewer new fragrances. In 2016, I outdid myself (and so, presumably, did they, although I have not yet seen any official numbers for the year's releases). I could not tell you if it was a good year, or a bad year, or a so-so year, for perfume. It seems like I found fewer fantastic new scents than usual, but maybe I just directed my sampling poorly (and quite a few of the fragrances chosen as this year's best by Now Smell This contributors are fragrances I missed entirely).

My choices are just below. Scroll down to see what Angela, Erin, Jessica and Kevin thought was noteworthy in 2016, or click over to Bois de Jasmin, Grain de Musc, Perfume Posse or The Non-Blonde for more opinions. And of course, do add your own thoughts in the comments!

My favorite niche fragrance of 2016: I did not think it was a stellar year for niche fragrance. L'Artisan Bucoliques de Provence was a late breaking (for me) favorite. Vilhelm Parfumerie's Purple Fig was great fun in a year where fun was conspicuously missing from niche.

Best mainstream: A tie between Hermès Eau de Néroli Doré (which I love) and Galop d'Hermès (which I admire), although I would not have expected either to be the best of the year when I smelled them. 

Best flanker: Thierry Mugler Angel Muse

Best indie: It was a very good year for indie, and it was hard to narrow down my choices. My own favorites were Tauer Perfumes Lonesome Rider and Hiram Green Dilettante, with a shout out to Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Kaleidoscope, which made me smile all through the late summer and early fall.

Did what it was supposed to do: Boy Chanel, Diptyque Eau des Sens, Tauerville Fruitchouli Flash, Narciso Poudrée by Narciso Rodriguez, Hermès Muguet Porcelaine, McQueen Eau de Parfum by Alexander McQueen, Maison Francis Kurkdjian Petit Matin

Didn't: Kenzo World

Bargain body product of the year: Tauer Perfumes Rose Delight Body Oil

Favorite 2014 fragrance I did not smell until 2016: April Aromatics Ray of Light

I've already forgotten what it smells like: La Femme Prada

Best perfume commercial of 2016: Kenzo World

Writhing is so 2015: I also liked the spots for La Femme Prada and Galop d'Hermès

But some things never change: The Versace Pour Homme Dylan Blue extravaganza.

Best packaging: A tie between Starck Paris Peau de Soie, Peau d’Ailleurs & Peau de Pierre and Xinú Aguamadera, Copála & OroNardo

Collector bottle I'd kill for: The Guerlain Mitsouko edition from Arita Porcelain Lab

Clive Christian award for aspirational pricing: The Guerlain Four Seasons collection

Perfumer of the year: Christine Nagel. Her debut fragrances as the house perfumer at Hermès should have eased any worries about the direction the house will take after the departure of Jean-Claude Ellena, and I'll add a belated thank you to Ms. Nagel for Fendi Theorema, which has given me so much enjoyment over the years.

Angela

Perfumes I’d buy if I had the cash and weren’t already swimming in scent

Amouage Myths Woman and Masque Milano Romanza: These fragrances taught me that I adore the syrup sweetness and ashiness of narcissus absolute. To me, both fragrances are black-and-white movies featuring moody starlets and layers of atmosphere. I must have one of them in my collection eventually, but which one? What a terrific dilemma to ponder.

Arquiste Ella: Ella is the ideal combination of elegance and trash. It’s a classic chypre plunged into Studio 54.

Hiram Green Arbolé Arbolé: Here is an ideal everyday scent for me. It’s easy, interesting, warm, and friendly. A no-brainer.

Favorite new vintage scent

Ciro Danger: I love this one for its unconventional structure of leathery rose with lavender and cinnamon, but also for its reminders of the ebullient, inspiring friend who gave it to me.

Favorite fragrances that aren’t quite me but that I hope I smell on everyone else

Galop d’Hermès: I want to know the woman who embodies Galop’s lush femininity. I know I’d like her, but I might be afraid of her, too. She’d likely be too classy to want to hang out at my place.

Chanel Chance L’Eau: If you have to simplify No. 5, this is the way to do it. I can handle — and adore — the real thing with its aldehydic, old-fashioned feel, so I don’t need L’Eau, but I’m glad it’s around.

Favorite fragrance that lived — and died, or almost — in 2016

Pierre Bourdon Sous les Magnolia: I smelled this in Paris and a few times on Grain de Musc’s Denyse Beaulieu, and I’m sorry I didn’t buy a bottle while I could. As Denyse said, it smells like a lost Roudnitska, or — my words — like Diorella’s southern-born half-sister. Now it’s only available in Austria and Germany. I love this one for its Scarlett O’Hara waft of magnolia, but also because it reminds me of Denyse and her humor, love of old movies and torch songs, and warm personality.

