Boy Chanel joins the Les Exclusifs collection at Chanel this year, bringing the collection to 16.1 It's the second Exclusif from house perfumer Olivier Polge (the first being Misia), and was inspired by Arthur "Boy" Capel. Boy Capel, an English polo player and businessman, would likely be forgotten today but for his 9-year affair with Coco Chanel — he is often cited as the true love of her life.1 That, of course, lends him massive potential as "another link in the grand construct of the Chanel story".2 I don't know exactly how many products he has accrued at this point, but his namesake lipstick (in the Rouge Coco Shine line) came out in 2011, and his namesake handbag, Le Boy Chanel, debuted in 2012 (and was called an "instant classic"). Now, he has a fragrance.
It's a unisex, with the usual hedging about unisex. Chanel says it is "a vibrant, perfectly balanced scent that challenges tradition and transcends gender"; Polge says...
My way of working on this fragrance was really not to try to make a unisex fragrance but really more to dive into men’s fragrance…and to show how well it could be worn by a woman. So it was not to try to create an in-between fragrance, but a very masculine fragrance. And — like many other things in life — gender is given by the person wearing it.
So, make of that what you will. Polge also said that Boy had "a duality, with a fresh, aromatic masculine barbershop aspect and its more enveloping element", and that's just right, with the emphasis on the fresh part. Boy Chanel does have a masculine fougère accord, but it's a quiet one, and the notes overall (lavender, rose geranium, lemon, grapefruit, rose, orange blossom, sandalwood, heliotropin, vanilla and musk) are used with a very light hand — there is no need to worry too much because you don't like lavender, or you don't like orange blossom, etc and etc. The opening is a brief buzz of pale citrus, with the fougère accord done nearly in washed-out pastels — it's a very modern barbershop. Everything is soft: the lavender is declawed, there's no sulfur in the grapefruit. The florals are a whisper, the heliotrope adds a smidgen of creamy gold-tinged almost-powder, the woody vanilla wears like a sheer veil. It is hard to imagine weather too hot or humid to wear Boy Chanel.
The lasting power is decent given how quiet it is to begin with; they've upped the concentration to Eau de Parfum and it's just as well. If you're looking for a powerhouse, look elsewhere.
Verdict: Awfully nicely done, and yes, anybody could wear it. By comparison, Prada Man, which many women (including me) have adopted as their barbershop fougère, is a he-man in a wife beater. Boy would make a great no-brainer summer cologne if you needed such a thing; the slot it fills, to my mind, is the same as that filled by Terre d'Hermès Eau Très Fraîche — pleasant, low sillage, not girly, not manly either, and most important of all, not boring. And like the Hermès, it smells sophisticated despite there being seemingly not much to it, and it smells expensive — as always (well, usually) with Chanel, it does not smell like they skimped on the materials. And, it smells fresh without calling to mind cleaners or other functional products. I would absolutely wear it if I had it, and I'd bet I would reach for it reasonably often. I absolutely would not pay what they're asking for it, though, especially given that you can still get a 50 ml bottle of Allure Homme Édition Blanche for $85 (and if you haven't tried that one, you should). But I know many of you will shell out for Boy, and some of you already have. Wear it in good health!
I think we can all breathe a sigh of relief about Olivier Polge at this point? You may or may not like Boy, or Misia,4 but so far, Polge has done a more than adequate job of keeping the standards up at Chanel. Do comment if you disagree.
And the quick poll: name the 3 Chanel fragrances you think anybody new to the line should try. Let's leave out No. 5, shall we? Everybody already knows that one.
Boy Chanel is available in 75 ($185) and 200 ($325) ml Eau de Parfum.
1. Boy has been widely reported as the 17th fragrance, but I only count 16 (that includes the four older fragrances that were folded into the range when it debuted). Then again, I never was good at maths. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
2. From the Chanel description of Boy: "Gabrielle Chanel considered Arthur ‘Boy’ Capel as more than her soul mate; he was her double and her alter ego."
3. Quote via Chanel is 2013 Luxury Marketer of the Year at Luxury Daily, and they were not talking about Boy Capel, but just about Chanel's "impeccable strategy, tactics, creative, execution and results" in their marketing efforts.
4. Or Chance Eau Vive, which I'm still pretending doesn't exist, along with the rest of the Chance line.
Update: Perfumer Christopher Sheldrake also worked on Boy.
