Early on in my career as a perfume addict, I made any number of buying-unsniffed blunders (my record was considerably worse than Kevin's 2 out of 3), and eventually swore off the practice entirely. Well, almost entirely. I try. But at least once a year, I fall prey to uncontrollable, spur-of-the-moment yearnings. In 2006, I actually did a little worse than I'd remembered: I bought Hermès Elixir des Merveilles (didn't like it, so swapped for a bottle of Eau des Merveilles) and a half-bottle of Sel de Vetiver by The Different Company (like it well enough, but not sure I would have purchased if I'd smelled it first). I might have even bought L'Artisan Dzongkha unsniffed, but I honestly can't remember. Ah well, that one I love.
I thought I might make it through all of 2007 unscathed, but a few weeks ago I caved on a bottle of Encre Noire by Lalique, a fragrance I've wanted ever since Victoria of Bois de Jasmin included it in her Best of 2006 article. As it turns out, Encre Noire is even better than I could have hoped. I love it, and I can see reaching for it frequently (and as we all know, the two aren't always related).
Encre Noire was developed by perfumer Nathalie Lorson, and features two kinds of vetiver (Bourbon and Haitian), cypress, cashmere woods and musk. It is dark and spicy and dirty, with none of the bright, clean feel of Guerlain Vetiver, and has an appropriately inky feel. At the same time, it is a very transparent fragrance. It wears like the sheerest possible veil of something black and gauzy; it doesn't bury you in roots and dirt like Frederic Malle's Vetiver Extraordinaire, or whack you over the head like Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Route du Vetiver.
Victoria says there is blackberry so I'm quite sure there must be, but all I smell is spicy vetiver and dark woods, more dry than not. I've seen complaints about the lasting power of the Eau de Toilette, but a few good sprays lasts most of day on me, albeit rather close to the skin by the final stages. The bottle is perfect. In the picture above it looks translucent, and it is, but unless you are shining a light directly on it, it looks more like opaque black glass, and the dark wengé wood cap is a nice touch.
In addition to the Eau de Toilette (available in 50 and 100 ml), there is an Eau de Parfum in a 60 ml crystal bottle inspired by a 1913 Lalique ink pot. I haven't tried the Eau de Parfum, and don't plan to, given that it runs $750. If you want one, aedes has it. I got my 50 ml Eau de Toilette at parfum1 for $42, and am perfectly happy with it.
A poll: what was the last fragrance you bought unsniffed, and was it a success?
On a whim I bought both Amazing Grace and Falling in Love from Philosophy online (it was a bogo thing) 'scent unseen'. Amazing Grace was pretty, light and soft enough to wear to work. Falling in Love smelled like one of those cotton candy perfumes they make for kids, so I gave it to my 11 yr old daughter!
Since I found this blog I've been buying samples and trying lots of new things. Would sniff more at the store, but the sales girls scare me to death!
You've got to get over that — no reason at all that SAs should scare anybody! It is very rare that they know any more about perfume than their customers.
And 1 out of 2 is not a bad record, esp. if your daughter ended up liking the other!
The last and only scent I bought unsniffed recently was Grey Flannel. Mainly because nearly every review was positive and it was dirt-cheap anyway. Didn't disappoint me at all, as it's really quite a unique scent and rather unknown in Europe. Other than that I try to stay away from blind buys – I know how picky I can get. Great to hear the Encre Noire turned out good on you, Robin!
Oh, Grey Flannel is such a wonderful scent. I'd like to have a bottle myself. You don't smell it in the US much these days either — but once upon a time, knew lots of men who wore it.
Encre Noir is beautiful, isn't it? I would buy it for that gorgeous bottle alone. On me it is drier, darker and considerably smokier than VE, but surprisingly not as spicy. Vika also mentioned hints of dark chocolate (blackberry?) which my sweet-enhancing skin does bring out, and that's a good thing as otherwise EN would probably be too austere for my tastes.
