Misia did not create anything, but, through the people she met throughout her life and her magnetic presence alongside artists of the time, she became a muse, a patron and an arbiter of taste for several decades. — Musée d'Orsay
My intention for this fragrance wasn’t so much to recapture Misia herself, but her role as a turning point in the life of Gabrielle Chanel. Misia introduced Gabrielle to a number of new things. With this fragrance, I wanted to convey the atmosphere of the Ballets Russes [of which Misia was a patron] and the smell of makeup from that time. — Olivier Polge1
Misia is the latest from the Les Exclusifs collection at Chanel, and the first release from perfumer Olivier Polge. You may remember that Polge has been named as the successor to his father, Jacques Polge, who has been the Chanel house perfumer since 1978. The fragrance was named for Misia Sert, a friend of Coco Chanel, but I am not going to belabor the backstory — Misia Sert was fascinating, but really "Ballets Russes" and "the smell of makeup from that time" tells you most of what you need to know about the fragrance.
Misia is a cosmetic powder / lipstick accord fragrance, first and foremost. The opening is a cloud of sugared violets set off with sheer berry notes and cut through, briefly, with sharp citrus. It's considerably plusher (and more feminine) than the modern, minimalist powdered violet of Polge's Balenciaga Paris, and the rose in the heart, while it never asserts itself as fully it does in the heavier (and sweeter) Lipstick Rose from Frédéric Malle, lends a richness that sets Misia apart from many of the "fresher" modern department store variations on cosmetic powder, and from the more light-hearted Drôle de Rose from L'Artisan Parfumeur.2
The dry down is woodier and creamier, with a lovely (and very Chanel) iris note, smooth and barely earthy (when I have time, I mean to try layering it with 28 La Pausa). It's also a step warmer and darker than the opening, and despite the benzoin and tonka bean, feels drier and more restrained. The Chanel description mentions "a hint of leather", but it's no more than a suggestion, and even then, think Cuir d'Ange rather than Cuir de Russie.
I don't think anybody will mistake Misia for a vintage fragrance. Still, it seems perfectly calibrated to evoke the vague outlines of a perfume that might have existed in the early 1920s when Gabrielle Chanel accompanied Misia Sert on her honeymoon in Venice. If it does not seem at all likely to be the sort of fragrance that would have appealed to either woman, that is neither here nor there in 2015, is it?
Verdict: Utterly charming, and as a way of introducing Olivier Polge to Chanel's fragrance buying public — or at least, that tiny corner of the fragrance buying public that pays any attention whatsoever to perfumers — I would call it an absolute success (and I for one am looking forward to smelling his first Chanel pillar fragrance). It is markedly different from what Jacques Polge has done with the Les Exclusifs, but it doesn't stray outside the boundaries of the collection: it smells tasteful, elegant, and like it is made from the highest quality raw materials.3 It smells like luxury, and not surprisingly, has a price to match and then some.4 Happily for me, I enjoyed wearing it tremendously but am content with my Drôle de Rose. Now if Chanel ever starts making 15 ml bottles...
The lasting power is good but not fantastic, which seems to be the norm for this collection.
Chanel Misia is available in 75 ($160) and 200 ($280) ml Eau de Toilette. The notes feature violet, Grasse and Turkish rose, orris, tonka bean and benzoin.
1. First quote from Misia, Queen at Paris at the Musée d'Orsay. Second quote via Women's Wear Daily, 1/30/2015.
2. Lipstick Rose and Drôle de Rose strike me as being essentially tongue-in-cheek takes on feminine glamour and artifice. Misia doesn't. It isn't dull, but it takes its subject more seriously, and in some ways is easier to wear.
3. Compare to Jessica's review of Guerlain's recent (likewise expensive) lipstick accord fragrance, French Kiss: "French Kiss has a synthetic, shiny quality to it, and if it were a color, it would almost certainly be fuchsia. It's fun, like a new lip gloss, in a way that walks a fine line between chic and trashy...and it costs $260, which is just too much money for something like that. "
4. In 2007, the Exclusifs were $175 for 200 ml, and I thought they were too expensive then. Adjusted for inflation, today those bottles would be $197, but Chanel is charging a whopping $280. Perhaps the cost of materials has gone up faster than inflation, but still, that's quite a jump. Of course, I used to think of the Serge Lutens line as my "barometer" for luxury fragrance prices, and the 50 ml export bottles now range from $130 to $150, and the bell jar of Tubéreuse Criminelle is $310. So what do I know.