Three for a newbie? Okay: Eau de Cologne, Cuir de Russie, and Sycomore. In my opinion, the best in their respective classes (citrus, leather, woods).
Very glad to hear that Boy is good!
It’s worth a shot, for sure.
No. 19 EDT, Pour Monsieur and Sycamore.
Pour Monsieur is so good. Really, women ought to try Pour Monsieur and the Allure Edition Blanche before they shell out the big bucks for Boy.
Noted and much appreciated–haven’t tried either and glad to know I should!
Unfortunately not sure how easy they are to find. The original Pour Monsieur might not be on Chanel counters in the US at all, although you should be able to find the (less good) Concentree version. The Allure Homme Edition Blanche was originally released as a limited edition, but they seem to have kept it around, at least on the website. Not sure if it’s on counters.
In Europe, Pour Monsieur is available (I love it), but I’ve never tried that Allure flanker. Will keep my eyes open!
It was pretty darned good — IMHO, much better than the women’s Allure or the original Allure Homme.
I sampled Monsieur early in my perfumistahood and really liked it! Then I got distracted by shiny things and forgot about it. I wonder if I still have that sample somewhere . . .
Pour Monsieur is one of my husband’s stapples. Smells so good!
31 Rue Cambon, 1932 and Misia.
I’m close. I’d switch out 28 La Pausa for 1932, but I don’t know the latter well.
It’s less rooty and more sparkling with the jasmine. It had a bit of a lukewarm reaction when it came out, but it fits so perfectly within the line. Very elegant but very easy to wear!
My first response: Eau Premiere, Misia and Bois des Isles.
On reflection, it depends on what the person already likes. If they like green scents then I’d trade out Misia for Cristalle.
I’m looking forward to smelling Boy. Misia was perfect.
I am guessing more perfumistas will love Misia than Boy? But we’ll see if I’m right. They are both very well done for what they are, but I think the average perfumista is more interested in a big lipstick rose / violet than a quiet unisex fougere.
I know I am!
This is likely to be nowhere close to My Kinda Thang, so I’ll skip it.
But as for three Chanels a newbie should try? No. 19, Bois des Iles, and 31 Rue Cambon. (I write this while sniffing the drydown of 1932, which reminds me strongly of 31 RC. Not complaining.)
(I may be one of the few Chanelophiles who didn’t care much for Misia.)
No, I don’t think you’re alone! But did you think it was well done?
(And thank you for including Bois des Iles. I think everyone who thinks they don’t like the classic Chanels should at least give it a shot.)
Yes, well done. But somehow it seems… oh… less “Chanel-y” to me than the others I picked. Could be because it reminded me so much of Infusion d’Iris (except less friendly) and so little of other Chanels.
Yes, it’s not Chanel-y. Or wasn’t…maybe some day we’ll think it was because the odor profile at Chanel will be quite different under Olivier Polge?
+1
Interesting distinction! I didn’t care for Misia myself but then there is not even one Chanel I like enough to own a bottle of!
I am totally indifferent to Misia and although it’s not awful, it is certainly not carrying the torch, IMHO. Of course, I feel the same about Jersey and Beige…. and 1932 for that matter. But for 5 minutes at least 1932 soars….
“Carrying the torch” – of Chanel-dom maybe? I thought it was good but not me, and not very Chanel. Haven’t tried Jersey, liked Beige, and 1932 has both that uplifting opening and the 31RC-ish drydown I like. I find it both pretty and elegant, and yet not something I think newbies *need* to try.
I can’t get 31 RC b/c for some strange reason it always pulls very salty to my nose and that accord overwhelms everything else. Very weird, so I can’t get anything about a connection to 1932. I have a decant of that, and I’ll put it on in the summer, enjoy it for about 5-10 min and then blast it away with something else. Perhaps I’d like the extrait more, but I am holding out for something else…. Beige just reminds me of a more polished version of Allure extrait, so nothing new there for me. Jersey is all lavender for me and I love lavender but no point in spending LE$ for that. So… I guess I’m just disappointed is all. If they were less expensive I’d probably have some of them….
My initial testing of Misia was mostly violet with just a hint of powder, lipstick and rose. A disappointment to me! But I’ve held onto it for another testing on one of these warm days to see if it blooms a bit more. So many of the Exclusifs seem to need a little boost!
Yes to everything you sais Mals. +++
Those would be my picks, too.
