My vetiver cup runneth over. You’d laugh if I told you how many vetiver fragrances I own. It’s rare for me to come across a vetiver perfume I hate, but after disliking Prada’s take on another perfume note I love, orange blossom (Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger), I wondered if its interpretation of vetiver would also be a disappointment.
Infusion de Vétiver is a limited edition Eau de Toilette developed by perfumer Daniela Andrier. Apart from vetiver, the listed fragrance notes include tarragon, pepper and purple ginger. The first time I smelled Infusion de Vétiver was on paper, and it smelled like watery, slightly peppery vetiver: plain. When I wore the fragrance, I detected other notes but the composition remained aqueous and simple.
On my skin, Infusion de Vétiver starts with the scents of powerful, acidic "citrus" (just a second or two) followed by fresh tarragon. The aroma of tarragon is hard to describe — imagine sweet, green grass with hints of chilled butter and aniseed. Tarragon is the overriding scent of Infusion de Vétiver’s opening; in mid-development, it’s mixed with an almost-vegetal citrus note (is this the “purple ginger?”) Mixed in with the tarragon and ginger and citrus are pallid musk and clean, mild pepper. And under all these notes lies slumbering vetiver…pale, and barely breathing.
I certainly don't hate Infusion de Vétiver, but it's a puny fragrance. I guess one could think of Infusion de Vétiver as an April Fool’s joke by Prada aimed at literal-minded vetiver/perfume lovers. But no matter the name of the perfume, the actual juice needs an added infusion of something to bring it to life. (Now, if you like super-light, mild, watery fragrances, do give this perfume a try.)
Prada Infusion de Vétiver is available in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette ($70-90).
Note: top image [cropped] of Rain on Grass via Wikimedia Commons.
Ah… no. Was *so* looking forward to this… What a disappointment…
Caprica: sorry…you can still give it a try!
I’ll definitely try it, but I just had such high hopes that this could be a sort of defining scent – hoped that this could be a moment to look back on and think, “I remember the day Prada did Vetiver….”. I spent most of my day clicking F5 waiting for your review to appear.
By the way, did you ever share your opinion on the Prada Amber Pour Homme? (Probably no.2 on my all-time list)
C: I don’t think I’ve ever tried it…but with my sample mania and new samples arriving always…who knows! Is it still made?
Oh well. I love vetiver, but this doesn’t sound quite right, does it? I’ll just stick with my uber-keg of Sycomore.
mjr1: Sycomore is so much nicer
I did buy this, I have worn it for a few days and overnight…i like how it comes and goes, as Ambree does.
I do get a steady vetiver current as the base, and I think this will be a go too scent for days when I want a light vetiver….
Oooooh! Your news pleases me!
Joe: glad someone pleased you.!
It pleases me mainly because he works two miles from my apartment.
datura: I’m so curious to see what people will think of this one…too watery for my blood, though.
Well, no love for this today!
I love many vetiver scents, but I think this is a good addition to my library, 9 hours since I put it on, and still wafting about…
I have been sampling the entire Prada line recently and at first sniff I was very unimpressed. However, I discovered that the more you wear the Prada scents, the more they tend to grow on you. Even what I consider to be the heavy hitter of the line, Prada Intense is a “lighter” fragrance than a lot of others; although I don’t think I would wear Prada Intense in the heat of late July and August.
I don’t like all of the Prada scents. I totally agree about the orange one but I think they are all very worthy of an extended testing period. For some reason, to me it was the 2nd and 3rd and even 5th try (for Infusion d’Iris) that made me say hey! that’s very different than I initially thought! And then I actually had to buy some FB’s! Thank you so much for a well done and thoughtful review!
Oh, too bad, especially after Robin’s review yesterday. Sounds like Prada is going for watery and mild lately. (I love Infusion d’Iris though!) Oh well, I have quite a few vetivers I love.
Jill: the world is full of vetivers
Okay, now I’m hooked on the idea of tarragon in a perfume. Sometimes I open the bottle of tarragon in my spice cabinet just to sniff (no idea what to cook it in!). Is this worth trying just for the tarragon? Alternatively, does anyone here know of any other fragrances that feature tarragon prominently?
Guerlain’s Sous Le Vent has a fairly prominent tarragon note.
Oh, I forgot to add, use the tarragon with a roast chicken – delicious!
