It's April, and we ought to be having spring weather, but so far, it's been elusive at best, at least in my neck of the woods. After a warmer than usual winter, we're having a colder than usual spring (I've got my heat on today, again). All the same, it's time for the spring vetiver list (I've already done summer, fall and winter, and I'm now accepting votes in the comments for what note, fragrance family or style to do next). As always, the line between the seasons is perhaps a bit arbitrary and/or personal, but for spring we're looking for versatility: not so heavy as winter, not so light as summer, able to work in nearly any weather, perhaps a bit more lighthearted than the fall list? And as always, do add your own picks in the comments!
Parfums DelRae Panache: I think of Panache as a kinder, gentler riff on Serge Lutens Chêne, with vetiver mingling with the oak and rum, and a lovely but appropriately brief thread of magnolia to signal spring. Less vetiver-focused than most of the fragrances on the seasonal lists — it's sort of what I imagined Prada Infusion de Vetiver would be — and possibly just right for someone who doesn't love vetiver enough for a soli-root outing. But where are those travel-sized DelRae fragrances I've been waiting for?
Carven Vetiver: another lightish-on-the-vetiver vetiver; Kevin noted that it could as easily have been named Carven Géranium (rose geranium, that is). Bright, fresh and cheerful, with a perfect green bottle. A good alternative for anyone who doesn't love Guerlain Vetiver.
Chanel Sycomore: A dry, almost-smoky vetiver, of spring or fall weight, with better lasting power than some of its brethren in the Les Exclusifs range. And likewise in keeping with the rest of the Exclusifs, it doesn't stay on your mind because it's so terribly unusual, but because it's so terribly well done. Kevin called it classy; Luca Turin advises you to see your doctor if it "does not make you shiver with pleasure".
Tom Ford Grey Vetiver: Like the Chanel, not so terribly unusual, but it's also well done, and it's a whole lot cheaper than Sycomore. It would make a great starter vetiver while you're building up your palate for Frédéric Malle Vétiver Extraordinaire.
Ermenegildo Zegna Essenze Haitian Vetiver: inching up in price again, but still cheaper than the Chanel. Kevin says "its character is somewhere between vintage Guerlain Vetiver and Vétiver Extraordinaire, but it has more buoyancy and sparkle than either of those perfumes". This is another one that would join my collection in an instant if I came across it in a travel size.
Your picks?
Note: shown is a small Vetiver Mat with fringe from Zen Deluxe: "This 24" x 36" bath mat, woven with cotton and vetiver root, feels great on the feet. A steamy bath room will cause the vetiver to always release its soothing scent." $47.50.
Yes to Grey Vetiver and Sycomore!
I think Grey Vetiver might be Tom Ford’s finest release. In a perfect world, that’d be the best-seller and not Black Orchid…
Interesting! I’d probably wear GV more often, but BO — I don’t know, it was a statement. If he’d started with GV I don’t think the line would be the success that it is.
raises my hand and says:
Embarrassed that I don’t own & haven’t tried Vetiver perfumes.
Not sure where I should start.
These sound great Robin, thank you and have a good weekend ahead
Start with Guerlain Vetiver! Or look at the rest of the summer list, those are probably the easiest to wear.
I second Guerlain Vetiver.
You could also start with Hermes Vetiver Tonka, if you like gourmand notes. It’s still still has that airiness and lightness characteristic of Hermessence line.
See, I’d actually start with Grey Vetiver instead of Guerlain Vetiver. The latter is a classic and a must-try, but Grey Vetiver is much more approachable and friendly in my opinion.
Adding them all to my list
I enjoy Fat Electrician, more than I expected to. It’s on the strong side but there’s a sweet aspect, I would imagine it could be worn in any season but might be a little heavy for summer.
I’ve always wanted one of those vetiver mats!
Ha, I know I included it but had to check — fall!
And me too. I wish I could find one in person somewhere.
Oops! Yes, it would be great in fall. : )
Oh and now I have to try Panache!
The photo looks great, it is fair trade, and I actually need a new bath mat, but I cannot make myself pay $30 for (in-state!) shipping
Ack, really, $30? So sorry, I didn’t check.
The good thing is that now I know what kind of mat I want (I am sure I’ll find it somewhere).
