I have been thinking all week about how much my expectations color my attitudes towards new fragrance releases, and how hard it can be to evaluate perfumes with a completely open mind. Context isn't everything, but it matters; sometimes, it matters a great deal. If Guerlain's recent Angelique Lilas had been released as a pillar fragrance (i.e., as a major release like L'Instant or Insolence), I would have been horrified. If it had been released as part of Guerlain's L'Art et la Matière line (Cuir Beluga, Rose Barbare, Angelique Noire, Bois d'Armenie, Iris Ganache) I would have been more horrified still. As an Aqua Allegoria, well, I still don't love it, but it doesn't upset me. I like the Aqua Allegorias, but I don't expect them to be masterpieces. If they are fun, wearable summer scents, that is enough.
By the same token, if Angelique Lilas had been released by Paris Hilton (what would she have called it?), I'd have been clapping my hands enthusiastically: it would have been so refreshingly different from your usual celebrity fare. Celebrity fragrances are such that even halfway decent attempts to develop something of merit will win my approval.
And imagine if Paris Hilton had released Hermès Elixir des Merveilles. I'd have been so impressed, I'd have dropped over dead. But coming from Hermès, Elixir suffered by comparison to its parent Eau des Merveilles. I liked it well enough, but it was hard to shake the notion that it just wasn't as good as the original, and it seemed wrong somehow from Hermès. By now, we all know to expect a regular stream of flankers laced with the latest gourmand trends, but from Hermès? From Hermès, I expect some level of dignity. I don't want to see Hiris with green apple or Eau d'Orange Verte with pomegranate and lychee, although either would be better than any number of recent flanker fragrances.
And I am still puzzling over Guerilla 1 & 2 from Comme des Garçons. Would I have been more impressed if they had been released by say, Calvin Klein? I think not, but they certainly couldn't live up to the iconoclastic heritage of Comme des Garçons. And for that matter, it is hard to escape the notion that Calvin Klein would have done better by CK IN2U if they had not released all that advance press about "technosexuals" and whatnot. Announcing in advance that you are trying to bottle the essence of a generation seems bound to backfire. CK IN2U Her did not strike me as any better or worse than the zillions of other fruity florals released over the past year, but after all the hype, it was more of a disappointment.
I suppose it would be best to try everything from an unmarked vial and only find out what it was later, but the idea of smelling even a handful of dull fruity florals that way is too boring to contemplate. Your thoughts?
You are absolutely right on the money — look to how we all look forward to the release of the latest Serge Lutens creation. If it wasn't complex, original and somewhat 'difficult' (though I think most of the line is more 'wearable' than some give it credit for) we'd be devestated.
The biggest thing I'm dealing these days is disapointment — I adore Dior scents, but Miss Dior Cherie made me want to weep! I believe that one of my all time favorites, Poison, could never be released as a mass-market scent currently. Insolence is another example of a less than stunning release, though I will probably actually wear it sometimes, as I love violets and there's something almost Victorian about the juice's candied sweetness.
Now if Paris came up with something with a jolt of leather and spice, I'd have a whole new respect for the girl — wouldn't that be too delicious?
So true, so true! Just goes to show you that it pays to be something of an underachiever. 😉
Have to agree on Poison, it is hard to see it being released today. And yes, Insolence was less than stunning, but I still like it better than L'Instant, which simply isn't Guerlain-ish at all. Maybe Paris will surprise us all yet 🙂
Exactly — once you have built up an impressive body of work, it is hard to top your past achievements. I don't know if CdG will ever be able to shock again.
Robin, I do agree with you. I bought Lavande Velours, received it in the mail today. I think it's sort of a funny fragrance…it doesn't have the beauty of Anisia Bella, but it's certainly amusing – it's medicinal lavender open and it's candied violet end. If it had been a Guerlain pillar fragrance, I'd be terribly disappointed, but as it's an Aqua Allegoria, I didn't feel like I wasted my 25.00. I sort of spent the money knowing I might not love it, but was curious to try it.