Yes, I second the roast chicken. Lemon, black olive and tarragon is one of my favorite ‘rubs’ for a nice roast chicken.
LOVE tarragon. (Um, vetiver, not-so-much.)
My favorite tarragon recipe has got to be the simple one for chicken salad: shredded chicken, quartered red grapes, cracked black pepper, tarragon and mayonnaise.
Three parts good oiive oil plus one part good wine vinegar plus chopped fresh tarragon (dried if that’s all that is available) plus salt and pepper makes a wonderful salad dressing.
Tsar Van Cleef & Arpels has, or used to have, a fair quantity of tarragon in it. I’m sure it’s been reformulated since I regularly wore it a decade ago–what hasn’t?–but it’s worth a try.
R: I retried it recently and that rich powdery aroma didn’t seem as rich or powdery as before! But it could have been a aged bottle on the shelf.
glrsims: give it a sniff…but the tarragon does not last very long on this one.
CB I Hate Perfume’s Violet Empire smells like tarragon (as well as violet) to me. I asked Christopher if he actually included a tarragon note, and he said no, but he did use three other notes that add up to smell like tarragon. I love that scent; it’s not the herb I use most in cooking, to be sure, but it’s the one that makes me happiest when I do use it.
Kevin – as luck and/or coincidence would have it, I’m wearing Guerlain’s Vetiver (in a vintage edc concentration) today. Going into the 80’s here today and it feels perfect! This Prada one – not so much. But thanks for taking one for the team. Have a great weekend!
Rappleyea: thanks, you too!
I like this one, though I agree it’s very light. It is very much like some of the other Pradas, a scent that disappears and returns. I agree that it’s does not smell strongly of vetiver, though I do get a little.
Anyway, my wife took one sniff and said “buy it!” So I did.
I should also mention that Octavian at 1000 Fragrances liked it a lot.
Fernando: well, she can wear it too…it’s very unisex to me.
Hey Kevin. Thanks for the review. I think I’m still curious to try this… the truth is that though I LOVE vetiver (almost as much as you and Robin), in so many compositions it is just TOO much, so a very watery version might be nice. Even CdG Vettiveru, which is quite light, feels like a BLAST of vetiver. Tarragon also has an interesting smell/taste, so that makes me really curious.
One of my favorite “lightweight” vetivers — which can be bought for next to *nothing* — is Kenzo Air, which has an added hint of anise, which to my nose, mostly burns off within 30 minutes. It’s great for those who suffer from VBS: Vetiver BLAST Syndrome.
Oh, and when I say TOO much… I don’t mean that I don’t enjoy wearing vetiver-forward perfumes (I LOVE Sycomore)… it’s just that vetiver accord can “suck all the air out of the room”, as they say, and turn most other notes in the composition into roadkill in nothing flat.
LOL! Nice image, and I know just what you mean.
Joe – that “burning woods” note that Chanel lists in Sycomore, turns even the vetiver to roadkill on me! All I get is ashtray.
Rapp: funny, I don’t get what I’d call a “smoke” or “woodfire” note from Sycomore exactly. And certainly not ashtray, because that would make me instantly hurl. I’m thinking the note you’re getting that you think turns the vetiver into roadkill IS the vetiver… just one that’s particularly smoky to your nose. Interesting.
Joe – Chanel actually lists a note called “burning woods”. I use vetiver essential oil quite a lot in aromatherapy and I love it. I’m pretty sure what I’m smelling is the “burning woods” note. My skin seems to amp that aroma-chemical – it’s also in Dzongka, and Laurie uses something similar in Fireside intense.
I definitely get smoke in Dzongkha (which I love), but not so much in Sycomore. Interesting. The idea of those “Burning Leaves” and “Fireside” type scents isn’t really appealing to me, to be honest, but in minute amounts, it can work… and I realized recently I love Fumerie Turque.
Rapple, I’m also not too fond of Sycomore due to the smoke. I think I’m just hyper-aware of smoke notes. Amouage Tribute Attar was nothing but smoke to me.
I don’t like that Spanish smoked paprika that so many foodies rave about, either.
Kenzo Air has been on my to-try list for a long time. Thanks for the reminder!
I think I just reminded myself that I might want to buy a bottle for summer. I can send you a mini or work out a decant… I’ll PM you!
