Last year Atelier Cologne released Sous le toit de Paris in honor of the centennial of the dome at the Galeries Lafayette, one of Paris's most elegant department store buildings. The dome (la coupole), designed by architect Ferdinand Chanut and glass artist Jacques Gruber, is the unofficial symbol of the Galeries Lafayette as well as a beautifully preserved example of Art Nouveau design. It's fantastic in every sense of the word. As Atelier's homage to the dome reads, "A century of elegance and extravagance! La Coupole has covered times and fashions, while inside the emotion has remained the same. The wish to reinvent oneself. The pleasure of looking and discovering. The joy of possessing the object of desire..."
Sous le toit de Paris ("under the roof of Paris") is a special edition fragrance, available only at Atelier Cologne boutiques and the Galeries Lafayette. Its composition includes top notes of Moroccan neroli, Sicilian bergamot and African bigarade; heart notes of French violet leaves, South African geranium and Haitian vetiver; and base notes of Brazilian tonka bean, musk and white leather. Like most of Atelier's fragrances, it's complex yet not overwhelming, and it could be worn by either women or men. Now that I've finally tried it, it's one of my favorites from the brand.
Atelier works its "cologne" theme into each fragrance in the line, and Sous le toit de Paris has an appropriately cologne-ish citrus accord in its opening. There's also something like fennel or anise that I enjoy very much. These top notes merge into a more floral heart: the violet is the star here, and there's more of it than you might expect from the list of notes. It's a dry, slightly dusty-sweet violet (rather than a greenish violet or a candied violet), and it's backed up by smooth vetiver, pale woods and a hint of suede. For an hour or so, Sous le toit has quite a bit of presence, but then it quiets down for the rest of its long-lasting wear. Its eventual dry-down is a little more feminine, with a touch of powder in the musk, but it certainly never veers into Lipstick Rose territory. The violet persists nicely, and the fennel (anise?) seems to re-materialize from time to time.
All in all, Sous le Toit de Paris is interesting and wearable, and made of high-quality ingredients, like many Atelier fragrances. Could it be a tribute to classic French violet fragrances like Guerlain Après L’Ondée and Balenciaga Le Dix? I wonder. Of course, it feels more "modern" than either of those perfumes: like other Atelier fragrances (such as Grand Néroli and Vétiver Fatal), it's a contemporary re-interpretation of a classic ingredient. It should appeal to lovers of other new, woody-musky violets like Balenciaga Paris. It certainly appeals to me, and it also makes me want to visit the Galeries Lafayette and stare up at that remarkable glass dome.
Atelier Cologne Sous le Toit de Paris is available as 30 ml ($65) and 200 ml ($175) Cologne Absolue ("concentrated at 15%"). For purchasing information, see the listing for Atelier Cologne under Perfume Houses. (Although Sous le toit de Paris has limited store distribution, it's available through the Atelier Cologne website.)
Oh, this sounds very pretty! Not sure when I’d encounter it to give it a try, though.
I was in a violet mood this morning and I’m resampling SSS Voile de Violette as a result. There’s something a bit odd about it–the myrrh maybe?–that keeps it from being a love for me, I think. Anyway, I keep looking for B. Paris with a bit more complexity and a little less politeness.
I should have mentioned SSS Voile de Violette as another “modern woody-violet” above! It’s still very different from Sous Le Toit… but I’d put them in the same category.
I’ve only been to the Galeries Lafayette in Berlin so I forgot that it is originally a store in Paris.
I’ve always wanted to try Après L’Ondée, but I prefer modern fragrances so I’d like to try this.
I remember being very grateful, on my one trip to Paris, that a French friend had told to visit the grand old department store buildings. They’re spectacular!
I just got my Atelier sample. This is like a modern, cologne version of Apres L’Ondee to me so hence more wearable for me but with the same beautiful dusty violet heart. I actually saw the colour purple when I first sprayed it. I don’t pick up on much citrus but it is very very nice.