It must be very hard to review with an open mind. Every time I read anything fruity floral, I dismiss it, no matter who makes it. If Paris Hilton had come out with something vaguely original, I'd have been so impressed, as I was with SJP's Lovely. It's not my kind of scent, but it is quite lovely, indeed.
As for Hermes, I find Elixir des Mervilles cloying. I love Hermes, so I just sort of pretend like it doesn't exist. ha. I keep putting off trying Paprika Basil…I love the Hermessences so much, I fear disappointment. I haven't heard anything great about it.
I love reading your stuff, Robin, Thank you. Off the subject, I met Andy Tauer last night at Scent Bar! He's such a lovely man. I bought Reverie au Jardin a few weeks ago, and I love it. No disappointment there!
You know, I'm using this boring little blip in the fragrance world to re-visit and finally get around to smelling lots of classics I probably should have tried FIRST! Such as some of the Guerlains; Nahema (yum), L'H Bleue (yuck) and Vol de Nuit (Wow!) and then I'm enjoying all the ORIGINAL fruity florals like the A.G's and the Molinards, I'm currently fascinated with Nirmala…B.O. or not! It's everything Angel wished it was! I'm sure the fragrance world will get right again. And I thank Tom Ford for that. Bond No. 9 sure isn't helping putting out yet another fruity gourmond! ENOUGH ALREADY! Although I must admit I am looking forward to Gwen's new perfume!?!!!
Great article, so very true, all of it..
“Hiris with green apple or Eau d'Orange Verte with pomegranate and lychee”…gaah! Please don't give them ideas 🙂
Gina, I have to say that I was disappointed in Paprika Brasil, but it wasn't a complete disconnect with the line — that is, it wasn't a silly scent, or something they were trying to market to a different audience than the other Hermessences. I just didn't think it was that great. But some people loved it, so do try it!
And funny about the $25 — because it is also the price that makes the AAs worthwhile to me, but they are actually priced at twice that if you pay full retail. I don't see them as expensive because I know I can get them cheaper, but when you think about it, $50 is a lot for a fun summer scent.
Enjoy your Lavande Velours and Reverie! Wish I could have been at Scent Bar…
Funny that you thank Tom Ford, as I am studiously ignoring his TWELVE ambitiously priced Private Collection scents. We'll see if I can get over my cynicism and give them a real try. So far, not interested although now I'm getting vaguely curious about Velvet Gardenia. Which ones did you love?
(and cracking up at L'H Bleue — yuck)
LOL — if Hermes adds green apple to Hiris, I'm giving up. As things stand, every year that they keep making Hiris, I'm grateful. It can't be a big money maker.
R, this was a great article, and I've reread it a couple of times, pondering (while I waft a couple of Tom Fords, which I've finally gotten around to trying. They are strong!)
Anyway … I'd argue that it's entirely fair to let your expectations color your attitude. Why shouldn't Hermes be held to a higher standard than Paris Hilton? Also, if a fragrance company (presumably) spends a lot of money building its brand, with a line of scents that are harmonious with that outlook, I think it's fair to call them on it if something doesn't seem to fit. (Lookin' at you, L'Instant!) And I could not agree more about Hermes, your point is brilliant. Up there, you identified for me what it was about Elixir that bothered me so much. It wasn't BAD — it was … wrong.
It's funny, your timing on this. Smelling the Tom Fords, there's a certain … Fordiness I'm expecting (so far, we're there, not that I like it excessively.) Think how WEIRD it would have been if they smelled like the new Chanels — or the Hermessences! And there's been a … what … lack of something in some of the recent Serge Lutens. What's the last SL that really blew your skirt up?
Okay, I'll stop. But thanks for raising such an interesting topic.
Interesting question — the last SL that blew my skirt up was probably 2001's Santal Blanc (aka My Beautiful Pencil). But he did Fumerie Turque & Fleurs d'Oranger in 2003, and they're both brilliant even if they don't ruffle my skirt personally. It does seem like he is moving in a different direction lately, doesn't it? But nothing he has done has smelled like he is selling out.
