Archives 69 takes its name from the address of the Etat Libre d'Orange flagship boutique, located at 69 Rue des Archives in Paris. Since this is Etat Libre d'Orange, you may be guessing that the name has a double meaning, a specifically sexual one, and you are correct; an entry on the Etat Libre d'Orange blog, complete with alternate label art for Archives 69, makes that point clear. Its text explains, "This is a perfume designed to free the senses, to open the heart to all the possibilities. It is an invitation to pleasure, an ode to seduction. It comes without restrictions, rules or regulations. It is yours to do with as you wish. This is the scent of sensual liberation."
The composition of Archives 69, developed by perfumer Christine Nagel, includes notes of tangerine, pink berries CO2, pepper leaf, orchid & prune JE, incense, camphor, benzoin, patchouli, and musk. Its concept was partially inspired by the short story "Drencula" by French writer Boris Vian, a tale of a young man's encounter with a hermaphroditic vampire, from Vian's collection Écrits Pornographiques. Archives 69 was given the tagline "The Illusion of Sex" in preview materials, and its press release (subtitled "The End of Innocence") includes a lengthy meditation on a nameless female character who embodies many dualities: the sacred and the profane, heaven and hell, pleasure and pain, etc. So, how do this theme and this prose translate into scent?
Archives 69 does pair some opposing notes. For example, it tickles the nose with a hint of pepper in its opening and a distinct metallic edge that runs along the entire composition, but its sharpness is balanced by the smoothness of its woody-incense elements. There's a secretive honeyed-cream note buried in the fragrance's heart, almost like a white flower petal; is this the orchid, or something similar to lily, paired with the benzoin? The fragrance dries down mostly into a warm, hazy musk, neither animalic nor soapy-clean, and still slightly sweet. It's sophisticated, but comfortable. I might be catching certain ingredients and effects that remind me of Nagel's other work (the peppery note of Si Lolita, the mineral-musky part of Narciso Rodriguez for Her), but then again, I might be over-thinking that angle. If Archives 69 were a material or a texture, it would feel (to me) like camel-colored suede coated with a finely shredded veneer of aluminum leaf.
Kevin recently observed, in his review of Sécrétions Magnifiques, that Etat Libre d'Oranges's fragrances are less shocking than their names, descriptions, and artwork would have us believe. For me, this depends on the fragrance in question. Etat Libre's original line-up included scents based on unlikely juxtapositions of jasmine and cigarette smoke, incense and bubble gum, violet-scented face powder and dirty leather; I found many of them unconventional and even unsettling. On the other hand, the Etat Libre fragrances that I personally wear are smart and unusual but not exactly provocative (Noël au Balcon, Vraie Blonde and, most of all, Like This).
Archives 69 fits the latter category. It's androgynous, it's almost tactile, and it treads an intriguing line between natural and synthetic effects, but it doesn't feel transgressive. It would be wearable in many workplace situations, since it's not at all overpowering, either. I can't help thinking that Archives 69 would be a best-seller for Calvin Klein or Gucci or some other line that markets fragrance as high-end sex. (Too bad their own products are often so dull; Etat Libre did a much better job with the concept, even if the result isn't as wild as promised.) If you're really in the mood for something a little dirty and raunchy, you should probably stick with Kiehl's Original Musk Blend No. 1, Serge Lutens Muscs Koublaï Khan, or yes, Sécrétions Magnifiques. But if you think you might like a sophisticated and contemporary skin scent with just a hint of something edible (the vanillic benzoin note, that is!), then Archives 69 should be on your "to try" list.
Etat Libre d'Orange Archives 69 is available as 50 ml Eau de Parfum ($99). For purchasing information, see the listing for Etat Libre d'Orange under Perfume Houses.
I spent all of 15 minutes with this before I sent off my sample, but I was intrigued enough that I’m going to try to get another. Maybe I’ll love Noel too, and then I’ll have to eat my words about the brand not suiting me…
Robin, I can imagine you liking Archives 69, although Noel might be a little more candied-spicy-orange than you usually enjoy, but hey, I could be completely wrong in my assumptions!
Also, jeez, I didn’t realize this review was so long until I saw it laid out on this page. Well, the perfume/sex topic is a big one.
R/J: this smelled like a cleaned-up Secretions Magnifiques to me…metal, sickening fruit aroma, cheap musk still there however. If I had not smelled and drenched myself in S.M. I wonder if I would have been so put off by THIS one…too many bad memories!
Poor Kevin!! I enjoyed your review, though…
I bought a bottle blind a few weeks ago. The only aspect I don’t enjoy 100% is the previously described camphor note which adds a slight bitter ‘cough-syrup-like’ accord that pokes out at times. It’s far from a scrubber, though.
Hi Jessica.
I enjoyed your review.
