Brief reviews of two recent-ish indie / niche fragrances: Tauerville Tuberose Flash and Vilhelm Parfumerie Purple Fig.
If you've smelled anything recently that we should all know about, do add your own brief review in the comments!
Tauerville Tuberose Flash
When I reviewed Tauer's Sotto La Luna Tuberose, I said "it smells to me like tuberose right away, and it goes on smelling like tuberose straight through, and more so than usual, a blow-by-blow of the proceedings seems pointless". I could say the same of Tuberose Flash, and in fact they do have several things in common besides the starring note: they're both spicy, they both emphasize the mentholated facet of tuberose in the opening, and they both wear basically like soliflores. Tuberose Flash, though, smells brighter and less mysterious, with a milder, paler base that allows more of the floral sweetness to shine through, and makes the jasmine and orange blossom in the heart more obvious (other notes include citrus, patchouli, amber and benzoin). It feels easier to wear — in keeping with the names, Tuberose Flash could be the day time version. I said not to order Sotto La Luna unsniffed, but Tuberose Flash seems a safer bet so long as you're sure you like tuberose.
As with the others in the Flash series, layering experiments are irresistible. Tuberose Flash plays nicely with a very light dab of Incense Flash, if you are so inclined, and it was also lovely over a light layer of Rose Delight body oil.
Tauerville Tuberose Flash is $63 for 30 ml Eau de Parfum; for buying information, see the listing for Tauer Perfumes under Perfume Houses.
Vilhelm Parfumerie Purple Fig
For some notes, like iris and vetiver, my interest is apparently infinite, or nearly so. Others, like fig, maybe not so much. I love fig, but I can't see owning 10 or 20 fig perfumes, in fact, if I could have none other than Diptyque Philosykos, I could live a fine and happy life. Purple Fig, however, would be a definite addition to my small collection were it not for the size (too big) and the price (too much). It's just fun: an overdose of tart lemon, a goodly amount of cassis mingling with the fig, a dry woody base (other notes include angelica seeds, cyclamen, galbanum, cedar and cypress). It's supposed to be about a "lone fig tree on a side street of Cité du Figuier, in Paris, near Rue Oberkampf". I have no relevant experience to share on that subject, but I'd place it on a warm, sunny day somewhere beautiful (and peaceful) on the water, which is pretty much where a fig fragrance ought to take you. Right away I pegged it as the more-fig slash less-effusive-but-still-quite-cheerful second cousin of Byredo Pulp, and I am pretty sure perfumer Jérôme Epinette did both of them (I know he did this one).
Very much worth a try for fig fans, and I will be reaching for my sample frequently to brighten up the dark, dreary winter days ahead.
Vilhelm Parfumerie Purple Fig is $245 for 100 ml Eau de Parfum, and you can find it at Barneys or Liberty of London.
I tried Purple Fig when we were in SF sniffing the other weekend, and quite enjoyed it. But oof, the price…
It’s crazy. They really need to do 15 or 30 ml sizes.
But they’ve figured out that with the plethora of fragrance releases each year repeat business is going to be few and far between. So instead of hoping for three sales of 30 mls. bottles from a customer, they’re going to make you buy 100mls. all at once!
Thanks for reviewing!
Possibly — hard to say what different brands are thinking on this issue. L’Artisan in the old days was one of the few brands selling 15 ml. Now they don’t, but nearly every mainstream brand has started making small sizes and more & more niche lines are doing them in one form or another.
The most recent things that I’ve liked are Chantecaille Le Wild which is a GARDENIA scent, Adjatay which is so perfect on me that I bought it within 10 minutes of applying –big tuberose and worn leather, and Tom Ford Vert D’Encens which is green and oddly comforting (also big). Guess I’m going for big scents these days
Oh, I keep forgetting about Le Wild, glad to hear you like it! Congrats on your bottle of Adjatay.
Oooo, me too with the TF Vert d’Encens! Smells goooood
(I guess “smells good” counts as a brief review?)
It’s the extra os that make it a review…
Of course it does!
Would love to try Purple Fig. I love, love, love a good fig fragrance. I need to find a new one to replace the discontinued Jo Malone Wild Fig & Cassis (which is one of my absolute favorites). Although I like Diptyque’s Philosykos, it doesn’t last very long on me. Purple Fig sounds like it could easily be my new replacement, but like everyone else has said, “that price is crazy to me”!
Might have to see about getting a sample of this one to see if it would satisfy me. Oh, and it would have to layer / combine well with Bath and Body Works “Brown Sugar and Fig”.
It is worth a shot — I’m sorry I don’t know the JM well enough to compare for you!
There are some great cheap figs out there, too. Pacifica’s is decent, and I have always liked Body Time’s Green Fig oil. I don’t think I’ve ever tried one by Demeter but they must make one! Not likely it would last longer than Philosykos though.
Body Time’s Green Fig Oil sounds nice! Thanks Robin.
I am going to second Robin’s recommendation of Pacifica’s Med Fig ….the B& BW Fig is discontinued (until they decide to bring it back is what the SA told me in the store)…..and I don’t know why the JM got axed as that was a good one
Yes, they always bring back the Brown Sugar and Fig during their semi-annual sale each year. I just always stock up on it. I talked to my SA at Jo Malone and she said that the sales were down for that particular scent. It wasn’t selling as projected……blah, bah, blah. I hate it too how the good ones get axed!
I have the Tuberose Flash and Sotto la Luna Tuberose. The Flash is sweeter and more buttery on me, the Sotto is rather greener and less sweet.
Thanks!
O have tried Poisonous Fig by Rising Phoenix and found it to be a very sexy fig. It is spicy, somewhat gourmand but not overly sweet and the fig note is very deep and very realistic. To me it felt like the ultimate forbidden fruit (I am on a second glass of wine while typing this).
Should have said ‘I have tried’ not ‘O have tried’
Thanks, have not tried that one but love the name!
I’m enjoying the April Aromatics exploration set very much. I know you reviewed Ray of Light, the citrus one, last spring and I’d enjoy seeing more of them reviewed.
Tell me which others you love? I have tried Jasmina and liked that one too.
I haven’t tried them all yet – there are 10 in the exploration set, and I have samples of two newer ones, as well. Nectar of Light is the one I like best so far. Several others are in that direction but spicier or woodier. Erdenstern is interesting for being not oriental and the most unisex to me, of those that I’ve tried. I don’t know if guys would like it, but I’d love to smell it on a guy or three.
I liked Jasmina, too, but my heart belongs to SL A la Nuit when it comes to jasmine.
Thanks, will work on getting more samples.