Erin

World-wide and for me, personally, 2016 was a bummer. But in terms of perfume, I thought it was a fine year: not a lot of spectacular mind-blowers, but plenty to enjoy.

Niche Highlights: Far and away, my favorite niche fragrance of 2016 was the spicy, smokey jasmine chypre of Arquiste Ella. Honorable Mentions go to Amouage Myths Woman and L'Artisan Bucoliques de Provence.

Indie Highlights: Hiram Green had a very good year, releasing both Dilettante and Arbolé Arbolé. Zoologist similarly released a few interesting choices, with my pet being Macaque. And Slumberhouse New Sibet is one of the most classical, almost retro fragrances Josh Lobb has made — don't be turned off by the listed "goat fur" note.

Mainstream Highlights: A weird tie for me, with Cartier L'Envol and Hermessence Muguet Porcelaine both proving quite pleasing. The Hermès hand-over year between perfumers Jean-Claude Ellena and Christine Nagel seems to have gone well, with Galop d'Hermès as well as the Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate and Eau de Néroli Doré duo likely to be on many people's lists.

Perfectly Acceptable: As usual, there's plenty to pick from here, increasingly from niche lines. I should note that I am not trying to damn these fragrances with faint praise; it's just I didn't find any of them especially surprising. Aedes de Venustas Grenadille D'Afrique, Diptyque Eau des Sens and Maison Francis Kurkdjian Petit Matin come to mind first. I usually pick a "Very Nice, But Not for That Price" winner and that award goes this year to Tom Ford Vert de Bois.

Best 2016 Flanker: Thierry Mugler Angel Muse.

Best Late Discoveries from 2015: This has become my favorite category the last few years, with fragrances I initially missed becoming late loves. One of my most worn perfumes this year was 2015's Rubini Fundamental. I also enjoyed Aesop Tacit, Anatole Lebreton Incarnata, Baruti Berlin im Winter and Kerosene Broken Theories.

TBD in 2017: Sarah Jessica Parker Stash SJP. There's no Ulta in Canada, SJP.

Jessica

Well, 2016 was a strange year. I'm still sad about the deaths of several longtime musical idols (Bowie, Prince, and George Michael — really?!) and I dread reading the headlines every morning. On the other hand, I feel like I've been fortunate in various recent developments in my personal and professional life. Over the past year I've even had opportunities to teach classes about perfume history and culture in New York, which was great fun (and something I'll be continuing in 2017). Here's a quick run-down of a few scents that have stayed in my mind and/or on my skin this year, for various reasons.

Favorite Mainstream Releases: Elizabeth and James Nirvana Rose and Bourbon, Galop d'Hermès

Favorite Flankers: Chanel No. 5 L'Eau, Thierry Mugler Angel Muse

Favorite Limited Edition: Diptyque + Olympia Le-Tan Rosaviola

Favorite Niche Release: Arquiste Ella

Favorite Indie Release: Aroma M Vanilla Hinoki

Biggest Disappointment: Kenzo World

Much Ado About Nothing: Ex Nihilo, Penhaligon's Portraits, Derek Lam 10 Crosby

Keeping The Faith: 4160 Tuesdays, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Favorite Advertisement: Linda Evangelista for Moschino Fresh Couture

Kevin

In my Best of 2015 post, I mentioned seven memorable perfumes; this year's number is closer to seventeen if you count perfumes from houses I 'discovered' for the first time this year (Zoologist, Dame Perfumery, Mirus, Olympic Orchids).

Since the end of a year is a time for contemplation of all sorts (serious and petty), I've been thinking of all the perfume houses that have disappeared (while in plain sight) for me — due to distribution, dilution of content (by releasing way too many 'new' fragrances) and a type of obscurity caused by being part of a HUGE crowd. Gone are the times when companies like Annick Goutal, Comptoir Sud Pacifique, Etro, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Santa Maria Novella, The Different Company and Maître Parfumeur et Gantier stood out and attracted feverish attention. (Does any perfume company today attract feverish attention given the almost-endless choices in the marketplace and new companies hatching like fleas?)

Companies that used to percolate with interesting offerings have dulled: Comme des Garçons (more Iso E Super anyone? Nooooooo!), Eau d'Italie, "White Musk" Guerlain, Parfumerie Generale and the like.

