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Cire Trudon Olim & Mortel ~ fragrance reviews

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St. Louis by the workshop of El Greco

I’m a Francophile when it comes to candles. Cire Trudon is part of my Candle Triumvirate; Astier de Villatte and Diptyque make up the others. (I’ve always been afraid to try Frédéric Malle candles…I have a feeling they’d expand my candle obsession and budget to an even crazier level.)

I was interested (that’s about the best I can muster these days in Perfumeland, no longer am I “thrilled” or “excited” about new launches) when I heard Cire Trudon had developed a personal fragrance line called Trudon (how many times did I wish one of Cire Trudon’s wonderfully scented room sprays or candles was a perfume?) I’m happy to report three of the first five perfumes pleased me, and today I’m reviewing two: Olim1 and Mortel2. Robin Here at NST beat me to my other favorite: Deux (II)…

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Sylvaine Delacourte Florentina ~ fragrance review

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Sylvaine Delacourte Florentina

When I chose Sylvaine Delacourte Florentina to review, I didn’t know Kevin had already served it papers in his review of the line’s Helicriss, where he called Florentina “the most insufferable of the bunch” of the house’s releases. I understand that. If you don’t like powder and musk, you might well loathe Florentina.

Me? I’m a fan. I love a silky soft, swan’s-down puff of a perfume, and Florentina is all about that. To me, its musk is more about texture and body than about cleaning products…

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Mona di Orio Suede de Suede and Dojima ~ fragrance review

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Mona di Orio Dõjima and Suède de Suède

In my mind, Mona di Orio has always been associated with quirky — and sometimes outright challenging — fragrances. Mona di Orio Nuit Noire is as dark and animalic a fragrance as I’ve ever smelled. Even the perfume house’s single note fragrances such as Vanille and Cuir focus on those materials’ less obvious aspects.

With Dõjima and Suède de Suède, the house made a conscious decision to satisfy “the demand for more accessible fragrances for those who recently discovered niche” by developing “more accessible fragrances to build a bridge to the more complex creations in our collection.” Lucky for us, both fragrances are still likely to be plenty interesting to experienced perfume lovers…

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Les Parfums de Rosine Rose des Neiges ~ fragrance review

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Les Parfums de Rosine Rose des Neiges

Les Parfums de Rosine has been one of my favorite niche perfume houses for the past decade, so I always look forward to trying its newest releases. This fall, Rosine has launched Rose des Neiges, “a modern interpretation of a powdery rose” inspired by the image of an unexpected late-autumn snowfall that frosts all the flowers in a rose garden. Rose des Neiges was developed by perfumer Nicholas Bonneville and includes top notes of mandarin, pink pepper, lychee and watermelon; heart notes of rose and white violet; and base notes of sandalwood, ambroxan, heliotrope and musks.

“Powdery” is an understatement here…

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Maison Martin Margiela Replica Lipstick On ~ fragrance review

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Maison Martin Margiela Lipstick On brand image

Back when we wrote about our favorite perfumes of 2015, I mentioned the recent proliferation of perfumes that evoke lipstick or other cosmetics — not a new idea, I pointed out, but a trend I can actually enjoy. One example I mentioned was Maison Martin Margiela Replica Lipstick On, which I kept meaning to try and I’ve finally been able to sample. (Earlier last year, I reviewed a few of the original fragrances from this collection — reviews here and here.)

The description for Lipstick On reads, “Within the intimacy of an apartment, a woman applies the finishing touches to her makeup. A cloud of rice powder lingers around the intensity of crimson lipstick. Lipstick On evokes an age-old ritual in a sophisticated, modern fragrance…”

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