If you're in the northern hemisphere, there's a decent chance you've already entered that part of summer known as the dog days. The hot, humid weather was traditionally expected to last around 40 days, but where I live, we've surely already had 40 days of sticky, and we could easily have 40 more before it's over.
I'm not complaining, or at least, I'm not complaining as much as I'd be complaining if it was cold out. I'll always take hot over cold. But this is just the sort of weather that calls for a classic Eau de Cologne: a little concoction of citrus and flowers, perhaps a few spices, perhaps some oakmoss or amber. It won't last long, but it will lift up your spirits while it does, and you can always reapply later or move onto something else. Here are five choices, although I've (of course) expanded the definition of a classic Eau de Cologne a wee tad.
Eau de Guerlain: an old favorite of mine, and one I've managed to sneak onto more list posts than I can count. When I reviewed it, I said that it "smells like a summer day: earthy and grassy and mossy and fresh", but if you don't like aromatic herbs and oakmoss, it may not suit you. Kevin prefers Guerlain's sour citrus masterpiece Eau de Cologne Impériale.
Chanel Eau de Cologne: the newest on this list (it came out in 2006), but entirely old school in spirit, Chanel's version of a classic cologne is very much a crowd pleaser (nearly everyone loves it) but it isn't cheap (not everyone will want to pay $165 for the smaller 75 ml bottle). As you'd expect from Chanel, it's conservative and well-made.
Christian Dior Eau Sauvage ~ one of the all time great citrus chypres, and thankfully only slightly modernized in its current formulation. I'll steal Erin's words from 5 Perfumes for: a Summer Cocktail: Eau Sauvage is "the best remedy for a malarial afternoon."
Eau de Rochas ~ if many colognes are too sprightly and insignificant for you, the warmer base of Eau de Rochas might be just what you want. As Angie says, "Instead of the through and through fresh — almost brutally fresh — feel of so many colognes, Eau de Rochas recognizes that after splashing it on you might want to settle on the porch in summer with a book or work in the garden rather than speed to the tennis court."
L'Artisan Parfumeur L'Eau de L'Artisan ~ I've already mapped out 5 modern colognes for a follow-up on Friday, and L'Eau de L'Artisan (1993) makes a perfect transitional choice. It's citrus, it's fresh, it's green, and it wears just a like a cologne; the seaweed-y / seawater notes give it a bit of a twist without carrying it full-on into aquatic territory.
As always, do add your picks in the comments!
Note: top image is Orange [cropped] by Rego Korosi at flickr; some rights reserved.
Ahhh great post – I have been wishing I knew more about colognes lately (I know almost nothing) so thank you for this!
Ah, then so many others you must try as well! I felt bad not including Annick Goutal Hadrien and Hermes Eau d’Orange Verte.
Hey, you just did:). Hadrien is a good one, for a citrus
Ha, so I did
Not really into citrus but I’d grab the Chanel if I wanted some. Or some Annick Goutal..which line I’d say is timeless rather than old school. And this limited, disco’d scent named Limed by Mad Hat..yummy.
What about Sous le Vent? Classic carnations with bergamot..such good stuff that I will never own
“Limed by Mad Hat” is a great name!
It’s a good smell..lime, coconut, woody..and not in production anymore but samples can be found on stc last time I checked
I adore colognes and they are well represented in my collection. The one I like but will never own is the Chanel. Way too expensive. I’m sure it’s made with very good ingredients but it just doesn’t excite me.
My favourite of the Guerlain quartet is Eau de Guerlain, a summer meadow in a bottle, slight breeze included, Impériale is my 2nd favourite btw.
A recent very pleasant surprise has been the Bien-être line: Eau parfumée pour la famille is the best known. I also got a bottle of their Essences Fraîches. 2, 250 ml bottles for the grand total of 11€ at a French supermarket. And they smell great!
It’s too spendy for me too, but also don’t feel a great need for it — it is maybe a bit too conservative for me.
Will have to look at Bien-être.
http://boisdejasmin.com/2012/08/bien-etre-leau-parfumee-des-familles-french-pharmacy-discovery-and-review.html
V. put me on to it. I don’t know if the line is easily found in the US.
Thanks!
On those “malarial” days, put a bottle in the fridge.
Good point!
I always enjoy these summer posts, even if I hate summer. (Really. I do. I suspect that if a kid comes down with raging chicken pox at the beginning of a week of 100F+ temperatures, with no air-conditioner in sight, hatred of summer might be understandable throughout that kid’s life.)
