Last month, I walked into my local Sephora, smelled Atelier Cologne's latest, Iris Rebelle, and had a travel spray packaged and paid for within about 5 minutes. Must have been fantastic stuff, you say? Well, it's decent, but I wouldn't go so far as fantastic. If I'd had a sample at home and spent some time with it, it wouldn't even have made my buy list — which, by the way, is a looooong list. There are an awful lot of perfumes I'd much rather own than Iris Rebelle. So why did I buy it?
The long digression, in which I surely repeat things I've said here earlier: My perfume buying habits have changed drastically over the years. In my pre-perfumista days, I generally had a fragrance I wore as a signature; at times, I might have owned two or even as many three fragrances at a time, but that's it, and I usually returned to the same fragrances for periods of years. Over the years, the cast of characters included Diorissimo, Jean Couturier Coriandre, Chanel Cristalle, Yves Saint Laurent Paris, Prescriptives Calyx, Aramis New West (remember that one?), Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose, the original Halston, and probably others that aren't coming to mind at the moment.
Then in 2003, I wandered into MakeupAlley's fragrance board. By the end of the year, I had my first two niche purchases: Parfums de Nicolaï Balle de Match and Diptyque Philosykos. I might have gone on happily with just those two, but I'd gotten the bug, so to speak, and I spent much of 2004 happily — too happily for my wallet — building my collection. Near the end of the year, I decided I'd better restrict myself to 2 new bottles a month, and in 2005, the same year I started Now Smell This, I stuck to 1 bottle a month. Despite that, by 2009, I had more perfume than I'll ever manage to use up, and I started to take my budgeting more seriously. I brought in Donatella to help me keep track of my purchases.
I did get my spending under control, but even then, I started to worry about the sheer number of mls in my cabinet, and at some point, I can't remember when, I decided I would no longer buy any bottles larger than 30 ml, and that I'd go for even smaller sizes when I could. Since small bottles weren't yet as easy to come by as they are now, and since I won't buy rollerballs, that had a big impact, as did the gradual shift to doing more of my general shopping online: like many others in the US, I stopped spending as much time in malls as I used to. That made an obvious dent in spur-of-the-moment buying. In 2013 and 2014, my expenditures were under $150 a year, and then in 2015, I bought nothing at all.
Buying no perfume at all for year was a lot easier than I thought it would be. In 2016, I did buy again, but everything I bought was 15 ml or under, and all of the scents were things I loved. Ditto with my three purchases for 2017: travel sprays of Bruno Fazzolari Lampblack, Narciso by Narciso Rodriguez Eau de Parfum and Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle.
So why did I kick off 2018 by buying a fragrance I had barely smelled and wasn't at all sure I would love? Well, I was stressed, it was winter, I was in a store, it smelled acceptable, it was iris, the box (below right) was pretty, it was small, it was under $30. That's a deadly combination.
So, Iris Rebelle: Atelier Cologne calls it an "inspired blend of fresh iris and lavender enriched with earthy gaiac wood"; other notes include bergamot, orange blossom, black pepper, rose, patchouli and white musk. It's a pleasant, light, powdery fragrance, easy to wear, perhaps not all that rebellious unless you consider the rootier aspects of iris to be rebellious? It is a bit carroty — far too carroty for some, to be sure, but nowhere near the levels of some of my favorites1 — and the dry woods and white musk smooth over the pepper and the earthy elements, and lend a clean edge. It's brighter and cleaner (and less fruity) than the brand's Silver Iris. There is lavender, but it's the usual modern lavender fraction, not spiky at all and you won't likely notice it unless you go looking for it. There is a wispy floral floating through the heart. It's pretty unisex to my nose, and the lasting power is decent enough.
Verdict: It's well done, and if I am not pleased with my purchase, it's only because I already own so many iris fragrances I like far better: for a muted iris, I'd still be more likely to reach for Prada Infusion d'Iris, and when I want carrots, I want Honoré des Prés I Love Les Carottes. (If you want turnips, of course you need Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, although for all I know they've reformulated the turnips right out.) Still, I'll wear it, and the travel spray is convenient. If you don't yet have a spring / summer weight iris, and you like carrots, do give it a shot.