Joe, I love KenzoAir, too! I love the bright clean citrus/anise up top. It was one of my first FB to buy that was targeted at men, but I liked as a woman
It was long before I knew perfume notes, or how to describe perfumes. Funny how the perfumer (Roucel?) manages to take rooty vetiver and make it sheer and open. (as well as potent and long lasting)
Glad to hear someone else enjoys it, too. You remind me I need to make a sample for my buddy snowcrocus–who loves both anise and vetiver.
I used Kenzo Air to introduce my sons to fragrance. One liked it and has moved on to other scents. The other could care less about wearing anything. Worked great as a good intro scent as it wasn’t so strong that they were turned off.
Tiara; a 50/50 success rate is good…and a great idea to introduce teens to cologne with Kenzo Air.
VBS – ha ha! Is that my problem with Sycamore? It is indeed the Stonking King of Vetivers (or is that you?). I like mine more tame in No 19 & Pour Monsieur.
It’s very, very dense, to be sure.
Joe: agree on the Kenzo Air…a watery vetiver I like!
I thought this was one of the worst vetivers. It reminded me of Azzaro Pure Vetiver, which IS the worst, but with the standard Infusion cocktail overlaid.
Hmmm… I do like “super-light, mild, watery fragrances” in the summer. I might try it. Kevin, you sort of implied that the citrus is very synthetic-smelling? I wouldn’t like that. Thanks for the review!
You’re welcome Haunani.
A “meh”, then. I’ve meh’ed -or hated- all the previous Infusions, so I won’t be falling over myself to seek this one out, especially after your meh’ing, Kevin. Saves time!
ZeeZee: and $$!
So, how many vetiver fragrances do you own, Kevin?
Rictor: probably around 11 or 12…it could be worse I guess.
Hey, I’d love to see a list…
I have the Guerlain Vetiver, the Lubin, the Prada, and Sel de Vetiver. Sycomore is on my want list. What others would you recommend?
Fernando, I’m a bore and always recommend the same ones: my all-time fave — Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Route du Vetiver, Lalique Encre Noir, the Armani Prive vetiver and Comptoir Sud Pacifique Vetiver Haiti.
“Pale and barely breathing” was all I needed to know. Thanks, Kevin! Lemming averted.
Oh: I need a good laugh. How many vetivers *do* you own?
Yes, I chuckled at “pale and barely breathing” sounds like this fragrance needs medical attention….STAT!
I haven’t really “gotten” vetiver yet, so I’m always interested in trying them ; watching and waiting for the one that opens my eyes and makes me say “I get it!” hmmm, add that “light and watery ” never appeals either…I’d venture a guess that this won’t be the Vetiver gateway scent for me. Love that picture at the top though. I feel refreshed just looking at it.
Dearest Empress – have I enabled you yet by sending you some Vetiver Pour Elle? A bit more floral than straight up vetiver; you might like it. Email me if you’d like to try it.
The perfume which did that for me was surprisingly Les Parfums de Rosine Écume de rose. I didn’t use to like vetiver but the one in the base of that fragrance opened my eyes LOL. Now I’m learning to love vetiver, so I’ll give Infusion de Vetiver a try.
That’s interesting, Isa. I love Ecume de Rose. I will have to pay special attention to that vetiver!
Miss K: see above…perhaps not as bad as you imagined? HA!
Lemming averted, indeed, but I did feel compelled to run off and re-read La Belle Dame Sans Merci.
This is dissapointing indeed. I too love vetiver and it can be a very big impactful fragrance. I do love those bottles though and the sizes are quite generous. Also, Fleur d’Oranger was quite decent I thought, for a new release, but was not worth buying perhaps.
I am so excited to try this, I have been obsessing about it for the last couple of days. Why don’t I just get over to Nordstroms’ and get it over with already!!?? Why do I do that to myself?
(sigh)
Hey, Mike, perhaps the anticipation is pleasurable for you! Sometimes it’s that way for me.
I adore that bottle. That box is wonderful. What a shame that Infusion de Vétiver isn’t :S
The description, paired with the picture, makes me very thirsty.
Well, first I was thinking that’s a bit of a relief (it’s late and I started to type, “that’s a vetiver relief” – LOL), given how many vetivers I already own and love. But now I NEED to try the CSP Vetiver Haiti and PdR Ecume de Rose.
I loved Infusion De Vetiver. I prefer it to the original although others prefer the original to this. The incoporation of the ginger to create a citrus like feeling is incredible. The initial spray is different from the original although later the original starts to appear.
