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Browsing by tag: tuberose

Rogue Perfumery Flos Mortis ~ fragrance review

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I have a complicated relationship with tuberose (Agave amica). I love the flowers, and summer is not summer without tuberose blossoming in my garden. My husband loves tuberose, too — in the garden and on his person (he wears Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower). If I had my druthers, a vase full of fresh tuberose flowers would scent my house at all times. Tuberose soap? Yes, please! The “complicated” part of my tuberose relationship is: I don’t like to wear tuberose-rich fragrances! Most tuberose-centered perfumes turn dainty on me or the tuberose element is combined with glaring white florals to produce a shrill glamazon vibe. Tuberose scents I’ve worn with pleasure include original-formula Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle, Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite and Olfactive Studio Ombre Indigo. I’ll now add Flos Mortis* to this list…

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At night it’s richer, more generous

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I smelled [tuberose] from the morning to the evening and I realized that the smell is very different. When you smell the tuberose at night it’s richer, more generous. It emphasizes the lactonic creamy notes, the fruity peachiness. It’s much more powerful and orange-flower-like than the smell of the bud, which is greener. It’s addictive – you want to smell it again and again.

— Perfumer Sophie Labbé, who developed Bvlgari Tubereuse Mystique. Read more at Is Tuberose the Sexiest Fragrance Note? at Town & Country.

Maison Margiela Mutiny ~ fragrance review

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How much does a fragrance’s “back story” matter to you? I occasionally try to ignore the promotional copy and just smell a new perfume, just experience it on its own terms, but over and over again I fail in that resolution. I love storytelling. I love visuals. I want to know why people create the things they create. Sometimes a description or advertisement for a particular fragrance resonates with me; more often, it causes me to roll my eyes. I had both reactions to the promotional messaging for Mutiny, the new women’s fragrance from Maison Margiela.

Mutiny was developed by perfumer Dominique Ropion and its tagline is “Assert your self-expression. Banish conformity. Break the rules.” In a short promotional video for Mutiny, Ropion mentions being impressed by Galliano’s “audacity to subvert, deconstruct and rebuild” traditional clothing forms and wanting to do the same thing with tuberose…

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Aftelier Velvet Tuberose ~ fragrance review

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tuberose

I bet I’m not the only perfume lover who has trouble wearing tuberose. Now, I love tuberose. I adore its bombshell lushness and, whenever I can, I buy stems to keep on my mantel. I adore tuberose in perfume, too. Little beats the first five minutes of wearing Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower, and I can’t give up my Piguet Fracas Parfum, even if I can’t quite wear it, either.

Yet, after a tuberose perfume’s glorious first moments, too often I’m ready chew my arm off. Those few minutes of a soprano’s aria that were so beautiful at first, now are grating. Tuberose perfume — on me, that is — is just too much of a diva, and I need relief.

I’m happy to report that Aftelier Velvet Tuberose stands apart…

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