2016 was full of disappointing releases but I'll concentrate on perfumes I enjoyed. First up, two late-2015/early-2016 manly offerings that pleased me (one enough to buy it): Memo Manoa and Frédéric Malle Monsieur (cha-ching!) You can add Arquiste Él to my macho picks of 2016. I expected Etat Libre d'Orange Attaquer Le Soleil Marquis de Sade to be either gross or dull; it was a delightful take on cistus labdanum: fresh, citrus-y, mood lifting. Lift-off was implied by Cartier L'Envol, too...and it provides a smooth, restful (but not boring) ride. I am wearing Diptyque Kimonanthe on my current museum gallery talks; it makes its presence known in dimly lit Japanese galleries with "offerings" of camphor, delicate incense, dried osmanthus flowers, and clove/carnation. Sarah Jessica Parker Stash SJP was a surprise hit with me (and a perfume men or women can wear). Two "women's" perfumes caught my fancy: sultry Amouage Myths Woman and Hiram Green Dilettante (flowers in two styles: sexy-jaded and flirty-perky). Finally, one of my favorite perfume houses, Astier de Villatte, launched four perfumes and, !SHOCK!, I enjoy them all: Grand Chalet, Elixir du Dr. Flair, Commune de Paris 1871 and Splash Orange Amère.

I'm prefacing my article with a photo of a Cleopatra camellia from my garden; she's been blooming all through fall, even in freezing temperatures. Apart from the beautiful blossoms, Cleopatra's fragrance is perfect for cold weather, a mixture of sharp honey and camphor-rich incense. Cleopatra blooms prolifically under tough conditions...may we all have such fortitude in 2017 (while smelling our best)!

Note: image at top of post is Bottles & Reflections (Revised) [colorized] by dvaires at flickr; some rights reserved.

Possibly of interest

Perfume: the best of 2017
Perfume: the best of 2015
Perfume: the best of 2014

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: best of

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106 Comments

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  1. chocolatemarzipan8 says:
    30 December 2016 at 5:05 am

    Thanks, y’all! Love the lists !!! Will have to seek some of these out to test :)

    Happy New Year to all of you!

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 7:58 am

      Glad you enjoyed it, and happy New Year to you.

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      • Filomena says:
        1 January 2017 at 5:24 pm

        Happy New Year!
        I love lists too, and I do own a few on the favorites list.
        Thank you to all the reviewers on NST and I look forward to
        enjoying the posts in 2017.

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  2. lucasai says:
    30 December 2016 at 7:32 am

    Thank you to everyone in NST Team for another year of fragrance impressions.

    I’m happy to see that some of your choices are the same as mine among 2016 favorites.

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 8:02 am

      Glad we overlap, thanks Lucasai!

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  3. Lizzy K. says:
    30 December 2016 at 8:22 am

    An odd year, given that my two favourites were flankers (No. 5 L’Eau and Narciso Poudrée), but I agree with the optimism for Christine Nagel. I highly recommend her Oud & Bergamot for Jo Malone, if you haven’t already smelt it.

    Happy new year, everyone!

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 8:28 am

      I think that will be true for many people, since Angel Muse was also so good, and there weren’t a lot of really top notch pillar fragrances in the mainstream category.

      Happy 2017 to you!

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  4. johanob says:
    30 December 2016 at 8:27 am

    Cool lists everyone!My personal favorite and SOTD of 2016:smellbent The Artist’s Studio.So much fun to wear,and odd!Love it.Need to still smell Stash.

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 8:29 am

      I still need to smell Stash too! And Arquiste El & Ella, which made so many lists this year.

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      • johanob says:
        30 December 2016 at 1:58 pm

        They all sound so 70’s!Lol!I like.

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      • Amy says:
        30 December 2016 at 2:49 pm

        I was supriesed by the El and Ella love as neither did anything for me on first and second try. This means I’ll try again!

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        • Annikky says:
          30 December 2016 at 8:16 pm

          They didn’t quite work for me either, although it’s me not the fragrances – I like the idea and I can understand it’s well executed, it’s just not for me.

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      • Filomena says:
        1 January 2017 at 5:25 pm

        Stash is especially good and reasonable priced. 3.4 ounces for $85…can’t find too much of those these days.

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  5. ringthing says:
    30 December 2016 at 9:19 am

    Thanks for all your hard work, everyone at NST! I always enjoy these lists. Between you guys and the lists at CaFleurebon, I really want to smell Arquiste El and Ella, they both sound so over the top and I’m currently re-bingeing Mad Men, which seems like a good fit. My own sampling was meager this year but I really love DSH Chinchilla and drained my sample in record time.

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 9:24 am

      I really want to smell them too — they seem to be universally admired.

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  6. austenfan says:
    30 December 2016 at 9:26 am

    I don’t sample that much and this year was no exception. The fragrance I’m most eager to try is Hermès Galop. I loved her Rhubarbe Ecarlate although not quite as much as Néroli Doré. Are you still on the mend, Robin?

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 9:35 am

      Yes, I’m much better, thank you! But this was some vicious bug, whatever it was, and I’m still feeling run down, all these days later.

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      • austenfan says:
        30 December 2016 at 9:36 am

        Just take care, bodies need time to heal themselves.