While it sounds lovely, the price…yikes! and I remember Chanel no 22 EDT(before it was an exclusive) at $37.50 for the refill to the white/gold plastic outer container with the gold Chanel logo on the top of the cap at the local dept store….yeah, I am dating myself!
Well, I’m dating myself too…or dating my debut as a perfumista, at least — I am stuck in a mid-2000s mind-set when it comes to prices.
And I am stuck in 1980s prices!!!
LOL — and I did not buy enough perfume then to care, maybe a couple bottles a year.
Back in those days I was much less of a “hoarder” and did not subscribe to the philosphy of “must save because it is discontinued/reformulated”. In fact, back then my discipline was pretty darn good as I had only about 7-10 FBs in full view on my dresser and in constant rotation and would not buy anything new until a bottle was fully drained and in the trashcan……(and there was no such thing as buying an exhorbitant amount of samples-LOL!)
I am quite sure I never had more than 4 at a time, and for me 4 was probably a lot.
I fell in love with Misia at first sniff. I tried it on, went for a coffee, and then was compelled to run back and buy the smaller bottle. I do not regret this one bit! I have always liked this sort of vintage-cosmetics scent, but I find Drôle de Rose a little too thin, and Lipstick Rose a little too loud and sweet (though I still like it). Misia hits the spot! It must be that “hint of leather.’ Or the wonderfully rich iris note. Whatever it is, it works.
Drôle de Rose is definitely thinner, and I admit (and hope Jessica isn’t reading, even though I know she’d really rather nobody wear it but her) that I find Lipstick Rose gorgeous but essentially unwearable.
Misia is like a middle ground in every sense except humor (and if you want a middle ground with humor, there’s always YSL Parisienne, although then you also have to give up the high quality materials).
Oh, and congrats on your bottle!
I was not cheap, but I regret it not! 😉 Now I have to layer it with my 28 La Pausa sample.
Do report back — you’ll probably be able to lay your hands on your sample before I will (at the moment, it’s MIA).
Thanks so much for your detailed review, Robin!
Thank you for reading!
I tried this the other night and though I thought it was quite lovely, it was not me thing. Probably the most feminine Chanel I can think of (and I wear L’Heure Bleue, which is strikes me both extremely feminine and quite violet-studded!). It made me slightly uncomfortable. I haven’t smelled any of the other “classic” violet-roses though.
I totally agree with you on price. I remember when the 75ml costed less than Lutens’s exports! To be fair with those bell jars, they’re less than half the price per ml. Though you do get a veritable vat of perfume for the 200ml, and perfect for splitting (though I hate splitting with atomizers), who needs that much?! If I had that much Rue Cambon I’d be fragrant until I died. And for that price, that would be all you smelled on me for a year.
I thought Beige & 1932 were pretty feminine, but yes, this is more so.
I start to wonder if all this price creep isn’t just that…everyone wants to set themselves apart as a luxury brand.
I’ve been thinking about this creep too – it seems like Chanel is trying to get up to the L ‘Art et la Matière Guerlain prices for department store offerings. LAeLM bottles are going for $260, then surely, Chanel’s Les Exclusifs should be there too. Right? That’s the new norm for “nice” department stores. Even Annick Goutal has started to creep up….
Exactly. Nobody wants to look like the cheap alternative, so they all keep besting each other. True of Hermes too, but since they will sell in 15 ml I don’t care nearly as much.
And adding, I also suspect that many of these brands are finding that no matter how much they raise their prices, people will still pay.
The Hermessences went up again! I bought Epice Marine for $230 in August. Now it’s $255. Lordy, I’m sticking to the 15ml from now on.
Wow, Osmanthe Yunnan too — $255. I distinctly remember feeling a little sick about paying $180, or whatever it was exactly, must have been close to that.
My Bring de Reglisse was $180 as well. 🙁
See — I have a terrible memory, but that price stuck in my head because I thought it was so outrageous.
Though those L’Art et la Matiere bottles are only 75ml, right up there with Serge’s bell jars. If there was an easy way to split one in half, you’d get 100ml for $140 with Chanel.