My two not-so-recent unsniffed purchases (6 months, that is, a year ago) were Chergui and Fumerie Turque. I am happy to report that they were both highly successful, but that is hardly surprising since in both cases the enabler was darling Vika. I love them to bits! 🙂
Hi, Robin. I haven't purchased unsniffed bottles for a couple years. These days I do allow myself unsniffed split portions. My record is not great, but I did find one to love: Chanel #18 (no); Prada Infusion d'Iris (nice, but not love); Mona di Orio Lux (no); Guerlain Iris Ganache (love).
Happily I get no chocolate. Hints of fruit, yes, but wouldn't have noticed if V hadn't said so, and no way distinct enough for my nose to pick out blackberry — but V's nose is (obviously!) way better than mine.
And hey — it takes some guts to order Chergui & FT unsniffed! Not sure I'd order anything SL unsniffed. So glad they worked.
A couple years — wow, good for you! Decants/splits hardly count, do they? But money-wise, you'd have done better to fall in love with the Prada & not the Guerlain 😉
I rarely buy unsniffed anymore, even though I had a pretty good record when I did. Bottle-wise, I think my most recent unsniffed purchase was March's Kenzo Jungle Elephant, which could have gone terribly wrong, but I quite like it. I think I like the Jungle Tiger equally much (perhaps even more), but I'm just surviving on decants.
Unlike Dusan, I seem to dry scents up no end, though I enjoyed this when I tested it twice in the recent past. Perhaps not so good on me though.
I haven't bought unsniffed for the LONGEST time. Am tempted by Vento Canale though….
My last unsniffed purchase will remain my LAST unsniffed purchase. Never Again. I was overcome by the selection in the duty-free at the Thousand Islands, and I really wanted something. And Diorissimo was about a thousand dollars for the EDT. So I bought… SJP Lovely. I had no idea perfume could be so remarkably bland. I really, truly, genuinely hate it. But, of course, I can't get rid of it because I'm not nearly individuated enough to admit I made such a huge mistake. I've found it layers well with Timbuktu, but the SJP will actually overpower if not used sparingly. I think what I need is a really good, down-and-dirty leather scent. Maybe that combo will approach the scent that had me waiting feverishly for Kelly Caleche (which I ALMOST did buy unsniffed. Long live The Perfumed Court for averting such disasters.) Does anyone have any ideas?
BTW, Encre Noire sounds like it is right up my alley!
Hey, and those Kenzos are such cool bottles! I'd like to have them both.
HA — I don't even know what Vento Canale is, and going to stop myself from going to find out 😉
What a shame! Lovely is nice enough but can't come close to Diorissimo — which ought not to have been that expensive at all. Parfum1 had the parfum form for about $90 recently, but don't see it there now and it is $150 at Saks.
Down and dirty leather: do you like Bandit? But do go to Perfume Smellin' Things and check out the leather directory:
http://tinyurl.com/2m48l8
Oh, Encre Noire sounds fascinating. LOL, I mostly limit my unsniffed purchases to home products (that way I can always stick them in someone else's room if I don't love them, lol), but I am sorely tempted by Badgley Mischka's new perfume Fleurs de Nuit–if only for the bottle alone! Prada Infusion D'Iris and Iris Ganache are now also beckoning…oh dear. Better stop reading for today!!!!
I have to admit that I was being a tad over-dramatic about the pricing on the Dior. I think I am just waiting for the holidays so I can ask for the parfum, which I love but can't justify as an “everyday” purchase. And Lovely isn't that bad, but my expectations for it were (perhaps) unreasonably high. I wanted a nice everyday floral; what I got instead was non-descript. But the Bandit is a great idea! And I'd forgotten that Marina has that leather list. Thanks!
LOL — I figured, but still, it shouldn't have been more than $40 for a 50 ml, I should think, if it was supposed to be at discount.
The Fleurs de Nuit bottle is even prettier in person (hate to tell you!) but I didn't like the scent at all. Not my sort of thing, maybe everyone else will love it.
I am still yearning after that Pucci Vivara bottle myself!
Sounds heavenly!
I can't remember when and what I bought unsniffed last time…my gosh, I can't be THAT good…I must have bought something or other at some point.