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  7. thegoddessrena says:
    30 December 2016 at 9:56 am

    My favorites for the year are The Different Company Adjatay, Arquiste Ella, Soivohle Gardenia Batik, Chantecaille Le Wild, Heretic Pistil Whip, Tom Ford Vert D’Encens, and possibly Atelier Bloem Half Moon (only sampled it last week and I’ll have to go back to NY to retry since my local Barney’s doesn’t have it)

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 11:28 am

      Nice list, and lots there that I have not tried!

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  8. Annikky says:
    30 December 2016 at 10:09 am

    Great lists, all! I think Hiram Green, Masque Milano, Hermes, Chanel and Arquiste had a good year, although not all of the releases worked for me personally. I bought travel sprays of both Arbole Arbole and Dilettante (and the older Shangri La plus a full bottle of Moon Bloom). I’m still contemplating if I should buy Romanza or L’Attesa. I tested Myths Woman in the end of the year and loved it, will have to try it again. Most of the stuff Tom Ford launched was very nice as well (although in the end I bought London that is not from this year). Like many others, I very much enjoyed Angel Muse. On the other hand, after the absolutely brilliant ad, Kenzo was such a let-down.

    Iris Cendre was launched in the end of 2015, but for me it was a big favourite this year. Another love was vintage YSL Champagne that I became addictted to. I’m looking forward to trying more from Zoologist and DSH (loved the Beaver and White Lilac samples respectively) and will hopefully get my hands on some Dame Perfumery.

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 11:30 am

      I was just thinking this week that the Kenzo ad was a bit of a backfire — it made what would have been an otherwise ordinarily mediocre release seem even more disappointingly mediocre!

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      • Annikky says:
        30 December 2016 at 8:20 pm

        True. It just exasperates me when brands that are otherwise brave and edgy come out with these incredibly boring scents. This is a case in point par excellence.

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    • Amy says:
      30 December 2016 at 2:51 pm

      Campaigning for L’Attesa! Romanza is nice, but I don’t wear it nearly as much.

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      • Annikky says:
        30 December 2016 at 8:17 pm

        You are probably right, it’s just that I have so many irises…

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    • Filomena says:
      1 January 2017 at 5:29 pm

      Iris Cendre is really nice. Dame Perfumery Desert Rose, Dark Horse, and Mexican Vanilla are all nice scents and also reasonably priced, along with quite a few of his soliflores.

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  9. JadainGA says:
    30 December 2016 at 10:26 am

    What great lists! So many to sample…so little time and money! :)

    That said, my personal collection grew exponentially this year. I tried SO MANY samples, and bought more than my fair share of goodies all over the place. I bought older scents, new ones, bargains, and even splurged a time or two….

    My favorite release of 2016 that I purchased, and my SOTD, has to be Lovely Sheer! My favorite that is on the short list for my next purchase is Angel Muse.

    HAPPY NEW YEAR everyone!! It’s a joy to visit here everyday and share our passion for scent!

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 11:30 am

      And I did not even get to try Lovely Sheer!

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  10. Bear says:
    30 December 2016 at 10:37 am

    Happy New Year Everyone! !

    Favorite scents released this year: MFK Ciel de Gum, Tauer Au Coeur du Desert, and Mugler Oriental Express (not released this year but- WTF).
    For anyone who cares, all is fine. I have been MIA posting but read every day.
    I am a moody Italian! !!! LOL

    Let us all hope 2017 brings peace and prosperity. I can wish, can’t I ?

    :)

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    • Bear says:
      30 December 2016 at 10:41 am

      Forgot Angel Muse. OY…

      Triple strength coffee! !! STAT!

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 11:32 am

      Glad to see you, and yes, we can ALL wish, and when things don’t work out there is always coffee!

      Hope you saw that we are doing one of your topics next Friday for sotd.

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      • Bear says:
        30 December 2016 at 11:53 am

        I did! Thank you! :)

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    • nozknoz says:
      30 December 2016 at 11:57 am

      Bear, I was also going to mention Thierry Mugler’s Oriental Express, my favorite from the Exceptions series, and would also recommend Supra Floral and Over the Musk. Mugler touched classic perfume archetypes with his futuristic magic wand and the result is wonderful.

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      • Bear says:
        30 December 2016 at 12:11 pm

        Hello nozknoz!

        I liked all of the Les Exceptions but Chyprissimee (sp?). It had that patchouli-fraction that annoys me.
        Over the Musk is great! If Mugler has a sale…… LOL!

        Happy New Year!

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        • nozknoz says:
          30 December 2016 at 12:24 pm

          Everyone needs one or more of those 13-oz crystal bottles as a stealth weapon, Bear! Best wishes for 2017 to you, too!

