Lancôme has released a few limited edition flankers to Trésor over the years, but it didn't really court a new generation of perfume-wearers until 2010, when it offered Trésor In Love as a "fresher" interpretation of the 1990s classic. Trésor In Love has just been joined by a second flanker, Trésor Midnight Rose, which is billed as "Charming. Mischievous. Desirable" and seems to be directed at a similarly young audience.
Lancôme names Trésor Midnight Rose's notes as raspberry, black currant bud absolute, rose absolute, jasmine, vanilla, and musk. (An earlier list also included pink pepper, peony, and cedar.) The fragrance was developed by perfumer Anne Flipo and it is packaged in a purple ombré version of the Trésor In Love bottle. The actress Emma Watson is the "face" of Midnight Rose, and I found the commercial in which she strides along the streets of Paris and beguiles a young bookshop clerk to be charming, indeed. (Two asides: the bookstore appears to be Shakespeare & Company; and, I once saw Emma Watson stepping into a boutique on New York's Madison Avenue. She was quite petite and pretty, and still very young-looking!)
Trésor Midnight Rose bears little similarity to the well-groomed peachy rose of the original Trésor. I'd classify it as a fruity-woody feminine fragrance. It opens with a fabulously fake black currant note that reminds me momentarily of Ribena concentrate. This juicy berry aspect is followed soon afterwards by a semi-sheer wood with a sharp-sweet, cedary character. At first, these two accords seem to exist side-by-side, running along parallel olfactory tracks. Then the two threads gradually intertwine, for a more finished effect that's wearable, linear, and long-lasting. Midnight Rose contains very little vanilla, and its floral notes are subtle and tightly blended into the fruit-wood heart. The fragrance's finishing traces revert back to black currant and raspberry again.
I would have worn Midnight Rose with enthusiasm in my late teens and early twenties, when I was making the transition from fruity-sweet fragrances (Oscar de la Renta Ruffles!) to softer, if still slightly fruity, florals (Crabtree & Evelyn's Evelyn Rose ). It walks a line between "youthful" and more "sophisticated," which seems appropriate for an Emma Watson-aged wearer. The black currant is sweet, and the sandalwood is androgynous and sharp, just like the contrast between Emma Watson's berry-bright lipstick and boyish fedora hat in the commercial.
Thinking back, I remember the combination of blackberry (and/or black currant) with sweet woods from Lalique's Amethyst and, of course, from L'Artisan Parfumeur's niche-classic Mûre et Musc. Trésor Midnight Rose doesn't have quite the richness and humor of that iconic berry-musk fragrance, but all the same, it's refreshing to see a fragrance that could be described as a granddaughter of Mûre et Musc, instead of yet another Thierry Mugler Angel descendant.
In summary, all the "pieces" of Trésor Midnight Rose fit together nicely around the fragrance itself: the advertisements, the packaging, the demographic, the pricing (kudos to Lancôme for offering bottles in various sizes). It should appeal to young women who have never tried a Lancôme fragrance before, and who knows: they may come back in a few years for the original Trésor, O de Lancôme, or one of the Lancôme's vintage fragrances, if they're ever reissued again (hope springs eternal for us not-so-youthful fragrance-wearers!).
Lancôme Trésor Midnight Rose is available in 30 ($44), 50 ($56), and 75 ($75) ml Eau de Parfum.