[Update: in 2013, Prescriptives Calyx became Clinique Calyx, the Prescriptives brand having now been phased out by Estee Lauder. It seems to be much fresher and less sparkling than it was, but I have no idea when that happened. Likely it's been reformulated more than once over the years.]
Calyx was the debut fragrance from the skincare and color cosmetics line Prescriptives. It was created by perfumer Sophia Grojsman and launched in 1986; the notes include mandarin, bergamot, passion fruit, mango, guava, spearmint, muguet, lily, jasmine, marigold, melon, rose, cyclamen, raspberry, musk, moss and cedar.
Calyx, along with Eau de Givenchy, was one of my favorite fragrances of the late 1980s, and there were times when I wore it exclusively enough that I might have considered it my signature fragrance had I known that such a concept existed. Later, when I became interested enough in perfume to start looking into which perfumers made what, I was very surprised to discover that it was not only made by Sophia Grojsman — it seems so radically different from her other fragrances — but that she considers it one of her favorite creations:
"It was very crazy, very wild and it opened a whole new category of fragrances," she said. "The company requested something sparkling, exhilarating and new..."
Grojsman recalled that IFF had discovered a fruity new accord — a complex made up of several notes — at about the time she received the assignment. Shortly afterward, she took a trip to Israel, where her room overlooked orange and grapefruit trees. Subsequently these citrus scents infiltrated the fragrance.
"Calyx is my most expressive fragrance," she said. "It showed another side of me. Sometimes when I feel lousy I spray it on and I perk up immediately." (via Women's Wear Daily, 9/4/1992)
Calyx is classified as a fruity floral, but I think of it as a green citrus: it smells mostly like grapefruit and green leaves, with a blur of flowers and fruits in the background and a grounding of mossy pale woods. It would perhaps be more accurate to say that it evokes all of those things, as it has a decidedly synthetic edge and doesn't really smell like anything but itself. To quote Sophia Grojsman again:
"Perfumers are always trying to imitate nature," she said. "But what's natural? God did not produce Chanel No. 5. A perfumer did." (Ibid.)
I would agree that its artifice is part of its charm. Not infrequently I spray on a new perfume and dismiss it as overly synthetic, but I suppose the real problem is that whatever I am trying simply doesn't smell good. Calyx smells wonderful.
At any rate, it starts off quite sharp; as it dries down it softens slightly but it remains very crisp and fresh. It is a casual, day-time fragrance, and as Grojsman notes, it has something very refreshing about it (Prescriptives touted it as "the exhilarating fragrance", and so it is). I was rather worried about trying it again — it is not likely today that I would be attracted to a fragrance with such a preponderance of sweet fruits — but wearing it was like greeting an old friend. It is great stuff.
The lasting power is so-so, as is to be expected, and as I remember it, its shelf-life was not much better: more than once I had to throw out what was left of a bottle and replace it because it had gone stale. Whether this is still true I can't say, but as I had some trouble finding a fresh tester at a Prescriptives counter so that I could try it again, I suspect it might still be a problem.
Calyx can be found at Prescriptives counters at most major department stores, and is also carried at a few of the online perfume discounters.
Sounds wonderful! Exactly what I've been lemming lately, refreshing and crisp. Off to search ebay and discounters.
M, this is one of few that I wouldn't buy except in person, especially after my recent experience of trying testers at numerous Prescriptives counters. I would want to literally open it right away and make sure it was fresh…although given that the testers themselves rarely seem to be, I'm not even sure how you'd know if you'd never tried it.
Calyx smells like the flower of the plant whose leaves are on the advert.
Too complicated?
This “elephant ear” plant, which I have on my garden, has a pod-like flower that smells like pomegranate on steroids and gets to be an intoxicating smell during the summer.
Of course… is not listed in the notes…damn.
I wore it exclusively when it came out. I loved the sparkling fruity notes, which were so different from what I wore previously. I still admire it. I do agree that one has to buy this one in person.
Calyx is definitely fruity and sharp, perhaps meant for blondes only, and gives many in its presence an immediate headache. In the late '80s I knew a redhead female colleague who wore it. Her father detested it, saying she smelled like Juicyfruit gum. She was a vivacious and likeable person, but quickly became aware that Calyx, no matter how judiciously applied, was not particularly welcomed.
I loved Calyx from first sniff, back before I could have classified it as anything other than purty-smellin'. I do agree that it's different enough that I wouldn't recommend buying it unsniffed… one person's green citrus is another person's Juicyfruit gum!;-)
I liked it, too. It was unabashed on so many levels … so modern at the time. Clean and green … I like your revamping of its definition to green citrus. So much more acceptable to my newfound snootiness as a fruity floral hater. Great review. xoxo
I wore this too when it debuted, but I must say I didn't wear it well, and still can't carry off grapefruity scents. So wonderful in the bottle, so sweaty on my body… 🙁
I didn't know those plants were scented…will have to get one now!