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    • Kanuka says:
      30 December 2016 at 12:49 pm

      Glad you’re back. I was missing my Hypnotic Poison friend and wondered if you had moved to NZ.

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      • Bear says:
        30 December 2016 at 1:08 pm

        Hello Kanuka!
        Thank you!
        Happy New Year!
        And I will wear Hypnotic Poison NYE to celebrate new beginnings.
        Send some of your warm summer weather to the U.S.A.
        ;)

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        • Bear says:
          30 December 2016 at 1:10 pm

          Please.
          Where are my manners?
          :D

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    • Elisa P says:
      30 December 2016 at 1:16 pm

      I do miss your posts. They always make me smile????

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      • Bear says:
        30 December 2016 at 1:26 pm

        Thank you Elisa P !
        I appreciate that!
        Happy New Year! :D

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    • nebbe says:
      30 December 2016 at 4:21 pm

      Good to see you again Bear! Glad you were well, just moody* :)

      *moody, hungry, sleeping & laughing are the 4 emotional states in my 2 person, 2 cat household ;) and yes, one of us is Italian, too. Wouldn’t want it any other way.

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      • Bear says:
        30 December 2016 at 5:12 pm

        Thanks nebbe !!

        Happy New Year !!!

        Moody makes life……interesting !!! LOL ;)

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    • Filomena says:
      1 January 2017 at 5:31 pm

      I am a happy Italian, although not many special things happen to me. But my perfumes make me feel happy when I spray one on…which is every morning and evening!

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      • Bear says:
        1 January 2017 at 8:21 pm

        I’m happy too Filomena !!!

        :)

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  11. shellyw says:
    30 December 2016 at 12:01 pm

    I love your end of the year lists. It is like a premed list for me when I go to sniff things. Happy New Year and keep doing what you do.

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 1:51 pm

      Thank you!

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  12. Suzy Q says:
    30 December 2016 at 12:08 pm

    Thank you Robin and fab NST writers. I love the end of year perfume lists. Also: best of season lists. Also best notes lists. Lists!!!!!

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 1:51 pm

      Lists are good :-)

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  13. nozknoz says:
    30 December 2016 at 12:18 pm

    2016 was a great perfume year for me. I tried many new niche lines as a result of Luca Turin’s blog perfumesilove. I’m almost glad he moved on to other projects because I’m still behind in testing the samples I ordered. I’ll probably list one or two of those NEXT year. Sadly, I miss his columns in Style Arabia which sorted through the dross of mainstream perfume.

    In the DC area, we are now fortunate to have Ari’s beautiful new store, Arielle Shoshana, where she provided the opportunity to meet other area perfumistas, bloggers, Carlos Huber, and Barbara Herman. This also led to memorable outings to the Hermes and Santa Maria Novella boutiques, and one of the highlights of the year, experiencing the Chanel Olfactorium (sp?) with Akil at the Chevy Chase Saks 5th Avenue, thanks to Wendysue. Thanks are due to Holly, too, for catalyzing the NoVa meetups.

    The Tai Chi inspired vetiver cologne created by Rappleyea was the best surprise.

    Robin, I agree with you on Christine Nagel and would also thank her for my favorite, Mauboussin. I’m also glad you highlighted April Aromatics, another bright spot this year for me.

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    • nozknoz says:
      30 December 2016 at 12:19 pm

      Also appreciate NST continuing to be a dependable and enjoyable source of perfume information and discussion!

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    • Hamamelis says:
      30 December 2016 at 12:29 pm

      I missed the Rappleyea cologne, I suppose it is an American indie line? Tai chi inspired sounds very interesting!

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      • nozknoz says:
        30 December 2016 at 12:48 pm

        Rappleyea is a long-time NST commenter and aromatherapist.

        I forget which country you’re in, Hamamelis, but I know there are some exceptional Chen style Tai Chi teachers in Europe, too.

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    • Rappleyea says:
      30 December 2016 at 12:51 pm

      Oh, goodness! I’m honored (and gobsmacked) to be even mentioned on a Best of 2016 post! Thank you! :”>

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 1:52 pm

      What were some great scents you found because of the LT blog?

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      • nozknoz says:
        30 December 2016 at 2:39 pm

        Robin, I greedily got so many of them at once (I tended to order sample sets or multiple samples from the lines he mentioned) and it was mostly last summer, so my memory is muddled.

        I thought Nishane Musiqa Oud was wonderful for the first couple of hours, but the drydown was meh. (True of so many perfumes these days.) I was delighted by Cognoscenti No. 16 Tomato Leather. It’s such an unusual and pleasing take on leather. I would have bought it, but it didn’t seem to last long and I thought I’d try everything else first, LOL. The Pekji line is truly distinctive and interesting; LT’s favorite was Rûh. IIRC, the Nu_be perfumes were interesting, too.

