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Jean Paul Gaultier Ma Dame ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 25 August 2008 59 Comments

Jean Paul Gaultier Ma Dame fragrance, bottles & advert

Ma Dame is the latest fragrance from Jean Paul Gaultier. The fresh floral fragrance...

...aims to celebrate today’s emancipated woman, as personified by muse [Agyness] Deyn, whose androgynous blonde crop and general all-round look embodies what Gaultier calls “style garçonne”.

True to the Gaultier ethos, Ma Dame is being positioned as a fragrance for edgy rule-breakers, who overturn established codes and reinvent fashion, unfettered by social and aesthetic taboos. (via moodieport)

Sound like fun? The commercial certainly is (if you missed it, see it here), and I'd say the fragrance, while not what you might expect from the ad copy, qualifies as well.

Ma Dame was developed by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, who has been responsible for most of the Jean Paul Gaultier fragrance line (Le Mâle, Fragile, Gaultier2, Fleur du Mâle, Monsieur Eau du Matin). I rather expected that Ma Dame might play with gender expectations, but there's nothing even slightly androgynous about it; instead, as you might deduce from the bottle design, the scent plays on the over-the-top hyper-femininity espoused by Gaultier's fashions and brilliantly translated into fragrance by Jacques Cavallier's Classique.

Ma Dame opens fizzy and bright and fruity-citrusy, it is sweet but not candied, and has the perfect amount of peppery kick to match the images of Agyness Deyn chopping off her excess hair and clothing in the TV spot (see link above). Happily (for me, anyway), there is nothing overtly "fresh" about it. The heart is a powdery floral woods, quieter than the opening but still vibrant and fruity. The notes (acidic orange, velvet rose, grenadine, musk and cedar) don't much matter; it has that hyper-synthetic, nothing-to-do-with-nature feel that characterizes both the Gaultier fragrance line and a good portion of the work of Francis Kurkdjian — I am thinking not only of his work for Gaultier, but also of scents like Lanvin Rumeur and Ungaro by Ungaro. After an hour or so, Ma Dame is softer still, and more about the creamy-powdery woods; there is an obvious (even without the bottle design) nod to Classique, and it could also be a livelier (and pinker) version of Kenzo Amour's rice pudding.

I can't really say I love Ma Dame. It isn't my sort of thing. Still, I've enjoyed wearing it — spraying it on makes me smile, and the bottle very nearly makes me laugh out loud. It isn't at all the "edgy rule-breaker" fragrance it could have been, but at least today's emancipated woman has a sense of humor, I suppose? I should note that there have been very mixed reports on the fragrance board at MakeupAlley. As always, try before you buy.

Jean Paul Gaultier Ma Dame is available in 30, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Toilette and in matching body products; it's exclusive to Macy's for the moment.

Possibly of interest

Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male Le Parfum~ new fragrance
Jean Paul Gaultier So Scandal ~ new perfume
Jean Paul Gaultier Le Beau & La Belle ~ new fragrances

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: francis kurkdjian, jean paul gaultier

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59 Comments

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  1. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 1:27 pm

    I tried it on the weekend here in Canada and I liked it! The bottle is cute with it's dayglo shade that's pretty funky and should appeal to the younger set. The fragrance is really different in the way that Lolita Lempicka is. I suppose the eccentric part of me appreciates this Gaultier offering that is not so strong as to be obnoxious.

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  2. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 1:36 pm

    I love the rice pudding in Kenzo Amour but can't wear the darn thing (or the Amour Holi), something in it gives me a headache, but this sounds very interesting to try.
    Have to say I love that JPG also offers 30 ml & travel sizes so readily. So nice to be able to have a bottle I have shot of actually using up that's reasonably portable when I travel. Its impossible to cart around those MJ splashes & other huge bottles & I'm just not very adept at decanting.

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  3. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 1:37 pm

    It is true it's not so strong, and appreciate that it has some personality despite that. Still think it might be a love it or hate it, which is fine.

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  4. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 1:38 pm

    I'd love to know why Macy's never gets the 30 ml bottles though — is that a Macy's decision or the brand's? Oh well, it will be somewhere, eventually.

