Annick Goutal introduced Vanille Exquise in 2004. The fragrance was developed by perfumer Isabelle Doyen, and includes notes of vanilla, angelica, almond, benzoin, gaiac wood and white musk.
Back in 2004, the news that Annick Goutal would launch an almond-vanilla perfume created something of a frenzy on the fragrance board at MakeupAlley, where the Annick Goutal line is held in great esteem and where there are a considerable number of hardcore vanilla-gourmand fans. When Vanille Exquise finally launched, there was an almost palpable sense of disappointment, and many of those who ordered bottles unsniffed put them up for swap in short order. Mind you, anyone who frequents a fragrance forum can tell you that this period of let down follows any much-hyped release (it is happening now over the Chanel Les Exclusifs).
Vanille Exquise disappointed, I think, precisely because it wasn't the gourmand many were hoping for. The benzoin is strong from the outset, giving this a resinous, incense-y edge vaguely reminiscent of Vanille Tonka by Parfums de Nicolaï. The almond, and for that matter, the vanilla, heat up slowly on skin, and never get quite strong or sweet enough to be classified as foody. The dry down has a light dusting of powder, giving it a velvety finish and something of a comfort-scent appeal. It is more sweet than dry, but the resinous notes, along with dark undertones from the gaiac wood, add a warm, smoky trail that separates Vanille Exquise from the simpler vanilla-musk entries at your local drugstore.
I am not a huge vanilla fan in general, but there are cold, grey days when a bit of vanilla is just what you need. On that sort of day, Vanille Exquise is perfect. Alternatives in the "sophisticated vanilla" category include the Vanille Tonka mentioned above or L'Artisan Vanilia; if you're looking for something more foody, i Profumi di Firenze Vaniglia del Madagascar smells like vanilla cake without being nauseatingly sweet.
Annick Goutal Vanille Exquise is available in 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette. I believe there was a limited edition parfum version, but I cannot find it online so either I am mistaken, or it is sold out. For buying information, see the listing for Annick Goutal under Perfume Houses.
I was one of the disappointed
It is not that it isn't sweet and gourmand enough for me, it is that it has a very harsh, nose-burning note, which I can't identify but which I dislike. My favorite vanilla right now is Santa Maria Novella's. It also has a certain dryness to it that makes more sophisticated than its more foody “colleagues”.
I agree, it definitely lacks that typical creamy quality of more gourmand vanillas. I am not a big vanilla fan, but VE is perhaps one of my favourites.
I'm with Colombina on this one. There is a note in VE which overcomes the other notes and it's very harsh. I cannot put a finger on it as to what it is. So, yes I was disappointed with VE and passed it along to my mother who wears it occasionally.
My favorite vanilla frags are L by Lolita Lempicka and Vanille Givree des Antilles by La Maison de la Vanille.
M, I assume though that you were not among those who bought it unsniffed. I don't find it harsh or burning at all (although it is certainly smoky) — I reserve that description for SL Un Bois Vanille. But I can see why someone would find it so, it is definitely smoky and the gaiac
has that pungent edge. I have not tried the SMN.
It is perfect for the absolutely dreary day we are having here today, V.
Miraculously, I haven't bought it unsniffed
Again, guessing it is the gaiac, but who knows? Glad your mom is getting some use out of it
LOL at Butter Flavored Crisco! Not getting anything like that at all, thankfully, and of course, to each her own
I had very limited expectations. I'm not much of a vanilla fan and only occasionally like almond scents. I loved Vanille Exquise.
Smoky, woodsy and a rum note on my skin as a bonus point. Happy sigh. It's a fav fireplace day scent.
Actually, I like this one, albeit on my sister, but I like it nonetheless. Ha, ha!
On her it smells very fresh, like vanilla scented clouds wafting through the clear spring sky, if that makes any sense. She layers it with AG's honeysuckle fragrance, and it smells divine.
Hugs!
I didn't expect to like it at all…maybe that is the trick with VE. “Fireplace day scent' is a perfect description.
R, thought I had heard that before, and sure enough, you said the same in a comment almost 2 years ago on Chevrefeuille. And I still haven't tried it! Will do so tomorrow
I can't do vanilla at all so I won't get near this one – not even on the coldest and greyest of days.
I am so enjoying those threads on MUA about the Chanels! I witnessed the initial frenzy, then sat back and waited. The 'disappointed' posts came much sooner than I expected. LOL!
Showing up late to tell you how much I appreciate the fact that you blog on AG, which for whatever reason (have I whined about this over here before?) seems not to get the attention think it deserves. Not niche enough? Not odd enough? I dunno. I would be very, very sad if the AGs died off, several of my oldest favorites are from the line. (Uh, not this one, though…. ;-P )
Almost nobody is even talking about them now! The fragrance cos. have to stop this launch frenzy, seriously, or that will be it: your new scent gets attention for 1 week, tops.
They are in a kind of odd place between niche & mainstream. I never think of them as niche, personally, but it is a great line. Keep meaning to do an AG week, but not going to happen this week
Vanille Exquise smells really lovely on my mom! I She is a nurse and can only wear light fragrances to work. I layer it under other fragrances like Chevrefueille. Have you guys tried layering anything else of Annick goutal? My best friend and I layered Neroli under eau du ciel, and it smells heavenly!
I've tried VE layered w/ lots of other scents, but other than that, haven't experimented too much. The new Les Orientalistes trio, if I owned them!, would be great for layering.