We should be happy. Chanel has been very careful with its legendary No. 5 and until now has only dared an Eau de Parfum and Eau Première beyond the original Eau de Toilette and Extrait. Both were careful enhancements. No No. 5 Noir or Eau de Sport or Resort Rose.
I can almost imagine Chanel executives casting sidewise glances at Guerlain. “What the heck are they doing with Shalimar?” they might ask. All those takes on the classic — Eau Legère, Light, Souffle de Parfum, Parfum Initial, Ode à la Vanille, and more — are akin to stealing Joan Crawford’s shoulder pads and eyebrows. At some point you end up not with an icon, but with a placid starlet who will please the common denominator for a few months, then be forgotten for good.
And now we have No. 5 L’Eau. Is it worthy of the original, or is it a sell-out?
No. 5 L'Eau was developed by Chanel house perfumer Olivier Polge, son of the former Chanel house perfumer, Jacques Polge, creator of No. 5 Eau de Parfum and Eau Première. No. 5 L’Eau’s notes include Rose de Mai, lemon, mandarin, bergamot, orange, aldehydes, jasmine, ylang ylang, sandalwood, cedar and “cottony” musk notes. Lily-Rose Depp, Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis’s wide-eyed, pouty-lipped kid, fronts the brand, which tells us that they’re aiming for a young market.
So, what have we got? Basically, No. 5 L’Eau is a “lighter and fresher” take on the original, just as Chanel promised. No. 5 L’Eau is recognizably a spawn of No. 5, but with the hard parts taken out. It’s not an Eau de Cologne in the traditional, bracing sense. Instead, it’s the sort of fragrance you could spray on by the quart and not feel overwhelmed. It’s No. 5 stolen from the womb before it had the chance to grow pearls and a cocktail dress.
No. 5 L’Eau likes its neroli and opens with a orange-y waft of steam-iron aldehydes sweetened with rose. As it relaxes, it shows the barest kiss of white flowers and veers dangerously close to shampoo, but more sheer. The occasional shimmer of jasmine peeks out during its first half hour. A gentle woody musk picks up the rear. And there you have it.
No. 5 L’Eau isn’t edgy, but neither is it old-fashioned. I’d feel comfortable giving a bottle to a 12-year-old, even if she craved the “sexier” but more banal Chance instead. An adult with a fat pocketbook might want a gallon jug with a sprayer to anoint curtains, lampshades and sheets. But I don’t see No. 5 L’Eau becoming a signature scent the way No. 5 is. It simply doesn’t have the guts. It’s probably not meant to.
To me, No. 5 L’Eau is a careful, pastel sketch of No. 5 that doesn’t pander to contemporary trends. It should stay relevant for decades, and I appreciate Chanel’s respectful approach. If I had a bottle, I know I’d use it up in the wink of an eye. But I like an Eau with a little bit of playfulness, and for the money I’d probably turn to Cartier Baiser Volé Eau de Toilette, instead. Of course, No. 5 Eau de Toilette will always have a place of honor in my perfume cabinet.
Chanel No. 5 L’Eau is $64 for 35 ml, $100 for 50 ml, $132 for 100 ml Eau de Toilette.
Nice,honest review!I did buy a 50ml,and this is why.No.5 to me is for evenings and grand soirees around a piano in a room full of chandeliers.L’Eau smells to me like the daylight-version,for a sultry summers’ day.It is perfect to me,layered with No.5 body lotion,as a work-appropriate scent as well.Not that I adhere to that much anyway,but still.A respectful ode to a classic.
“A respectful ode to a classic” is a great description. I’m glad you’re enjoying it!
Agreed with this. Would be a perfect work appropriate level of scent for a creative or arts office.
But honestly- this is a great riff of a classic, a way to wear ‘everyday’ instead of the classic. Of course, you can wear #5 classic everyday- it’s so gorgeous- but sometimes a sheer silk shift is wanted instead of heavy velvet dress.
I love your comparison of No. 5 L’Eau to a sheer silk shift as opposed to the velvet dress–even if it is silk velvet!
Oh, Gorsh- thanks Angela! And yes, even at a soiree, there is something to be said for the soft gliding lightness of a sheer silk shift.
True!
I love this!And 100% agree!