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  5. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 1:47 pm

    Could it be because the larger sizes are an automatic upsale?

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  6. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 1:49 pm

    I LOVE the commercial! It has a fun, 80's feel to it (clothes/color). Great energy, color/dimension to the bottle too. I'm not so crazy about the juice, but the ad is wonderful.

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  7. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 1:50 pm

    Could be, but seems crazy — I'm sure Sephora sells more perfume, esp. to young people, because of all the small & travel bottles.

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  8. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 1:53 pm

    I am still waffling on this one. I was really surprised by the notes — I was expecting something gourmandy like vanilla? It reminds me of a cross between Amour and Gaultier 2, maybe.
    My only waffle is I get this *big* dollop of “fresh” that pops in and out. Gag. Like the top of the JLos… I really do not like that smell. Besides that, though, I thought it was darn fun — I kept re-sniffing it on my arm. Good lasting power, too.

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  9. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 2:02 pm

    I hated the juice on paper, but on skin I really think it's fun. But hey, if you like that ad, that's good enough, right? Plenty of other scents to steal your $$$.

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  10. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 2:04 pm

    Oh, gracious, and I thought I had extra “fresh sensors”, LOL! Luckily I'm missing it in Ma Dame.

    I was expecting more “masculine” base notes, I think. There's maybe a touch of dark, but not much, & overall I find it very pink.

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  11. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 2:13 pm

    I keep reading “emancipated” as “emaciated.” Hmmm.

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  12. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 2:28 pm

    Yep, that too ;-)

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  13. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 4:25 pm

    '…what Gaultier calls “style garçonne”.' JFYI, Gaultier did not coin that expression: it dates from the 1920s.

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  14. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 4:43 pm

    Great review R, & spot-on! I was very pleased to get back from my lunch hour, where I tested Ma Dame at Macy's, to find my daily shot of NST & your very apt description…
    I don't get 'fresh' either, but I do get intense, metallic powder that evolves to an almondy marzipan. There's nothing androgynous about Ma Dame to me, it definitely evokes femininity as the drydown continues with a floral finish ( is that the velvet rose?). I agree with March that it is reminiscent of Gaultier 2, astute observation! Macy's was giving out pink swansdown powderpuffs saturated with Ma Dame, & my officemate, who favors shared & men's scents, asked me to please remove it from our space. So the pink Ma Dame puff is now scenting the ladies restroom…

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  15. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 4:49 pm

    Everything old is new again, J :-)

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  16. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 5:06 pm

    Margins are better on the small bottles though.

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  17. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 5:06 pm

    I was wearing the entire JPG fragrance line earlier today — your officemate would have shot me on sight (sniff?) :-)

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  18. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 5:19 pm

    Yeah, you'd think!

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  19. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 5:27 pm

    Yeah! A new Jean Paul Gaultier perfume! I remember my Classique days, when I actually fell in love with the pure parfum of this. I never cared for the summer fragrance too much, it lost it's rich take on the scent. I also love Fragile, and the bottle design rocks!! I am so excited, I know JPG will make a big and bold statement with this new one!!!

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  20. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 10:23 pm

    True. LOL!

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  21. Anonymous says:
    25 August 2008 at 11:41 pm

    30 ml sizes are exclusive to Sephora.

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  22. Anonymous says:
    26 August 2008 at 7:14 am

    I've been waiting for this to arrive in stores here (why the hell hasn't it??) as I am very very curious about it. Great to read your review – intrigued by the rice note which I really enjoy.

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  23. Anonymous says:
    26 August 2008 at 8:17 am

    Hope Ma Dama will suit you then…but have seen reports from Classique fans that did NOT like Ma Dame. I think it's very much a modern version.

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  24. Anonymous says:
    26 August 2008 at 8:18 am

    I think it's only very recently in Macys.

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  25. Anonymous says:
    26 August 2008 at 8:49 am

    all Gaultier scents gave me strong headaches until now, so the Kenzo (which I'd loved to have because of the bottle since I LOVE poppies), so I guess this time it will be the same.

    I get really sick when I smell it, not only the headache. Wonder how/why scents can provoke such a strong reaction. Same with TM Angel.