I was able to sample 69 about 2 weeks ago and I sampled it for two days. It showed promise in the opening notes but then an odd note shows up in the background – maybe it’s the camphor note(?), well whatever it was really bothered my sniffer. There’s a similar note in Annick Goutal Vanille Exquise that is bigger but smells like the note in 69 that bothers me. It’s a prickly note. I don’t know how else to describe. —- As a side note, 69 & Vanille Exquise smell nothing alike. I don’t want to give that impression. They just share that similar prickly note.
IMO and to my nose and on my skin, I found the vibe similar to the Escentric Molecules line. They have the same airy woody vibe.
Have a great weekend everyone!
~Dawn
Hi, Dawnkana — I know what you mean about that prickly note. I think it’s the camphor, too. It’s the part that feels “metallic” to me. I thought it made the “airy-woody” part more interesting, but I can see how it might bother some other wearers a little bit!
Yes, definitely on the metallic side.
I agree with you that 69 is unoffensive and can be worn in the office.
I really liked how you described it as treading the line between natural and synthetic. You nailed it!
~Dawn
I get the prickly note too, less in Archives 69 than in Vanille Exquise, and I’ve tracked down the culprit: it’s a woody-ambery molecule that goes by different names depending on the labs — Karanal is one of them. I also find it in Portrait of a Lady.
I find Archives 69 to be quite a smooth shape-shifter and as you say Jessica, certainly not the type of scent that would cause offence in most public situations. Actually quite elegant, like a lot of Christine Nagel’s work.
Oh, I like that phrase: “smooth shape-shifter”!
This sounds like a must try for me, I like their scents, Secretions and the Tilda S one are my faves
Ah, well then, you definitely should try it!
I’m not sure what this says about my maturity level, but I had a good chuckle when I read that it’s partially inspired by “a tale of a young man’s encounter with a hermaphroditic vampire.” Much funnier than reading a Hermes or Guerlain staid description about inspiration from a beautiful garden or exotic locale or whatever.
Rodelinda, you’re right, it’s certainly not the same old thing! lol.
Here’s the owner/creator of ELd’O discussing Archives 69, with a mention of the Vian story:
https://nstperfume.com/2011/01/21/a-little-bit-edgy-but-beautiful/
I suspect that this hermaphroditic vampire claim is more true that the 100 different fragrances claiming to have been Princess Grace of Monaco’s one signature scent.
Hah, indeed!!
Good one, Dilana! And the corollary is that it’s probably just as accurate as ANY of the other marketing claims out there, LOL!
Love the review Jessica and this certainly does sound worth a try! Like This is my only ELdO love so far, but I have been wanting to explore the line more. The ‘metallic edge’ concerns me a little – I’m a little hesitant about that aspect, but everything else sounds appealing and tempting.
RusticDove, the part that feels “metallic” to me is minor compared to the airy woods and the sweet musk — it doesn’t dominate, although it peeks out from time to time.
Wait, which ELd’O smells of violet poweder and dirty leather?? How did I miss that one?
Also, I finally got around to ordering SL Muscs Koublai Khan and I am sorry to say that I am in LUST!!! lol I have absolutely have to have a bottle of this.
Jeeze, could there be more mistakes in my one short post? *sigh*
Putain des Palaces. It’s my favorite ELd’O so far. If you like powder, violets and leather, it’s definitely worth a try!
Probably mine too (though I much prefer the similar, and to my nose raunchier, Juliet Has a Gun Citizen Queen).
Haven’t tried any JHAG, mostly due to lack of access. Off to put Citizen Queen in my TPC basket. Thanks, mals!
Thanks, Rodelinda! I am usually a big fan of anything floral/powdery with leather.
Thanks for reviewing this, Jessica! Also love your noting how well this would have done with “Calvin Klein or Gucci or some other line that markets fragrance as high-end sex” LOL!
It’s odd how few Nagel scents I’ve tried, given that I own and enjoy Armani Prive Ambre Soie, Theorema and Mauboussin. I should really try Archives 69 and many more of her others.
Noz, I am a fan of CK Obsession… too many people were wearing too much of it in the 80s, but now I appreciate it! Very sensual. However, the more recent releases from some of these brands…? Eh.
Just wonderin: is this perfume going to make me tempting to hermaphroditic vampires, or is it actually going to turn me into one?
Merlin, I haven’t experienced either side effect yet… but I’ll keep you posted.
Either option does sound rather fun!
Etat Libre d’Orange reminds me of the old Spy magazine article “If Senate Were Run by Teenage Girls”, except it’s “If a Perfume Company Were Run by Teenage Boys”. Fortunately, their talented perfumers are wily enough to tell them that their latest offering is too hot for words and then the actual perfumes are okay, rather than expensive versions of Axe…
Signed,
Mrs. Matthew Broderick
(viz. Spy article…)
I am becoming fascinated by this perfume. It is so feminine and almost childish in nature…it reminds me of little minted musk lollies. I get an overwhelming amount of musk (with a hint of vanilla and benzoin) and very little else. It is becoming an addiction for me, and I am seriously contemplating buying a full bottle as I have a voucher for £25 of a full bottle of one of their products. I am tossing up between this one and putain de palace.