Atelier Cologne Iris Rebelle is $26 for 10 ml, $85 for 30 ml, or $150 for 100 ml Cologne Absolue. It was developed by perfumer Ralf Schwieger.
1. One reviewer on Sephora notes that "Unfortunately I got a baby carrot smell when I smelled this", only to be chastised by a later reviewer: "I don't know why an adult with a nose would say this smells like carrots. It smells like irises." So!
I didn’t like this one…too much carrots. Money saved
Robin, Donatella forgives always!
LOL — Donatella forgives, but she does not reimburse ????
Sephora accepts returns in the original form of payment (even if the item is used) if you have the receipt and it’s within 60 days of purchase.
Key word in their policy is “new or gently used”, and it states 30 days. After 30 days and up to 60 days, they issue a store credit as long as there’s a proof of purchase (reciept). This is for Canada at least.
I like the European policy of, you tried it and sampled it, you decided to buy it, it’s yours.
The consumer is spoiled and too many abuse the “gently used” policy, because they keep exchanging the product for something new and then “gently use” it. I wish there was no such thing as gifts with purchase and all that crapiola either; give associates trouble for a 10 cent made in china bag.
Yes, the policies are different for Canada v. in the U.S. Canada is more strict. U.S. you have sixty days, they allow any returns no matter how used a product is here.
Oh, good point. But then I’d have to drive back to the mall — who knows where that would end, LOL…plus, I did use it to write this review.
So you can write it off as a business expense. 🙂
I immediately fell in love with Iris Rebelle and have a small bottle on its way to me.
Upon smelling it I noticed that it has some similarities to Iris Nazarena, especially the ashy part. Makes perfect sense to me as both Aedes and Atelier Cologne irises were done by Ralph Schwieger.
I got a little bit of carroty vibe too (that reminded me of NVC Ashoka).
I say that it’s an easy to wear and really versatile scent.
I wish what I’d bought had been the Iris Nazarena for $26, ha! Hope you’ll enjoy your bottle.
I know, Aedes is on more pricy side
Aedes is on the pricey side, but I love the hefty bottles and nice sprayers and they last a long time. I also like the fact that Aedes doesn’t glut the market with constant new perfumes. Once or twice a year they come out with a new fragrance, not an army of them.
Yep to all of that. But still wish they were cheaper 🙂
Robin, in my book you had the perfect recipe to justify your purchase. As you said: “You were stressed, it was winter, you were in a store, it smelled acceptable, it was iris”. I do not think you need to add more than that. I am in a serious self-imposed perfume purchase restriction this year, since I need to take care of other responsibilities. However, Slowdive and Iris Rebelle are tempting me greatly and I might get the travel sizes instead of FBs sometime this year. I need to be able to control myself and I already survive January without a single purchase. This year I will not give myself any present for Valatine’s day and I am not expecting to receive any perfumes that day either. I like Iris Rebelle when I sampled it. I did not love it, but being a crazy iris lover…….
I should not go in malls in January or February! But also true that it is a good thing there aren’t a bunch of decent, reasonably priced 10 ml fragrances in Sephora or I’d be in trouble. If Hiram Green line was there, I’d own Moon Bloom at the very least!
Good luck with your own restrictions. I do think it gets easier as time goes by — at least, it did for me.
The fact that it only cost you $26.00 should make you feel better. I know that I have to restrict myself. Plus I am up there in age now and even if I were to live to be 120 (which is not going to happen), and never bought another bottle or sample, I could not use up my vast collection.
The same here. I would never finish my collection no matter how lavishly I spray. At least the ones I most love and enjoy will be worn more and hopefully finished…..The travel sizes are perfect to purchase at this time.
Here’s hoping we both live way longer, and use way more perfume, than we’re expecting Filomena!
My solution to the perfume dilemma is to give away decants. Share the love! ????
