About the author: Nina is our guest shopper for London. If you missed her review of the Perfume Diaries exhibit, you can find it here. She took all of the images for this article.
The Perfume Diaries season at Harrods is not just about the exhibition. Throughout September, there are a number of evening events featuring some of the people and processes involved in the production of perfume.
For me, the most exciting of these was ‘The House of Guerlain’ on 9 September, with Jean-Paul Guerlain himself, and current in-house parfumeur, Thierry Wasser. I went along with my friend and neighbour Stephanie, fizzing with excitement.
All of the events are first-come-first-seated, apart from this one, which was a very hard gig to get into. On the night, the exhibition area was packed, with guests being checked off carefully on a list and absolutely no interlopers allowed to gatecrash.
So, let’s set the scene. Long white exhibition space, space cleared in the middle for rows of clear Perspex chairs (So cool! Where can I get some?), three black Perspex chairs set out in front of a Guerlain advertising board. Lots of beautiful people, amazing shoes, Chanel handbags, men in makeup, chaps with TV cameras sliding around looking tense. Put it this way, a person was glad she had put on her good earrings and filed her nails for once…
A little later than expected, the men of Guerlain arrived to a roar of applause. M. Guerlain is frail and in a wheelchair (although very handsome and extremely charming — and beautifully dressed.) M. Wasser is young, dark, good-looking and Swiss. What more could you ask for? (Apart from, maybe, a complimentary bottle of Liu and your pick of the Guerlain bottles exhibit?)
Mohammed Al Fayed made a short introduction, which seemed to leave the Harrods staff nonplussed, perhaps because they’re not entirely sure if they still work for him (he recently sold Harrods to Qatar Holdings).
The event was framed as an interview, with questions being asked by Marigay McKee, Harrods’ Fashion & Beauty Director. These are the highlights:
Reasons for the longevity of the House of Guerlain?
[JPG] “Quality. Simple ideas and sticking with them. Only sell what you have created.”
What did your grandfather teach you?
[JPG] “Again, quality. And he said ‘Create perfumes for a woman you’re in love with...”
Greatest achievement?
[JPG] “I don’t know! I started with Vetiver, 51-52 years ago, and it’s still the most important men’s fragrance of the house. Samsara is the most important fragrance I created, even if it’s not the best seller.”
How old were you when you created your first perfume?
[JPG] “16.”
What was the original inspiration for Guerlinade?
[JPG] “Something you smell, and know it’s a Guerlain.”
[TW] “It’s a trade secret…”
Are you still creating perfumes?
[JPG] “Of course!”
[TW] “We will soon launch Arsene Lupin, which Jean-Paul created.”
Hobbies?
[JPG] “Riding…dressage. I started riding at the age of two, because my nanny thought I was too fat! I qualified to compete in the Olympic Games, but I had trouble with my hip…”
[TW] “M. Guerlain combines perfume and horses; he created Habit Rouge (the red coat worn by male riders), and he scents his horses.”
Thierry, how would you describe your style?
[TW] “I’m not sure I have a style. The House of Guerlain is unique, and can encompass many styles.”
What are you currently working on?
[TW] Our job is so secret, we don’t even know! But I suppose I can mention…in two years time, it will be the anniversary of L’Heure Bleue, which was created in 1912. Jean-Paul has some ideas for that…”
At this point, the audience was invited to ask questions.
M. Guerlain, if the founder of the house were to come forward in time,what would he think of the perfume world of today?
[JPG] “I think he wouldn’t be very happy!”
What do you see as the best and the worst aspects of the perfume industry today?
[JPG] “Anyone thinks he can sell perfume, even if he doesn’t make the perfume, doesn’t get close to the process. Again, we only sell what we personally make. There are many designers today who want to have perfumes, but get someone else to create for them. They are not close to the materials, the quality of them.”
[TW] “We spend at least four months every year travelling to source our materials — we go to India, Calabria, Bulgaria. We have our own distillation plant for orange blossom. The quality of the ingredients is vital.”
Talking about the L’Heure Bleue anniversary, for example, what are you planning to do about the restrictions on ingredients, for example, the difficulty of including oakmoss?
[JPG pulls a face, to the amusement of the audience.]
