Last week I went to Nordstrom in search of a spritz of Hermès Bel Ami. I'd recently discovered that I liked its citrus-coriander-leather goodness even better than that of Bois 1920 Come La Luna, and I was trying decide if I needed to save up for a bottle. "Bel Ami? Is that for a guy? You'll have to go upstairs," the sales associate at the perfume counter told me. All the masculines were on the second floor.
My first thought was, Crazy! they're losing out on a potentially huge market for the masculines by putting them somewhere women were less likely to discover them. My second thought was, what is the difference between a fragrance marketed to women and one marketed to men?
At the back of The Book of Perfume by Elisabeth Barillé and Catherine Laroze is a chart of fragrances broken down by type — citrus, citrus spicy, floral, floral aldehyde, etc. — and by gender. A casual glance through the chart shows that the authors classify the preponderance of florals as for women. The exception is the category "single lavender floral", all of which are listed for men. The fougères, except Guerlain Jicky and a few others, are listed for men, and the woody fragrances were also marked entirely as masculine, except for Shiseido Féminité du Bois. In other words, eaux de cologne, woody fragrances, and lavender fragrances — scents that are fresh and bracing or smell like a campsite — are masculine. Flowers, fruit, powder, and aldehydes are feminine.
To me, some scents may smell more "girly" or "manly" than others, but these qualities are on a continuum. We all have our preferences as to how feminine or masculine we like to smell, and when. For example, many women can't bear a powdery rose and violet scent, such as Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose, because it reads as too feminine to them. I'm sure there are men who reject some masculine fragrances, like Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir because they smell hyperbolically "manly".
Besides having different comfort levels with how womanly or manly a fragrance smells to us, we don't all identify the same smells as masculine or feminine. For instance, the sales associate at the Barney's Frédéric Malle counter says that Saudi princes buy Une Rose by the gross. To me, patchouli and coriander add a masculine edge to a fragrance, but many people wouldn't agree. Sometimes a perfume house's designation of a scent as masculine or feminine seems arbitrary, as well. In a blind sniff, I bet many people would peg Amouage Gold Pour Homme, Stetson For Men, and Dior Homme as feminine and Christian Dior Escale à Portofino and Givenchy III as masculine.
I think stores make a mistake by separating the masculines and feminines. We perfume lovers know that on a summer day a woman wearing a full-skirted cotton batiste dress and a spray of Christian Dior Eau Sauvage is the epitome of chic. A man in a perfectly tailored suit with a dab of Guerlain Mitsouko parfum at the base of his neck is irresistible. Despite that I haven't put on a pair of pants in nearly two years and am nimble in stilettos, I love my Guerlain Coriolan, Lalique Encre Noir, and Annick Goutal Duel. And yes, I'm planning on a bottle of Bel Ami before fall.
Women, which masculine fragrances do you like? Men, which fragrances marketed as feminine do you wear?
Note: images are Blue Wood 1 by ediamond at flickr; some rights reserved and Flower Study in Pink by Lincolnian (Brian) at flickr; some rights reserved.
I couldn’t agree more! Lately I seem to be more interested in fragrances that might be considered strictly masculine. So many of the perfumes on the market now are just to sweet for me. I wear Aramis which is very much like Estee Lauder’s Azuree but I like the drydown better. And I have a Guerlain Vetiver coming in the mail that I can’t wait for! I also think some of the more masculine scents are nicer in the hot weather. I really love something more brisk when the temperature warms up!
Good point about masculines and hot weather–so often they cut right through them and are refreshing. Enjoy the Guerlain Vetiver!
I like spices. I looove cumin and black pepper. These don’t seem either feminine or masculine to me at all. So I think most of the perfumes that I like are strictly unisex.
I think Fou D’Absinthe is really masculine, but I like it.
Perfume houses were smart to start classifying scents as “unisex”, I think, or like L’Artisan, not really classifying them at all and letting the user decide.
Angela, you are so right! I used to feel uncomfortable sneeking into the women’s department. Usually the SA would ask for whom I am trying to find something and then be slightly irritated by the answer. But even with the unisex ranges you get the odd old-fashioned SA: (eyes wide open) ‘Oh, you really want to try Fleur d’Oranger on Y*O*U*R skin!?! It’s rather feminine though!’ (didn’t like it btw). I’ve grown out of that shyness though recently, I nowadays say I’m interested in scents – masculine AND feminine – and just want to sniff around a bit.