Totally my three choices too, Mals! Perfect for newbies to know, even if they taught them what they didn’t like (sorry for my confusion of pronouns here, but you’ll get what I mean!).
Absolutely!
I agree completely.
Love Misia, which made me reevaluate my entire relationship to Chanel. I’ve only quickly tried Boy and I couldn’t quite figure out how I felt about it. More testing needed!
I found it slightly too quiet / simplistic on first try. It’s not so simple after multiple wearings.
No 19, 28 la Pausa, 31 Rue Cambon.
Nicely rounded set.
Someone likes iris
Hm lots of good choices already and I’m not really qualified to pick three (I like much of the line well enough but don’t really LOVE almost anything)–maybe I’ll just put in a good word for the original Egoiste, if no one’s mentioned it yet. Spicy rose, yum!
Yes, another that women can wear!
Yes, I wanted to mention that one! Wonderful stuff.
Love Egoiste! I guess to me it suits the “guy scent for a girl” thing pretty perfectly already, too.
That’s a good one.
I’m not as familiar with Chanel as I likely ought to be, but my stab at three good ones for newbs to try would be Cristalle, Bois des Iles, and Coco.
Glad someone else has a sweet spot for Cristalle
Me too! See below. Cristalle is the last of a dying breed.
Oh, I like those choices!
I like the idea of creating a masculine over a unisex fragrance and transcending blurring gender lines a lot.
I own Le Boy bag, sadly it’s my least favorite of my three Chanel bags, it’s more functional but less distinctive than the 2.55. And the chain is very heavy!
Cuir de Russie, COCO, 31 Rue Cambon
It sounds awfully good, but not sure I see any difference in the outcome — it smells like something anybody could wear, which is true of tons of fragrances regardless how they’re marketed
Must be nice to have enough Chanel bags to have a least favorite one!
(I’m so vexed by the idea there’s a 17th Chanel Exclusif I haven’t heard of but I can’t immediately find more than 16 either…)
Quoting WWD (which is probably where everybody else got the number): “The new scent, Boy Chanel, is the 17th Les Exclusifs perfume.”
My carded sample of Boy lists the range inside the card, and there are 16 listed. I don’t think any were ever limited edition or discontinued? Or I’m forgetting something.
It sounds like I would like Boy very much, but I am also kind of disappointed in where Chanel is going. I would like to see something more daring next year. OK, and I’d like to see them not strip down their classics anymore. Nuf said.
Three Chanels: definitely Sycomore b/c it’s a challenging scent, and they aren’t challenging much anymore. I love other vetivers, but Sycomore is a pillar that holds up the world of vetivers. Obviously, Coco b/c it’s one of my be-all, end-all fragrances. But in extrait b/c it’s probably the richest version they still offer, and everyone needs to experience the full symphony. Then Cristalle edt b/c even it’s current iteration it is likely to be the best of what remains in normal department stores of a classic citrus oakmoss floral.
I don’t think of Chanel as a “daring” house, no matter what they market themselves as. Even the initial Les Exclusifs were hardly daring, right? So long as they don’t start doing crap (again, I’m ignoring Chance) I’m not displeased.
Oh, please let’s ignore Chance.
And maybe Allure, too.
Chance? Is that a perfume?
Yep. It even had a few flankers. It was one of Chanel’s “youth-oriented” offerings back around 2003 or so.
Never heard of it.
Ditto that, it was my first thought when I read that comment.
Great review
It was kind of what I expect it to be…so nothing I am gonna ruin my income for 
My 3 pick: Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie and Coromandel. Interesting fragrances..tho I wish the first two lived up to the vintage versions, they are still pretty great
I am not going to ruin my income for any perfume if I can help it
I’d like to see Boy’s reaction to the idea of a $5,000 hand bag named after him.
28 la Pausa, Coco, and the Eau de Cologne.
Ha — I don’t know enough about him to say! I saw the Coco Before Chanel movie and have already forgotten everything except that it was pretty and then he died.
There are 17 Exclusifs counting Boy.
My three picks would be:
Misia
Boy
Rue Cambon
Honorable mention to La Pausa
(I am not counting my other loves Cuir Russie, Chanel No. 22 and Bois des Iles that I also have in extract.)
What are the 17 Exclusifs, then? The carded sample lists 16, including Boy. The Chanel website lists 16, including Boy.
