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Browsing by author: Jessica

Essential Parfums Neroli Botanica, Regime des Fleurs Nitesurf Neroli & Donna Karan Cashmere & Tunisian Neroli ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 2 June 2026 3 Comments

In spring and early summer, neroli feels particularly right to me. Lightly floral, just a touch citrusy, bright and never too heavy, it’s a perfect accompaniment to unpredictable weather and my current variable daily schedule of work and play. When someone asks me what my favorite perfume notes are, I always mention rose, and often add violet, iris and carnation, but I somehow tend to forget about neroli — but when I look at my perfume shelves, I realize I have quite a few neroli-centered favorites. Here are my thoughts on three launched in 2024, which was practically yesterday (in my mind, at least) so they all still feel “new” to me. 

On a recent scent-browsing expedition, for example, I came across Essential Parfums Néroli Botanica (shown above). I have to admit I’m not familiar with Essential Parfums (too many brands, so little time), although it was founded in 2018 “to democratize access to fine perfumery while honoring the artistry of perfumers.” Néroli Botanica, Essential Parfums’ tenth release, is credited to perfumer Anne Flipo…

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DSH Perfumes Snow Angels, Kelly + Jones Chardonnay Disco & Jazmin Sarai Fruitful ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 22 December 2025 2 Comments

There’s a certain pleasure to be had in following a favorite artisanal perfume brand over an extended period of time, just like following a musician or visual artist or film director whose work means a lot to you. You can see their work evolve, recognize certain recurring themes or motifs, watch them trace new paths. Lately, I’ve been regularly wearing recent releases from three artisanal perfumers whose work I’ve followed for years. All three have turned out to be mood-boosters for me, in different ways, and I’m appreciating these tiny vials of optimism at the end of a tricky and unpredictable year.

Snow Angels is Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s twenty-fifth holiday fragrance as DSH Perfumes. I’m partial to a few of her previous holiday releases (including Pomegranate Rouge, Ruby Candlelight and Winter White) so I looked forward to trying this one…

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Ormonde Jayne Vanille des Afriques Intensivo, Babylonia & Xi’an ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 4 September 2025 6 Comments

Earlier this week I heard that MakeupAlley.com, the message board and online community founded in 1999, is shutting down at the end of September. This news brings out some really deep feelings in me. I created a MakeupAlley.com account in June 2003 hoping to learn more about a newly launched fragrance, and I ended up making so many long-lasting friendships — and, in 2006, finding out about an opening for a writer at this very blog — along the way. 

Even if I hadn’t met so many special people through that site, I still would have learned more about perfume than I ever could have expected — new fragrances, vintage perfumes, everything from drugstore cheapies to cult classics to hard-to-obtain “niche” lines. I certainly learned about Ormonde Jayne on MakeupAlley, because the brand wasn’t available in the United States in those days. I’m not even sure how I did my initial sampling of the “OJ” (as we abbreviated it) fragrances I still know and love, like Ta’if and Champaca. Did another MUA member send me some hand-decanted sample vials in a swap? Or did someone circulate a sample set acquired on a London shopping spree? 

In any case, I’ve kept up with the brand’s doings ever since, and made my own visit to the Ormonde Jayne boutique in London’s Royal Arcade about a year and a half ago…

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Dries Van Noten Camomille Satin, Jordan Samuel Cortile Dolce & Bienaime Fleurs d’Ete ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 11 July 2025 6 Comments

I was doing some errands in midtown Manhattan on a recent weekday, and I decided to step into Saks Fifth Avenue to cool off for a few minutes and smell a few perfumes. Once I arrived on the beauty floor, however, I realized that there aren’t too many things there to tempt me. One exception is the Dries Van Noten counter. This brand is still hard to find in brick-and-mortar stores, and although I’m a fan of its refillable lipsticks and several fragrances (with Raving Rose and Rosa Carnivora leading the way), I still haven’t tried the full line-up. Plus, what if I somehow have some extra cash and want to buy the travel trio set someday? I need to know which three I’d pick.

So I sidled up to the counter and requested a spray of Camomille Satin, mostly just because the bottle is gorgeous, with an upper half of ombré peach glass and a gold-patterned base…

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Vacation Grand Cuvee & Thomas de Monaco Sol Salgado ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 27 June 2025 9 Comments

As I’m writing this review, a “heat dome” is gathering over my part of the world. What better time to test and review two summer-themed fragrance samples that have been waiting patiently on my desk for weeks? Every year, of course, I emphasize that I’m a heat-hater and sun-avoider who craves salt-air scents and suntan oil-inspired fragrances. These two seemed to fit the bill, but I had more luck with one than the other. Just like a long holiday weekend, a fragrance often lives up to expectations but can fall short in other instances.

Thomas de Monaco is what I think of as a “nouveau niche” brand — I tend to confuse it with a few other companies that have men’s names, vaguely similar backstories, and/or packaging that looks like a love child of Byredo and Nasomatto. However, several people recommended this particular brand to me over the past year or two, so I finally focused on it during a visit to an indie fragrance boutique. I sniffed a few ceramic discs that had been pre-spritzed with de Monaco scents, and the one that captured my interest was Sol Salgado (developed by perfumer Maurus Bachmann, 2023). My initial reaction was, “Ooh, beach-y doll-head!” I don’t recall ever thinking before that a beach-y doll-head perfume was something I needed, but inhaling the scent off that tester disc, I had to refrain from purchasing a bottle on the spot…

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