After all this time, I still Don’t Do Colognes – in the same way that I Don’t Do Patchouli-Based Frags, and I Don’t Do Big Heavy Orientals. I mean, in the sense that life is short and I only have so much skin time, and why not wear something I *really* like instead? You guys go ahead and enjoy those cologne things, I’ll sit here and pray for October. Go ahead and waft my way every now and then, I’ll find that pleasant.
I have a 30ml decant of 4711 that sits in the fridge. It’s sat in the fridge since, oh, 2010, and I think I’ve used it maybe three times in ultra-muggy miserable weather. It’s nice. But so is putting a cold wet washcloth on the back of my neck, and that is practically free.
I also suspect that citrus florals are my version of colognes.
Which citrus florals would you recommend?
I can throw a couple of my favorites out for a mention – Guerlain AA Pamplelune, if you can manage the cat pee grapefruit/blackcurrant (I can, I love it). Moschino Funny! which is something along the same lines but maybe a bit drier, with tea. L’eau de Chloe, which I keep wishing I had a mini bottle of, and the similar Penhaligon’s Eau Sans Pareil. (Those all seem to be citrus-roses. Well, I suppose you can see where my tastes lean.
)
Oh – and Tommy Girl. #notsorry. It is a huge pick-me-up and always smells clean without being laundry musky (it’s probably there but I don’t get much of it). Other people were recommending Versace Versense, and I liked that one too (from a sample, so I don’t have experience actually wearing it).
It’s funny — can’t remember what season it was when I had chickpox, or German measles which I seem to remember was worse. But I certainly did not have a/c for either of them! Nor did much of anybody we knew.
True, it was the 70s. Nobody except Floridians and maybe some people on the WEst Coast had AC.
But muggy, lord! it was muggy.
That’s what basements were for! We’d spend all our time when it got too hot playing in the basement- roller skates, bikes, whatever. It was relief for sure.
I also am not a big fan of citrus but Versace Versense is very refreshing.
Agree!
Eau de Rochas Homme is another great cologne with some cedar and myrrh in the drydown. Clarins Eau Dynamisante, O de Lancome, and Dior Eau Fraiche would also be on my list of fave old school colognes (and Guerlain Eau de Coq, which is my favorite of the Guerlain colognes).
I have not tried the Homme version, thanks!
I’m voting up the O de Lancolm
I love O d’Lancome, although I suppose its technically an EDT rather than a cologne.
I think it qualifies as a cologne. Most “Eau de Cologne” are really EdTs, I don’t think of it as just a concentration issue.
Ugh, I will take the cold all day long over the heat. It’s currently 93 degrees and raining here, and while I am very grateful for the rain, it is beyond disgustingly uncomfortable, and will only get worse when we get back to 102 in an hour or so. I sit in solidarity with Mals, as we endure the hell that is summer in the South.
The Bvlgari green tea is the closest thing I have to a cologne and I wear the heck out of it this time of year.
It’s a great scent and worth wearing the heck out of
I really must try Eau de Guerlain, Eau de Cologne Imperiale and Eau de Rochas. I have samples, and now is just the right time to use them.
Yesterday I tried Annick Goutal Eau du Sud and loved it – it is an incredibly refreshing combination of citruses, herbs and moss.
The colognes and “cologne-like” fragrances I find very suitable for hot days: Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterreneo Mirto Di Panarea, Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien, Carthusia Mediterraneo, Chanel Les Exclusifs de Chanel Eau de Cologne (from your list), Hermes Un Jardin sur le Nil (not a cologne at all, but I wanted to include it), Jo Malone Verbenas of Provence, Ginestet Sauvignon, Maurer & Wirtz 4711 Original Eau de Cologne.
I haven’t heard this one mentioned before: Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterreneo Mirto Di Panarea.
Must seek it out!
Oh, you know – I actually liked that one. Had a largeish sample and took it to Malta a couple of years ago on a vacation, where I used it up.
Hadrien seems to be the universal favorite, but I like Sud much better. Have not smelled a new bottle in years though, no idea if they’ve reformulated it.
I sniffed them both recently from fresh bottles and Sud has survived better than Hadrien to my nose. In both cases I could tell that the citrus is different; more diffuse and less complicated somehow, like a fraction or synthetic or? Neither is dreadful, but the basil in Sud keeps the whole business farther away from Pledge territory that Hadrien occupies now.
Thanks, glad to hear it.
Citrus is almost never what it was, some of which is due to IFRA and some of which might be cost issues, I don’t know.
I like Sud much better too.
Good list! I love Eau de Sud as well.
