Salvatore Ferragamo's new Emozione is geared towards older women — older, of course, in the relative sense, since fragrances geared towards really older women are as rare as unicorns. Anyway, it's geared towards older women, and you'd know this even if Women's Wear Daily hadn't said so.1 Exhibit A is the model, Malgosia Bela, who at the ripe old age of 37 is a good 10 years older than Bianca Balti was when she introduced the brand's 2012 pillar, Signorina. Balti turned on her pink radio, danced around on the bed in a pink dress and talked on her pink telephone before sitting demurely in a chair to wait for her man to arrive; Bela's ad is slower and calmer, and according to the model is "about laughter and tears and everything that is important in life" — "I can be seen in reflections of cities", she says to the camera. There's no pink (it's shot in black and white) and no man, or at least no man we can see.
Exhibit B, the juice. Signorina smelled about right for its target market, 18 to 25.
....Signorina is a cheerful and undemanding fruity thing with a slightly gourmand base. It isn't as candied as [Vera Wang] Princess Night, and it's almost certainly geared a wee bit older than that; it isn't as abstract or loud as the [Swarovski] Aura, and it's almost certainly geared a wee bit younger than that.
Emozione, on the other hand, reminded me right away of two other recent "mature" fragrances: Lancôme La Vie Est Belle (fronted by Julia Roberts, who I believe was 45 or so when it launched) and Giorgio Armani Sì (Cate Blanchett; maybe 43). Emozione starts quieter than either of those, and indeed might be the next generation of the style. The soft, just-slightly peachy opening is a good fit with the feel of the advertising, and within minutes it takes on a pale, creamy-gauzy veil of cosmetic powder. The powder smooths over the likewise quiet florals, so that nothing really stands out although you might catch a brief whiff of rose (the notes for the floral woody chypre: bergamot, iris, peach, peony, rose, heliotrope, patchouli, suede and white musk). I don't really make out heliotrope, but it does get creamier and more vanillic on the dry down. It gets darker, too, but not by much — the patchouli and suede are kept on a tight leash, as is the sugar, but a cleanish woody musk lingers for hours.
Verdict: Quite nicely done by perfumer Alberto Morillas. It's the first Ferragamo fragrance I have smelled that I would wear,2 and while I don't particularly want any, I'm impressed: it's as undemanding as Signorina, but manages to live up to the 'modern, sophisticated and elegant' billing. I doubt it will be a perfumista darling, but it's worth a try if you need a pretty but discreet no-brainer powder scent in your collection.3 There's no reason it shouldn't sell but who knows if it will, and clearly Ferragamo did not pull out all the stops on the star power, as did Lancôme and Armani.
Salvatore Ferragamo Emozione is available in 30 (€58), 50 ($95) and 90 ($120) ml Eau de Parfum.
1. But they did say so, and they also said they did not anticipate any overlap between the customers for Emozione and the customers for Signorina. Women's Wear Daily, 9/20/2014.
2. Although there are many I have not smelled, including all of the Tuscan Soul / Tuscan Scent flankers.
3. If you don't need something quite so up to date, there are of course many (slightly) older variations on the 'discreet no-brainer powder scent' theme, like Love, Chloé or Balenciaga Paris or Lolita Lempicka L'Eau en Blanc, etc and etc.