Angelique Lilas is one of Guerlain's two entries for 2007 to the Aqua Allegoria line, the other being Mandarine Basilic. As I said in last year's review of Tutti Kiwi, the Aqua Allegoria fragrances tend to be lighter, younger and simpler in composition than those in the regular line, and they are basically limited editions: if they do well, they hang around, but otherwise they hit the chopping block in short order. Older Aqua Allegorias currently in production, according to the Guerlain website, include Tutti Kiwi, Grosellina, Pivoine Magnifica, Herba Fresca and Pamplelune.
Angelique Lilas is an "aromatic floral" attributed to perfumer Jean Paul Guerlain, and features notes of pink pepper, jasmine, bigarade, angelica, lilac, ylang ylang, cedar and heliotrope. It starts with fruity citrus notes, and the opening is simultaneously sharp, sweet and fresh: it reminds me of orange soda, fruit candy and citrus dryer sheets. Peppered floral notes join in fairly quickly, then it softens dramatically over the next 20 minutes; eventually, it is a rather demure blend of lightly powdered lilac with mild undertones of angelica (angelica fans may be disappointed) over a pale woody-musky base. The ylang keeps it fairly sweet, but it is soft enough that the overall effect is not at all cloying or heavy.
It is a pretty enough spring-time floral, but I was hoping for something with a bit more oomph and a bit less dryer sheet. For my tastes, the last winner from the Aqua Allegoria line was 2004's Anisia Bella, now long discontinued. I have not yet smelled Mandarine Basilic, and am holding out hope that it will be the sparkling summer orange that Orange Magnifica was not.
Guerlain Angelique Lilas is available in 75 ml or 100 ml Eau de Toilette.
Have a favorite Aqua Allegoria? Do comment.