[TW] “For many years, the perfume houses like Guerlain, Chanel have depended on secrecy; they would never have thought to form a trade association to fight for their interests. That’s got to change. Frankly, it pisses me off. If you read the French papers, you’ll know that the perfume houses are very unhappy with what’s going on. We have to pull out those bits of our materials that the European Union doesn’t like…. Look, I’ve brought a book with me today, from the safe at Guerlain, which contains recipes for perfumes, handwritten by members of the family. We try to be as close as possible to those old recipes. Of course, you can’t think that, say, Après L’Ondée is exactly the same today, because some suppliers have disappeared, gone out of business. But we try to keep as close to the original as possible. Unfortunately, we cannot break the law.”
There is a silent moment while we contemplate what would happen if all the perfume houses were to do just that — break the law. Hmmm.
And naturally, we all want to see that amazing book — old, yellowed — to search for the Jicky formula. But some security killjoys put it on a stand, under a glass box, so I’m afraid I can’t tell you any mystery ingredients…
The evening concluded with champagne and — I can hardly bear to tell you this — yet more of those wonderful little sweet perfections. In fact, this time there was an even wider range. There were tiny white china tagines containing creamed and rose-infused rice, and candied-orange sponges scattered with lavender. They were so good, I could have wept with pleasure.
M. Guerlain graciously chatted to guests, and signed programmes, until eventually all the lights went out, because it was long past Harrods’ closing time. We had to go home.
Luscious delicacies, champagne, a splurged-on bottle of Spiritueuse Double Vanille, and Jean-Paul Guerlain’s autograph on my programme. What can I say? I’d hate me too. I mean, I’d like to tell you that I tripped on the darkened escalator and broke my bottle of SDV, ruining my personalised note from M. Guerlain…but I’m afraid I didn’t. The way I see it, that autograph belongs to all of us at Now Smell This; it just happens to live in my house (perfume bureau, bottom drawer).
But I’m afraid I’m too cheap to share the SDV.
The exhibition runs till 2nd October, Harrods, fourth floor, admission free.
Thanks, Nina, for a fascinating account of a great event – historic, even. How wonderful to meet an actual Guerlain and have your programme signed!
I couldn’t get down to that session, but am hoping to catch the talk this coming Thursday. If so, I will remember to wear my good earrings… : – )
Sorry, fs, I responded to you in the wrong place – look for the ‘denim’ post!
This was wonderfully informative and amusing, Nina, thank you! (And I don’t hate you. But I will expect you to show me the autograph if I’m ever in London. 😉 )
It’s a deal!
Ha! Denim is definitely a no-no, unless it’s by Victoria Beckham, I guess. It really did feel like a historic event. I kept thinking “I’m sharing air with a Guerlain!” JPG was so patient and charming, he delighted us all. Are you going to the European perfume night? I’m assuming that Mona di Orio will be there, which should be interesting…do let us know how it goes.
No, not that one – the session later in the week with P & G and Givaudan talking about how perfumes are made (mainstream ones I imagine). Thought it would be interesting to see how much they are able to reveal about which aspects of the process. (Plus that happens to be the first night I am free to make the trip down!)
Thanks for the tip on no denim! I had a hunch that might be the case, and was thinking of something more in the frock line.
As much as it would be amazing to be in the same room with perfume great JPG…..the event you are going to attend would be the one for me….do report back…hopefully with lots of inside information! **rubbing hands together in anticipation**
That should be a very interesting evening…I wonder what they’ll reveal? Please report back!
Thank you so much for such a detailed description of the event and the question and answer session!
I felt charmed just by your description of M. Guerlain, who sounds delightful, as well as your impression of the crowd at large.
I am now very curious about the 2012 anniversary of L ‘Huere Bleue, which is a favorite of mine and my first FB Guerlain purchase.
So Arsene Lupin is the next Guerlain? Can’t wait to learn more!
I just googled Arsene Lupin to see what I could find –
Arsene Lupin is the name of a fictional character, a gentleman thief, in a series of detective/crime novels written by French author Maurice Leblanc (1864-1941). There are also television shows and films related to the character.
Could this be homage or an elaborate joke by M. Guerlain?
I’m guessing that it’s a scent for men? The name seems quite un-Guerlain to me!
Arsène Lupin has very refined tastes. He would definitely wear a Guerlain cologne.
Wow, Nina — yes, I am jealous, but you described it so well it’s like I was there! Fascinating. Thanks so much for the article!
Thanks! I wish you could have been there.
