Elixir des Merveilles is the latest release from Hermès, and the third in the Merveilles line, following Eau des Merveilles and Parfum des Merveilles. It was created by perfumer Jean Claude Ellena and has notes of chocolate-covered candied orange peel, caramel, vanilla biscuit (vanilla sugar, tonka bean), creamy milk, sandalwood, incense, resins, ambergris, Peru balsam and balsam of Siam, oak, patchouli and cedar.
I was rather taken aback when I saw the list of notes for Elixir des Merveilles. Folding Eau des Merveilles into a sugary dessert doesn't strike me as an obvious choice, and the whole thing sounded so over-the-top foody, especially for Jean Claude Ellena.
The good news: it isn't really over-the-top foody. To be sure, it is sweet, especially in the top notes. The sparkling clear orange of Eau des Merveilles has been replaced with candied orange peel, lightly dusted with cocoa powder. Lightly is the operative word here — it did not, like Aquolina Chocolovers, send me dashing off to the pantry in a desperate search for chocolate. The milk is closer to that "cloud of milk" in Paul & Joe Blanc than to a creamy pudding, and the caramel is likewise subtle (think Frederic Malle Eau d'Hiver). It is still more transparent than dense, and isn't nearly as rich or warm as the Parfum des Merveilles. So, a bit of dessert, yes, but not massive overindulgence.
After around 20 minutes, the strains of the original Eau des Merveilles start to come through, and most of the dessert components recede, leaving only the comparatively austere vanilla biscuit and a tiny slice of orange. I do like the dry down, but still, Elixir des Merveilles doesn't have quite the same understated elegance of Eau des Merveilles, and while it is more obviously feminine, somehow it isn't as sexy. I would describe it as a "fun" perfume, very wearable, and well worth trying. I like it but don't love it, which leads me to...
The bad news: I bought Elixir des Merveilles unsniffed. As is often the case, I did so not because I was really dying to have it, but just because I was feeling stressed and so was dying to buy something, and it seemed like the most likely choice since Dzongkha isn't for sale yet. In my defense, I have hardly bought anything this year, so unless I go crazy between now and December I won't even begin to approach last year's rate of acquisition. But adding to my annoyance is that I've discovered this week that I do love Eau des Merveilles, so now I'm kicking myself for not buying it when it was available in that stunning constellation bottle. Drat.
Elixir des Merveilles is an Eau de Parfum, and the lasting power is good. It is available at Hermès boutiques now in 50 and 100 ml bottles, and should be more widely available at department stores soon.
Side note: as I discovered quite by accident this morning, Elixir des Merveilles layers quite nicely with Terre d'Hermès.
Robin, too bad Elixir isn't completely what you hoped for. Nevertheless, I really do understand the reason why you bought it. The bottle itself is already to die for and sometimes… there's just a need to spend some money. By the way, kudo's to Now Smell This, it is really growing by the day and becoming a very smart, elegant source of information. Keep up the good work, to the entire crew!
Robin-
I'm so sorry that you're not smitten…but glad it layers well.
I don't know if you like Ambre Narguile, but they layer very well… and if it's too sweet, you might want to layer Kuumba Amber Paste with it, to give it a richer, more resinous feel.
Have a good w/e-
I was not particularly taken by it either. It certainly does not seem to improve upon the original. I agree that adding vanilla biscuit to Eau des Merveilles seems wrong.
How strange that ellena went gourmand!! (although light)
Now regarding the layering of Terre D'hermes I think it is the PERFECT fragrance for layering, as it lacks a formal base… and perhaps I posted something about that before…
I am testing layering it over some cheap musks (á la Sarah Jessica) or vetiver, or tobaccos..or White musks, but can´t seem to find pure white musks, and armani white HE is too much of a good thing to go around layering. (I have been complimented about it a lot)
Oh my god, I must realize by now that I have an obsession with fragrances! 🙂
Thanks for the sympathy and the nice words about the site! Yes, the Merveilles bottles are just wonderful. I meant to note in yesterday's article that they are by Serge Mansau, and you can actually lay the bottle flat and use it as a magnifying glass. Way cool 🙂
I like Ambre Narguile very much, but don't adore it and don't wear it often — not a huge amber fan, so the Amber Paste would only make matters worse 🙂 Vetiver Tonka is my favorite of the Hermessences.
You have a good w/e too!