In Berlin I recently discovered even the SAs are getting more open-minded. It seems to get around that it’s ok if men are interested in the ‘wrong’ fragrances. In some upmarket places they even tell you before you have time to get embarrassed: ‘nowadays it doesn’t really matter that much anymore’, or: ‘we get loads of gentlemen who are buying L’Instant de Guerlain for themselves’. I’m so relieved times are changing!
I like loads of Unisex (e.g Gaultier2, AA Anisia Bella & Mentafollia, 1 Jardin en Méditerranée) and I am finding more and more feminines I like. Some I do find quite feminine but don’t mind that, like with Omnia, Arpège, Vol de Nuit (scent of my dreams!).
Others I like I really don’t perceive as feminine despite being marketed as such, like Infusion d’ Iris, Aprés L’Ondée, Givenchy III, EaPortofino, Costume N. Scent Intense, Patou 1000.
Masculines which I perceive as perfecly unisex are e.g. Rive Gauche pH (gorgeous dry Jasmine & Patchouli fougère without that sweaty 70s feeling) and Lacroix Tumulte pH (no-frills smoky cedar with some conciliatory greens filling the cracks, buy it as long as it’s available!!).
I can tell right away that we like a lot of the same fragrances, so I am going to search out Tumulte ph right away! And I completely agree with your assessment of the fragrances you listed. 1000 could be a masculine for sure, and as I was writing this post yesterday I was wearing Vol de Nuit EdT and thinking I’d love to smell it on a man. I’m glad you’re finding SAs more open, too.
I think Vol de Nuit is very masculine as well – it’s actually one of the reasons I like it so much – it’s like you are cozying up to a *very* interesting man – it is so confident and aloof with that wonderful leather accord! As far as Guerlain masculines – I think VdN is more masculine than Habit Rouge or Coriolan.
I think I’d still put Coriolan ahead of VdN on the masculinity scale, at least on my skin, but I definitely see your point, especially with the EdT.
Hello AnnS & Angela (there was no ‘reply’ link under the next comments below!),
Tumulte was reviewed here by, was it Robin? Bought my 2nd botlle this week for £9,00/50ml online as it’s out of production. Coriolan I remember vaguely from putting it on some 10 years ago. Back then as a student I couldn’t afford more than 1 scent (and some 1881 Homme, which I occasionally still like to wear, which I found reduced to DM 20,– ;)), but Coriolan is something that I mean to try again. Someone around here told me it had juniper and a sage note. I think I prob. liked it because it’s not that obviously masculine and rather flowery, if I remember well. Just put me off that G re-released it for a much higher price. Regarding Habit Rouge I am strongly promoting the EdT Légère version for sommer with orange flower.
Thanks! I’ve seen Coriolan going for a song at internet discounters, too. No reason to have to shell out for the expensive Ame d’Un Heros or whatever they’re calling it.
“We perfume lovers know that on a summer day a woman wearing a full-skirted cotton batiste dress and a spray of Christian Dior Eau Sauvage is the epitome of chic.”
I didn’t know that D:
Hey, now you do! Seriously, though, doesn’t it sound chic to you?
I haven’t tried Eau Savage, and I didn’t know what a batiste dress is so I google image searched it, and I am getting baby clothes.
I don’t think my mind can process chic.
Are these chic? http://www.telegraph.co.uk/telegraph/multimedia/archive/01360/gareth_pugh1_1360353i.jpg
Hey, those are wickedly chic! I see them with the contrast of a more traditional perfume, say Joy….
I was thinking of a sheer, floaty sundress.
Kroc, love those pics and they are very chic! All I found were kids clothing too…..
I’m wearing a cotton batiste dress from the early 1960s right now! The skirt is lined so you can’t see through it. (I’m wearing Mandragore, though.)
Yes! I’ve forever had the association that fashionable women who wear mens fragrances are terrifically chic. When I was thirteen I had an older friend who loved Chaps (do they even make that anymore? I will have to look into it…) who also wore some very cutting-edge stuff for a fifteen year old. I thought she was the coolest thing ever, and have thought ladylike chicks wearing masculine scents was the height of coolness ever since.
She does sound pretty darn chic for a teenager. I love that.
Heck yeah, Angela! I FELT more chic just reading it!