V, I remember that they used to have small leaf-shaped purse atomizers — I'd love to find one of those again.
It is very strong on the first spray, so I can understand the headache issue. The hair color thing I have never understood, but I know many believe it.
Same here M, I would have never classified it as anything, and for that matter, I'm sure I couldn't have guessed any of the notes. Even now, I would have said grapefruit and apparently there isn't any — just a “grapefruit accent” from the other notes.
LOL — same newfound snootiness here, M.
I am surprised, K, I wouldn't think this one would turn sweaty on anyone. Chemistry is a funny thing!
Hello Robin. Great blog, so much good info and well laid out. And thanks for reviewing this particular scent, I love Calyx. To me it is a green fruity floral, but not a melony sweet floral like so many out there (Ralph etc). After the first citrus burst dies down, it makes me think of a sweet tart or winegum. I wear this a lot to the office and never get any complaints (just a few compliments), and yes it's very refresing.
Robin, thanks for this mention. My dearest friend lives in GA, we've been friends for over 20 years wears Calyx, always has. It's a nice reminder of her and the fact I'll be seeing her for a week in July.
Thank you, and glad to see another Calyx fan 🙂
What a nice association — hope you'll have a great visit together!
Calyx–green citrus, yes, and a Fruity Floral classic! I still think it's great even if I don't wear it very often, and when I do, it inevitably gets complimented on. I wish it stayed greener on drydown-on me, the ending is all passionfruit.
I really like this – what I get from it is the Passion Fruit, and some grapefruit, two of my favorite smells (and tastes). It is very penetrating, however, and one must use caution in applying it.
Thanks for this “appreciation” review, Robin. I've worn Calyx for years, and it's one of my favorites of all time. I was surprised to read here that it falls into a “fruity floral” category–I agree with you that it is much greener, which is what I love about it.
S, I wish it stayed greener too, although I don't think it lasts long enough on me to end up all passionfruit.
Yes, it is sheer and strong at the same time. I love grapefruit too.
I am not much good at identifying the correct fragrance family — I usually guess wrong 😉
Before I became an at home mom, I had a colleague at work who wore Calyx. I remember this (even though it was many years ago) because it was one of the few times I have asked someone what fragrance they were wearing. I liked it that much.
I will have to try it myself next time I'm around Prescriptives. I bet I'll still like it.
I am not surprised that your first perfume commitment was a Grosman creation. It points to your future as a perfume maven.
I loved this when I sampled it.
R, I love Calyx, too!
I wore it throughout my pregnancy with my nine year old. No wonder he is so sweet–and “sharp” at times, too. LOL!
This is a true classic. Women love to wear it, and I find that both men and women love to smell it. I remember receiving loads of compliments when I wore it.
Thank you for writing about this wonderful “old friend!”
Hugs!
Do try it! But if the tester seems old & half empty, don't be surprised if it smells “off”.
Good 🙂
R, perfect fragrance for pregnancy, actually — and there were few I could stand at the time. Hugs!
I used to wear Calyx in the early nineties, and I remember a man actually crossing the floor of a large department store — wow, either I put a ton on or it has GREAT sillage! — to tell me he HAD to know the name of my fragrance so he could buy it for his wife (no ulterior motive there, so a genuinely positive review!). It's the only fragrance I've ever bought a second bottle of, although I gave that one away to a girl at work a couple of years ago because I'd just had enough. Funny, when I smell it I'm always reminded of the scent of cooking pizza, because the man I was seeing when I wore Calyx lived above a pizza parlour!
That is a great compliment, how nice! I think by the time I was wearing it, most everyone else was too 🙂
I saw this for sale at Ulta last week, tried the tester and loved it. No fruit, just green crispness that was so evocative of Spring that I wished it was March or April so I could wear it.
Isn't that great stuff? I really wish it had a longer shelf life, but it always goes bad before I use it up (that was true even when I wore it almost exclusively) so I don't buy it these days.
Got a bottle of this recently. I really like it. Very refreshing and uplifting. I have put my bottle in the fridge. Just in case.
You know, I should try that…might extend the shelf life quite a bit!
My fridge is full of perfume bottles. Hardly any space left for groceries, well that is an exaggeration. I keep all my Goutals there and a few others. It’s nice especially for the colognes, it makes them extra refreshing in summer.
I tried this on recently too!
i was thinking of getting a bottle…
it’s amazingly sweet and green at the same time.
does putting the perfumes in the fridge help alot?
It can help extend the shelf life, but I haven’t tried it with Calyx.