Good luck! I dithered over a vetiver laundry basket and then never found it again.
https://nstperfume.com/2008/05/05/things-i-want-part-876/
I guess because I consider vetiver a fall/winter note,Tom Ford Grey Vetiver fits in perfectly with that ideal!Worn on a crips autumn day with a grey sweater and black slacks,cashmere shawl over the shoulder…Perfect!
That does sound perfect!
I probably think of it as a year round thing because my first 2 were the Guerlain and the Frederic Malle.
I adore Haitian Vetiver, Sycomore and Grey Vetiver. I have mixed feelings about the Carven – I have been tempted to buy it several times but the drydown doesn’t seem to quite work for me. I love the opening. I would add Vettiveru for sping – it is such a great fragrance for the price. Guerra in is my go to summer Vetiver
I stuck the CdG in summer, but it would work just as well for spring!
Oh goodness, am I well-supplied with vetivers, or what. But now you have me wanting to sniff that Ermengildo Zegna.
I’d add 7 Virtues Vetiver of Haiti. Also Donna Karan Woman — it has loads of vetiver, though that’s more of a summer vetiver to me; this scent is discontinued, but easy to find, and not expensive.
If you want to talk about more discontinued scents, there’s Dior Vetiver – why did they drop that from the La Collection Privee line? And of course, Guerlain Vetiver Pour Elle, which is reputedly available in a limited way, but only in France and Russia.
The 7 Virtues one is nice! I don’t think I ever got to try the Dior. And did not know they were still making Vetiver Pour Elle, thanks!
I was very put out with Dior, because their Vetiver was one of my favourites, both of the note and of the line.
KenzoAir EDT, which is quite close to Chanel Sycomore, on my skin.
My pillow/cloud bottle is almost empty, but always visible because the Kenzo bottles are some of my favorites.
Wish I had bought the KenzoAir EDP, that added cumin to the mix.
I love Kenzo Air! I just avoid including discontinued scents in these lists. I think I did mention it in the summer list, it just wasn’t one of the 5. But yes, everybody should buy a bottle while they still can
Great post! I. Want. That. Mat!!
I’ve only tested two on your list: Panache (don’t remember it) and Sycomore (dirty ashtray on my skin). I’d like to try the Haitian Vetiver.
Since I’m such a huge fan of the essential oil, I usually just mix up my own vetiver blend if I’m not wearing the e.o. straight! The e.o. is so complex and with so many facets that it is a perfume in its own right. I do have some of the Guerlain Vetiver which I “femmed” up with a few drops of rose, jasmine and ylang ylang e.o.s.
In investigating the shipping cost, I see the same mat is on Amazon and has a poor review. I should say that I pick the products for the photo opp, not because I know they’re good!
Agree about the EO, I have some very nice Haitian vetiver oil that I mix in with my lotion and it is astoundingly good on its own.
Might not be a true vetiver scent, but I like be wearing Diptyque’s Vetyverio at this time of the year. At days when it’s clear blue skies, sunshine and still a bit cool in the air, it makes me smile, when I get a whiff of it
I do wish they made an edp version and gave it a bit more ompf, so it lasted longer, tho
Not really likgood bf the new (not so new anymore!) bottles, but still they have adorable drawings on them
It’s a truer vetiver than Panache, I think! I stuck it on the summer list. And yes, surprised they have not done that one in EdP.
I see there is a typo..I meant, I don’t really like the new falcons of the Diptyque fragrances, I miss the old ones :/
I really hope they do make Vetyverio into a edp
I knew what you meant!
I group Panache and Chene together, too! And not just because I bought both decants when one of the sites was shutting down.
You really ought to try the stash oil elixir, I will add. It is a smoky but not too-wintry vetiver on me.
If I ever get in Ulta I will buy something Stash, I really do like it. I don’t want the elixir if it’s silicone, and honestly I asked someone and now I can’t even remember the answer! So silicone is the least of my worries, I guess
I still wear AG Vetiver on cooler spring days, and Chanel 28 la Pausa otherwise.
I wish there were a more unisex, less Chanel version of 28 la Pausa, i.e., iris and vetiver without the musk and less citrus, not at all sweet. Basically SL Iris Silver Mist with the balance shifted to vetiver.