Dunno if that makes it better. 🙂
By the way, as an owner of the 125ml Eau Premiere bottle, I tested a tester at Ulta of the new bottle shape and couldn’t detect any difference. I seem to remember you as one of my fellow “New bottle? Buy a back-up!” Eau Premiere fans.
yes AG has most definitely gone up! When i first started buying AG in the very early 1990s the 75ml were $90.00 per bottle and several times a year there were BOGOs so essentially you were getting 150ml for $90.00. What is the going price now? I think it is $149.00 for a full bottle and no BOGOs ever.
Thank you for the review. I am sure I would like Misia. But I’m also going to just sit back, enjoy my Drole de Rose and other cosmetic powder style fragrances, and just wait. I also can’t wait until Polge releases a major fragrance for Chanel that is just more than what they’ve been doing. More courage!
Chanel has not done a pillar for women since 2002! That’s amazing, can’t think of another brand with their stature that has so totally relied on flankers & side projects. I suppose they’d argue it’s how they maintain their stature, but still. And the 2002 scent was Chance, so hardly counts. Hope they’ll do one soon.
I know – right – I’d written a bit more of a jaded response above and then cancelled it. I don’t want to totally bash Chanel b/c their fragrances are by and large still very good or better than most, and I wear older Chanels more than almost any other house but Goutal. But you know, Chanel used to challenge the market and create the trend. Now they are just releasing frags that have already been done before – even their own. Cosmetic powder frags have been in style for a few years now! Sheesh. I’m thinking Tom Ford just killed his Violet Blonde and Chloe has axed Love, Chloe b/c that’s been there, done that. And here is Chanel finally catching up to the tail of the trend, even if Misia is very good.
Agree! Guerlain arguably should be more careful than they are, Chanel arguably should take a few more risks.
I think we need to do an intervention. Maybe if we plead enough they will get a better vision for their houses.
Not sure the better vision that would please you or I would be economically sound, though 😉
I’m dying to try this one as I love violet-rose combo’s and want to smell what Chanel has done with it. I don’t like LR either, but I adore Drôle de Rose. It is fun, a lot of fun. As is Dzing! and Vamp for that matter.
Hope you will like it! I don’t think it’s “fun” in the same way as Drole de Rose but maybe you’ll disagree, or maybe you’ll like it anyway.
Chanels do tend to be quite solemn don’t they?
Yes! This one is maybe less solemn than some of the Exclusifs, but it isn’t what I’d call light-hearted.
Nice review Robin!It was a blind buy(75ml),but I had a mini-load of discount points at the local retailer,so I paid about half of the original price.LOVE LOVE.Excellent Violet/Rose+Orris.I find it easier to wear than Lipstick Rose.
Oh, good for you! Enjoy your more-reasonably-priced bottle 🙂
I got all violets on this and very little else. Longevity was poor, but it was wonderful while it lasted. I can’t wear Lipstick Rose and don’t care for Drôle de Rose or French Kiss, so this is basically the only scent in that category that works for me. Not planning to purchase it but I enjoyed smelling it – would wear it happily if I received it as a gift, but won’t pay $$ due to poor longevity on my skin.
I would not pay the money if it lasted 3 days 😉
Thanks for the review, Robin! I look forward to sniffing this one eventually, but none of the Exclusif line knocked my socks off, so I can’t say I’ll be frantic about searching out this one. Sounds pretty, however, and I quite liked Balenciaga Paris, (although I preferred the l’Essence version). What I really should do is check prices on a vintage bottle of YSL Paris.
Gosh I adored Paris! The last time I smelled it I thought it was still pretty darned good, but it’s been some years now. The sandalwood can’t possibly be what it was.
Well, in a word, no. 🙁
I bought a LE bottle (the one with the fireworks), and it was noticeably thinner, not as voluptuous.
It would have to be, I guess, plus doubt YSL invests any huge amount in it. Shame!
I have a FB of ELDO Putain des Palaces, which is a violet/rose/cosmetic type of scent and even though I DO like it, I hardly ever reach for it. Don’t know if bears any resemblance at all to Misia, but I’m thinking I’ll give this one a pass. Thanks for the review, I know a lot of people have been waiting with bated breath!