So what is the 17th one, that is not listed here:
http://www.chanel.com/en_US/fragrance-beauty/les-exclusifs-de-chanel-88437
Maybe they are counting Une Fleur de Chanel by Chanel, the limited edition ‘camellia’ EDT ? Not sayin’ they are, just trying to solve the mystery.
Or maybe they are just plain wrong. LOL
But that was 1998 — it was never re-launched as part of this series, was it? Or I’ve totally forgotten!
That I don’t know Robin. I have the 1998 bottle.
I think the PR folk miscounted.
Could well be.
Not sure this will be my thing, but I’m glad it’s well done and I will definitely try it as soon as I can.
Completely unable to pick three, so I cheat.
Mainstream: No 19, Egoiste, Cristalle
Exclusifs: Cuir de Russie, 31 Rue Cambon, Sycomore
Ha, total cheat!
Well, I haven’t tried all the exclusifs, let alone all Chanels, but the 3 I’d recommend most from my trials are Pour Monsieur, Egoïste and Sycomore. I’m very tempted by Coromandel.
I liked Allure back in the day (haven’t tried it lately) and on my skin found Allure Edition Blanche to be an utter waste of time – cream cleanser without the advantage of scouring power. But then I’m the guy whose skin sank Box of Eels without a trace, so don’t be too swayed by my experience. ;^)
LOL at “cream cleanser without the advantage of scouring power” — excellent description even if I loved the scent
I don’t know if my picks would all be likeable for a newbie, but I’d have to go with 19, Rue Cambon and Coromandel for a spectrum. I love a few more but think of these as distinct from each other.
Thanks for the review and most of all the rec to try Allume Homme Edition Blanche. I freely admit my weakness for Chanel and a more reasonable option is great.
Do try Pour Monsieur & Egoiste while you’re at it, if you haven’t already — I think they’re all unisex.
Funny how I haven’t gravitated toward Chanel, even though Chanel No. 19 was something I wore in my 20s (way too long ago…).
I’d probably list No. 19, Sycomore and Bois des Iles. I think I want to try Boy.
I don’t think I really gravitate towards Chanel either, even though I wore Cristalle faithfully for years.
Ooh, great question!
Regular store: Cristalle, Eau Premiere and No.19 (these days, the EdP).
Exclusives: Misia, Bois des Isles and Cuir de Russie for the brave / 28 La Pausa for the lily-livered (like me).
Olivier Polge has been going..how long? and has already produced Misia and Oriental Express — I’m a fan already.
I think they announced his appt at Chanel in 2013? But he’s been a perfumer for years.
Your description of Boy sounds wonderful. If I hadn’t just bought a bottle of Iris Cendre, I’d be tempted.
I’d recommend Misia, 1932 and 31RC to someone who was testing Chanel for the first time. Love all three.
Might as well wait then
New to Chanel line:
1. 31 RC
2. Coco
3. No 22
I need to do a count, but Rue Cambon is making a good showing today.
I was also interested in the count, and so far 31 Rue Cambon is “winning” with 14 votes (17 fragrances so far).
The other strong contenders: Bois des Îles and No. 19.
(I might not have counted quite correctly.)
Oh, thank you for counting!!
I’ve been looking for something subtle, I’ll have to try out Boy the next time I see it!
Can’t hurt.
1. Cristalle
2. 31 Rue Cambon
3. Coco
(From morning to night, a day with Chanel experience.)
I like this idea!
Me too.
I have two small samples of Chanel Boy. I really do enjoy wearing it, but I am holding buying a full bottle. Its very pricey.
My three recommendations for someone new to Chanel:
1. Cuir de Russie
2. No. 19 EDT
3. Coco EDT
It really is — and I guess it’s more because it’s an EdP, but it doesn’t really wear like one.
I’m excited to try this. Thanks for the review!
I was bothered by the name “Boy Chanel” because one could not just say “Boy” or “Chanel Boy”; it needed Chanel as a last name. Now having paid more attention to for whom it was named, I realized that it could be worse! Neither “Arthur” nor “Capel” would have worked, methings, so Boy it is!
My 3 newbie picks would be No.19, 31 Rue Cambon and Bois des Iles.
Am guessing now also that the decision was already made by the handbag? They were probably going to have the same name.
Late to this party, but I’ll weigh in with Cristalle, Rue Cambon, and Bois des Iles. I never thought I was drawn to Chanel either, except that they seem to be creeping in and taking up a high % of my (small) collection-mostly as larger decants.