Great! Although I’m sure you’re marvelously chic as it is.
nope, not chic hardly ever….however I do smell fantastic!
what a coincidence, Angela. it was two days ago, after making a successful bid for lancome trophee, that I pondered on the same thing. trophee is marketed as masculine, for successful golf players 🙂 and I am a woman, and I love it. It’s a perfect green chypre, citrus, basilicum, woods, jasmine…a dream. another men’s fragrance, cuir ottoman (although I believe that at Parfume d’empire they do not divide their fragrances into men’s and women’s, but shops frequently say that cuir ottoman is a men’s fragrance), how lovely it is! also, I used to own hermes, terre d’hermes (but had to pass it to my brother because I couldn’t stand it after having to sit through an hour on a plane next to a gentlement who had a very heavy hand when he applyied it). others I love, guerlain habit rouge and the old cacharel pour homme and dior’s dune
I’ve never smelled eau sauvage though…
Golf champs! That’s pretty funny. Good thing you could see beyond the marketing. And definitely try Eau Sauvage. It’s so nice for summer, and the bottle is great, too.
Gosh, I guess I wear just about anything I want anytime I want… though I don’t personally go for exaggerated florals and avoid anything with too much sillage in the office. However, I’m partial to rose, like those Saudi princes.
I prefer shops like Aedes where everything is just mixed together, and you’re right: I think sales might be better if there were just one big fragrance counter in the middle of the store. I must admit I do feel a bit weird using the perfume testers in the “ladies’ cosmetics department” — though I’m gradually getting over it.
Honestly, with a mini fridge and a hot plate I could move into Aedes and live there forever…
I’d love to see SAs trained in introducing men to fragrances that have traditionally been marketed to women and vice versa.
Joe, are you a Saudi Prince in disguise? The Lyric will make you smell like you have a hareem! You should test Lancome’s Sikkim if you have never – I’ll send you a tester.
I’ve recently been wearing John Varvatos & Bulgari Pour Homme Soir (love the black tea note in this). I think it just boils down to your own personal skin chemistry & style. I don’t really wear heavy florals, but many light florals are too light. One of my favorite tricks is to layer – the Armani Prive Jasmine & Rose frags are lovely but lack depth on me, the Varvatos adds a nice under-pining to them. Plus I love citrus & vetyver notes, & “masculines” are often the best place to find these.
That’s interesting–layering a feminine over a masculine is a great idea!
Bulgari Black is the perfect example of a fragrance marketed toward men that is perfect no matter what your gender.
I often layer a good old, plain musk over a feminine.
Yup, especially nice is when you wear something that tends toward the soliflore end of the spectrum during the day and then sultry it up a bit for evening with some nice musk .
Good plan!
Sounds nice.
THANK YOU FOR THIS ARTICLE! I honestly think everyone should just wear whatever they wanted, regardless of marketing. Because I’m quite big on lasting power, I tend to veer over to EDPs more and more. I will always and forever love Sarah Jessica Parker’s Lovely – wear it often. Also, Tom Ford’s Black Orchid (and Voile de Fleur) and White Patchouli. Laura Biagiotti’s Roma is one of the most incredible perfumes I’ve ever encountered – a firm favourite. I guess I’m proof that it could easily be adopted by a man. There are many more! Will have a think and share it later.
Terrific! I’d love to smell Black Orchid on a man, especially. The musk in Lovely would be so great on a guy, too.
Just the other day I saw Black Orchid listed in a magazine as a perfect gift for Father’s Day! A very happy thought, I must admit. Apparently Tom Ford himself wears it often.
I’m glad to hear that!
Winners in Montreal had a couple of small bottles of Black Orchid for $30…
Nice!
I can’t say I’m completely immune to the divide between masculine and feminine scents, and I can’t bring myself to wear really florally florals (not that I probably would anyway), but I mostly don’t care what the marketer says: if I like it, and if it smells good on me, I will wear it. Probably half of what I own is from the women’s side of the aisle: most of the really good chypres and orientals are marketed to women, but why should they have all the fun? Just off the top of my head, Knowing, Coup de Fouet, Midnight Poison, Tom Ford Black Orchid, L Lempicka, and any number of vanillic CSP scents are in my regular rotation.
Just today before showering I wore Guerlain Terracotta Voile D’Ete, which is a women’s scent but reads as a stripped-down version of Old Spice, and later in the day I put on some Dior Fahrenheit 32, which is a men’s scent that smells mostly of orange blossom.
Living proof of the benefits of spritzing across the aisle! Coup de Fouet, and Poivre, too, would be perfect on a guy, I’d think.
Thank you for a thoughtful article! I for one am a woman who dislikes some women’s perfumes as too “girly”; most gardenia/jasmine types read “Scarlett O’Hara” to me.
