We've had the usual wave of "dark" and "noir" flankers this fall, and here's another one: Burberry's My Burberry Black, a flanker to My Burberry (2014). Like the original My Burberry, My Burberry Black was developed by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian. It's described as "an intense and sensual reinterpretation...a London garden amidst a gathering storm; heavy rain contrasting with the warm and captivating flora," and its notes include jasmine, candied rose, peach nectar, amber and patchouli.
I tried My Burberry when it was released and it didn't make much of an impression on me. I just revisited it and it still seems to me like an inoffensive sweet pea perfume, easy to wear to work or brunch. My first impression of My Burberry Black, on the other hand, is that it's best reserved for evening wear: I applied two sprays at Sephora just before getting on the subway, and then I couldn't help noticing the stricken facial expression of the passenger seated next to me. It comes on strong, with a punch of honeyed, musky peach, almost like peach liqueur, and it has noticeable sillage. Be warned!
In repeated wearings (in the privacy of my home!), I was able to get safely past that fruit-bomb of an opening to assess the rest of the fragrance. I'm intrigued by something that happens in the heart of My Burberry Black: the jasmine note is more prickly and animalic than I would have expected. This must be My Burberry Black's naughty side. However, that white floral note ends up submerged in a fresh wave of peach juice and vanilla-spice amber and synthetic patchouli, and the dry down turns out to be a little bland. This scent does have good staying power, though — as we might expect from a "Parfum." (Is it really a pure perfume extrait? Unclear.)
My Burberry Black isn't my style, but I can see how it will appeal to the younger demographic that Burberry has been able to attract over the past fifteen years or so. (Remember when Burberry was known primarily for making raincoats and plaid scarves for middle-aged businessmen who commuted from Connecticut to New York? I do.) Overall, I prefer Kurkdjian's work for his namesake house, but My Burberry Black is probably just what Christopher Bailey requested for his own brand, and on those terms it's well-done.
Also, on a somewhat unrelated note: when I watched the commercial for Burberry Black, my gut reaction was, "Cousin Rose! Put your clothes back on!!" Just more proof that I'm not the target audience, I suppose.
Burberry My Burberry Black is $72 for 30 ml, $95 for 50 ml, and $125 for 90 ml Parfum. The 7.5 ml rollerball is $29.
I have a sample of this, and also find that the opening is just too much for the people around me! I like it, but once the sample is gone I’ll move on!
Love your reviews!!
Hah — thanks, Jada. Glad to know it’s not just me.
Will have to give this a sniff. It sounds like it would overwhelm the hubby, but I’m always curious.
Why not, right?
I’m so glad to see this reviewed. I went back and forth on this one since it came out, mostly because i kept thinking it wasn’t as dark as I wanted it to be. A couple of weeks ago, I realized that the beautiful scent coming from my jacket sleeve was My Burberry Black, so I caved and bought it.
I love when that happens!
And no, most perfume obsessives won’t find it particularly “dark,” but that’s par for the course when it comes to mainstream perfumes.
I like the notes and overwhelming my macho co workers is a sport I quite enjoy, so will have to give this a try.
The sport of aggressive perfume-wearing! LOL!
Yes! We need a uniform.
Always a joy to read your reviews, Jessica.
I’m willing to give this one a sniff just because I’m a huge fan of Francis Kurkdjian. I like big, bold scents, so this might be right up my alley.
I really admire FK’s work, too — I have a few loves in his Maison FK house. His work for large, mainstream brands is different (of course — different audience, different demands, different budget!), but still smarter and better than most stuff you smell at Sephora.
Peach is a hard one for me. Love the real thing but the flavors and smells usually attributed to it are a sham. I don’t mind this style at all, with a heavy opening and juicy notes, but never enough to buy. Better a boring tearose in my book!
This is definitely a contemporary fragrance, which means in part that the peach doesn’t smell like real peaches, etc. — you guessed correctly. So, maybe not your thing — but there’s nothing wrong with a boring tearose in my book, either!!
I’ll certainly give this one a try – I’m cautious but curious about the peach – but as so often with releases like this, the stuff associated with the perfume interest me than the perfume. The bottle, the umbrella (want!), the music for the ad (tho I prefer the Nina Simone version). Thanks for the review.
I prefer the Nina Simone version of EVERYTHING!
And the umbrella is surprisingly chic.
I’m wary of those notes, too. Tresor for the 21st century?
Ooh, interesting observation. It doesn’t have that powdery feeling… but although it doesn’t *smell* like Tresor, it does have a similar peach/floral/amber idea behind it. Hm!
My Burberry Black. Unfortunately, this DECEIVINGLY PLEASANT scent has caused a horrible black erosion spot around its base on my expensive vanity table. The bottle wasn’t damaged and didn’t fall, it appears the liquid perspired through the black ribbon and around the bottle and got on the wooden surface. I had noticed days before the incident that it left a small film of liquid on another wooden surface, but I wasn’t worried: I could wipe it and it left no mark; I just thought it was a bad purchase – it’d evaporate faster due to its defective design. But on the 2nd wooden surface it left the horrible black mark that eroded the lacquer around the edge of the rectangular base of the bottle… it’s black like burnt. The company has been claiming “to investigate” since months ago — but no one came to check the table and find out exactly what ingredients reacted with each other in this negative way. Such an investigation would help protect people’s health, I told them — some reactions are insidious, over time. I am concerned for my health after seeing that horrendous reaction I’ve never seen with any cosmetic products. As their subdued “investigation” presumably continues without checking the actual damage… I am posting my review: this may be a pleasant scent, but there is a hidden ingredient in it that caused an atypically deep black mark on my piece of furniture. Is this product safe for our bodies in the long run?
Tried it yesterday and I’m quite smitten, you don’t often encounter a fragrance that sultry and potent but not syrupy sweet/fruitchouly etc. Will test it again but it seems surprisingly good!