tl;dr a decent middle of the road vanilla.
If you wanted a good illustration of the muddy distinction between niche and mainstream perfumery, you could hardly find a better example than Annick Goutal. The house mostly made its name with classic colognes like Eau d'Hadrien and Eau du Sud, and a handful of pretty feminine florals. When I reviewed Eau de Camille and Eau de Charlotte back in 2007, I noted that...
The Annick Goutal line occupies a rather in-between place among perfume fans — the company probably qualifies as niche based on their size and their limited distribution; still, they are available in a number of mainstream stores (three department stores in my local mall carry them),1 and the line doesn't feel niche. The feminine perfumes are emphatically pretty, romantic even; they don't, like so many niche perfumes, challenge traditional notions of what a woman ought to smell like.
What I perhaps didn't emphasize enough was how few mainstream brands were making nicely done yet emphatically pretty fragrances at the time — Annick Goutal was not really experimenting with the boundaries of perfume in the same way as Serge Lutens or Comme des Garçons, but you weren't likely to smell Eau de Camille and mistake it for a Calvin Klein or Michael Kors fragrance. And the line always had its little oddities, perhaps more in the masculine line than the feminine: from Sables (1985) to Eau du Fier (2000) to Duel (2003).
The house went through what I now think of as a quasi-experimental period under Camille Goutal, dating from 2004/2005 (Vanille Exquise and Mandragore) through 2012 (Nuit Étoilée). Since then, the brand's strategy has appeared to me to be twofold. They've targeted a younger, more mainstream audience with light, cheerful, not-really-perfumista-bait fragrances like Vent de Folie, L'Ile au Thé and Rose Pompon, and they've gone after the always-tempting luxury market with the Les Absolues fragrances Vanille Charnelle, Ambre Sauvage, 1001 Ouds and Rose Oud.
Last year, with Tenue de Soirée, the break with the past seemed complete, and in case you didn't get the message from the juice, they even did away with the brand's classic romantic packaging in favor of the more of-the-moment detachable pompoms and charms. You can pretty much take what I said about Tenue de Soirée...
The 'quirky' is all in the pompom, but Tenue de Soirée is well done. It's youthful without being obnoxious or silly, and it's reasonably sophisticated, and quite wearable. If you like the idea of a gourmand fruitchouli sort of thing but find most of them too loud to wear, it is certainly worth trying.
...and apply it to the new Nuit et Confidences, which is from the same perfumer, Mathieu Nardin, and which does for the vanilla category exactly what Tenue de Soirée did for a gourmand fruitchouli. It's meant to evoke 'champagne bubbles and sequin dresses', and while I'd probably put it in a cashmere sweater instead, it's close enough. The opening is just sparkling and bright enough to justify the champagne reference, then it's a middleweight amber-y vanilla with fruity undertones and a light floral trail. The dry down is slightly resinous, slightly spicy, slightly woody, and is just (barely) boozy enough to make me think of a raisin-vanilla liqueur, if such a thing existed (and for all I know, it does). It's not too dry, not too sweet, and it won't remind you of cake or pudding.
Verdict: I really like Nuit et Confidences — it's a well executed, reasonably sophisticated vanilla, not so light as Eau d'Italie Morn to Dusk or Diptyque Eau Duelle,2 not so heavy as L'Artisan Vanille Absolument or Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille. I found it enjoyable to wear in our (finally!) early fall weather. That said, there's really nothing distinctive about it, and the far dry down is not all that exciting — it's very middle of the (already well-traveled) road, and I found it less interesting than the brand's own Vanille Exquise (sadly, I don't really remember Vanille Charnelle; do comment if you can describe it). I like it, but I'm not yearning to own it. Still, if you love the packaging or if you have not yet found your perfect vanilla, or if you've been hankering after the Guerlain but want something (much) cheaper, it's well worth sampling.2
As for Annick Goutal, what can I say? All my favorite niche brands are going mainstream, and all of the mainstream brands are trying to go niche.
The quick vanilla poll: name your favorite vanilla or vanilla-amber fragrance.
Annick Goutal Nuit et Confidences features notes of bergamot, pepper, frankincense, tonka bean, vanilla and white musk. It is available in 30 ($80), 50 ($125) or 100 ($190) ml Eau de Parfum.