Wow, you really have been good! Or, your memory is as bad as mine, LOL…I've started writing down what I buy because otherwise, denial sets in 🙂
I find that if I love a scent, I immediately forget that I bought it unsniffed…and if I don't love it I just forget about it altogether, so that takes care of that! LOL
I am usually undone by a combination of the following: 1) a likely list of notes, 2) comparisons to other things I love, 3) a price under $40, 4) shopping online after 11 p.m.
My last (but not LAST) unsniffed snag was Organza Indecence, as you know. Far too successful to wean me of the habit I'm afraid. More likely to go on a no-buy…
Wanted to add that sniffing doesn't necessarily mitigate disaster for me. I'm pretty sure there are some wild cards on my shelf that I will love longer and use more often than some of the ones I bought after draining the sample…
Oh, shopping online late at night is the worst! But you lucked out w/ OI.
Completely agree about sniffing not necessarily avoiding disaster. At least, I have tons of bottles of things that I do still like but literally never reach for.
That Lalique bottle is very cool, and the scent sounds interesting, as long as I could be sure of no blackberry…hmm, such is the dilemma of buying unsniffed! I'm too cautious (and cheap) to buy unsniffed very often, but actually placed an order last night, as a matter of fact. For Messages, by Mariella Burani, which Marlen reviewed at Perfume Critic about a month ago. It's less than $15 @ perfumeport, and the bottle is gorgeous 🙂 Last unsniffed purchase was Bulgari Blv Notte, which my husband and I both love, also under $15 from perfumeport. Since then I've discovered swapping on MUA and have gotten all kinds of cool stuff, the lasted being a bottle of Niki de Saint Phalle, another unsniffed keeper. Fun post, R, enjoy your new purchase!
And I teased her. I cannot IMAGINE buying those Kenzos unsniffed! I am thrilled she liked it, of course.
My dad! So it has zero sex appeal, but I do love it just for that.
I have a wretched track record for buying unsniffed. Seriously, my track record for buying bottles of things I HAVE sniffed (usually once, followed by a passion purchase) isn't too hot either. My general rule is I have to work through a decant first, which is how I've found some keepers I didn't like the first time!
Just finished off a decant of this that I got in a swap. Like you, I get mostly vetiver and dark woods (thank goodness, no chocolate–I hate choc. in perfumes)–and I really, really like it. I'm one of the unfortunates on whom it does not last very long–still, for that price, one can afford to respray. And the bottle is to die for. So I think I will get it verrrry soon—maybe now!
Last unsniffed purchase: Yosh Kismet. After reading M's review, I couldn't resist. Quite pricey, so fortunately—I think it's great!
It really doesn't strike me as even being noticeably fruity unless you are either a) really good at picking out notes, which I'm not or b) actually looking for the blackberry.
Have never heard of the Burani, will have to check that out — and swapping is the best, isn't it?
LOL — I was thinking of high school boyfriends!
The finish-the-decant rule is a good one. I don't have time to swap as much as I used to, and except in rare occasions, too cheap to buy decants, so doesn't work for me as well as it used to! And truthfully, can't imagine ANY perfume that I need more than 10 ml of. Need to buy something every so often just so I have juice to share with others!
Curious if you had a spray or splash decant? I had already heard it was light, so applying it more heavily than I normally would, but 2-3 sprays on one spot really do make it through most of the day. I've heard people say it's gone after 2 hours, and I'm not having that problem at all.
I need to try Kismet too, glad it worked out for you!
Yeah, I know how it is when folks email you out of the blue when they know you have something 😛 I made a guilt purchase today at Art w/Flowers, I sniff so regularly over there. I wish they still had those Vosges I was addicted to (the weird goji berry sea salt ones), that was good for $50ish right there! Of course I had to hide them when I got home…
My first post didn't post — just as well, I was frenzied and In A Snit. At any rate, Encre Noir is on the way. Unsniffed, of course. I was surprised to find that parfum1 now accepts Paypal.
Last unsniffed mistake: Bois Blond. I've worn it twice, maybe three times.
HA!
I am lucky I have so little guilt — I'd be bankrupt if I bought something every place I sniff regularly!