My diatribe on Tom Ford, which you needn't read, LOL — the thing with Tom Ford is he HAS NO CONTEXT. He isn't new, but the “Tom Ford” brand is. I can see that Hermes hires JCE and decides to do an interesting little set of unusual scents (the Hermessences) and I can swallow the idea that Chanel decides hey, we're a luxury brand, and everyone else has these high end, limited distribution lines, we should too, and here, Jacques Polge has a few things he's been working on but decided weren't commercially viable, and we'll add a few more, and voila, Les Exclusifs.
Tom Ford just released his first fragrance last year. His brand has no heritage to build on — your average consumer wouldn't know what “Fordiness” might constitute. I can see if he decides to do 1 or 2 high end things, but 12? They would have to be GENIUS to justify releasing 12 scents at once (especially at those “aspirational” prices). Come to think of it, they'd have to blow Serge Lutens out of the water. Okay, I'll stop too 🙂
Thanks Robin, I will try the Paprika Basil, but I promise not to buy unsniffed. I feel it could be disappointing. I would be very bummed if I'd paid full retail for Lavande Velours, but since I didn't I'm totally ok with it. It's a weird one though. Hey, I wish you could have been at Scent Bar, too…I think you'd have a lot to talk to Andy about with your extensive knowledge. I just sort of chatted…ha. Anyway, it was a great experience, glad I went. I think I'm going to be able to get a bottle of Orris! Oh, and I also met someone who comes to your site, her name is Adrienne, she was so nice.
Talking about no heritage, lets not forget that the “brand with no compromise”, Frederic Malle, is just 7 years old and the house released 9 fragrances in its first year. Who the heck know Frederic Malle before 2000?
I need to go read your Tom Ford screed!!! BTW if you ever decide to try any of them, please consider the Oud Wood. I think you like Oud, right? I am smelling it a full 36 hrs later and it's lovely. Not groundbreaking, but lovely.
Did we kick TF around before on your blog? We did somewhere… I personally find him offputting, I've read a couple of interviews where he sounded vainglorious (fine, whatever) but also sort of misogynistic. If I understand you correctly, I would agree that my sense is that TF did these more as a personal statement about himself as a luxury brand than from a love of fragrance, but heck, where do we draw that line? Also, several of these smell like different parts of Black Orchid, which makes me wonder whether they were leftovers from the development, so to speak. “Fordiness” would be a solid wall of fragrance — an intensity — and a bit of faux-retro. At least they're not light fruity-florals. And the packaging is glorious. Other than that … well, I won't be buying. (I did like Nu a lot, though.)
Re SL: I loved Oranger, and I'm one of the five people on the planet who was wild for Chypre Rouge.
Just one small thing: Fleurs d'Oranger was created in 1995. And, if I remember correctly, it became an Export scent minutes after I bought a bell jar of it in 2002. I was rather put out at the time. LOL!
Fumerie Turque does indeed date from 2003.
I'm not wild about it, but I do love Chypre Rouge too. So that's six people, then. 🙂
Oh, I've just double-checked those facts:
Fleurs d'Oranger: created in 1995
joined the Export range in January 2003
(It 'seemed' like minutes after I bought my bottle in mid-2002.)
LOL — you should not buy *anything* that expensive unsniffed, although I did it with Osmanthe Yunnan just because I wanted to be able to share it with friends. It was my last big fragrance purchase, actually, and I didn't regret it.
That is so, but I would say that as things turned out, the line *was* genius. And notably, Frederic Malle is still cheaper than the Tom Ford Private Collections scents.
J, I am such an idiot — I checked the date under Chris Sheldrake on my perfumer's page and was very surprised to see 2003, I thought it was much older — don't know how that mistake got in there (maybe I did get the export date) but I'm sure it is not the only one 🙂
It is fixed now, thanks!