Sounds like this would be good as a linen spray!
eminere: agree!
I like the light smell of this fragrance. I feel like the ginger is pretty strong and it does bring out a citrus smell. I think it would be a really nice casual spray for leaving the house and making a quick run to the store. I’m a little disappointed in this vetiver and the tubereuse. I felt like the tuberuese was a cop out and not a tubereuse fragrance at all. Although it is pleasant, I think that it too is better suited as a linen spray. The Iris promised great things, and they did not live up to them with these two fragrances.
I know this is coming in late, but thought I’d give it a shot anyway. Vetiver usually doesn’t get along with me when it plays a prominent part, with one exception so far: Tauer’s Vetiver Dance, which I think is a beauty, so fresh and truly a living green. Is there any comparison with any of Guerlain’s Vetiver series?
I agree with “simple”, but otherwise I like it very much. I would have never expected a vetiver scent could be so refreshing and almost effervescent – and that for hours, at least on my skin.
My other favourite vetiver scents are all on the spicy side, like Vetiver Oriental or Encre Noir for example. Infusion de Vetiver is a great summer scent, if you don’t want anything floral and citrus doesn’t seem to be enough.
Tried this at my local Prada boutique yesterday and I don’t mind it at all actually. In keeping with the Infusion theme, it is ephemeral, even limpid, but I did like it. It faded away on my skin after an hour, but on the SA it smelt just AMAZING – I wanted to sniff him up close!
The top notes smell somewhat “sweaty” to me, though not in an unpleasant way.
Oh wow.
I am a woman and I love this … on me.
Is there something wrong with me? hehe.
Seriously though; I ordered a sample, just tried it, and I agree that it is very mild, but I really like.
I can also see loving something stronger, but very similar.
Honestly, I am not sure if the note I smell — the one I am enjoying so much that is lingering — is vetiver or something else .. perhaps the tarragon. I must go to my spice cabinet and see!!
I think I will blindly order the Guerlain vetiver, or something else .. I am not sure. After being happy with this, I want to try a real vetiver, one that stands up and lets me know exactly what vetiver means!
Anyway, yes this is mild, but it works well with my chemistry. I like it.
ps– I have always loved fragrance and am addicted, but am only now learning terminology and learning to detect specific notes, so forgive me while I learn. :=)
I recently ordered a ton of sample sizes from suggestions off the 100 fragrance list, and I am so excited to try them.
Long time lurker, first time post :=) hi !
ScorpioSunshine: glad you’ve come out of the ‘shadows’…welcome! There’s a BIG world of vetivers out there to keep you occupied.
Thank you, Kevin.
OK… so I’m not a huge vetiver fan.
I don’t actually own any “vetiver” frags. The scent of vetiver bothers me. I don’t dislike it, but like cardamom or cumin, it can easily be just too much, for me anyway.
But, curiosity got the best of me and I tried it…. and loved it!
I love the fresh grapefruit zest in the opening mixed in with the tarragon. This phase, on me lasts a good hour. At some point during that time, the pepper note–almost incense-like- comes in for a few brief seconds and then goes.
During that whole first hour I get almost no vetiver on me– not on the skin where I sprayed–but I smell vetiver about me, as if a vetiver aura was all around me, or as if someone near me was wearing vetiver. Sounds a bit weird, I know…
After about an hour, the whole thing starts to fade down to nothing…
but then, a couple of hours later, the vetiver comes out –finally–and lasts, on me, for another 5 to 6 hours. While that part of the development is a more “typical” vetiver scent, it is one that I can live with.
Infusion de vétiver will — this week– become my very first “vétiver”.
(Now if I only could finally fall in love with Encre Noir…)
I, too, was unimpressed with this when I sprayed it on paper, but I snagged a sample from Sephora after reading March at Perfume Posse’s rather effusive praise of it, thinking that maybe it’ll grow on me. You’re right – it’s far more tarragon than vetiver, and tarragon is emphatically NOT one of my favorite herbs. (The way many people feel about cilantro, I feel about tarragon. It’s just…invasive.) I dig the peppery grassiness of IdV, though, especially once the tarragon fades, and as soon as the vetiver peeks through I’m pretty much hooked. I’m actually considering a bottle for when the weather heats up around here (…IF IT EVER WILL). Not a vetiver-freak’s vetiver, but a stylish, well-done fragrance nonetheless.