Me too ☺
Great review! I am not a No. 5 fan, but have really enjoyed wearing my sample of L’Eau. I find it lovely and sophisticated. Johanob comments are right on point. This would be a wonderful office appropriate scent.
Maybe it will be the gateway for you to full-on No. 5 love!
I’m much too old to fall for No. 5! Youth Dew, Norell, and No. 5 will forever be associated with my grandmothers and great aunts. Can’t go down that path. ????
I hear you! Well, then No. 5 L’Eau is perfect.
While I prefer Eau Premiere’s sandalwood heft, this is better than I expected (though easier on the white musk would have been nice). Don’t know anything about Lily-Rose Depp, but my vague impression is somewhat edgy. This isn’t edgy, but better quality than many current releases.
I think “better than I expected” is what a lot of people–including me–are thinking!
I haven’t tried L’Eau yet but I bet I’ll be with you—I adore the sandalwood heft of Eau Premiere, and I prefer when white musk is on the undetectable side of things.
In general, I’m not a fan of woody musk, but I didn’t find it too insistent here.
Ohhhh, I loved l’eau! Really really loved it! I think n. 5 parfum is one of my favorite frangrances of all time (with Shalimar and a few other Guerlains -the irony!) but I never cared for the edt or edp, related as they are…
To me l’eau started like a diluted version of the signature five-sque puff of aldehydes, not particularly engaging, but then it became so velvety and warm, with the woods and cinnamon giving the musks a cozy-spicy wrap… I just loved the heart and dry-down. I will cave for a bottle. Oh, but I get it how it might not engage people much… It doesn’t smell young and current to please the millennials, nor complex and original enough to please many educated noses…yet, I find it smells so good. 😉
PS I liked l’eau premiere, but never felt I needed it…
I’m so glad you loved it! It’s an easy fragrance to live with, and once you have a bottle I bet you reach for it a lot!
I’ll be still curious to gine No. 5 L’Eau a try.
Thanks for your review Angela and for picking up my curiosity.
It’s definitely worth a try! I hope I wasn’t discouraging, because I didn’t mean to be.
Not at all! Will try it the first time I’m nearby any Sephora
I’d love to know what you think of it!
Will keep you updated (or you’ll find what I think on my blog)
Great! Thank you.
Chanel No. 5 L’Eau reminds me of most of Prada’s line, in that it smells like a homeopathic version of a perfume. I am sure there is a much cheaper, diy version that could be made with perfumer’s alcohol – I don’t hate L’Eau, but it seems like terrible value.
The value question is a good one. L’Eau wears lightly, and it would be easy to use up a bottle practically without knowing it!
I’m really looking forward to trying this one. I love No. 5 but it isn’t really appropriate for lightweight everyday wear with sloppy old gym clothes in hot weather. Anybody know what the release schedule is? The web says it’s available and I know it’s still limited release at Sephora for VIB/Rouge members only but, I went to Sephora today to try it and they said they could sell me a bottle but didn’t have any testers and wouldn’t be putting out a display for a couple of weeks. I had to console myself with some lipstick and mascara since I wasn’t going to waste a trip through the parking lot from hell. 😉
L’Eau is perfect for “lightweight wear”! I wish I knew when it will be in stores, but I don’t. It has to be soon, though.
My Macy’s had a tester in last week. They were expecting to have it in stock soon. I might check again tomorrow.
So it really should be in very soon!
Wow,how does South African stores have it already(for weeks!!!)before the US?It’s always the other way around!Hope it gets there soon!
It’s a mystery to me how they decide what stores get what when…..
L’Eau does not pander to contemporary trends but I think it nods to them – that ‘cottony’ musk! The first time I wore it I got a touch of Narciso Rodreguez for Her in the dry down. Today is my second wearing (of a sample I cadged from the Chanel counter a week before the release in Australia). We’ll see.
Like others, I think I will ultimately prefer Eau Premiere and I’m glad I have a FB of that. I’ll put the cost of a bottle of L’Eau towards a bottle of No 22.
Yeah, the “cottony” musk, which hints suspiciously–although lightly!–at the woody musk in a lot of recent releases is the worst part of the scent for me.