Robin — where IS your Tom Ford diatribe? I looked and can't find it. I'd love to read it!
M, no, the comment *was* my diatribe, I don't have one anywhere else — just meant, I'm going to ramble on, don't feel compelled to read, LOL! I thought Black Orchid was a great debut release, even if I don't adore it personally.
But c'mon, the man has been in business under his own name a couple years. It seems a little premature to be launching a vanity line. Have not given them a fair smell by any means, but have read elsewhere that several of them smell like discarded mods from Black Orchid, and given how quickly they must have been developed, that isn't surprising. The industry as a whole is just out of control, and this kind of release just adds to consumer perceptions that they're just spewing out product and basing the price solely on the packaging and what they think they can get away with at Bergdorfs.
Was very impressed to read about the Estee Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia scent coming up — haven't had time to post about it yet, but they're planning to do a new series of Private Collection scents, same kind of limited distribution, but only 1 per year. That doesn't mean they'll be better than the TFs, but so refreshing to get 1 a year!!
And will try Oud, certainly. Will try them all eventually. But couldn't work up any enthusiasm for trying to get my hands on them quickly and try all 12. Bah.
M, answered you above — the comment was my diatribe 🙂
Actually, if they kept the lychee subdued or rather balanced, I think it would smell great alongside of the mango peel note in d'Orange Verte. If they use the peel of the lychee, it has this bark-like and sweet and tart smell at the same time. Just might work I tell ya'! The problem with these fruity florals is that it's a synthetic super-overdose of it, like a fresh gob of Bubblicious Bubble Gum.
Using fruits as an undertone, like Mitsouko and yes d'Orange Verte works so much better.
Tom Ford knows the beauty and fragrance business through his experience with Estee Lauder, Gucci, and YSL…he KNOWS it makes money. The grand design, however as I second guess him, is to create and design high end and totally exclusive stuff. The price of Black Orchid is ridiculous! I smell no opulence or quality whatsoever with it to warrant the price, but regardless they decided to jack up the price to keep it exclusive nonetheless. I don't know about you guys, but honestly I don't smell any of Tom Ford's hand in B.O. (pun is definitely intended in this one).
As for his Private Blends, he's making his territory clear…he intends to be a huge House open to the privileged and few, but my question is, does he want to be iconic with his fragrances, like No. 5 eventually?
I suspect, when he develops his scent for men under his own label, I can imagine guys jumping for it like mad dogs! Gucci Pour Homme won my respect for his vision.
R, you're right in thinking 12 exclusive scents are a bit too soon.
TF's Black Orchid smells nothing of the name it smells like a mistake a mishmash of everry type of ingredientn thrown in, fruity, floral, spicy, woody ambery sweet all in one – enought to make you cough! There is no sophistication in this perfume whatsoever no balance. I do not understand what he was thinking of ceratinly no sign of Black Orchid!
I can't argue with that, I just don't like to see Hermes “go trendy” — we get enough of that elsewhere.
iMAV, Gucci Pour Homme won my respect too, as did M7, but I understand neither were big sellers (?) YSL Nu didn't do well either, or so I've heard.
Black Orchid I liked better than you did — I wouldn't wear it, but I thought it was well done. Funny enough, I didn't even pay much attention to the price — you're right, it is expensive for a mainstream scent. Would love to know how it is selling. I certainly haven't smelled it “on the street”, and don't hear much about it. Wouldn't be surprised if it was doing ok but no better, and won't be surprised if Private Blend does about the same.
It definitely goes for bold rather than understated.
Thanks for your thoughts — you've been at this way longer than I have, you're my mentor, so to speak, and I value your opinion. Also, FWIW, I wouldn't have samples of much of what I have if Patty (who buys a lot for her decant biz) didn't generously supply me.
In terms of releases, yes — things are wildly out of control, and getting worse. I malled today, and there are so many new LEs/flankers/summer versions I just gave up! I mean, it's absurd.
