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Browsing by date: 2011

Perfume: best of 2011

Posted by Robin on 30 December 2011 159 Comments

I thought 2011 was a really great year for mainstream perfume, maybe not so hot on the niche side. Way too much new product has become the norm and hardly seems worth mentioning, but in 2011, just keeping track of all the new niche brands (is there a private citizen left in all of Italy without their own niche line?) was a struggle. As I said last year, I have given up on smelling everything that matters. I smell what I can and try not to worry about the rest. So once again, to all of my picks below, add “of what I managed to smell”.

My choices for the year are just below. Scroll down to see what Angela, Erin, Jessica and Kevin thought was noteworthy in 2011, or click over to Bois de Jasmin, Grain de Musc, Perfume Posse or Perfume Smellin’ Things. And of course, do add your own thoughts in the comments.

My favorite niche fragrance of 2011: Parfum d’Empire Azemour Les Orangers. Last year, there was an embarrassment of riches in this category and it was hard to narrow down to a favorite or two. This year, if I had not smelled Azemour in December, I really don’t know what I would have picked.

The best mainstream fragrances: On the other hand, it was a very good year for the mainstream prestige category. My favorites turn out to be two from the “upscale sweets” category, Prada Candy and Thierry Mugler Angel Goût du Parfum. Honorable mentions: Bottega Veneta and Cartier Baiser Volé…

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Profumum Eccelso & Dolce Acqua ~ new fragrances

Posted by Robin on 30 December 2011 2 Comments

Profumum Eccelso

Italian niche line Profumum has launched two new fragrances, Eccelso and Dolce Acqua…

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Should auld acquaintance be forgot

Posted by Robin on 30 December 2011 14 Comments

Krystle (Linda Evans) and Blake Carrington (John Forsythe) of the 1980s television classic Dynasty, sharing their bespoke fragrances with the 99%.

Online fragrance shopping

Posted by Robin on 30 December 2011 2 Comments

New at luckyscent: Roca Perfums Lemon Cloud.

New at ulta: Vera Wang Princess Night, Oscar de la Renta Live in Love.

Caron Farnesiana ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 29 December 2011 28 Comments

Caron Farnesiana advertCaron urn

Farnesiana was one of the first modern fragrances inspired by the mimosa flower, that notoriously difficult-to-replicate fluffy yellow bloom. According to Jean-Marie Martin-Hattemberg’s volume on Caron, Farnesiana was created by perfumer Michel Morsetti in 1947; its composition includes notes of mimosa, black currant, bergamot, jasmine, violet, lily of the valley, lilac, vanilla, sandalwood, opopanax, hay, and musk (although the Caron website currently only lists mimosa, sandalwood, and hay). The name “Farnesiana” refers to acacia farnesiana, the botanical name for a particular variety of mimosa; it is also, Caron suggests, evocative of Rome’s grand Farnese Palace.

That juxtaposition of a simple flower and a Renaissance palazzo seems appropriate to me, since I’ve always considered Farnesiana a sophisticated comfort scent, an unusual floral-gourmand (or “fleurmand,” as I like to call this perfume sub-genre). To my nose, Farnesiana begins with a powdery, pollen-like mimosa note and with accords of sun-warmed hay and grass. Oddly enough, this green-tinged phase reminds me of certain fragrances from Santa Maria Novella, like Ginestra (Broom) or Fieno (Hay), that evoke meadow-like landscapes. Farnesiana’s heart opens up to reveal the sweetly resinous opoponax…

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