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  26. Anonymous says:
    26 August 2008 at 10:20 am

    The new perfume is nice, but I think it's less provocating than the others , Classic, Le Male and gaultier II.

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  27. Anonymous says:
    26 August 2008 at 10:38 am

    That's a shame!

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  28. Anonymous says:
    26 August 2008 at 10:39 am

    I don't know that I've found any of the line truly provocative if you take away the presentation (the ad copy, the packaging, etc). Maybe Le Male, a bit.

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  29. Anonymous says:
    26 August 2008 at 12:53 pm

    This sounds wonderful really… I can't wait to give it a sniff.

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  30. Anonymous says:
    26 August 2008 at 3:47 pm

    Hope you'll love it!

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  31. Anonymous says:
    26 August 2008 at 4:54 pm

    I just tried the juice, very fizzy/fun in the opening and very sweet one hour in. It'd be interesting to smell after 4 hours…. It's a 'not buy' for me. I'm on buying restriction anyway!

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  32. Anonymous says:
    27 August 2008 at 9:22 am

    Ouch, on buying restriction for how long? Just as well you didn't adore Ma Dame, I guess!

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  33. Anonymous says:
    27 August 2008 at 5:04 pm

    Nope, I didn't adore it, thank goodness! :)

    I'm on restriction until I go through a couple of bottles, especially after reading Kevin' article. According to his formula I've got juice for 8-9 years!

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  34. Anonymous says:
    27 August 2008 at 6:59 pm

    I saw this at Macy's today but no samples yet. I couldn't try it on because I had just coated myself in Lady Vengeance, but the guy soaked a card and wrapped it in plastic so I could have a good whiff. It is one of those smells that causes an involuntary upswing of my lips, and if it makes me happy on the card I will definitely get a sample. It's not my normal style – I'm kind of sick of these happy pink things – but I think this will be worth at least a brief fling. Plus the bottle is really cute.

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  35. Anonymous says:
    27 August 2008 at 9:17 pm

    LOL — and I refuse to figure out how many years I've got covered!

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  36. Anonymous says:
    27 August 2008 at 9:18 pm

    Not my normal style either, but it's so much better than other things of the same ilk. Francis Kurkdjian knows what he's doing :-)

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  37. Anonymous says:
    27 August 2008 at 9:30 pm

    I decided I have a couple years covered just with my samples. Not stopping anytime soon, though!

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  38. Anonymous says:
    28 August 2008 at 9:54 am

    Whew, I could probably live on the samples the rest of my life, LOL…

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  39. Anonymous says:
    2 September 2008 at 11:09 pm

    There was a CK Summer that came out, I think, 2 years ago in a green, yellow, and red color scheme (as opposed to the blue version that came out this summer). It was full-on citrus with a hint of woods — at least to my admittedly inexperienced nose — and like all the CK Summers, it was sold as a unisex.
    MaDame, to me, smells a lot like that but slightly sweeter. And just like I bought the CK Summer, I'd probably wear MaDame. But I am a guy who doesn't keep his feminine force under lock and key. :-)

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  40. Anonymous says:
    3 September 2008 at 8:25 am

    I've missed most of the CK Summers, but I know some of them were very well done. Will have to see if I can still find a sample of that one!

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  41. Anonymous says:
    4 September 2008 at 12:09 am

    Hi! :) this is my first comment. I've been a lurker for a bit. I just had to comment on the fact that I also kept seeing the word “emaciated”. at the beginning. I'm so glad I wasn't the only one seeing that… Hehe.

    Isn't that the same model for Burberry's The Beat? When I saw that commercial – I commented to a friend the poor girl needed food.

    Anyways, rambling. ;) I haven't tried this JPG scent yet – I've gone overboard with buying perfumes lately & I'm forcing myself to wait. Iim curious enough to try it out, though!

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  42. Anonymous says:
    4 September 2008 at 10:18 am

    Hi and welcome!

    Yes, it's the same model — and the ads are in a very similar style, IMHO. Ah well.