I’m putting on O de Lancome in honor of this post! The classic cologne I truly love, though, is Astier de Villatte Eau Chic, which Kevin reviewed:
https://nstperfume.com/2010/07/07/astier-de-villatte-eau-chic-fragrance-review/
I wish that line wasn’t impossible to find in the U.S.; I’d like to try all their fragrances.
I really did thing that by now they’d have been distributed here.
It appears that Osswald has Eau Fugace and Eau de Cologne. It’s a start.
Oh, then I stand corrected, thanks!
you know I really like that income trio..Orangerie is my fave
Lancome not income dumb auto
Colognes are so refreshing. For this summer hater, it is a welcome respite from oppressive heat and humidity. I really think summer should last one day only just to check the box of cycling through the 4 seasons.
I have yet to try Eau de Guerlain, Eau de Rochas and the L’AP. While I like the Chanel, I would rather redirect the funds to other more worthy perfumes.
One of my favorite colognes is Atelier Cologne Sous le toit de Paris. Cedrat Enivrant comes a close second.
Ha, and I would take a 1 day winter
When it gets exceptionally hot, colognes are all I can bear – but I have to say, I enjoy many of them in winter too. Citrus is always uplifting to me, and when I’m sniffy it makes me feel a bit better – as if I’m imbibing vitamin C through my nose
Also, warmer, snuggly fragrances can make me feel dopey, while more bracing ones make me feel like I’m on the game…
Not sure if it fits genre wise but Guerlain’s vetiver is right at the top for me, with its lemon, tangy vetiver and tobacco nuances. Like Eau de Rochas, it has some heft! From the Guerlain bee-hive colognes, I enjoy Cologne du Parfumeur – though admittedly the most awesome part (mouth-watering citrus) lasts only about 15 minutes, and then its a sweet/soapy/white musk. The 3rd Guerlain I would nominate is Pampelune…
Also, I lately discovered Eau de Givenchy. Despite the name it may be too complex on the floral front to be called a cologne? Honey-suckle and powdery iris make me admit that just maybe maybe, older perfumery really was better?
And then there is Crabtree & Evelynn’s Tarocco Orange Eucalyptus and Sage. It may not have the finest lineage – but this stuff is GOOD!
I need to try that C&E. And still have not tried Cologne du Parfumeur! But doesn’t sound like I’d like it if it ends on soapy white musk.
I consider Guerlain’s Vetiver to be just about one step ahead of a cologne in concentration, but certainly having the uplifting and refreshing effect of a true edc. I’m wearing it a lot this summer.
Nice list! I’m with Mals and Jolie, not a fan of summer. At least not here in DC. I’d probably enjoy it more in San Diego or Colorado, but it’s awful here. I do love summer colognes though. My favorite hot weather perfume is Jardin Sur la Nil. It’s so light and crisp!
As someone who grew up in MD and lives in San Diego now, yes you would
Oh, ugh, summer in DC. Been there, sweated through that.
JslN is nice.
Even San Diego’s summer is not what it used to be, but yes, beats DC
It’s been a weird one this year for sure – extremely humid and even some thunderstorms. I enjoyed the thunder since it is so rare. To people complaining about the humidity, I was like imagine if it was 20 degrees hotter and this humid! All summer! We have it good for sure.
When I first moved to SD in the 80s, people who had lived there all their lives complained all the time about how much more humid it was in the summers then it ever had been when they were kids. I was from DC, so of course I thought they were insane — it was not what I called humid
So glad you mentioned Eau de Rochas. I’ve just blind bought it from a Facebook friend. It’s winter where I live but I’m certain that this purchase will hasten summer. Won’t it?
Eau de Givenchy has been a summer staple for years, even though its current formulation (or has it been d/c at last?) is a bit drier than I’d like.
I don’t own O de Lancome but it seems very, very mossy to me. Dunno how they achieve that these days. The thing about old school colognes is (was) their clean/dirty vibe. Summer fragrances these days are just clean/clean. And then more clean, in case you weren’t feeling clean enough.
Oh, absolutely, summer is just around the corner then
I love colognes and that is all I use during summer time. There are so many that I love, my absolute favorites are AG Eau d’Hadrien, Chanel eau de cologne, Guerlain eau de fleurs de cédrat, CdG cologne citrico and also FM eau de magnolia and Clarins eau dynamisante.
That CdG cologne series does not get as much attention as it should, glad you brought it up. The prices are decent too.
Eau Dynamisante is great!!!
Another summer-hater here. I live for those first few crisp days in the fall when I feel as if I’m alive again.