        I’m enjoying samples from the Auphorie. It’s a different esthetic and palette.

        There are many he mentioned I haven’t tried yet that I’m looking forward to: Parfums MDCI Fetes Persanes, Cartier L’Heure Perdue by Matilde Laurent, and the Anatole Lebretons.

        I wasn’t smitten by Angela Ciampagna. Too much of one of those woody things that I don’t like. LT doesn’t seem to mind them as much or maybe I’m more hyperosmic to them than he is and the balance is off for me.

        I need to try them all again, make notes, and come to some conclusions. And even though I have a huge number of samples, I probably have only maybe half of the ones he mentioned! You can see why I’m glad he stopped, although I hope he comes back to it in a year or two.

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        • Robin says:
          30 December 2016 at 3:43 pm

          Thanks so much! I adore his writing but our tastes are so different that I long ago stopped ordering samples based on his reviews. But these days I feel like it’s so easy to miss new, decent niche lines.

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          • nozknoz says:
            31 December 2016 at 10:59 am

            I think you’ve pointed out that he is often interested in evidence of technical virtuosity that is going to be lost on most of us. Also, I wonder if he tests everything on skin, or most of it just on scent strips. I think I appreciated the Style Arabia reviews partly because he needed to focus more on wearability for those.

            FYI, yesterday I overlooked the Anna Zworykina samples, which I enjoyed – rich leathers!

    • Filomena says:
      1 January 2017 at 5:37 pm

      I live in Baltimore, which is very close to D.C., but except for a Nordstrom, Macy’s and a Hermes boutique, we have no other perfume stores. Thus, I buy lots of samples and some perfumes on-line through LuckyScent, Barney’s, Aedes de Venustas, Osswald’s, Tiger Lilly, Neiman’s, etc.

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  14. Hera says:
    30 December 2016 at 12:30 pm

    Have a Happy and Healthy New Year.
    My favorites of 2016 were Hermes Eau de Rhubarbe Ecarlate, MFK Petit Matin, Grand Soir and Sylvaine Delacourte Florentina and Dovana. I also liked the Amber and Rose oils from Andy Tauer.
    I am wearing a drop of amber oil mixed with unscented body cream.

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 1:53 pm

      I’ve been mixing the oils with cerave cream myself!

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    • Filomena says:
      1 January 2017 at 5:38 pm

      I have both oils and will try mixing them with an unscented body lotion I have.

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  15. Elisa P says:
    30 December 2016 at 1:01 pm

    I’m kund of amazed how much I’ve sniffed this year and while I admired many if the above, I wasn’t moved to buy any except Vanilla Hinoki which was a complete turnaround for me. I did buy decants of Au Coeur du Desert and SHL 777 Taklamakan that were released this year and really like Perris Monte Carlo Absolue d’Osmanthe of which I have a few samples and will probably suffice for now.

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 1:53 pm

      I bought very little this year myself — but you probably smelled more than I did.

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  16. Rappleyea says:
    30 December 2016 at 1:02 pm

    Great lists everyone! Lots to sample. A huge thank you to all of the crew here who test and write such wonderful reviews of all of these scents all year, every year.

    With a blush to admit it, my favorite “new to me” scents of 2016 were April Aromatics Calling All Angels and L’AP Seville a L’Aube. I’m only a few years behind. ;-)

    Have a very happy, healthy and safe New Year, all!

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 1:54 pm

      Hey, no rush, right? I am wondering if I should break my rules and buy Seville before they discontinue it.

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      • johanob says:
        30 December 2016 at 2:02 pm

        Are there rumors of discontinuing Seville?

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        • Robin says:
          30 December 2016 at 3:45 pm

          No, just general worry. Plus, I worry in general that L’Artisan is not thriving as they should. They don’t share their sales figures with me (ha!) so of course I am quite possibly wrong.

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          • johanob says:
            31 December 2016 at 1:41 am

            Ah,OK.Plus discontinuations are totally random sometimes,imho.

      • nozknoz says:
        30 December 2016 at 3:26 pm

        The old packaging is showing up on the discount sites now. There could never be a better time to purchase it.

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    • Rappleyea says:
      30 December 2016 at 7:04 pm

      I just remembered a new favorite that *was* a 2016 release – SSS Equestrian. How on earth could I forget that?!?

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  17. Hamamelis says:
    30 December 2016 at 1:04 pm

    Favourite 2016 releases are Arbolé Arbolé, Ostara and Andy’s body oils. I discovered many pre 2016 releases which I love, Neela Vermeire’s Trayee, some by Mona di Orio, by April Aromatics, Amouage Journey, Aqua di Parma Iris Nobile…it has been a very good perfume year for me and thank you all at NST for being such a good perfume community.