And the pretty box! Don’t leave out the pretty box! lol
Enabler! You are not helping! 😀 😀
Enjoyed your perfume-buying digression, the reasons we buy and wear fragrance, or don’t, are fascinating. Staying away from the mall does curb purchases.
I’m looking forward to trying this. Atelier Cologne is one of the first “niche” houses I fell for, though I have not yet bought a bottle! Well, that’s not quite true, I bought a bottle of Bois Blonds. It did not smell as nice as my sample so I returned it.
Perhaps this new iris will be the Atelier for me. Hoping the lavender (love!) will counteract the white musk (ugh, why?!).
I bought 2 bottles in 30 ml right after the brand launched, then gave them both away — they just weren’t that interesting once I’d lived with them for a bit. If I could have two of them in 10 ml now, they would be Mistral Patchouli and Sur le Toit de Paris (which I’m not even sure they still make), but I don’t really need either of those either!
Oh, and it isn’t a white musk bomb at all, don’t worry about that part! But don’t get all excited about the lavender either.
Sous le Toit de Paris is still there
http://www.ateliercologne.eu/sous-le-toit-de-paris-200-ml.html
Aha. Might just not be in the US then.
I think it might be only in their standalone boutiques (but it’s been awhile since I’ve been in one). I was glad I got one of the 30 ml bottles before they stopped selling that size. I would never buy one of the big bottles.
Thanks LizzieB. I probably wouldn’t buy it at all except in 10 ml, so I’m safe!
I agree that the Atelier line is nice but not exciting.
I bought three when the line was new (not all at the same time but during the same year). I have Cedrat Envirment, Orange Sanguine and Rose Anonyme. Thanks for your review on Iris Rebelle because now I won’t crave it. (I too am crazy about iris.)
I too love Mistral Patchouli. The rest are big snoozes. Actually, I like Philtre Ceylon but only tried it once.
Well then just as well I did not try that one, right?
I like it a lot but it’s like Eau d’Hermes for newbies. It has staying power though.
Interesting. Well, I won’t see it I don’t think that collection was in Sephora. Will do myself a favor & not check.
Totally get the impulse purchase, I did the exact same thing two weeks ago, during the deep freeze, only mine was much more costly. After very good behavior in 2017, I suddenly ran out and bought a 4 x 15 ml Hermessence set. I couldn’t even wait for them to get a Rose Ikebana back in stock and took a random Santal Massoïa without really remembering if I like it or not. There, now don’t you feel better? The struggle is real.
I bought a 4 pack (I think in 2016?) after thinking about it, so it only makes me feel a little better — you got way better juice than I did! What are you thinking of the SM now that you’ve brought it home and lived with it?
I like it, luckily. It’s reeeaaallly light (although the lasting power is decent) and I think that’s what kept being from totally in love when it first launched. But I’m not disappointed. I could have taken some back-up Vanille Galante, which I already have 30 ml of, but the thrill of owning something new was too great!
(Sorry for the scrambled word order there. I need stronger tea today, apparently.)
Don’t we all!
Mine was about 2 weeks ago too. I purchased a travel spray of a citrus stories scent at Anthro. Did I love it? No. Total mid-winter, looking to feel better purchase. Glad I’m not alone, and appreciate the honesty on this site, but wonder if I’ll ever learn.
This new Atelier didn’t work for me at all, but I do love their packaging.
The only sense in which I’ve learned is that I’ve stopped actively looking for “cheer-up cheap shopping” — I mostly don’t go to TJ Maxx anymore, which is where I used to dribble through lots of small dollar purchases (that of course all added up) on fragrance.
This is huge! They do indeed add up.
Gee whiz: Where would the American economy be without impulse purchases? I’m really content with my small collection of fragrances. Yes, sometimes I wonder what is out there that I might love but haven’t smelled, yet I can forget all about that with a run to the cabinet and a few whiffs of what’s already in there. Nothing wrong with a bit of retail therapy though, which your small purchase seems to have been.