Ok, so if we were designing what we would have liked as the third in the Merveilles trio, what would it have been? I was thinking about it this morning and came up with nothing. Which is why I'm not a perfumer, LOL…but you ought to come up with something 😉
I'll have to experiment with the TdH some more. I rarely layer unless it is by accident (e.g. I forget I already have something on) but then sometimes I surprise myself that way and find lovely combinations.
[Begin moment of unspeakable childish cruelty] Nyah-nyah! I have the lovely Constellation bottle, as well as the beautiful Parfum! [Return to normal, semi-adult state] If you really want the Constellation bottle, it is available at a good price from Imagination (and it was also in the Boston boutique yesterday, at a much worse price:). But I see you may have hooked up with a better deal!
I was less disturbed by the vanilla bisuit tha V. notes than by the chocolate. It's funny, b/c I love to eat chocolate, but I destest it in fragrances. And the opening of this, to me, smelled exactly like chocolate covered orange-peel (I am not usually good at notes; but this was unmistakable). Also–the saltiness of the Eau/parfum seems to have receded, and that was one of my favorite parts! For myself, I'm not sure that the Merveilles scents needed a third at all. Why mess with perfection?
On the other hand, the SA at NM with whom we chatted for awhile yesterday seemed quite genuinely to love it. She confessed that she didn't really care for the other Merveilles scents, but ADORED this one! So I guess ithat t will do well. . . .
LOL — and I'm sticking my tongue out at you too!
I don't always hate chocolate in scent. Actually I think Chocolovers is a fun scent too…but that's just the thing, I don't want a “fun” Merveilles, I want the sexy (& salty…maybe that is the sexy part?) Merveilles.
But also guessing you're right, it will do well. The bottles make it an easy sell anyway!
Is it really about spending money or is it about the anticipation of you're special little gift making it's way to you from where ever and the thoughts in between that this un-sniffed little masterpiece just may be THE ONE! The one they made especially for you, the one that just describes the real you. All of your fantastic layers and moods, the one you will spray on yourself and from the very first sniff will just …well, complete you. The one you've been searching for.
It's like that for me, everytime. At least every couple of months I do this, I find something out there lurking and I make the purchase, un-sniffed just positive that this one will be the one. And it ain't. You would think I would learn from this but I don't. It's an obsession, a sickness maybe. The thrill of the hunt. And then it arrives, you spritz, sniff and usually say “Meh…” And the cycle goes on…. and on and on and……
Oh yes, it is definitely about having something possibly fabulous on its way in the mail…although I'm not really looking for the scent that “describes the real me”…not a “searching for the Holy Grail” kind of person. Just want one more scent I'll love!
Elixir des Merveilles wasn't really a “meh”…it isn't a dull scent. Just not what I had in mind.
I can't wait to try the elixir version, I am a gourmand lover! I just got yet another unsniffed in the mail, Sarah Horowitz new Love scent from Barneys. I'm kicking myself too right now. The clove note is amazing but the rose is just too much for me. Another one bites the dust, on to the next!
Oooh, this Love stuff is getting better and better, maybe this is not regret, LOL!!!!
Good news since you already have the bottle, LOL! I need to try that trio myself.
Hi. I'm new to your site. Great site!
I have the Elixir and I love it and I read your review of the Elixir and the Eau and, while I like the Eau, for me it's too soft and feminine. The Elixir is a bit harsher, stronger and sexier. It has an edge to it that really turns me on. I guess that's why God invented so many ice cream flavors- there's something for everyone out there!
Hi and welcome! So glad you found one to love, and you're so right, there is something for everyone! Wonder if they'll do a 4th “flavor” of Merveilles next year…
After wearing Eau de Merveilles for a month, my boyfriend broke down and told me it had to go! The part of it that reads as tangy-sharp & masculine was burning his sinuses and making him miserable. He knew I loved wearing it and tried valiently to tolerate it but in the end, I gave the bottle away to my friend.
So I was very happy to read the review for Elixer de Merveilles. I'd worn Bulgari Omnia for years and am very partial to that sort of deep sweet-spicy scent that comes across as sexy, not sugary. I'm nuts about Elixer and my sweetheart likes it, too. Also, thanks so much for your spot-on review. Even though you weren't falling in love with Elixer, I could tell it was something that I'd find remarkable!
A nicely happy ending to a sad story — it's terrible when an SO doesn't love what you love. Glad you found the Elixir!
Finally, my HG scent, very Hermes-esque: unique smell, good sillage & lasting power, sophisticated. A lot of compliments and (positive) inquiries I got from wearing this scent. Thank you for reviewing this, Robin.
So glad!