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 1:55 pm

      Glad it was a good perfume year!

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  18. floragal says:
    30 December 2016 at 1:39 pm

    Who doesn’t love a list.
    Still some mentioned I’ve not tried, but so grateful for all the various ways NST has exposed me to interesting, and some fantastic new scents in 2016.

    Muse is high on my list, as is Diptyque’s Eau de Sens.

    At the moment I’m quite content with my perfume options but always up to try what’s new out there and do wonder what new beauty will be brought my way in 2017.

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    • johanob says:
      30 December 2016 at 2:03 pm

      What astonishes me is even TODAY and probably tomorrow as well there are still announcements of new releases for 2016!!Enough already!!

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      • Robin says:
        30 December 2016 at 3:46 pm

        Most of those are probably counted by those brands as 2017 releases, if that makes you feel better!

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        • nozknoz says:
          31 December 2016 at 1:20 pm

          Idk, that kind of means the 2017 onslaught has already begun. ????

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  19. nebbe says:
    30 December 2016 at 4:12 pm

    Great lists, thank you all for putting these together!

    My 2016 release love that i sampled is Athalia by Parfums de Marly. It went from “huh” to “mmm hmmm” in 3 tries. Milking my sample now.

    New-to-me loves: Hermes Jardib Sur le Toit & Jour Absolu, Byredo Gypsy Water, Chanel Cuir de Russie. (All wish-listed)

    Wishing everyone a Happy New Year!

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 8:29 pm

      That’s a nice mix of fragrances. I need to try some Parfums de Marly.

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      • nebbe says:
        30 December 2016 at 11:48 pm

        The bottles are pretty too!

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  20. girardEAU says:
    30 December 2016 at 5:17 pm

    Oh my, is it the end of 2016 already? Where did the time go?
    As always, great article, I enjoyed it immensely.
    A few of my 2016 favorites are SJP Stash, Cartier L’Envol, and newly discovered Oriza Legrand.
    Here’s to wishing everyone at NST and all the readers a great 2017! :)

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 8:29 pm

      I still can’t believe I have not tried Stash OR L’Envol. 2017!

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  21. gravity says:
    30 December 2016 at 6:05 pm

    Great lists! Thank you, wonderful NSTers!

    I’m hopelessly behind on new releases. The only house I was able to follow this year was Hermes, and I’m glad their ‘transition period’ went well. The biggest disappointment for me was Prada – it’s not that the fragrance is bad, it’s the hopes that were too high.

    Wishing everybody a Happy New Year!

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 8:30 pm

      My hopes were probably too high too.

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  22. cazaubon says:
    30 December 2016 at 6:06 pm

    Thank you to everyone at NST for providing us with such a great community and loads of information – I read every day and life wouldn’t be the same without it. Bravo!

    My favourites were Au Coeur du Désert, Hyacinth & a Mechanic and the rose & amber oils by Tauer, MDCI Fêtes Persanes, Geisha M Vanilla Hinoki, SHL Taklamakan, TF Vert d’Encens, Arbolé Arbolé, JM Orris & Sandalwood and MFK Grand Soir. Oh, and LV Mille Feux and Matière Noire!

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    • Robin says:
      30 December 2016 at 8:31 pm

      Nice list! Glad to hear a vote for an LV, I hear so little about them (and haven’t tried a single one).

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  23. hajusuuri says:
    30 December 2016 at 6:53 pm

    Oh my gosh, I have so many favorites this year but I will just list a few. They were not necessarily new releases in 2016. SSS Pacific Forest, Hiram Green Arbole Arbole, Masque Milano L’Attesa, Chanel No. 22 EDT, Mugler Over the Musk, Mugler SupraFloral, Mugler Angel Muse, Guerlain Mon Precieux Nectar, SHL 777 Taklamakan, Prada Purple Rain, Carner Barcelona D600, Dior Homme.

    I want to do a shout out to clarissa whose tastes and mine overlap A LOT and we did many mega swaps/splits in 2016; I still have many decants waiting in the wings to be worn. I also want to thank the many other NSTers who participated in my splits because that had allowed me to purchase 100 mL bottles at a better price point while not being saddled by 100 mLs!

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    • hajusuuri says:
      30 December 2016 at 7:23 pm

      That would be saddled WITH …

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      • johanob says:
        31 December 2016 at 1:22 am

        Lol,no,”saddled by” was quite correct methinks.We’re all owned by our perfumes,although we like to think it is the other way round…Lol.Enjoy the UK.Should you stumble accross a pub called Theodore Bullfrog behind the Tate,have a burger and a huge beer!!Hehe!!xx

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        • hajusuuri says:
          31 December 2016 at 11:21 am

          I will look for it!

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    • nozknoz says:
      31 December 2016 at 11:31 am

      You deserve an award as Splitter of the Year, hajusuuri!