I do agree with you on this review, Angela, but I just can’t help but be smitten with its fizzy, fun champagne start and it just makes me smile 🙂 I got a bottle as a present and I have enjoyed it the last couple of days 🙂 I think it’s suppose to be cologne like in edt form, but for me, it had to have a bit more umpf! for that 🙂 The great thing is that you can give it a good amount of sprays and it won’t offend anybody around you 🙂 The sad thing is that it doesn’t last that long..but hey, that’s the “L’eau” part I guess 🙂 I tried to layer it with Eau Premiere and it was really nice..took the acid like dry down (for me) away 🙂
Would I buy a 100 ml? Sure..it is a great morning scent-where Classic EDP is evening 🙂
I think if you like it, you NEED the 100 ml bottle, just because, as you say, it benefits from a few healthy spritzes! And, yes, it would be perfect to layer over with the EdT or EdP when you’re ready for a scent with more presence.
Absolutely 😉
And you will probably enjoy it more if you get it as a present 🙂
And it stands beautiful with my other Chanel No 5 bottles 🙂
Excellent point!
Great review as always. It was interesting that you said that L’Eau will probably never become a signature scent the way No. 5 is. It got me thinking about what characteristics make a fragrance signature-scent material. Perhaps a topic for a future article? Or what qualities make a fragrance a masterpiece/icon in general.
I think that would be a great question! To me, a signature scent needs character. It can’t be a bland “Stepford” scent. But this subject could definitely stand some rumination.
Please ruminate! I’m sure you’ll come up with a much better analysis than I would.
Nice to see Lily-Rose taking over from her mother. I’ve only tried L’Eau once and I didn’t like it one bit then. Found it sharp and rather screechy. Your and Victoria’s review have made me realise that I clearly need to try it again.
The first time I tried it, I got a whopper hit of shampoo, and it almost scared me off trying it again. I did, though, and liked it much better!
I wore vintage No 5 extrait to bed last night. I’ve come to love every iteration of No 5 that crosses my path, even though I am very disappointed they tinkered with the Eau Premiere which was my first No 5 love. Thankfully I am well stocked on pretty much any version of No 5 that exists/ed from vintage to some current. I am excited and nervous about the L’Eau. I actually took the effort to put my name on a list to be called when it finally shows up in our small “local” Macy’s. I am impatient to sniff a full blast. I need to make a decision on the musks which based on what everyone says will probably ruin it for me. Those musks are like Godzilla on Tokyo to my nose. I don’t care if Chanel wants to introduce another apparently well done flanker for No 5 and get the kiddies to love it and grow with it, but I really beg them not to mess with the other formulas too much more than they have. I still haven’t forgiven them for ruining the No 5 bar soap.
It can be nerve-wracking when your favorite fragrance is messed with–or even given a new version, as in L’Eau. I know just what you mean. Musks are so tricky, too.
Do let me know what you think of it, though. You know No. 5 inside and out. I’d love to know how L’Eau comes off to you.
If you want something that I would rate as a “solid buy” for No 5 that is really well done and well off the radar, the dry body oil they have out right now is A+. It has enough hints of the old style of No 5 with some of the more modern touches they put into their body line with kind of reducing all the base notes (no musk! yeah!). It’s like you get the opening and middle and it just stops there. And the price is good. It wears lightly too. Just sayin….
Hey, that’s a really good tip! I love body oils, too. I recently had the chance to take a couple of weeks of bath in No. 5 bath oil, and it was DIVINE.
Mmm, I got to try this one last weekend, and found that it sparkled on my skin 🙂 I am not a fan of No 5, but this one really brought out its qualities while eliminating everything that is a bit old and heavy in it (“the hard parts,” as you put it so wonderfully). I won’t spend my money on it, but like you, I’d certainly enjoy it if I accidentally ended up with a bottle!
“Sparkling” on skin is a wonderful description! Who doesn’t want a bit of sparkle?
Thank you for the review, Angela, and to everyone for the lively conversation here. This is quite a moment for No. 5.
A few years ago, I fell hard in love with No. 5 EdP. But the aldehydes were often too much for my nose, so I learned to spritz lightly. I love the parfum too, either alone or with a bit of the EdP.
But what have I wished for these past several years? A new No. 5 with gentler aldehydes and the lovely citrus and florals intact. L’eau could be my holy grail No. 5. Or not. The musk may be troublesome.