1. Their distribution has changed significantly since I wrote that. Only one store local to me, Neiman Marcus, still carries the brand. US customers can now buy directly from a dedicated US Annick Goutal webstore, though, complete with free shipping.
2. Although I tried Eau Duelle in Eau de Toilette, not Eau de Parfum. Perhaps the Eau de Parfum is not so light.
3. The Guerlain is currently $260 (!) for 75 ml.
Can’t stand vanilla in a fragrance. My Secret deodorant is called “Chill Ocean” and smells like vanilla. I can’t wait till it’s done and I won’t buy another. The same thing happened with a so-called ocean breeze shower gel I once had. Too much vanilla. Don’t mind it in food; don’t want to smell it. Don’t know why.
Doesn’t matter why, if you don’t like it, you don’t like it, right?
Deodorant is the worst — I had one I liked used it for years, then they discontinued it. I keep buying them now and hating the scents. Sometimes I can’t make myself finish the whole tube…
Celestia, I used to be just like you. HATED vanilla in perfumes. “Why does everyone want to smell like a cupcake?” is what I asked. Then I came to realize what I actually hated was the pedestrian, heavy handed execution of vanilla in a lot of scents, because I’ve gone on to find some truly lovely vanillas (of course, my absolute favorite, by brand Ava Luxe, was discontinued and I never found anything quite like it, but do admire and wear Dame’s Black Flower.
sayitisntso: so glad there’s someone else out there like me. I think Guerlain’s Ylang & Vanille was very well done, if you like vanilla. I love lime but cannot wear Eau de Shalimar. Why are there so many different perfumes on the market? Because we all like something different!
Ylang & Vanille is fabulous! Wish Guerlain would bring it back. 🙂
Secret makes a non-scented one and although hard to find I found a store recently that has a whole bunch, so guess who went nuts buying deodorant.
Floragal, thank you! I have no idea why I don’t want unscented. My old one was a citrus scent with no white musk / laundry smell, and I want that one back! Eventually I will give up and go to unscented.
I use the unscented Secret too. You really have to look for it though. My Target sells it, but there will be one of it surrounded by ten other Secret products.
I always bought unscented deodorant until I started using Old Spice Amber. I love it, and i hope I can find it again when I need to replace it. I use the Old Spice, my husband uses unscented.
I hate scented deodorant but choices are noexistant for “men.” Especially since I don’t use antiperspirant.
Have you tried the crystal stuff? It comes in both a solid and a spray, and some of the sprays I’ve tried were really effective.
I used to use a citrus deodorant and like to have a scented one. Now I have a waterlily one which I think I will enjoy. Can’t stand baby powder deodorants because the talc is bad for breathing problems. My husband insists on unscented because back in the ’60’s scented deodorants and sweat were a deadly combination. Now scented deodorants don’t have that aspect.
I use hippie deodorants for that reason (and also because I use deodorant and not antiperspirant.) My H & I have been using Weleda Wild Rose for ages; I also have some Toms of Maine (whatever scent) around. Even when scented, they tend have very mild non-assaultive smells.
Indult Tihota is probably my favorite sweet vanilla.
BUT I do really like vanilla in perfume and feel like I have to mention a few more! 🙂 Vanille 44, Black Flower Mexican Vanilla, Xerjoff Lira, Vanille Insensee is good for layering with other scents, Sublime Vanille, Zafeer Oud Vanille.
Mention as many as you like 🙂
The Indult is darned expensive too, and the Le Labo is even worse, and the Creed even worse than that! I need to try the Black Flower Mexican Vanilla, which is a bargain.
Sublime Vanilla is my perfect citrus vanilla. Pricey, but worth it. A little goes a long way too.
I completely agree with Elizabeth’s recommendations. I would add Vanilla-le by Jacques Zolty, Nabucco Amatys and Dior’s Five Deleceuse
I’ll put in another vote for Jacques Zolty Van-Ile! I might even like it better than Tihota because the orange seems to balance it out and make it seem less sweet.
Favorite vanilla of late? I’d probably go with Dame’s Black Flower Mexican Vanilla as well, although I’ve only worn the perfume oil version (it’s the only version available for export.)