Hey there! Actually, I have never bought anything unsniffed, but there are 2 perfumes which I have sniffed and loved (I was in my twenties, my tastes have changed somewhat), only to find out that they brought on HORRIBLE migraines, so I had to give them to my mom: Cabotine and EL Pleasures (she doesn't wear them when we see each other, thankfully). There must be a common component which does not agree with me AT ALL… Come to think of it, I will do a bit of research!
I adore this one – so glad you liked it! This one and Perles are the only Lalique fumes I like..
oh, an i nearly forgot, i really try hard buying unsniffed, i succumb from time to time, my policy is, it has to be a bargain.
encre noir was recommended to my boyfriend by a SA, i as surprised, as the other scents she picked were boring and mainstream, this one though, was deep and dark. i think i'll purchase it for him 😉 a good excuse to have it haha
Iris Poudre is the last one I bought unsniffed. No regrets at all ! I wear it all the time!
EN sounds nice, I saw it in Douglas few days ago, but I eventually decided to test L'Anarchiste by Caron (it's great!). Next time I'll try EN:)
I dont' like buying unsniffed but the last one was Molinard's Habanita and I love it.
Still haven't tried Perles, must do that!
Hi Tigerlily, I've no idea what the common component would be, but good luck finding out!
Must-sniff vetivers: Guerlain, Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire, Hermes Vetiver Tonka.
LOL — might be worth a borrow!
Ah, L'Anarchiste is a really great scent, and love that bottle too. And so glad you like Habanita — I would think that would be a risky one to order unsniffed!
My most recent (yes, that means I've done it more than once!) unsniffed purchase was Hiris. I thought it was a “safe” impulse buy–Hiris is a classic, I love iris. and I have not had a negative iris experience other than Iris Poudre (the aldehydes in that one overwhelm everything else, and I'm not an aldehyde fan). Plus I'd recently splurged on the Prada Infusion d'Iris with fantastic results, so I was feeling iris love….
I was so wrong. Hiris is a horrible mess on me–sharp, metallic, bitter. Sigh. The bottle is so beautiful. Wish the juice justified my keeping it. Can't say “never again” when it comes to unsniffed purchases, but this one taught me that even the “safe bets” are not sure things.
That Encre Noir sounds fascinating. Must. avoid. Parfum1. 😉
How interesting — sharp, metallic & bitter are accurate, but I guess I find them positive attributes — I adore Hiris. Am so sorry you find it a horrible mess. Hope you can swap it for something better! And stay away from parfum1, LOL!!
Mine was a spray, and 2 hours or so was about it. Guess I should try spraying more heavily. . . Broke down and sent for a bottle, so I will have plenty of oopurtunity to experiment!
Oh dear, well, then hope it will last longer heavily applied! I'm finding it even lasts through a shower.
I love Hiris because it's sharp, metallic and bitter. “Chemistry,” for lack of a better word, is fascinating.
Isn't it, though? I adore Iris Silver Mist b/c it's cold, earthy, and metallic–guess it's the sharp and bitter that are the killers on my skin, lol.
Rochas Absolu and Caron Fleur de Rocaille…score, and score. I like both of them…Actually, I am ready to say I love Absolu. I bought that one because Flora (aka Donna, who also writes wonderful reviews over on PST now and again) said it was pretty. And they were both dirt cheap–under $25 each! I am not always so lucky…my most recent mistake was EL PC Tuberose Gardenia. Very pretty, to be sure, but why did I need to buy a *bottle*?
2 in a row is great, congrats! So sorry you don't love the EL, which I'd guess also cost you more 🙁
I would like to add that I just purchased the new Caleche created for the NM 100th anniversary. I will let you know how it turns out!
Not to worry. I have a long line of friends and relatives who love my rejects.
Bois Blond is great for a few hours, but in the end it's just musk. Very unfortunate.
One would think that with the wide availability of samples from all the usual suspects I'd be less likely to buy unsniffed. One would be wrong. Though in the couple of months since the Perfume Court started operating I've been good: when the urge strikes I buy a decant. As you said: Decants don't count. I'm also waiting on Patty's Guerlain split, which was also totally a blind buy. Just because.