      FYI, if you have a chance, you might want to look up Lyn Harris’s Perfume H boutique. Although the website is down, so I’d call first to make sure they are open/still there. I’d be in for a split of anything you might decide to pick up there.

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  24. AngelaB says:
    31 December 2016 at 12:44 am

    Hi, well it’s late now, officially NY’sEve but I did want to say; a big amazing thank you to everyone here who helped educate, inspire and seduce me during my fledgling year as a FumeHead! What a trip it has been!
    You would be proud of my progress if you could see my samples inventory now or knew how far I have come, the many nights I read THIS blog in particular, into the wee weeeee WEEEEE hours of the morning, researching, writing lists, referencing your opinions and pefume descriptions, taking notes on all.
    Again a BIG THANK You and a nod of admiration and respect to you NST and all your commentors. You weave a endearing fabric of artistry, wisdom, wit, humor, kindness and humanity like a hammock for us all to swing in.
    Ok now for my quick list: although a jasmine freak I also adore smoke and leather ( while still afraid of Oud & Amber)
    I flipped over Daesin Winter Nights, Atelier des Oro Cuir Sacre,
    Cognoscenti Tomato Leather, Aftelier Amber Tapestry and Ella, by Arquisite (thanks to The Scented Hound & The Colognoisseur).
    Now Cuir de Lancome truly haunts me.
    I am trying to wait until next year for my next FB purchase…. ;D
    Happy New Year!!????

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    • johanob says:
      31 December 2016 at 1:26 am

      I soooo agree.Robin said she doesn’t get to even half of the new releases,but the wealth of perfume information(up to date info!!yay),cool reviews and our Friday projects,actually makes this the most invaluable resource on perfumes,out of all that is out there.Plus:friends and boatloads of humor.Incomparable.Happy New Year!!x

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    • nozknoz says:
      31 December 2016 at 11:28 am

      Welcome, AngelaB! FYI, I’m a long-time perfumista, and Cognoscenti Tomato Leather was a major thrill for me, too. I really need to try Aftelier Amber Tapestry.

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    • Robin says:
      31 December 2016 at 12:11 pm

      So glad it is helpful!

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  25. Elisa says:
    31 December 2016 at 11:08 am

    Robin, I totally agree that it was a boring year for niche. I want to try your “fun” picks though.

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    • Robin says:
      31 December 2016 at 12:14 pm

      Your list at BdJ does not have a single true niche — not sure I would either if I had not tried Bucoliques, and in a “normal” year that probably would not have made my list. It’s slim pickings out there.

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  26. nozknoz says:
    31 December 2016 at 1:17 pm

    I forgot to mention Monsillage Eau du Celeri, which is an unusual and refreshing summer scent.

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    • Robin says:
      1 January 2017 at 6:14 pm

      And such a great name!

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  27. MrsDalloway says:
    31 December 2016 at 3:20 pm

    Any love for Heeley Eau Sacrée? I just got my sample today and haven’t got to it yet, but I seem to remember people wearing and enjoying it earlier in the year.

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    • Robin says:
      1 January 2017 at 6:14 pm

      I did not try it!

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    • cazaubon says:
      2 January 2017 at 11:23 am

      I thought it was fantastic, but the price puts me off.

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  28. Merlin says:
    1 January 2017 at 3:02 pm

    Apologies for being so late to the party! Many great lists here I hope to explore ????

    – Unfortunately way too many I have not yet tried. I actually seldom buy perfumes in the year they are released as it sometimes takes multiple tries for me to fall in love (I need to build familiarity…) However I did do it twice this year:

    – Ford’s Vert d’Encens made me realize how long I have been looking for an incense-pine with that exact level of sweetness and

    – Jo Malone’s Orange Bitters: a lip-smacking, warming oriental that is just so cheerful!

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    • Robin says:
      1 January 2017 at 6:15 pm

      I hope Orange Bitters does not disappear before I manage to get myself to a mall, but sadly it probably will.

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      • Merlin says:
        2 January 2017 at 12:05 am

        If it’s a success I think they will find a way of bringing it back!

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  29. Incense says:
    23 February 2017 at 1:44 pm

    I know this is a few months late, but I only found this blog now. I hadn’t been aware that The Olsons had released new perfumes this year, so when I read the review linked to above, I promptly went out to Sephora on my lunch hour and got myself a sample of Nirvana Bourbon. Thank you for the heads up – and for all of the great articles and reviews on this site.

    I’d also like to thank the siterunners and commenters here for what seems like a truly welcoming and accessible comments section.

    Log in to Reply
    • Robin says:
      24 February 2017 at 5:23 pm

      Glad we helped you find a new perfume to try, and glad you like the comments section!

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