Re: the Goutal brand: I’ll always have a fondness for the house and will try anything new when I pass one of their freestanding shops here. It was my first foray into niche, before I actually knew what niche was (back in 1994) and before I fell headfirst down the perfume rabbit hole. I can’t help but wonder though, with this new packaging and chasing of a younger customer base, if they risk alienating the customers who’ve kept the brand afloat all these years- through its many changes of ownership and spotty US distribution. Me no likey this new packaging but preparing for the worst, I’d stocked up on all my favorites and they’re in cold storage! 🙂
I was just looking at the Black Flower Mexican Vanilla (see comment above) and Smallflower does sell the EdP.
On the one hand, I think AG was the gateway for many perfumistas. On the other, it’s a shorter distance between Folavril and Nuit et Confidences than it is between Nombre Noir and Dent de Lait? By which I mean it is not the brand that makes me saddest.
Point taken, Robin! A little context is everything!
I sometimes struggle with vanilla. Lots of vanillas turn out too screechy, too foody (ice cream) or too cloying for me. Probably skin chemistry or i just cant stand a certain type of vanilla.
Example: Mugler’s Aura is just too much, it was a scrubber for me. Urgh i felt soooo uncomfortable wearing that.
Some fragrances I love that contain a good amount of vanilla or a leave vanilla-esque impression:
Dark horse (dame)
Ambra aurea (profumum roma)
Ambre Loup (rania j)
Incense royala (sultan pasha attars)
Truffe blanche (sultan padha attars)
‘Incense royale’ that is.
Oh and as for Annick Goutal, I really like some of their fragrances, but most of them are a bit too ‘ladylike’ for me (if that makes any sense at all…).
And I am wearing Dark horse right now by the way. Really love it. Sample is almost empty….that 10 ml rollerball is really smiling at me now…..oh and the price is nice too…and fee international shipping…whats not to like… so happy to discover brands like this…haha
Yes, they specialized in ladylike! But since ladylike is actually hard to find (at least, well done & with good materials) I appreciated that even though some were too ladylike for me.
Ahh. I don’t know that I’d have come up with “ladylike” on my own, but most Goutals don’t do it for me. Too “ladylike” is a good way of putting it. I did acquire Encens Flamboyant and Myrrhe Ardente recently, though, and they are much more my style. Bigger, bolder, louder, and all that 😉
Huh…Are my fingers getting fatter? All those typos haha.
No, the keys are getting smaller 😉
😀
This goed for pants as well, right? They just shrink overtime 😉
But of course!
Thanks for The review Robin. I still haven’t tried that Tenue de Soiree.
My favorite vanilla is Aedes Cierge de Lune, hands down.
But few honorable mentions go to Histoires de Parfums 1725, Prada Olfactories Marienbad & Atelier des Ors Lune Feline.
Cierge is a great scent 🙂
I only really like Jicky, Shalimar and Pour Un Homme. I’ve tried a score of smoky niche vanillas (Mona di Orio, Nicolai, Memoirs of a Trespasser, Vaniglia del Madagscar etc) but something ends up bugging me in all of them.
I do like Memoirs. The iPF is too cake-y for me. Jicky and Shalimar, of course!
Actually I love Anima Dulcis but don’t think of it as mainly vanilla – lovely warm dusty chilli chocolate.
I feel similarly. Havana Vanille and Spirituese were super annoying on me! I always try though.
I “discovered” Annick Goutal during my first trip to Paris in the early 1990s and bought my first bottle there at the flagship store…was thrilled beyond belief when I discovered that SFA in NYC carried the line (and had Bogos three times a year on the 100ml bottles which were in the range of 80-90 dollars back then)…I did consider it niche back then but probably would not now.
Favorite vanillas? Coty’s Vanilia Field (vintage), Vanille Insensee, Black Flower Mexican Vanilla, Pacifica’s d/c Vanilla Vera Cruz, Pacifica’s Island Vanilla, SL Un Bois Vanille, Earth Mother, Berdoues Vanira Moorea..oh lordie I could go on and on and on…
However, the middle child CM8 recently inherited all the vanilla samples I had tried and passed on to her (she is a vanilla FIEND) and rather than sampling them one by one she dumped them all (must have been somewhere in the vicinity of 30 or more vials…not all were full) into a one ounce empty bottle and added a bit of dark patchouli and lavender absolute…one would think this would not work but surprisingly it does…I have actually worn it a few times…talk about “reeeeeking havoc” 🙂
Oh and my vanilla bean homemade body oil is my current vanilla love.