I was in Paris last December. I drug my mom to Galleries Lafayette just to see the dome. We loved it (and the food emporium!) so much we spent almost the entire day there. I am kicking myself for not seeing this. It would have been the perfect souvenir.
Sorry, “Galeries.”
There was probably so much to see that it was easy to miss this one particular perfume! Overwhelming, right?
Well, I did come home with three full bottles, one mini, five rollerballs, eight soaps, one body powder, and a perfume for my cats. I can’t really say I “missed out.”
Hah, no! Well done.
I received a decant of this earlier this year and it was definitely LOVE at first sniff! The most beautiful wearable violet I’ve had the joy to find, it would well wear any time any where though I especially love it on grey days. It is a limited edition and I hope to get a fb before too long.
Flannery, I’ve been wearing it in warmer weather, but I think I’ll love it even more on grey fall days! Hope you’ll be able to own a full bottle soon.
This is my favorite in the Atelier Cologne line. It is quite refreshing, perfect on a spring day and also appropriate for warm/hot/scorching weather like we’re having right now in the northeast.
The Galeries Lafayette dome is indeed a wonderful sight to behold!
I meant to mention that there is no soap for this particular cologne scent and that is just too bad
I’ve heard that the soaps are wonderful—I wouldn’t mind owning one in Trefle Pur or Mistral Patchouli!
I agree—this fragrance is substantial enough for cool weather, but not too heavy for warm weather. Versatile!
This is very nice – not my favorite from Atelier Cologne by far, but I’m very glad I tried it. The combination of citrus + violet seems original and it’s quite refreshing.
I like the citrus and violet combination, too. I own and love several violet fragrances, but this one isn’t quite like anything else I wear.
A violet cologne – this is intriguing! It sounds like a possible fancy lemonade recipe, too.
I don’t have any bottles from this line yet. I liked Rose Anonyme, but it’s similar enough to Kilian Rose Oud, which I already have, that I don’t need it. I’m sure I don’t have a citrus violet, though, so I need to find a way to try this.
I feel the same way about Rose Anonyme — I have a sample, and I like it, but I own enough spicy-sweet roses already.
One of my favorite cocktails is the Aviation, which includes creme de violette, gin, maraschino liqueur, and lemon juice… so it makes sense that I would like a violet fragrance like this one!
Sounds delightful. I love violet in all its permutations.
Me, too! Some of my other favorites are Apres l’Ondee, Lipstick Rose, and Annick Goutal La Violette…but I’ll try almost anything with a prominent violet note!
It’s one of my favourite Atelier Cologne fragrances.
Very crisp and fresh, ideal for every time of the year.
I agree! It’s beautifully done, and so versatile.
I first saw the Galeries Lafayette when I was 16, and I remember staring in wonder at the glass dome! I like the idea of a violet wood anise perfume. Makes me think of the original Lolita Lempicka, which I have been wearing lately.
I’m a long-time fan of the original Lolita Lempicka, too! This fragrance is more “grown up” and less gourmand. You should try it when you have a chance!
Thanks for reviewing this! I love this fragrance. The violet or violet leaf note and suede are very prominent on my skin. It is fantastic and versatile. I think it could be worn in so many different situations. A small bottle *will* be mine when the weather turns. Unfortunately it is so hot here, I am not ordering it now for fear it will be injured by the heat In shipping. I’ll have to be patient and wait for fall. . .or a trip to a city with an Atelier boutique or Paris. Hmmm, must work on that, soonest
I agree with all of this, and I hope that that you’ll own a bottle soon! Atelier is smart to offer those smaller bottles. And the leather cases for them are so nice-looking!
I received my sample set today, 12 euros for 11 samples.
I am liking Vetiver Fatal, Oolong infini, and Orange sanguine. Orange sanguine made my mouth water when I first applied!
There may be a few bottles to be ordered. They are also offering free shipping to Europe until the end of August.
Do I need anymore reasons…..