Quite so, and I am more than happy to contribute to the economy, LOL…I would just rather do it on things that will be used. I splurge on teas and fancy cheese, but those all get consumed. I sometimes splurge on yoga clothing — it all gets worn, even if I paid too much for it. There is something about all that perfume just sitting there! I really should give away more decants, but finding the time — that’s another story.
I totally understand. Last Saturday I bought 4 plates, 4 saucers and 4 salad plates, that I don’t really need, but they have a nice colour and I wasn’t feeling too well, and they were going at half price, so I totally understand this purchase.
I’ve yet to fall in love with an Atelier Cologne, it’s just not my house and after going through the very nice sampler set a couple of years ago I stopped trying their offerings. Mind you, I do love the first few minutes of Orange Sanguine.
Oh, dishes! They are another addiction of mine, but another I’ve mostly conquered. If the itch is too awful, I buy a salad plate — I have a collection of mismatched salad plates that I use as lunch plates.
And yes, OS was one of the 2 I originally bought. Great opening, then blah blah blah.
I mostly like vintage dishes. I have two place settings of several patterns that I saw in antique shops and really liked. I figure since there are only two of us, that is enough.
I like vintage dishes too — and I live in a good place for that kind of vintage shopping.
“If the itch is too awful, I buy a salad plate”
I love that so much ????
You like it better than my husband 😉
Goodnesss, another reason for me to stay out of Anthro is their dishes!
Yeah — I have a lot of small plates from Anthro. It’s the clothes there that got me though — pricey, not always well made. So I stay out of there as much as I can.
Completely understandable…..I was in Ulta for a specific purchase (new hairbrush) and spent a good 15 minutes talking myself out of some Pacifica on sale…..still in the no buy zone for 2018. Not until I use up some of what I currently have, can’t justify another purchase.
Very good luck with your use it up challenge!
Great post Robin! I used to have a terrible habit of buying the biggest size available with perfumes, but doing that just made me so frustrated when I’d fallen out of love with it and still had half a bottle to slog through.
I really wish more brands made travel sizes (15ml and under), and in future I’m more likely to be purchasing from those that do. This one’s going on my to-test list, since all of the beautiful Chanel irises only come in huge, expensive bottles.
It’s disconcerting how many half full 100 ml bottles I have! Even if it costs more per ml to buy a smaller size, it less wasteful.
I have a bad habit of getting really sleepy and ordering 2 bottles of perfume from Fragrance Net, you know, to get the free shipping. I’m going to have to cut that out!
I have very little interest in Iris Rebelle but I’m sure I’ll smell it on a strip eventually.
LOL — love the “really sleepy” part!
The Frangrance Net trap is real…
Mmmm hmmmm. They don’t call it fragrance “net” for nothing
I’ve been waging that same battle over a bottle I want on Notino. What I want is well under the free shipping amount. But it’s such a great deal. ???? I feel my resolve slipping as I type this…..????
Well, I went to Notino today and it seems they no longer offer free shipping, regardless of how much you buy! I put a $150 item in my cart and it listed shipping cost. I also noticed the banner about free shipping over $100 is gone.
That stinks. I can’t believe they changed that. And I can’t imagine why they would. I wonder if their business is so good that they can afford to do it?
What a great lesson Robin, I aspire to your self control. One could go broke even with the decants and samples which add up so quickly (I am finding this out). I’ve got my brakes on already….
So please tell me do you order partial decants like 5mls or so and if so how difficult is it to keep them /use them without turning? I am furiously going thru some of my small 3-5mls decants for fear of evaporation or turning. They are stored in my hubby’s old humidor -w/o humidity and safe in the dark. But I do have a ‘FEW’…….
What do you do if it is not available in 10-30mls? Do without? Multiple dabbers?
I have 2 FB’s that I am dying to own…. but will not purchase another fb this year, I hope. (limit of 1) Help save me, when is our next split meet?
I don’t buy decants anymore, I’ve had WAY too many go bad. Once in a blue moon I do swap for one, or a kind reader sends me one.
And it does help that some stores & brands do send me samples to test, so I don’t have to feel like I miss smelling everything by not buying.