Aha, a budding perfumer! Good for her.
And ringthing just reminded me that I loved Addict (vintage..which I had when it first came out…current stuff does not smell the same to me)
I love Goutal, and le Chèvrefeuille was my first niche purchase. I haven’t really enjoyed their latest offerings though, but then again, I do still try them, whereas I gave up on Serge a while ago. Mind you, his never were my favourite fragrances, although I do admire him for the collection he has created.
Favourite vanilla is: Vanilia by L’Artisan Parfumeur. “Enjoy it with a banana float, a sunburn and really loud music. There will always be time for refinement later.” (some of my favourite lines in The Guide)
Le Chèvrefeuille was such a great scent — and I appreciate that they bring back the soliflores every so often. Haven’t smelled a new bottle recently though, no idea if it’s still as good.
Hi Austenfan, I tried La chevrefeuille from the big sample stash you sent me in the swapmeet.
It is such a great uplifting and well balanced scent! Has the same effect on me Moon bloom has…instant big smile. Thank you again for the generous sample, because I really love it!
Heure exquise is also gorgeous btw 🙂
I’m glad that you enjoy those two! I wear my fragrances from Goutal (with Parfums de Nicolaï and Divine) the most. And I remember so well that first try of Le Chèvrefeuille that I had blind bought somewhere, based on Robin’s review and my own fondness for the real flowers and honeysuckle-scented soaps.
I like my vanillas boozy and/or smoky, so L’artisan Havana Vanille and Guerlain SDV are my favorites (although at $260 a pop, I’ll be sticking to decants). As for AG, I love Ninfeo Mio & Songes.
$260 is really just plain silly.
Still surprised L’Artisan got rid of Havana Vanille — how could that not sell?? At least they’re still making Traversee.
Re Traversée/Bosphore, gave a 50-mL blind buy from Winners to my niece who, after a single sniff, snatched it out of my hand and ran up the stairs to stash it in her room. Vanilla and I have agreed to disagree. Does anyone know of a smoky/ciggy vanilla? Mayhap Habanita? I am not a smoker, but a childhood memory of the smell of leather purse, cigarettes and Juicy Fruit gum (sister) makes me happy.
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille, Aftelier Vanilla Smoke, Imaginary Authors Memoirs of a Trespasser, Tauerville Vanilla Flash
Many thanks, much appreciated! I like Imaginary Authors.
Definitely a vanilla lover here, as long as it isn’t too, too sweet. Favorites include Angelique Noire, Shalimar…Mexique, Eau Duelle, VCA Orchidee Vanille (this one is pushing it a bit on the sweetness), Boucheron Trouble, Chopard Casmir (very lightly applied!), and Tendre Madeleine.
OOO! thanks for reminding me, I have a mini bottle of Trouble….that one is so good!
I should have bought Shalimar … Mexique when it was still around, probably.
Yes! Tendre Madeleine is lovely!
VC&A is the une that made me first like vanilla. Before that, I disliked it. My main vanilla is Gourmand Coquin and also the No. 57 by Arquiste for J. Crew. I like vanilla now, but I like it boozy or smoky.
Sort of off topic, but disappointed they didn’t do more Arquiste / J Crew fragrances.
I forgot about my rollerball of No. 57 – think I’ll wear that tomorrow! I also love the boozy sweetness.
Love J. Crew No. 57! Jo Malone’s Whisky and Cedarwood is a lot like it and also by Yann Vasnier.
I’m very very rarely a vanilla guy. Like, Shalimar and that’s it. But I did just buy a bottle of Mat Chocolat for $10 at Marshalls and for the price I like what it’s doing. Almost qualifies for a wood pudding tag, very soft vanilla and woods.
I would try this but I haven’t noticed AG at my local Neimans. I’m sure it’s there though. Apparently the one here in Houston has some of the highest perfume sales in the country.
That’s probably because the Galleria gets so many visitors from Mexico and South America.
