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Browsing by author: Jessica

Ormonde Jayne Vanille des Afriques Intensivo, Babylonia & Xi’an ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 4 September 2025 6 Comments

Earlier this week I heard that MakeupAlley.com, the message board and online community founded in 1999, is shutting down at the end of September. This news brings out some really deep feelings in me. I created a MakeupAlley.com account in June 2003 hoping to learn more about a newly launched fragrance, and I ended up making so many long-lasting friendships — and, in 2006, finding out about an opening for a writer at this very blog — along the way. 

Even if I hadn’t met so many special people through that site, I still would have learned more about perfume than I ever could have expected — new fragrances, vintage perfumes, everything from drugstore cheapies to cult classics to hard-to-obtain “niche” lines. I certainly learned about Ormonde Jayne on MakeupAlley, because the brand wasn’t available in the United States in those days. I’m not even sure how I did my initial sampling of the “OJ” (as we abbreviated it) fragrances I still know and love, like Ta’if and Champaca. Did another MUA member send me some hand-decanted sample vials in a swap? Or did someone circulate a sample set acquired on a London shopping spree? 

In any case, I’ve kept up with the brand’s doings ever since, and made my own visit to the Ormonde Jayne boutique in London’s Royal Arcade about a year and a half ago…

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Dries Van Noten Camomille Satin, Jordan Samuel Cortile Dolce & Bienaime Fleurs d’Ete ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 11 July 2025 6 Comments

I was doing some errands in midtown Manhattan on a recent weekday, and I decided to step into Saks Fifth Avenue to cool off for a few minutes and smell a few perfumes. Once I arrived on the beauty floor, however, I realized that there aren’t too many things there to tempt me. One exception is the Dries Van Noten counter. This brand is still hard to find in brick-and-mortar stores, and although I’m a fan of its refillable lipsticks and several fragrances (with Raving Rose and Rosa Carnivora leading the way), I still haven’t tried the full line-up. Plus, what if I somehow have some extra cash and want to buy the travel trio set someday? I need to know which three I’d pick.

So I sidled up to the counter and requested a spray of Camomille Satin, mostly just because the bottle is gorgeous, with an upper half of ombré peach glass and a gold-patterned base…

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Vacation Grand Cuvee & Thomas de Monaco Sol Salgado ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 27 June 2025 9 Comments

As I’m writing this review, a “heat dome” is gathering over my part of the world. What better time to test and review two summer-themed fragrance samples that have been waiting patiently on my desk for weeks? Every year, of course, I emphasize that I’m a heat-hater and sun-avoider who craves salt-air scents and suntan oil-inspired fragrances. These two seemed to fit the bill, but I had more luck with one than the other. Just like a long holiday weekend, a fragrance often lives up to expectations but can fall short in other instances.

Thomas de Monaco is what I think of as a “nouveau niche” brand — I tend to confuse it with a few other companies that have men’s names, vaguely similar backstories, and/or packaging that looks like a love child of Byredo and Nasomatto. However, several people recommended this particular brand to me over the past year or two, so I finally focused on it during a visit to an indie fragrance boutique. I sniffed a few ceramic discs that had been pre-spritzed with de Monaco scents, and the one that captured my interest was Sol Salgado (developed by perfumer Maurus Bachmann, 2023). My initial reaction was, “Ooh, beach-y doll-head!” I don’t recall ever thinking before that a beach-y doll-head perfume was something I needed, but inhaling the scent off that tester disc, I had to refrain from purchasing a bottle on the spot…

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Eau de Jane, Parfums Quartana Forest of the Golden Dream & Andrea Maack Flux ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 21 March 2025 8 Comments

The author and cultural critic Fran Lebowitz once said, “To put it rather bluntly, I am not the type who wants to go back to the land; I am the type who wants to go back to the hotel.” I share this preference (and many others) with Ms. Lebowitz, and yet every now and then, I do enjoy a walk in the woods…as long as I can easily stroll back to the subway or the bed-and-breakfast when I’m done communing with nature. And if that mood strikes when I’m home in my city dwelling, I can always pick up a perfume that evokes the wild wonder of the forest for a quick hit of arboreal fantasy.

Eau de Jane was released in 2019 and was developed by perfumer Roger Howell…

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Anna Sui Thorn of a Rose, Utopia Mist & Mystic Luna ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 7 February 2025 13 Comments

If you were to travel back in time twenty years or so and see what I was doing on a random weekday afternoon, you might find me browsing at Parfumerie Douglas in West Philadelphia. I might have been buying a nail file or a sparkly hair clip, and I was certainly sniffing my way through the perfume section, especially a shelf holding Sui Dreams, Sui Love and, best of all, Anna Sui’s eponymous debut fragrance from 1999. That powdery rose scent in its black-and-purple, rose-embellished bottle is still a favorite of mine.

Anna Sui recently celebrated the twenty-fifth anniversary of her brand’s foray into fine fragrance by launching a quintet of new scents: the Wild Wonder collection. All five were developed by perfumer Jérôme Épinette, who has worked on Sui’s fragrances since 2017’s Fantasia, and the face of the collection is Scarlett White, the daughter of model and singer-songwriter Karen Elson. Elson herself is a longtime Sui “muse,” and there’s a feeling of generational continuity with the packaging for Wild Wonder, as well: the gilt rosebud cap is shaped just like the black rosebud cap of the original Anna Sui perfume (now known as Anna Sui Classic)…

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