But generally, yes, I do without if something can’t be had in a small size. My wish list is long because it doesn’t see a lot of action — that is, I add to it regularly but rarely buy anything from it. I don’t mind, really. I would say now I look on perfume in a very different way than I used to — it’s an intellectual interest more than a collecting hobby? And when I do buy something, USUALLY it’s something I’ve thought through and know will be loved.
Oh, and splitmeet date will be announced on Saturday!
Oh, those Ateliers. The original set were soooo nice, and I really like the Vanille Incensee (and their soaps! Don’t get me started on their soaps!). But they’ve released so many that just run together in my mind as Citrus-Pop-Poof-Gone!
Your buying digression was the best. You just started in 2003? I’m surprised. I’m sure that I speak for all your readers when I say that we’d love to see a list and some photos of your collection.
My buying issue… it’s Chanel. Which is not really a problem per se. I loooove my Chanels and don’t have many regrets (though I bought a few versions of Chanel 19 edp in various batch codes, hoping to replace my favorite bottle, to no avail). At the moment, I am seriously contemplating if I should buy a back up bottle of L’eau. Which is shocking! I thought it was so boring and awful when I first smelled it, and now I’m totally hooked. It’s in my top 3 most worn frags of the last 6 months. It’s not terribly original, but it’s just so beautiful and happy. I could see myself going through the whole 50ml bottle in the next 5 years.
What say you, nst’ers? Should I get a back up? I only have ONE other back up bottle (vintage Cuir de Russie).
Are you afraid they might d/c it? If that’s the case and you’d be sorely dissapointed if they did, then maybe. Though if you think your bottle will last 5 years, maybe wait a year or 2 and see if the love endures? Going through it in 5 months would be a different story.
I only have one currently for which I’d contemplate a back-up (Idylle Love Blossom). I’ve gone through nearly half in 2 months (a record, really) and it’s still available at some discounters but discontinued. I have no BUBs otherwise.
L’Eau is nice and I also went from meh to like (haven’t bought it, though).
If you’re trying to manage spending, I’d wait on the back up of L’Eau (which I like very much too!) — it’s not going anywhere any time soon, it’s readily available at many stores, and when you finish your first bottle, you can buy a fresh one and not worry about an older back up having lost any notes or nuances. I try to limit back up bottles to well-loved, often-used fragrances that have recently been discontinued and have disappeared/are disappearing from stores. I’m pretty good about that, but I still have a weakness for impulse bargain purchases, lol! I justify those by the fact that I am still learning a LOT about fragrance and I want to try a wide range of things without the limitations of a teeny sample. So far I think I’ve persuaded only myself, but I’m happy!
Beautiful & happy? Absolutely!
Luckily I have not bought any of the soaps. A Mistral Patch soap would be nice.
Thanks for your honesty! It’s inspiring and motivational. I do stress buys from time to time, especially late at night when I should be sleeping. But I have cut way back on sample buying and cheap impulse buys of things I only like well enough. I could definitely stand to spend less and will probably be forced to when I enroll in (and have to pay for) school.
I probably would have bought a travel spray of IR on the spot when I 1st smelled it in the boutique, but fortunately they don’t actually sell that size in the AC stores. I think it probably mingled with something else I had on because when I tested it again at Sephora and took home a sample, it didn’t smell the same as I remembered it-more woody and less warm/powdery maybe? Anyhow, I don’t need it, turns out, and my net AC products remains at a single Rose Anonyme bar of soap which is losing its smell in the shower ????
The soap is losing its scent before the bar is gone? That’s disturbing!
Luckily for me, my late night stress behaviors mostly involve binge watching Acorn TV or Netflix, etc.
Yeah, and the soap doesn’t seem to be shrinking so at least it lasts. It used to perfume the bathroom nicely and it doesn’t anymore, and the bar just smells a little generic now, or like the musky base notes. Lost a lot of its rosiness in the month it’s been open. Bummer. My $1.75 Auromere Himalayan Rose soap is still my best in terms of scent.