In a few weeks I will trek to the shops to find a tester. When it comes to fragrance you never know until you try.
I hope this one turns out to be the No. 5 that works for you! The musk is there, but I don’t find it too intrusive. I’ll be interested to see what you think.
As Angela say, the musk is there..but I almost don’t smell it at all..barely there for me, but a little hum..
Oh… The Indefatigable No. 5! I am desperate to smell this. I know in Jacques’ Hands we have the Sublime Eau Premiere. So I am hoping Fils Polge, Olivier can craft his own Mark on the No. 5 Monster that is so Universally Known! I like the sound of the notes and love your review, so am waiting eagerly to get a whiff of this!!
Again, Always as ever, Splendid Review, Mon Angel! 🙂
A No. 5 flanker could have gone off the rails in so many ways! It’s a relief that this one is respectful. I bet it becomes the gateway to No. 5 EdT for lots of people, or simply a relaxed, fresher version for people who have never quite got on with the original.
I really like it! To me, it’s like No. 5 reinterpreted for minimalists. I was extremely worried that it’d turn out to be a horrible sweet-bomb in the vein of La Vie Est Belle, but now I have a bottle, I lament the fact that I didn’t have faith in Chanel to treat their most revered work with respect. A winner, in my books!
I’m happy it’s not sweet or “to trend,” too. A relief!
WordPress is giving me a hard time. Sorry for the duplicate comment!
I agree! I was so happy it wasn’t too sweet or too much “to trend.”
I bought L’eau a week ago. Tried it on launch day ( also my birthday) whilst in Prague ( anybody know why perfume is soooo much more expensive in the Czech Republic than the UK? Almost everything else there is a fraction of the price). I decided to wait and try again when back in the UK. Picked up a sample locally and loved the initial citrus hit but then felt the fade to nothing happened too quickly. All the same, decided to purchase as a holiday/nice association with birthday reminder. I get it now. The dry down catches me out, how did I miss that to begin with?, and I am drawn to my wrist to keep sniffing that beautiful cosy and soft musk. Several nights I have spritzed this before bed and still smelled it in the morning. It’s so delicate and gentle though, definitely a skin scent rather than a statement scent.
Only in the past year have I appreciated No 5 (eau de parfum). I much prefer the dry down to the aldehyde hit, which I find overbearing. No 5 is a definite like, if not love, for me and one I very much enjoy to wear occasionally. My long term loves are Coco for evenings and No 19 on bright, sunny days.
So, I’m really not sure what my signature scent profile would be. I kind of wish I had one, but prefer to match to mood.
To balance out my loyalty to Chanel, I should also say that I have a soft spot for Charmade and, recently, Narciso Poudree. Also, JM Orange Blossom.
L’eau is clearly pitched at a younger target audience. I’m not so sure. I certainly don’t fit into that cohort and I imagine that those that do would possibly prefer more pizzazz and gourmand.
I’m very pleased with my L’eau, even if it is quiet and understated. I would definitely repurchase. I also like the suggestion of layering over No 5 body lotion.
A winner for me as well.
Thank you for your thoughtful comment! I felt like I was there with you as you sampled it and then grew to love it for its comfort and citrus tingle. It sounds like a great complement to the other fragrances you love, too.
I’ve liberally spritzed L’Eau on two different days, from the tester kept hidden under the Chanel counter at my local Nordstrom’s. As a lifelong lover of No. 5 (first fragrance gift of my life, from the first love of my life), I wasn’t anticipating how much I’d enjoy L’Eau. It’s clearly No. 5, but the changes make it so well suited to daily SoCal life. I’m going for the FB, the big one, and it will share front of cabinet space with both No. 5 and Premiere.
One interesting note: In talking with young SAs in Bloomies, Nordies and Sephora, their enthusiasm for L’Eau was big and surprising. Several said they planned to buy bottles, they love it so much. If the SA adoration is any indication, L’Eau may end of fulfilling parental expectations after all.
The SA at my local Sephora said he’s planning on buying a bottle, too!
I have to admit that I bought a FB after one day of testing. That happens like twice in a decade!
So, you should also know that I am pregnant and that during pregeancy my usual taste is gone and I crave for comfy and sweet scents. In my first pregnancy I bought a FB of SL Bois Vanillé (the only vanilla/sweet stuff I won) – any further questions?