Really, Shalimar is enough 🙂
Goutal’s Vanille Charnelle I absolutely loved! Blew me away when I smelled it a couple weeks ago, when I first encountered those new luxury bottles (Les Absolues) at Saks in Brickell City Centre. Too expensive for me, though. If I wanted to spend that much I’d just buy more vintage Shalimar parfum.
Can you compare it to anything else?
I love many vanillas. My most recent vanilla purchase (a while back now) was Fève Délicieuse (CD Collection Privee). The other day in a perfume shop, I fell in love with Andy Tauer’s Tauerville Vanilla Flash and I’m seriously considering a purchase. Of course I adore and own Shalimar and L’Ambre de Marveille, two perfumes that I can’t always wear though. Other vanillas I love:
Vanille Insensee (Atelier Cologne)
Vanille Galante (Hermes)
Colette (Tocca)
Bois de Vanille (SL); but the original
Coze (parfumerie generale)
Tobacco Vanille (TF)
On the subject of Annick Goutal, other than Un Matin D’Orage (which I haven’t worn in ages), I’m struggling to maintain any interest in the brand.
Nice list! I still wear Mandragore, and if they brought back Folavril I’d probably buy it.
Thank you for the review, Robin. Nuit et Confidences sounds like a bit too light and ‘safe’ for me, but who knows…
When I think of favorite vanilla fragrances, two scents immediately come to mind: Shalimar (sophisticated and complex) and Cologne of the Missions by Le Couvent des Minimes (cozy and straightforward). My favorite amber is probably Ambre Sultan.
I also like Eau Duelle (unusual: soft, smoky vanilla and fresh juniper) and Hypnotic Poison (sexy almond-vanilla) very much.
Oh, and I’ve recently tried Reminiscence Tonka and thought it was a very nice vanilla-centric perfume (although maybe I confuse tonka with vanilla). And your post reminded me that I’ve got a sample of Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille but have not tried it yet. So many fragrances, so little time.
The Guerlain is pretty fantastic. Don’t even try it, it’s so expensive. Hypnotic Poison is yum.
I love Sables and need to buy more (if they still make it). Le Labo Poivre 23, in their typical way, is more vanilla-patchouli with a pepper blast only at the start. I love it.
They still make Sables 🙂
The only fragrance with vanilla in its name (or as a dominant note) that I like is Vanille Galante. Otherwise, when I put a great perfume with even a little bit of vanilla (like Penhaligon’s Amaranthine or L’Artisan Piment Brulant), I very well know that eventually it will start to bother me. Nowadays, I don’t even sample fragrances that list vanilla in their notes. However, the mystery (please help!) is why amber as a note does not have that annoying effect on me (L’Ambre des Merveilles is great. L’Artisan L’Eau d’Ambre is also very nice in colder weather).
I have no help to offer!
It’s so seldom that I’m anywhere near a mall or department store that I’ve never come across a a counter featuring AG so what I’ve tried are samples from MUA swapping, years ago. Nothing ever really caught my attention except Sables because it was so unique. As for vanilla, my favorites are non sweet: Parfums de Nicolai Vanille Tonka, Memoirs of a Trespasser and Dior Addict.
Ah, I always forget the PdN! Maybe I should do a year of seasonal vanilla posts.
Oh yes, I would definitely enjoy that post!
The blue color of this AG bottle is so pretty, and I really like the smaller bottle option so I might try this. The Guerlain SDV – I loved the sample and got a bottle, after which I didn’t like it as much as I was hoping. Swapped it and got word it leaked (bulb sprayer) ???????? so that prevents any further purchases from that Guerlain line plus it’s ao expensive. Love reading the vanilla scents listed here.
Not to enable or anything but Guerlain is phasing out the impractical bulb atomizer bottles and have already started to,ship the regular atomizer type. You can specifically request this type.
Thanks! I might try again then!
Agree, like the colors on this & Tenue.
Favorite vanilla? Easy: Pour un Homme. Favorite amber / vanilla: Ambre Sultan. Both are very appealing to me, so much so that I think I have a multi-year supply safely on hand.
Yes, Pour un Homme is perfect.
Robin & SFguy –
Do you know if the version of Pour un Homme currently available at the discounters is decent quality?