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  43. Anonymous says:
    4 September 2008 at 7:25 pm

    Wow talk about fizzy and acidic. It smells overwhelmingly synthetic to me, unfortunately. There's just something very artificial about it to my nose. Cool bottle though.

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  44. Anonymous says:
    5 September 2008 at 8:10 am

    Would agree — entirely artificial — but do think that's the intended style.

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  45. Anonymous says:
    23 September 2008 at 11:25 am

    I've been there, tried that, and forgot it immediately… nice, meaningless. But nice bottle. Ha – as if this would help!

    Next to it, 1881 Cerutti on sale. Lesser money, nicer scent. If I wille ever fall for commercial perfumes, then only if they are affordable or let's say reasonable in price!

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  46. Anonymous says:
    23 September 2008 at 2:35 pm

    A nicer scent for less money is always a good thing :-)

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  47. Anonymous says:
    16 November 2008 at 9:45 pm

    I just bought it tonight and am wearing it now and I agree it does have a powdery floral scent which I quite enjoy. It is somewhat like Chanel No. 22 which also is a powdery scent and my personal fav Chanel scent. I definitely recommend it and I enjoy JP's scents immensely. I have Classique as well and not only do I love it but my bf finds it sexy on me LOL!

    Jenny

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  48. Anonymous says:
    17 November 2008 at 1:28 pm

    Just read today that this one is doing very well in France — in the top 10.

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  49. Anonymous says:
    11 January 2009 at 3:41 pm

    Well, I was given a sample of this from Perfume Douglas, and was offered another sample of it the following day when I went back for nail polish. So, 10 minutes ago, I tried the sample. CANNOT wait another minute to scrub it off. This is about the same reaction I had with the G2. It is overpowering on me, and smells of cheap shampoo. Ugh, running to the bathroom now to do some scrubbing!

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  50. Anonymous says:
    12 January 2009 at 9:01 am

    Unscented deodorant works well too — although I assume by now it's long gone :-)

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  51. Anonymous says:
    12 January 2009 at 3:57 pm

    oh hey, good idea, I will try this next time I cannot get an unwanted smell off!

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  52. Tama says:
    26 March 2009 at 1:22 pm

    I finally finally got my sample of this and tried it last night – I was very surprised by it. I had forgotten that you said it was creamy-powdery and I very much enjoyed that aspect. It is definitely synthetic! I am looking forward to wearing it again, ad I think I am going to enjoy it for summery days when I am feeling non-earthy. Also looking forward to the new version.

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    • Robin says:
      26 March 2009 at 3:13 pm

      Yep — it’s definitely not for earthy days! I want to try the Eau Fraiche too, but it wasn’t at Sephora last weekend.

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  53. obsernity says:
    22 June 2009 at 7:18 pm

    I bought this last week for my best friend’s brithday today. It sounds like a nice filler in anyone’s collection. Agnes is quite the boyish version of Charlize Theron, methinks.

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    • Robin says:
      23 June 2009 at 11:07 am

      Hope she will like it!

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  54. englishrose says:
    17 July 2009 at 2:40 pm

    I’m not sure if you get Ma Dame the summer version over in the US, but if you do, or come over to the UK – don’t buy or try!! It’s absolutely horrific – smells exactly like harsh cat urine.

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    • Robin says:
      17 July 2009 at 2:47 pm

      Thanks for the warning :-)

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  55. alligins says:
    31 August 2010 at 11:07 am

    I wear this all the time. I used to wear classique back in the day, and now, every time I I think i can go back , it doesn’t quite work. It took me a bit of tries before I bought it, but happy that i gave it a chance finally. Glad too, that many women didn’t give it a chance, or there would be too much of it. It would be cool to have a very nice body cream as opposed to a lotion, though I guess creams don’t suit the intended market. It’s just that it takes a long time for the scent to settle properly, which is likely what deters many consumers. Guys and gals alike find that it smells great. ;) I’m not talking about the eau fraiche. Never tried it., but hope this one doesn’t disappear. It’s great to find something both men and women like, and i’m still kind of sad about Sensi going away.

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    • Robin says:
      31 August 2010 at 5:34 pm

      I hope it doesn’t disappear too — that’s always the risk if lots of people don’t wear it.

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