I should have written this post weeks ago, when we had a brief period of glorious summer weather. Other than that, it's been a rather odd summer, weather-wise, after a rather odd spring. At the moment, we're having the usual heat and humidity you'd expect in August, but far more gray, gloomy days than usual for this time of year, and we seem to be on a daily thunderstorm schedule. But onward and upward: this is the last of my seasonal vanilla posts, since I've already done fall, winter and spring. As always, do chime in with your own picks in the comments!
Diptyque Eau Duelle: The vanilla martini top notes are perfect, and even though I don't love the dry down (a quiet hum of tea and spice) quite as well, Eau Duelle would be my first choice for a vanilla that can take the heat of high summer. It works just fine the rest of the year too, and maybe it's also my first choice for a no-brainer vanilla in general?
Le Labo Vanille 44: Le Labo's city exclusive for Paris is akin to a woody vanilla soda, although as it dries down, it morphs into something more like a sheer skin musk. I adore Vanilla 44 and would love to have a bottle, but I object to the price, and I'm not too fond of the "city exclusive" status either, which makes it harder to buy it even if you want to cough up the big dough. Another option along the "vanilla musk" lines would be the more affordable (although not exactly a cheap thrill) A Lab On Fire Mon Musc à Moi, but you'll have to like clean way more than I do.
Hermès Vanille Galante: A bit of a cheat, since it's not all that vanilla-ish, but there is vanilla, and it is as light and airy as you could wish for.
Berdoues Vânira Moorea: The clear winner here in the packaging department. I'm not sure it's brilliant, though, and you could approximate it by layering another light vanilla with your favorite citrus (in the past, Kevin has suggested a mix of Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensée and Guerlain Eau de Cologne Impériale, and I'm fond of layering almost anything with small dabs of Tauer Vanilla Flash). Still, darned cute bottle and a not-too-terrible price.
Kerosene Unforsaken: I think of Unforsaken as more of a spring fragrance, but if your summers are cooler than mine (or if you're spending most of your time in air conditioning anyway), it might be perfect, and as creamy citrus gourmands go, this one is lighter than most. If it was sold in small bottles, I'd have gone through 2 of them already.
More options: Arquiste The Architect's Club, Eau d'Italie Morn to Dusk
Nice list, Robin. I will have to wear Vanille 44 while it is still yucky and muggy.
I have 2 to add to the summer vanilla list as both are lighter weight but very vanilla with some kind of citrus. YMMV with perception of “lighter weight”:
– Van-Ile Jacques Zolty
– My Inner Islsnd Vaniglia Sopraffina e Rhum (The only stockist, Oficins 189 in Boston, is no longer in business)
Thank you! Of course I want the one I can’t have
+ 1 for Jacques Zolty
and you know I got my decant from you!
I love the small decant I have of the Jacques Zolty. In fact it was one of the perfumes that came to mind for a summer vanilla.
I recently discovered Chopard Vanille de Madagascar (Garden of the Tropics collection). It has bergamotte, matcha tea, orange blossom and vetivier and feels like a really summery vanilla. Not cheap though.
Very good to know that one was decent, I have not yet tried any of the set. Thanks!
Vanilla is not something I usually think about wearing in summer. But I did try the Vanira Moorea earlier this year, and I think I liked it best from all the Berdoues scents that I have tried.
I admit it isn’t on my mind much either, especially in August!
I will second Jalapeno on the Vanira Moorea…I really like it and think it is great year round.
Vanille 44 is just too good. This might be the year I finally buy the 15 ml. (They’re only going to get more expensive, right..?) Or maybe just another sample!
I really need to try Eau Duelle!
It really is good. And yes, I bet the prices will keep rising.
Yes, for me also vanilla tends to be a cooler weather fragrance. But adding Creed Sublime Vanille to this list. And I would have some if I could afford it.
Thanks springpansy!
My next trip to a perfume counter will start with Dyptique. Eau Duelle sounds wonderful.
Whoo-hoo! for Vanille Galante and Vanira Moorea in summer weather. VG really is airy. And VM is delicious, the tangy and sweet are in perfect balance.
My go-to vanillas are Geisha Vanilla Hinoki and Terracotta Le Parfum. Both are fun in summer heat though I like them year round.
Thank you for the year’s worth of vanilla roundups.