I tried EN today at Aedes. Took me a while to warm up to it, but the drydown is lovely. I'm not sure I need it, since I have Serge's VO (love the chocolate in it). It lasts well, though very close to the skin after five hours.
By the way, I ended buying Louve (which I expected to hate and ended up smitten) and Diptyque Tam Dao which both my husband and I can't stop sniffing.
I gave it only a very quick smell, but thought it was pretty. I'm fairly sure it is actually a 2003 limited edition that they've brought back for Neiman Marcus.
Congrats on your new purchases! I didn't fall for Louve, but Tam Dao and I have a long-term relationship 😉
Just the other day I ordered a Chai scented candle unsniffed, and it arived today. It hasn't left my sight. I've been HOOKED on it. It's an AMAZING fragrance. (It's by White Barn New York, btw).
Congrats — I have not done well with purchasing candles unsniffed AT ALL!
I too bought Encre Noir untested, and I love it. This is a terrific dark scent that is authoritative but not overpowering. It's a great addition to my shelf (which also inlcudes Fendi Uomo, Smalto PH, Shiseido PH, Ungaro III and many other “dark” scents). I love all of the Lalique mens' scents and will always have a bottle of each on hand.
So glad someone else got it unsniffed and loved it! I don't own any other Laliques myself, but this one is perfect.
You'll have to try the three other mens' fragrances; they are all exquisite. The “Lion” sits regail in the middle, the cedar-based “Equus” to its right, the blue (and melancholiy) “Faun” to its left. To me they are essential, Equus when I want a lift, Faun when I am feeling, yes, blue. The Lion is for everything in between.
I do sniff since october on my sample and I think it's gorgeous for a dark men. Well, it is one of the few things I adore, BUT: can I wear it?
I am a small person, and very feminine. For usual I do not care about male/female distinction on scents, but this one is very “male”.
wonder if I sould buy some TDC samples instead as I love the Ellena stuff.
I don't know…I don't think it has anything to do with what you look like or how feminine you are, just your tastes. I wear it because I love the smell of vetiver and I don't find it overwhelmingly masculine…
This smells great, but it has to be the right man, def. not for every one.
I tried the women’s version and was very disappointed. Would wear the man’s out if I could get away with it, or just around the house alone.
I don’t find the men’s that masculine, really…but I’m a vetiver fiend. Have not tried the women’s, but haven’t heard anything positive about it yet either.
Most recent un-sniffed purchase: Philosykos
Very first un-sniffed purchase: Yatagan
Both credited to reviews on NST and both raging successes.
Oh good!
ENCRE NOIRE is, so far, my fav vetiver perfume. It is absolutely FABULOUS and i love the ink note in this Masterpiece 🙂
I’ve just bought a 2 ml decant from ebay and its absolutely gorgeous!!
I’m female – like my name suggests and I think its lush for us girls too. Def unisex. The BEST vetiver on the market – no doubt and I’ve been a perfumaholic for many many years. I’m currently in love with Bottega Veneta – very sexy very sophisticated but I’m gonna go out and buy a bottle of Encre Noir as well – and what a bottle. Knock spots of the drab Chanel Noir! Both in style and smell. C’mon girls have some guts and dare to be different – wear this wonderful perfume – but on second thoughts no don’t – I’ll be the one who does and catches all the admiring compliments:)
This is a masterpiece! I’m glad after reading so many reviews looking for something different I stumbled across this heaven in a bottle.
I love this perfume as well. It was a blind buy for me. I also purchased Florabotanica. I smelled it on paper and loved the opening. Did not skin test. Really, I should know better. Long story short, Encre Noire enhances the vetiver in Florabotanica and dirtys up the clean, soapy musk that overwhelms the base. I put Florabotanica on first, then Encre Noire. A dirty musk might also be nice layered with Florabotanica.
OMG I am in love with this fragrance. A Account Executive gave me this several years back and I cannot stop wearing it. I even bought the EDP version when I saw it 1/2 off of its $750 price tag as I figured I was buying a work of art and I did. Numbered and all ;@)