Serge should have done a vetiver to match ISM, really. But I left the AG out only because I was pretty sure they did not make it anymore.
Saks 5th Avenue has it in the current packaging on their website: $183 for a 6.9-oz vat. Of course, it may bear little resemblance to the original. The same size and packaging are on notino.com for $77, and it’s on many other discount sites, so perhaps most places have stopped carrying it.
No longer seeing the gold boxes on ebay though. I haz a sad.
Oh, my condolences! but who knows, maybe they’ll bring it back again like they did with the spring floral series.
Gosh, I’m racking my brains to figure out a note, fragrance family or style I’d like you to cover for this series! So I’ll stick my neck out and say I’d like an exploration of green fragrances. That’s pretty broad (too broad?) if you take into account evergreens. I happen to love them all. What have you been mulling over, Robin?
I am at a loss. Rose is a natural, but Jessica’s already done plenty with the 25 rose fragrances everyone should smell post. Green is a great idea, let me think about it! And thanks.
Seconding the green idea. I’d love that. Wearing Vert de Fleur today and enjoying it immensely. Wish it weren’t so expensive.
Thank you for another great list, Robin! I would love to see a series on leather perfumes next!
For me, vetiver in general is a ‘spring’ note, although I enjoy wearing vetiver perfumes year round. I think it’s the combination of soothing and uplifting aspects of vetiver that says ‘spring’ to me. I’ve been wearing Vetiver Tonka a lot lately.
Leather is a great idea, but it would have to be Angie or Kevin!
Green or leather, either would be fine with me. I’d like to put in a vote for white flowers, too – not everyone’s favorite, I know, but I love ’em.
Yes, I love leathers!
Love this post, as vetiver is one of my favourite notes. I already own Tom Ford GV, and I agree the Diptyque needs an EDP , however, I wore this on holiday last year in the Dominican, and the fragrance just bloomed. I got notes I never got before, the citrus was heightened and the vetiver was deeper, it was just lovely.
New poll idea, floral for men, (not managed to pull this off yet)
Love reading the site. Although my bank balance doesn’t, Liberty’s does!????
Thanks — will add florals for men to my list! And so glad you like reading here.
Thanks for this list! Should add also one both simple and sophisticated: Eau de Cartier Vetiver Bleu. A very nice work around vetiver highlighting the elegance of this wonferful ingredient!
Ah, and I forgot about that one completely, thanks!
I love vetiver and Sycomore is one of my favourite scents. I also love Encre Noire (also, why do so many people think they are alike? Not to my nose…).
I wear both whole year round.
Vitrum by Sammarco is also a very beautiful vetiver. But it’s really smoky, so more suitable for autumn and winter (it could work on a cold spring evening though).
Vetiver Extraordinaire, Vetiver Grey, Fat Electrician are also great imo.
Has anyone ever tried Black vetiver by Phaedon?
I meant Grey Vetiver of course. Dont want to lead you on, thinking there is a new scent in town haha.
I have not tried the Phaedon or the Sammarco, thanks!
ROSE! ROSE! ROSE! ROSE!
Um, that was the note you should do next.
Oh, I obviously need to pull in Jessica on this one!
Maybe another good list (that everyone could weigh in on–I can’t decide which of your contributors is my favorite one!) would be fragrances that work for every season and/or occasion. The just-grab-a-bottle-and-go perfume.
Ah, that could be interesting.
Oh, I obviously need to try Panache!
I was sort of annoyed by Grey Vetiver. It smelled beautifully haunting in the top notes, like a bare chest under a pressed white shirt. Then it totally devolved into generic manscent.
Someone should totally steal Tom Ford perfume ideas like this and do them as they should have been done!
“Not Tom Ford!” I love Black Orchid et all, and White Patchouli but the rest…?
Panache is great.
I love vetiver a lot and especially Guerlain Vetiver and Vetiver Pour Elle, and Sycomore.
I am surprised Guerlain has not reissued Vetiver Pour Elle — or maybe they did and I missed it.
Late to the party, but I’d love to see a seasonal series on woods (if it hasn’t been done before?) Also – I want one of those bathmats!
I can have kind of a hard time wearing vetiver, but I just discovered Guerlain Vetiver and it is glorious. I finished a decant and ordered a FB the same day.
I’d also love a patchouli series.