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Browsing by tag: lily

Serge Lutens La Vierge de Fer ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 7 October 2013 59 Comments

Oriental Lily

Serge Lutens La Vierge de Fer is proof that to know what something smells like, the perfume’s name, description, and marketing materials often aren’t enough. Serge Lutens’s references to Les Demoiselles d’Avignon, medieval torture devices, and the “essential nature” of lilies probably won’t help you pin down La Vierge de Fer’s nature. Years of sampling such Lutens favorites as Ambre Sultan and Chergui aren’t going to get you very far, either.

I’m going to gin up a new Vierge de Fer marketing campaign to give you a better idea of what the fragrance actually smells like. First, let’s rename it. Vierge de Fer is too harsh and enigmatic for such a gentle, romantic perfume. I know Serge would kill me, but let’s twist the title a bit and call the fragrance Maiden’s Dream. (I hear the groans already.)

For our marketing campaign, we’ll toss out the cubist painting of prostitutes and substitute a summer-dappled Berthe Morisot. I don’t want to make this too “July afternoon,” because the fragrance does carry a hint of metal and musk…

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Cartier Baiser Vole Eau de Toilette and Extrait de Parfum ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 25 March 2013 43 Comments

Cartier Baiser Volé Eau de Toilette

I know, I know. Now Smell This already posted a thorough review of Cartier Baiser Volé. But that was for the Eau de Parfum. Baiser Volé is one of the few perfumes that really explores the fragrance’s idea through its other formulations. While a review of the Eau de Parfum gives you an idea of Baiser Volé’s theme — lilies in the style of Carole Lombard’s boudoir, complete with silver hairbrush and face powder — the Eau de Toilette and Extrait de Parfum aren’t simply different concentrations. Instead, they take the Eau de Parfum’s “main tune” and orchestrate it differently.

Cartier house perfume Mathilde Laurent created Baiser Volé in each of its forms. Cartier is vague about the fragrance’s notes, spouting pap about how the fragrance embraces each aspect of the lily: stem, petals, and root. Besides lily, I get hints of neroli, powder, jasmine, and musk.

Baiser Volé Eau de Parfum is the most sober form of the fragrance. It shows Baiser Volé’s powdery glamour of deconstructed lilies in a way that makes me long for my own dressing room, satin coverlet, and stack of 1930s movies. It’s beautiful, for sure. But it’s also humorless…

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Frederic Malle Lys Mediterranee ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 4 January 2013 59 Comments

lily

I can never answer the question, “What is your favorite perfume?” However, if someone asked me to name my favorite contemporary fragrance house, I’d probably name Frédéric Malle’s Editions de Parfums. After all, this company is responsible for two of my favorite perfumes, Lipstick Rose and Iris Poudre, as well as several others that I wear on a regular basis, including L’Eau d’Hiver, En Passant — and Lys Méditerranée.

Lys Méditerranée is a “tribute” to the lily, designed to evoke “a scorching summer evening as the Mediterranean sea spray mingles with the spicy scent of ginger lilies.” It was developed by perfumer Edouard Fléchier and was released in 2000; its notes include ginger lily, lily of the valley, angelica root, orange flower, water lily, salicylates, ambrette seeds, musk and vanilla. The Frédéric Malle website describes Lys Méditerranée as “radiant,” and reviewers have often used the same adjective, for good reason…

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Guerlain Lys Soleia ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 23 June 2012 35 Comments

lily

I have something of a love-hate relationship with the Aqua Allegoria range from Guerlain. To recap for those who aren’t familiar with them, the Aqua Allegoria series was introduced in 1999 as a youth-oriented, reasonably-priced line aimed at bringing younger consumers into the Guerlain fold. In the early years, the fragrances were done in a naturalistic style, usually highlighting one or two notes, but more recent outings have strayed from those conventions. They’re generally launched as limited editions, then if they do well, they get added to the regular line. For some years, they’ve done two new Aqua Allegoria fragrances a year, but since 2010, they’ve only put one of the two into widespread distribution.1

There’s no point in looking for the next Shalimar among the Aqua Allegorias, but some of them have been highly enjoyable fragrances, and a few of them of them are staples in my summer fragrance wardrobe.2 The last few years, though — since Thierry Wasser took over as Guerlain’s house perfumer — they’ve been concentrating on a “young, fresh and dewy” style, not altogether unlike that of Guerlain Idylle. Sometimes that works, sometimes the output strikes me as forgettable and/or insipid.

This year’s widely distributed Aqua Allegoria is Lys Soleia…

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Michael Kors Suede & Keiko Mecheri Soussanne ~ perfume reviews

Posted by Robin on 15 May 2012 18 Comments

Tuberoselily

Today, brief reviews of two white florals: Michael Kors Suede and Keiko Mecheri Soussanne.

Michael Kors Suede

It often puzzles me why perfume brands choose the names they do. At the very least, they seem to assume that consumers are paying very close attention — an assumption that seems entirely unwarranted given the number of new fragrance releases every year. So, if you assumed, reasonably enough, that the new Suede by Michael Kors was a soft leather fragrance, sorry, you were quite off base. If you knew enough to recognize the bottle design (see below), and figured based on the bottle that it was a flanker to the brand’s signature fragrance from 2000, Michael by Michael Kors, you were closer to the mark, and if you guessed further that it was a softer, lighter, more summery version, with no relationship to “suede” other than being soft, ding ding ding: you win the prize…

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