It is not my favorite Diptyque, but it is definitely worth trying. I actually like Terracotta Le Parfum much better!
I like Vanilla Hinoki in summer as well (and also year-round.)
I really love the smell (& flavour) of vanilla, but unfortunately it just doesn’t work, & never has, on my skin for whatever reason. It was the same for years with rose (also adore the smell & flavour) until I discovered Rose Green, so am hopeful I’ll find a vanilla equivalent at some point.
A propos of our last exchange, Robin, when I checked the PdN website this morning, the Seymour Street location has been removed, but they have yet to show me the courtesy of a response to my actual email!
Wow, that’s crappy customer service!
Indeed it is, equalled or perhaps even surpassed by the service (or lack thereof!) I received in Creed’s ‘flagship store’ in Mount Street in Mayfair when I popped in for a look. Perhaps I didn’t look the part – jeans, sensible shoes for lots of walking, linen blouse, small Dooney & Bourke bag (a brand not known on this side of the pond) – unlike the response I got from the ladies in the neighbouring Georg Jensen shop, but then I was wearing GJ vintage earrings, which their staff obviously recognised right away (my husband, ever the cynic, suggested the GJ response was because although I might have looked like cr*p from the neck down, from the neck up I obviously had excellent taste & the financial wherewithal to indulge that taste!).
I find it endlessly fascinating how SAs “read” people…I think because of the wild variations of service and attention I get even inside the same department store on the same day, and the assumptions that get tied up in appearance and posture (perhaps not the right word… presence, maybe?)
(but that is seriously rubbish from both Creed and PdN.)
I am either amused or annoyed by such behaviour – amused if I really am just having a look with no intention of buying, annoyed when I really do want to buy something but end up cutting off my nose to spite my face & not doing so because of the disdainful “you don’t look as if you can afford it so I’m not going to engage with you” attitude. But yes, you’re so right, it is fascinating nonetheless!
My own snobberies — I would expect it from Creed, but not from PdN.
Your take on Creed is interesting – not the first person I’ve heard say this, by any means.
I will add a few more of my favorites- Pacifica Island Vanilla, Pacifica Vanilla Vera Cruz and Pacifica Indian Coconut Nectar which has a hefty dose of vanilla in it. Three more which smell amazing on the middle Marzipan Vanille Abricot (which I did not think would work in the summer but it does!), Pink Sugar and Vanira Moorea. And while not a pure vanilla will also add St Claire Scents First Cut which has a sweetness to it that I attribute to the vanilla absolute. And finally, Winter Woods which I adore in the summer….does not list vanilla in the notes but I smell it…Laurie tells me it is my nose picking up the sweet amber.
and I just thought of one more- Jo Malone Ginger Biscuit
AND andshewaz reminded me that I have been enjoying my homemade vanilla bean body oil as an all over moisturizer at night this summer.
And Jo Malone Vanille & Anise, but like the Pacificas, that one is discontinued.
Ah yes!!!!! That is a great vanilla as well! But Island Vanilla and Indian Coconut Nectar are still on the Pacifica website…at least when I last checked
Thanks, I thought they were gone!
Song of India Vanilla essential oil is perfect for summer.It is a true vanilla skin scent that can be layered with other scents very well.It layers well with green tea scents in particular.
Library of Flowers True Vanilla is also a nice true vanilla scent that layers well for summer.
Thanks andshewaz, I have not tried either one!
I’ll add Jo Malone Vanilla & Anise and Maison Margiela Replica By the Fireplace. Though the name is counter to a summer perfume and I haven’t worn it out in heat yet, I can see it working well. I’ll have to take it for a spin on a warm day.
Yes, I would have mentioned the JM but it’s not in production.
But I’ll have to test the MM again, I did not remember it having so much vanilla, thanks!
Dame Perfumery’s Black Flower Mexican Vanilla. Heat makes it bloom very nicely. I only have the perfume oil version (the only version Dame makes available for export) but it’s become a summer staple.
I’m late to the party, but since people do look up these seasonal/note posts later, I’ll note that L’AP Vanille Absolument is terrific for summer. It’s discontinued but can still be found on ebay at reasonable prices.
Sadly, real vanilla is now restricted by IFRA — which is a good excuse to buy now! ????
You certainly did your homework….very good list.
Gunne Sax Vintage Vanilla Perfume by Jessica Mcclintock is also a nice one.