I’ll give Boy a sniff when I come across it. It’s not particularly screaming at me, though.
My newbie picks for Chanel would have to be no 19, no 22, and Cuir decant Russie. I would like to try Boy but a little PO’ed that Chanel didn’t want STC to sell decants of any Chanel products. I do think that Chanel should bring back no 46 and do daring things. Coco Chanel was revolutionary for her time in terms of fashion and perfume. It’s sad how Coco was treated by Boy though.
They might bring back their back catalogue, but with a totally different composition, just like with Bleu.
That does not make me mad. As a perfumista, I am glad that services like STC exist. But if I was a perfume house, I would not want them to sell my products either.
Must get the new guy or girl to like Chanel? Hmm…
1. Bleu de Chanel 2. Allure Homme Édition Blanche 3. Égoïste
1. Coco Mademoiselle 2. No.19 Poudré 3. No.5 Eau Première.
The Les Exclusifs are not easy for someone new to the infinite vastness of perfumes and their prices can be a turn-off forever if one does not strike a chord with.
Was surprised how little mention No. 5 Eau Premiere got here today!
I’ll try Boy if I get a chance, but it sounds a bit unconvincing. ‘Not too much of this … not too much of that … only a smidgen of that other thing … such-and-such is very sheer … ‘.
I do like a fragrance to declare itself, you know … make a stand in favour of something …
It makes a stand in favor of discreet
Not Chanel’s biggest fan although I do appreciate and enjoy some of their scents. The only thing that appeals to me about this fragrance is the silly name with the endless options for flankers.
My favourite Chanels are probably Cristalle, Pour Monsieur and Cuir de Russie.
And I see that I really need to try that Allure version. I never have, since I dislike the original Allure (for women) so much.
I am not a fan of Allure either & do tend to forget it exists.
I am not very original, but in order:
Antaeus
Sycomore (the only Les Exclusifs I could consider buying)
Allure Homme Édition Blanche
Nice, and I think that’s our first mention of Antaeus!
I’d have to choose Bois des Îles, No 19 and Coromandel. That would give a newbie something for all seasons.
Thanks.
My three Chanels would be: Bois des Iles, Cuir de Russie and Eau de Cologne
A classic trio.
Pour Monsieur Edt (*not* the concentrée), No.22 and Cuir de Russie for me.
Need to smell Boy. Generally dislike fougères, if they’re not called Jicky, but this sounds nice.
Cristalle EDT, No22, Cuir de Russie
its so hard especially since it’s my favourite line…
Very late comment from not-a-Chanel-fan. I think I would be the first to mention Cristalle Au Verte. Panned by almost all perfumistas, its standard-black-tea and lemon accord is one of the few scents tolerable in a heat wave.
And Eau Premier – I find it weirdly generic and yet its the most calming, familiar and uplifting scents ever.
This not-a-Chanel fan has been wearing Eau Premiere for about a month…
31 Rue Cambon
Bois des Iles
Sycomore
and of the unExclusifs
No 19
Cristalle
Coco
and (I’m allowed 3 lists of three?)
Egoiste
Pour Monsieur
28 La Pausa
Not very much narrowing down there. Whoops.
Tried Boy and liked it; quite agree that they “clearly didn’t skimp on the materials” and that it is “discrete”. And I think good ‘discrete’ may be harder to do than good ‘powerhouse’…
On your recommendation tried Boy next to Allure Homme Edition Blanche and the absolute gulf in class was, for me, enormous. Or should that be “gulf in class was absolutely enormous”? See, I’m easily confused, so what I’ve said above should probably be discounted.
I love Les Exclusifs but have to say that I do not like Beige, Jersey, Misia and from the description don’t think I would like Boy either.
My 3 to pick: Sycamore, Cuir de Russie, No. 22, with runners up, 31 Rue Cambon/Coromondel.
Many years ago Karl Lagerfeld had a fragrance KL. It was a warm, rich divine scent.
Late to the game. Tried Boy at Saks, told the SA I didn’t get it and she said she didn’t either. My 3 choices are Jersey, Beige, and Bois des Iles. Stickin’ to my guns about Jersey. I find it complex, beautiful, and Chanel-y, unlike a lot of people who can only smell laundry. It opens my heart. I wanted to like Misia but found it sour and renamed it Miserable.