Wow! I’m so glad that one of our group got to attend! I shall go have a spritz of SDV in your honor!
And don’t you smell delicious!
I do!! and so do you!! 😀
Thank you for this article! I’m planning on visiting the Maison Guerlain in Paris soon so it’s great to know more about the brand before.
Have a wonderful trip and come back with something fabulous! (I’m still cross that I didn’t buy Vega when I was there..)
So fabulous .:) 🙂
I love Jean Paul Guerlain – what will happen when he passes on ,I dread to think .Guerlain is so unique in this world today – almost ike a prized living dinosaur – that’s a compliment…:D
Thierry Wasser- so handsome. 🙂
I must say, I really loved him too, after that evening. Guerlain came across as a house where perfume was loved, and its quality prized, and you could taste his despair with what passes for ‘perfume’ these days. There was clearly much warmth between him and Thierry Wasser – it was almost like a father / son relationship. TW was protective of the older man; it was touching.
Still an’ all, Guerlain has to make money in today’s perfume world. How it goes about that, while maintaining its traditions, is the big question, post-LVMH take-over.
Thanks for the fascinating post, especially the question and answer bit.
Annemarie, the interesting thing about the question and answer session was that the most incisive questions were asked by the audience. It was clear that there was much consumer concern about the IFRA-sparked reformulations. I wonder if any of that will impact on the money and marketing people?
Thanks, yes, and good on Guerlain for making its star perfumers so available to the public.
Sounds like a magical evening – thanks for taking us there with you if only in spirit. I’d join Daisy in spritzing SDV but sadly, it’s all gone so I’ll have to dig out something else by Guerlain.
NOOooooooo! out of SDV??? eek. But cold weather is on its way…this is a dire situation!
What an envy-inducing article, you lucky dog! Thank you so much for sharing the experience. And I’m fascinated that he scents his horses — with what, I wonder?
You know, Lily, TW did say, but I didn’t catch it. It might just have been Chant d’aromes, but I wouldn’t want to spread a rumour!
I think that would be magical Nina, I’m very happy you got to attend and experience it for the rest of us. Thank you for writing about it.
I have some vintage Guerlain Habit Rouge and it’s strange how otherworldly but comforting it is.
I love the Guerlain drydown of all the perfumes,
it’s the best part for me!
Yes, that’s where true commitment to quality lies – in the dry down!
Habit Rouge is just lovely, isn’t it? I bought some years ago for my husband, and immediately ‘borrowed’ it. Permanently.
The hairs on the back of my neck went up at the sight of the PHOTO even of the book with all the formula – to be in the same room as it and a real live flesh and blood Guerlain! Well, you are lucky but I am very grateful for your lovely account. And aren’t those transparent chairs by Philippe Staerk? (spelling could be wrong)
Darn it, Dona, that means they’ll cost a fortune! No fancy perspex for me.
I know what you mean! I was literally blinking back tears at reading the part about the book and seeing that photo! Tears!! What’s wrong with me? lol
This is a great account of an unmissable event! Unmissable, except by the rest of us who missed it…darn living in another country!
I certainly did feel very privileged, Katie. I just wish I lived in Paris, where (in my fantasies) you can rub shoulders with a Guerlain every day!
Sounds like it was really fascinating.
Booking was essential for this event, the prog. said… I wonder how they selected the audience. I can’t imagine only so-called ‘beautiful’ people and very wealthy ones applied to attend. Wasn’t I working very hard at the moment, *I* would have phoned them. Would they have turned me down? I am not ‘beautiful’, don’t have amazing shoes or a Chanel handbag. *puzzled*
You know, Bela, I called up to book when I first saw it advertised, and was told that I’d got the ‘last two places’, which rather surprised me. I can only think that a lot of people were already on the guest list.
Have to say i got a call from the guys at the Roja Dove Haute Perfumerie a few days before they released the finished schedule & that was a long time before they actually started actively advertising it – I do have a Harrods loyalty card so maybe some card holders got the tip off early!
Ah, that explains it, I think.
I had a sense that there were a lot of fashion / beauty editors there (Chanel bags = invitation-only sample sales). I doubt very much if they phoned up to book. I imagine there were only so many seats left for the buying public?
I love the juice, but have to say i’m really looking forward to the talk on 30th all about the bottles with the guys from Baccarat ! 🙂
Oh, I’m dying to know what you learn – some of those bottles are stunning!