No, I know absolutely nothing! I don’t buy anything Caron for just that reason.
???? duly noted!
It’s what I have and like so much.
I can’t pretend to know why but the Caron masculines don’t seem to get screwed with. PuH, le 3eme Homme, and Yatagan are all going strong, at least as far as I can tell.
Thanks SFguy! good to know, purchasing can be such a shot in the dark.
Thank you for the review, Robin. Will look for a tester of Nuit et Confidences though the white musk note is probably a deal breaker. I do like the new bottle as much as the old style. (**ducks**)
I adore Songes, my perfect Goutal, for me it has very little vanilla. I wear it less than I should. Often it is an absent-minded comfort spritz from the travel atomizer in my purse.
Vanille Galante is my favorite scent with vanilla in the name. Vanille Insensee and Dame BFM Vanilla are my choices for layering when I want a vanilla boost. Geisha Vanilla Hinoki’s very unusual vanilla is fabulous.
re: deodorant, for anyone who’s still reading, I’ve found Sure unscented solid is the closest to a truly scentless one. It never clashes with perfume.
I don’t dislike the new bottle, you needn’t duck! I just thought the old bottle style was a perfect fit with the brand, and I liked the brand…so. Bear in mind that I’m still disturbed by Diptyque’s switch from square to oval bottles, so I’m also just a creature of habit.
Songes is my perfect AG too, and the vanilla is present but beautifully harmonised with the other notes. Wearing it early now, on a mild early summer evening. Perfect!
My favorite vanillas are:
Acqua e Zucchero by Profumum Roma, M Micallef Ylang in Gold, and VCA Bois d’Iris. The first is like lemon poundcake and happy. The second is rich, warm and juicy. The last is dry and elegant.
I need to try Acqua e Zucchero!
Ditto!
“As for Annick Goutal, what can I say? All my favorite niche brands are going mainstream, and all of the mainstream brands are trying to go niche.”
I think you have the makings of a Bob Dylan song there, Robin! 😉
Seriously, this makes me sad, because Annick Goutal was my first niche brand, back in the 1980s. Nonetheless, this should encourage us to appreciate the exceptions to the rule, like Bruno Fazzolari, Anné Pliska, Barbara Herman, Arielle Shoshana, Olivia Giacobetti/Iunx, (to name just a few examples) all the more.
I am not as sad about perfume as I was 5 years ago, but that’s partially because “no point crying over spilled milk”, I guess? Things change, there’s nothing you can do. For all I know, these changes are key to AG’s survival, in which case, we should cheer them on so they’ll keep making the ones we *do* like.
Favorite vanillas so far (haven’t explored many yet): Anne Klein II; Shalimar EDC; J. Crew No. 57. Two of the three are discontinued …
Figures, right?
I know! And people loved those two! AKII goes for outrageous prices on ebay these days. No. 57 is edging up. I wish J. Crew would do more Arquiste collaborations.
Oh my I’m late to the party – as usual. I guess I would call myself a vanilla lover – although I will admit that some do have that annoying quality of synthetic sweetness. I never know until I try.
Favs would def have to include the grand dame Guerlain SDV,
Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille
Le Labo Vanille 44
Farmacia SS. Annunziata, Perla (although not as much as I’d thought I would…)
Mancera Roses Vanille (yum!!)
Yes, I absolutely love Mancera Roses Vanille! Very candy-sweet but in a good way.
Nice list! I should try the Roses Vanille, that sounds lovely.
I like vanillas that aren’t overly gourmand or sweet. I have Shalimar Ode a la Vanille and liked Tobacco Vanille. I also have a travel spray of AC Vanille Insensee, but that one is more on the sweet side and I rarely wear it.
At least it’s only a travel spray (?)
Thank you for this review Robin – both of the Goutals in the newer bottles sounds like something I might want to try.
I love the newer bottles – the ombre glass, the charms the pom-poms
But I really love the traditional packaging – that bottle just rests in the palm of your hand so perfectly – the box is phenomenal that and the best part is that knoby lid, opening the door to a new fragrant experience !! ????????
And I love the Goutal story – she was so beautiful & I love the mother-daughter story
Well, same. I like the new, don’t want to lose the old.