A recent Friday Community Project made me think about one of my favorite fragrance sub-genres, which I'll call "vintage vanity" — perfumes that evoke the scent of lipsticks and the spilled residue of dusting powder, and sometimes even the wood of an old dressing table. I have a few favorites in this category: Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose and L'Artisan Parfumeur Drôle de Rose are probably my top choices, but I've also tried and enjoyed Gabriella Chieffo Camaheu, Chanel Misia, Maison Martin Margiela Replica Lipstick On — you get the idea.
For this fragrance, indie perfumer Francesca Bianchi wears her influences proudly on her scented sleeve: she mentions Lipstick Rose's "'make-up memories" as well as État Libre d'Orange Putain des Palaces' "feminine seduction and decadent dirty sensuality" as two favorites that inspired the creation of Angel's Dust. This perfume, "reminiscent of an elegant boudoir," is intended to evolve from "powdery" and "innocent" to "intense" and "decadent." Its notes include black pepper, mimosa, rose, iris, musk, sandalwood, tolu balsam, benzoin and vanilla.
Kevin wrote a positive review of Bianchi's Etruscan Water last month, and I'm feeling favorably impressed by Angel's Dust. As he said of Etruscan Water, Angel's Dust is "old-fashioned (in the best sense)." It's definitely not going to appeal to anyone seeking something "fresh" or youthful, but if you have a taste for vintage clothing and antique furniture, you'll understand its allure. Angel's Dust is definitely dust-y, due to its notes of mimosa and iris, but it's not fluffy — it has a darker side. For example, there's something almost camphoraceous in the opening, like a deeper mint note; is one of the resins coming out to play in this manner? The woods under the dusky florals suggest cedar as well as sandalwood, with a hint of some almost — but not quite — animalic musk. (A hundred years ago, the perfumer would have added a drop of natural civet oil!) The dry down is still dusky and powdery, with a touch of creamy, rose-y vanilla.
Angel's Dust is the olfactory equivalent of an old black-and-white photo: no bright or saturated colors, but lots of shadowy textures in a range of grays. It has average sillage and persistence on my skin, and it's not as conventionally feminine as most lipstick-and-powder perfumes. Men who favor dusty, woody iris scents should also find it to their liking. In times of stress, I find "vintage vanity" scents even more comforting than gourmands, so I've been savoring my sample of Angel's Dust. We all need to find a sense of security where we can, these days.
Francesca Bianchi Angel's Dust is available as 30 ml Extrait de Parfum. It can be found in the US at Indigo Perfumery for $135; Indigo also offers samples for purchase.
Very nice review of a fragrance that sounds appealing to me. Thanks…trotting off to get a sample….
I’ve been curious about this line for a while. For some reason I was slow to realize that I could order samples via Indigo Perfumery, which I definitely recommend!
Love “Under my Skin” and I’m very tempted to blind buy this one…
I haven’t tried that one yet! I’ll be reviewing another soon soon, though…
Something with Neroli in the name maybe?
Very close!!
You had me at:
Angel’s Dust is the olfactory equivalent of an old black-and-white photo: no bright or saturated colors, but lots of shadowy textures in a range of grays.
Lovely description! And now I want a sample, lol.
If my favorite perfumes were colors, they wouldn’t be particularly bold or bright in most cases! hah. This one definitely feels B&W or sepia… very shadowy and artfully faded!
I loved adding a sepia tint to photos in my photography class back in the day. Now you can just push a button to add a filter..but it doesn’t compare to a truly toned, grainy, black n white print. However, much time is saved with modern software!
I agree! I’ve had the good fortune to look at lots of old (early 1900s!) photographs at various jobs, and there’s nothing quite like them…but I also appreciate the convenience of all the tech we have at our fingertips!
There is not one of Francesca Bianchi’s perfumes that I don’t like…just some that I love a little more. Angel’s Dust is one of them.
Isn’t it great, finding a new line that you love? I encountered FB at a small trade-show event in NYC months and months ago…there were about a dozen lines represented, but this was one of the few that stuck in my memory.
Lovely to see your take on Angel’s Dust, Jessica!
I wrote about it in 2018 (gosh, time flies!) and also found it pretty much a boudoir type of scent.
Definitely an old-fashioned boudoir! She mentions her love of Rococo art and style, which also makes sense…
I just thought of another boudoir-ish fragrance: the first Dita von Teese perfume, the one in the black bottle. I own a travel-size spray of it…so good.
Have you tried 1889 from Histoires de Parfums?
It’s inspired by Moulin Rouge.
I actually didn’t care for that one on myself, although I love the concept! I haven’t really found anything from that house that worked for me…
Is the black pepper noticeable? Everything about this sounds perfect to me, but prominent pepper notes can distract me.
Hi M! I wouldn’t describe it as a peppery fragrance. There might be just a faint of pepper in the iris…but the pepper doesn’t really stand out on its own. hth!
Lovely review, Jessica. I like this one, and most others from FB, very much. Her line is one where I’ve had a hard time deciding which bottle to buy first.
I love hearing this. She seems to passionate about her creations and she has a really specific aesthetic. I hope she continues to find loyal fans!