PdP is a more overtly sexy scent, I think, and possibly even more tongue in cheek than Lipstick Rose or Drole de Rose. I never fell for it, but it’s well done. Misia is probably, again, much easier to wear.
If the price were anywhere near Planet Reasonable, I might be able to justify adding this to my collection on the basis that my backup bottle of Penhaligon’s Violetta turned out to be missing the sprayer part of the atomizer and thus I need another violet scent. But as it is, it sounds like I’ll be sticking with my beloved Drole de Rose and *maybe* springing for a decant of this one sometime.
I am afraid to go check the price of Drole de Rose, or for that matter to go look to see if they even still make Drole de Rose. Lipstick Rose is now $180 for 50 ml, I checked that earlier. But, you can still buy 10 ml of Lipstick Rose, so there’s that….
Thanks for the review, Robin!
For me, simple scents are just as good as complex scents. I don’t need a perfume that goes through layers of development to make me happy. While the Les Exclusifs tend to be overpriced, if I like it well enough, I don’t mind paying for it. I am waiting for my largish 50 mL decant to arrive, hopefully in time for the Swapmeet!
I suppose it is silly that I complain about high prices but don’t mind paying even more per ml so long as they’ll sell me a small bottle, but that’s the way it is! If Frederic Malle and Hermes will sell small bottles, so should everybody 😉
I don’t think it is silly at all to complain about high prices…..for those of us who have been “perfume addicts” for a long time we remember when prices were reasonable (30-50 dollars for a 3.4 oz bottle) for a very high quality and unique fragrance (which by todays standard would be considered high end niche). and I agree with you Robin that the reason companies are charging so much and continue to raise the prices is because we, the consumers, are willing to pay.
I start to wonder if there is indeed any limit. Eventually maybe I won’t be able to afford the luxury brands even in 15 ml.
I am avoiding decants/ splits/smaller bottles out of fear that I might fall madly in love with something and then spend a month’s worth of grocery money on a full bottle! But actually my goal for 2015 is to finish EVERYTHING I have before buying ANYTHING (including samples). After I read Angela’s article about trying to downsize (believe she aspired to getting rid of/selling/using 5 bottles a season) I am even more determined 🙂 !!!!!
I’ll give this a try but because cosmetic-scented fragrances are not my genre usually, I doubt I’ll love it, so a decant will do.
It fascinates me that Chanel can bring out all these fragrances that strike a balance between classic and modern. They refer to the past but work in the present, and you could easily take them on as a signature for years to come if you wanted.
Of course there are exceptions. Allure. I remember when it came out. It was quite an event because at that stage there had not been a new Chanel for women for ages. I was wearing No. 19 then (still am) so you can imagine how vile Allure smelled to me. It has lots of fans though.
Allure. And maybe Chance.
Misia is one beautiful fragrance! But on my skin, it is predominately a powdery cosmetic iris, with a strong No.19 Poudre likeness. I keep hearing people getting a Lipstick Rose vibe and I have to say I am envious!
Well, maybe I should be “thankful” for not getting it to smell that way on me because the price tag for this EdT is quite steep!!
Yes, be happy if you don’t love it!
I didn’t expect to like Misia nearly as much as I do. Violet-rose cosmetic powder generally isn’t my kind of thing at all but for me this transcends the genre. I think it’s the orris note that has won me over. Brilliant idea to layer it with La Pausa!
If I can ever find my La Pausa!
I seldom feel comfortable in Chanel, especially the Exclusives, but I have to say that ad is stunning!
Agree, it’s perfect for the scent.
Yay, thank you for the review, Robin! And thank you to the commenters, too.
I am a fan of Chanel fragrances, but they often smell better on other people than they do on me. I like Gardenia very much and Beige as well. I want to try Jersey someday, and now I can add Misia to my to-sample list. I’m glad to hear her described as easier to wear.
I don’t think anyone would smell this and peg it as a Chanel right away, so maybe it will work for you.
I liked all Exclusifs, but similar to the perfumery store scents they smell on everybody exactly the same. There has been nothing that tempted me to buy a lot of $$$ but the name and the clean design of the bottle. Nothing really special.
But it is Chanel so it will sell 🙂 when I am in need of luxury I buy a Chanel lipstick, that’s how it works – the power of the brand is really huge.
I am looking forward to new “mainstream” Chanel though. Always well made and elegant…