Reiterating what we said: smelling my way through the Tom Fords, several seem to be various parts of B.O., possibly considered and discarded. It will be interesting to see how they sell. I am only dabbing them on, and I think some of them, sprayed vigorously, would kill me.
I think that was the big irony with B.O.–it certainly smelled mainstream, but was being sold on the high end luxury shelf.
I believe that Gucci Pour Homme was well received in Europe, enough to warrant a Pour Homme II. Haven't smelled GPH II yet, but seems like they're out to capture a younger market, US blokes included, and M7 seems to still be in production in Europe along with Rive Gauche for that matter.
The US market for men seems to be working on a scent re-education by reintroducing fougeres (i.e Nautica Voyage and Lucky #6) and fresh orientals (Euphoria, Kenneth Cole
RSVP, ckIN2U, Polo Double Black) so there's hope on offerings for men on the horizon. I suspect the reason for the reintroduction of these scent styles back on the market in the US is because of the well received Armani Code.
Back to Mr. Ford…I'll give him this. His scents will never be fun-cutesy-playful. Even Black Orchid, fruity and creamy as it is, definitely wasn't f-c-p. Perhaps Envy came close, but it
didn't cross the line. I don't think he was responsible for Envy Me (or rather, I refuse to believe he was). Youth Dew Amber Nude shocked the hell out of me…Youth Dew went from spicy floral green to boozy masculine with a hint of chocolate! Rather good nonetheless IMO. I admire him for breathing new life and stirring up the waters in this stagnant fruity-floral and fresh aquatic market.
Hard to believe he might be a misogynist, he makes women's clothes after all, creates a bold elegance for women as I see it. But from what I've read about him, he does seem to have a bloated ego and quite possibly an alcoholic.
Hehe, this guy can really create a reaction and eclipse the intended focus on your blog…how does he do that?!
We could knock on all of TF's scents, I'm just sayin the man's got balls. I like that. I find that over and over these days people release “safe” scents here in america. I have smelled at least 20 new releases and thought to myself okay, it's not bad but there's nothing really special about it. And personally after smelling TF's whole line, I didn't really love any of them and hated quite a few… but none of them smell like their on the safe fence. I think he took a risk and for that I give him kudos. It's more than I can say about most other mainstream american house. Now if I could just tape his mouth up and just get to stare at him for a while I would be one happy girl… that man is HOT!!!
M, you are very kind. I'm afraid that my efforts to blog all the new releases leave me rather cranky. I begin to think there are maybe 5-6 brands that actually care about the quality of the final product, the rest are just out to make a buck.
Here is TF in today's UK Times Online, this absolutely cracked me up after all the discussion here:
“Having sold Gucci glamour to anyone with a few hundred quid for a handbag, Ford can afford to turn his back on the mass market. “Luckily, I’ve made enough money, so it is not my primary driver in life any more,” he says. “We’re going for fewer customers, but customers with deeper pockets.” ”
So…money is not important, but as long as you're going to make some more, do be sure it comes from the uber wealthy. Ah.
I will agree with all of that — it is why I respect Black Orchid even though I don't want to wear it.
See, I assumed GPH2 was meant to make the money that GPH1 didn't, but just guessing. I don't know a thing about what sells and what doesn't. And yes, I'll give that to TF: he doesn't do silly little fresh fruity florals.
No worries, R! I don't have those dates in my head either: I just knew that I'd bought my bottle in 2002 so… 🙂
Oh, I *love* that!!! Not, “customers with a more refined aesthetic,” or “customers who want to stand out from the crowd,” or whatever. Just customers with more dough. I will say I feel the man's being true to his vision 😉
I started to write a post called “I'm looking for something fresh” — so named after I heard three separate women ask for that in the mall on my trip. My point was to be that there's nothing “fresh” about the scents they're considering. But I discarded the whole concept on the grounds that writing it was too depressing.
Exactly — the “deep pockets” is just priceless, pardon the very poor pun 🙂