But I loves me some cologne! Aside from 4711, which is lovely but at the extreme end of fleeting, what I wear as cologne is more like EDT. Big fan of Hermes Gentian Blanche and Un Jardin Sur Le Toit, Atelier Cologne Mistral Patchouli and Trefle Pur, and some new loves–Miller Harris Fleur de Sel and Miller et Bertaux Green, Green, and Green (have even come to terms with the swampwater drydown).
This year I’ve also put a spray bottle of diluted rosewater and essential oil in the fridge and spritz it on when I come in from outside. Been meaning to do this for years, and don’t know why I waited so long–very refreshing and very inexpensive!
I used to keep some plain rosewater in the fridge, but have been out for ages, I should get more.
What perfect timing for this post! I’ve only tried the L’Eau de L’Artisan – lovely stuff – and need to remedy having not sniffed the rest! I’ve been wearing lots of AdP Colonia this summer, and have spritzed on CDG Play: Black more than I care to admit as well… the citrus bite sticks around very well, which is perfect this time of year, and I get no incense whatsoever, though it’s listed as a note!
Colonia is a classic too — and Play: Black would fit perfectly into Friday’s post on modern colognes.
Great summer post, and great if you’re slightly under the weather.
Cristalle Eau Verte is more of a cologne than an EdT for me, and Cristalle EdT as well. Love those, as well as Eau du Sud. Another one I can spray with abandon is Terre d’Hermes Eau tres Fraiche, lovely citrus in the top. And I am testing Oyedo today, which I think qualifies as well, very nice and refreshing and I hope it has some longevity.
All fantastic picks!
I consider Cristalle edt an eau de cologne for my purposes. I wear it a lot in the summer and it is always refreshing.
I love EdCs! I give a lot of love to the Goutals of the world for the summer: Mandragore edt, Eau de Sud, Eau d’Hadrien, Ninfeo Mio, Le Chevrefeuille- anything of hers with a massive citrus or bergamot opening. I like Chanel’s Eau de Cologne very much, but not enough to buy a bottle, when so many other’s do the trick. I wear Dior’s Escale a Pondichery and Portofino a lot – Portofino is especially good before an evening in the garden: the citrus is so strong it scares the bugs away, lol! I love Guerlain Eau Imperiale, but I’ve not tested the original Eau de Colonge yet, and I’m sure I’d like it. I also wear Cristalle edt, and Guerlain Vetiver a lot even though they are not edcs – they get there very well for being totally refreshing. The Kenzo Flower La Cologne is excellent powdery OB that wears like a gauze dress, and is very well done. I think the best edc ever is the Colonge a la Francaise by Institute Tres Bien. I am very, very fortunate to have a large decant of it, and someday I’ll spring and get a real bottle. I also keep 4711 in the fridge and use it for all kinds of applications, including room spray and foot spray, lol!
Was so happy to see Institut Tres Bien come back, but they don’t appear to have much distribution. I loved the Russe, which is still the only substitute I know for Crown Eau de Russe.
My top two picks would be Monsieur Balmain(not sure if it really IS a cologne)but that bitter lemony freshness lifts my mood and refreshes me instantly in the heat!Number two:Shalimar eau de Cologne;wait what:an oriental-ish perfume-cologne??Hell yes!Toned down the skanky bits and added yummy lemon vanilla:Instant love on a hot,sultry,dare I say sexy summer evening?Oh yes.
Kevin loves Monsieur Balmain too
So fascinated to realise that I am not the only lifelong fan of Eau de Rochas and certainly remember that it was originally called Eau de Roche.
I have been wearing this cologne for fifty years and still love it. I adore the lingering smell that it leaves on my clothes!
When I was fourteen years old I went on a foreign exchange trip to Paris… in the bathroom cupboard was a small sample bottle of Eau de Roche and I tried some… I adored it…. and I stole it! I felt so guilty but I was clearly addicted from that time and continue to purchase regularly and use daily, including the body cream and the bath/shower gel. Sadly, the deodorants are no longer available, or the soap.
I have strayed over the years and occasionally bought Eau Sauvage, a few of the Sisley range and Hermes Eau d’Orange Vert, but I always come back to Eau de Rochas.
I am lucky to live in Spain where I can buy at great prices, often gift boxes with extra large bottles so I can afford to splash on every day.
The only other Eau de Parfum that would tempt me away from this would be Tom Ford Neroli Portofino but it is hugely more expensive.
Yes, it is a shame about the cheaper packaging and plastic lids but at least the perfume remains the same and I feel lucky that it is still so affordable. I detest the way that customers fall for the hype around brands and that they are so easily seduced by “names”.
I honestly thought that I was the only person who loved Eau De Rochas!