Ah, that soap looks nice! More expensive on Amazon but still only $4.99. Where do you buy it?
I bought the $26 10mL travel spray after one sniff because I loved it, perfumath free and even if I have to acknowledge that it is not really free, it is still better value than the 30 mL, which, at $85, is $7 more expensive than 3x the travel spray for the same amount of juice.
On rollerballs, I don’t use this format but I convinced myself that it was OK to buy as it’s cheaper than a large bottle and the rollerball top is easy to pop off to decant the contents into an atomizer.
Nerd Alert!
In terms of price per mL for smaller quantities being more than that of a larger bottle, I came up with a price per mL multiplier to account for anticipated waste or none-use. For example, if you bought a 100 mL bottle because the price per mL is lower than that of a 30 mL bottle, but you know you will only use 85% of the 100 mL bottle, the multiplier = 1 / 0.85 or 1.18. Multiply the 100 mL bottle price per mL and 1.18 and compare the result with the 30 mL price per mL. Use the adjusted numbers to maje your decision. Voila!
Yes. Love the nerd alert adjusted numbers. I mostly buy smaller bottles even if more expensive. Now I have a formula to use!
I also prefer to buy smaller bottles but I also gauge if it’s worth buying the larger bottle to split.
That’s brilliant, hajusuuri!
Thank you nozknoz!
Hey, if you loved it, you were wise to buy it!
And I did not even notice they charged more per ml for the 30 ml size. I guess that’s because it’s a nicer bottle?
Genius! I am always the lured by cheaper per milliliter prices, but recently bought a small tester even though it was only $10 less because I knew I would never use 100 ML – does anyone ever use about 100 ML‘s? Size is absolutely ridiculous for anything other than signature scents or sharing.
I still buy the larger size most of the time because I like the look of a big full bottle. I feel no need to empty them.
Robin, your rules remind me a little bit of one of those diets (like Whole30) that works not because there is any nutritional special magic to the foods that it allows or prohibits, but rather because it is sufficiently inconvenient to eat within the restrictions that one inevitably ends up eating less. For example, one can eat sweet potatoes but not bread, and when was the last time a restaurant brought you a sweet potato basket while you were waiting for your food? But if it works (without being harmful), that’s what matters.
I had to just stop logging on to ebay, because there are always vintage perfumes that I want. No matter how many bottles I own, there is always some treasure that I don’t yet have, and, with deep regret, I am always remembering ones I did not buy, such as an early bell jar of SL La Myrrh. Sigh.
ebay, indeed. If you really want to be disciplined, you have to unsubscribe from certain followed searches as well. Have gotten much stricter with myself, because, so much perfume!
Yes, exactly!
Robin, thanks for sharing this. Your perfume journey parallels mine in that I had 5-7 full bottles in my tiny collection from 1971 to 2008….then I discovered Barbara Herman’s blog, Yesterday’s Perfume and her blog roll lead me into other blogs and I discovered that I could “buy” samples and the rest is history!
And I DO remember New West…it was also a regular in my collection (as was Calyx and Cristalle…both vintage…ONLY vintage). I also remember you saying that you frequently wore Eau de Givenchy (which is a new love of mine).
These days I try to curb the time I spend online reading fragrance blogs as I feel it does create lemmings that I don’t need for where I am financially at this point in my life.
But I also don’t think you should beat yourself up over a “tiny” bit of retail therapy 🙂
Oh, I knew I was forgetting one! I think I wore EdG exclusively for several years. I will have to wear it this week.
And no worries, I am not hardly beating myself up! But “online confession” really does help me stick closer to my goals.
Interesting! I love processing this kind of stuff too.
Once we’re on a track, it’s hard to get off – whether it’s buying track or the no-buy track
I cringe when I think how much I have spent on 1ml samples, and it’s a tiny drop in the bucket compared to my “to smell” list. Seeing it on Excel has woken me up!
YES — writing it all down, that really helps! I keep my buy list and the list of what I’ve actually bought in Evernote. Excel is probably even smarter.