It took me 20 years to appreciate Chanel No 5 – unfortunately I am allergic to EdT and EdP. I love the aldehydes, not so much the drydown, so I bought also Eau Premiere. The dry down there ist synthetic and flat and L’Eau provides a much better and softer drydown, well balanced with white flowers.
Actually it reminded me a LOT of Allure in the drydown! A pale version of it…
It is a comfy scent ypu can literally pour on you! I like it very much, and it will fly off the shelves for sure.
What I deeply dislike though is the campaign, since they put on front a 15-16yo anorexic spawn of some celebs. The 35ml are supposed to cost 70 Euro (!!) in Germany. Well, I know that the group of 14yo-30yo have most money, and the target group is a young one, but still. She is not a good role model for young people (or am I getting old/odd?)
The scent has been widely promoted in the social media sphere also, so… Let’s say: No need to worry for the Chanel No 5 wearer. The teenage daughter will make her own experiences 😉
I love it that you have a scent for your pregnancy! (Congratulations, by the way.) It’s as if the baby will have his/her own smell track. I can imagine No. 5 L’Eau feeling maternal, in way.
I just got my first test spray yesterday in the Palo Alto Macy’s. Better than I could have hoped, considering how much I disliked Eau Premiere. L’Eau is like a gentle souvenir of no5, certainly “office appropriate” or delightful on a hot summer day. I’m a true fan of the original in parfum, but enjoy it most in cool rainy weather; to me, the original is a very contemplative scent. No5 L’Eau is still elegant and chic, yet sheer enough for summer – as Ede said above, “like a sheer silk dress”. One might be tempted to spray it liberally, though, which might escalate the price-per-wearing quite a bit!
That’s my only beef with it! I’d want to wear several sprays, and it would set me back financially before long.
It is extremely wearable and very, very enjoyable, almost addictive in a way. I hate most Chanels for the excessive head ripping aldehydes but No.5., Coromandel and some other exclusives are truly amazing creations. I find this new version of No.5 similar, yet different, much more citrusy, animalic notes toned down but still somewhat there. I have to say that the more I tried it, the more I cannot live without it because for hot summers it is great. I want to own a big bottle and that is the problem, this stuff does not last at all and has little sillage. Again a problem that many Chanel Exclusives share as well. If you spray it on clothes and hair though that does the trick. I found out that it will last over 24 hours on coats, dresses, etc. Maybe layering with the original cream or oil but I usually do not spend that money on creams but rather on the fume, also while this is undoubtedly No.5, it is far enough from the original that I am not sure I would want to layer it with the cream or oil. But since I have been circling it and testing it at counters for weeks, pretty sure I will end up getting it at the Duty Free on my next trip out in two weeks. Somehow I cannot wait to wear this stuff. Really a great match for spring and hot weather. I am not sure this is for younger generations only though, there I disagree. I think this works best for the 30´s-40´s age groups although I can imagine younger girls wearing it too. Most likely not for women who are older though agreed. The best part is its versatility, its playfulness with the notes, serious and fun, young and sophisticated, elegant but vibrant, toned down but with hidden animalic notes.
It sounds like true love! You will soon have your new perfect scent for spring and summer. Thank you for the tip about spraying it on clothes and hair, too.
Hi All,
Which one should I get? Chanel No. Five edp or edt?
I want one that lasts..
I only tried the hair mist.
Is the scent exactly the same, just different concentration? My nose of scent is still immature.
Thanks
Maybe you should try them all on at the same time and compare them. That will give you a good idea of each other’s merits.
As for the hair mist, I haven’t tried it.
Good luck! I bet you’ll find the perfect formulation if you try them each next to each other.
So Disappointed, I have worn no 5 for years & everyone loves it, with its newest changes no one notices!
You mean you’re now wearing No. 5 L’Eau and no one notices? Or that you’re wearing the original? Either way, I’m sure you smell great!
Got my new bottle of No.5 L’Eau and I love it. I love all but it’s my
birthday last week and I was given a gift card and I loved the fact that I chose this one because I really love all the No. 5s, and I really am happy with my purchase of the latest…I was running out of my No. 5 edp. and was sad… I am happy now.
I’m so glad you’re happy with it! It will be a good one this summer.