Humiecki & Graef advertises Eau Radieuse as a “futuristic remake of an Eau de Cologne” that will transport us (mentally, I assume) to “a wondrous place on an unknown planet". I don’t know what’s futuristic or otherworldly about green banana, mandarin peel, lemon, mint, rhubarb, and bamboo sap (all have been Earth-bound for millennia) but the aromas of banana, rhubarb and bamboo should provide an unusual “kick” when incorporated into the venerable Eau de Cologne formula.
Humiecki & Graef was founded by Sebastian Fischenich and Tobias Mueksch, and the company is based in Cologne (Köln), Germany. Fischenich and Mueksch named the company after their maternal grandmothers (using their favorite grandmothers’ maiden names). I can only imagine the family resentments — after all, the paternal grandmothers were omitted! Humiecki & Graef debuted four new fragrances in 2008 — all created by perfumer Christophe Laudamiel: Geste, Eau Radieuse, Multiple Rouge and Askew. (A fifth scent, Skarb, was originally launched in 2007.)
Eau Radieuse starts off with the scent of fresh citrus peel and a vibrant, tart-green aroma that does remind me of unripe bananas. Eau Radieuse’s citrus-green notes are followed almost immediately by a clean, minty-fruit accord (think “mentholated lemon drops”); I also notice a nose-puckering, slightly talc-y fruit note (probably the rhubarb). Eau Radieuse invigorates and “cools”; it’s a fragrance I’d reach for on a hot, steamy summer day. Eau Radieuse’s aromas are strong, not watery, and the fragrance “pulsates” on my skin, changing character many times during a day’s wear: going from ‘wet’ to ‘dry,’ from ‘lemon juice’ to ‘orange peel’ to ‘menthol-fruit’ to ‘green stems’ notes.
Even though I was captivated by Eau Radieuse from the first sniff, in the back of my mind there was a nagging question — “What does this REMIND me of?” Finally, I realized Eau Radieuse reminds me of — men’s sport fragrances. Even if Eau Radieuse is the quirkiest, the most fun and luxurious sport fragrance in existence, it follows the sport fragrance pattern: mentholated citrus (check!), a hint of ‘green’ (check!), tart and fresh (check!), clean and ‘talc-y’ in the dry-down (check!), blue juice (check!). Still, I would buy Eau Radieuse in a second but for the cost: over 200 bucks. Since my personal bottles of fragrance are sidelined as I sample new perfumes five days a week, it’s a waste of money to add a very expensive bottle of perfume to my hibernating collection. (On average, I wear my own perfumes only five times a month!) That being said, I can’t wait to try the other fragrances in this line.
Humiecki & Graef Eau Radieuse is available in 100 ml Eau de Toilette Concentrée (containing 20-25% essential oils); its lasting power is very good. For buying information, see the listing for Humiecki & Graef under Perfume Houses. Do note that the latest quartet of Humiecki & Graef fragrances is not expected to arrive in the United States until later this year; in the meantime, you can find Eau Radieuse at Naked Man in the UK (currently on sale for £87) or at First-in-Fragrance in Germany (149€).
(Aside: Here’s to Fruit! Eau Radieuse and Byredo Pulp are two of my favorite perfumes from 2008.)
Kevin: I'll join you in saying “Here's to fruit.”
H&G are expensive, aren't they? I was quite let down by Skarb, though I found it “unique” (very watery without a hint of sweetness or warmth… just green and vegetal). Curious about this and I love a rhubarb note, but alas, probably another that I'm unlikely to ever add to the sample cart.
Joe: these days a “sample cart” can easily add up to $200 itself! Crazy times….
I think Geste was the strangest but in a good way, and i love the grown up candy fruitiness of multiple rouge. Good review BTW. I am tired of everything smelling like a bertrand duchaufour wannabe. Heres to flowers and fruits!
memechoses: yes, Flowers and Fruits and SPRING!
That sort of ridiculous ad copy — being transported to “a wondrous place on an unknown planet” — is, lamentably, the kind of thing I always fall for. I love the idea of a “futuristic fragrance”!
Ojeda: Eau Radieuse would be a great ambience spray for a spaceship (designed by HOLLYWOOD, NOT NASA!) Cool, sleek.
This sounds really nice. Is it for men or women? I looked at the website and its nicely done. It appears all their fragrances are genderless though.
Steve:yep…it's definitely unisex.
This fragrance sounds like a remake of all those 2006-2007-2008 and so forth CK One Summer flankers to me!
But my question to you Kevin is:
Where do you come up with these funny and obscure brand names to review?
Also have these two clever guys ever heard of “Market Research” before naming their brand “Humiecki & Graef”?!
That name is destined to take off real well globally right? The German language is sooo pretty to start with and only reminds us of all the wonderful and humanitarian things Germany did to improve humanity in the 20th Century…
Can you imagine how it's going to be pronounced in Asia on the other hand?
It's a brand destined for success, I can predict that much…LOL
Eric: the funny thing is, the two H&G guys have worked for some big mainstream designers…and the line has gotten lots of press in Europe (even “Men's Health” in the U.S.! HA!) I think I came across the line while looking up fragrances that contain “banana” notes.
Their name caught my attention because I actually love the German language and I am going to be a German major.
They should change Goethe's name to Jean de Gouthè for when his work his published in other countries.
Elfriede Jelinek can be Élodie Yélènique.
krokodilgena: a friend just sent me three Jelinek novels and I'm looking forward to reading them. And I personally love the sound of German…sung or spoken!
my favorite guilty pleasure band is German but they are determined to be a ~*big American band*~. I was in line for their first NY show and everyone was like “I hope they sing in German!!!” ….and we did get 2 German songs.
For their European 2008 tour, the first concert was in Belgium and when it was mostly English all these fans tried to put together petitions for German songs in their country (Netherlands, Italy, Spain, Portugal), but they still got English songs.
this is really off topic, but I think someone who writes for one of the perfume blogs that I read has mentioned growing up in Virginia, was that you?
ummm to make this comment kind on topic… I actually really don't like the smell of fruit, most of the time. I used my brother's coconut shampoo once and I couldn't stand my hair smelling like coconut. And I prefer coconut over most fruit smells.
krokodilgena: yes, grew up in Virginia…and I love coconut (to eat..AND to annoint myself with)
woww me too, I live in Northern part of the Shenandoah valley area.
I like to eat coconut….
Kevin: I picked up a used copy of Jelinek's “Wonderful, Wonderful Times” a while back and keep meaning to start it… where's your book-club blog at, I'll be the first member and we can “discuss”… lol.
I guess I'm a Germano-phile here also (that and Swedish are the langs I studied), so I guess “Humiecki & Graef” doesn't bother me at all. I don't think they're shooting to be the next “Guess” or whatever in any case.
I;m studying German, Russian and Japanese. I want to learn Czech, Turkish and Greek too (but probably won't…).
but German is my favorite language. I think German grammar is fun and exciting!!! I used to study German grammar in my freetime.
I took French and I did really well French I & II but then everything went downhill in French III so now French sounds like failing grades to me.
Joe: I have that one too! (and “Lust” and “Women As Lovers”)…I'll read “Wonderful” first and surely we'll fit it into a perfume review/discussion sometime? HA!