Whoops, hit the button too fast. I adore Coup de fouet and Poivre both for me and for a guy because they are a long way from the girly side.
I can understand completely where you’re coming from, both with the Carons and the big florals.
Huh… maybe that’s why I like Voile d’Ete. My dad used to wear Old Spice, so it’s out of the question for me to wear (although I keep hearing about women borrowing it) but I do enjoy the scent.
Makes sense to me! My dad uses Old Spice soap sometimes, so I love the scent.
My dad also uses Old Spice… but that didn’t stop me from getting a bottle of my own! It’s on heavy rotation with all my feminines. I also really like Eau Sauvage- there’s something very reassuring about it.
I *loved* this and couldn’t agree with you more.
For my part, as a man, I get WAY more compliments when I wear JPG Classique eau de toilette than any of the men’s fragrances I own.
I think there’s something terrific about the unexpected, too–about thinking since you’re next to a man that he’s going to smell like Brut, and then getting something more gentle. I love that.
Great article, Angela, on one of my favorite mulling-over topics. My world is peopled by folks traveling the gender spectrum pretty freely, so it’s often on my mind.
Thinking about language…isn’t “unisex” one of the most unsexy words you’ve ever heard? To me it conjures up white underwear and prison uniforms. On the other hand, a lovely Nordstrom’s SA once told me he loved a lot of the Hermes line because “they are for sharing.” So much better…
You are right on about “unisex”. Blecch. “For sharing”, on the other hand, is wonderful! I’ll start using it from now on.
Sweetlife, I like the “shared” terminology! The majority of my favorites seem to fall in this category. And I agree with others who say we should just mix ’em up, anyway. Fragrances I wear that are marketed to men? Timbuktu, Bulgari Black, and Grey Flannel. I have a lot more to discover, I suspect!
P.S. to Angela. I love your choice of graphics for this article!
Robin chooses the images for my posts. Aren’t they great? I always look forward to seeing what she comes up with.
“sharing scents” that is perfect! I think most women don’t hesitate to stride right into the mens fragrance area and start testing away. But the perfume marketers are losing a large slice of the perfume spending pie by using gender labels—any change takes time for people to adjust their thinking but if there were no more gender classifications, and SAs were educated(and helpful) enough to be able to direct customers to notes they like rather than just a ‘guy frag.” or a “girl frag.” and all the perfumes were mixed in together–well that would just be “perfumtopia” !!
oops lost a sentence in there— it’s the male spending that they lose because men are so much less likely to stride into the women’s perfumes….but I think you all understood what I was getting at.
Yes, I know just what you mean. Maybe it would take a little while for people to get used to how the fragrances are arranged, but I’d think it would be beneficial for everyone.
I love this topic, Angela! Cause I love men’s scents, and have full bottles of several. I have just bought (and love) Monsieur de Givenchy (I tried to get the old bottle but beautyencounter sent me the new mythiques version, and I think I’m gonna keep it), and I’ve got Guerlain Vetiver, Guerlain L’Instant PH, and Grey Flannel. I aaaaalmost bought a bottle of Guerlain’s Mouchoir de Monsieur, but finally decided I liked Dior’s Eau Fraiche better (they’re a bit similar). There are probably more that I’m forgetting about.
Also, sorry, but on a website functionality note: what’s the deal with signing in? Does anyone else have trouble? I’ve just had to try signing in about a dozen times (with the correct password, I swear) before the Post a Comment box would come up for me. I’m on newest Firefox on a PC right now. If anyone has a tip (this often happens to me on this website) let me know!
I usually have to click refresh before it says I’m signed in. idk if anyone else has to do this.
Oh, thank you, K! I will try that next time.
Thanks for the hint!
I noticed that I had a couple of episodes this morning with comments, too–once it kicked me off, and once a comment popped into an unexpected place. But it seems o.k., now.
That happens to me all the time, even with internet explorer – I just thought it was brain rot or lazy typing. Now I’m glad to know I’m not insane!
Hm, do you sign in from more than one computer? I had a lot of trouble once at home, then realized I’d signed in at work, and not signed out. That could have been a coincidence though; I’ve occasionally had trouble since then, but never again so that it took more than 2-3 tries.
I have the same trouble occasionally — usually when I’m frantically trying to enter a giveaway! I think if I sign in, go to another site, then come back to NST it usually works; I’ll try hitting “refresh” next time.
My fav fem is Tom Ford Black Orchid. Others in my rotation include Lolita Lempicka, Hermes Eau des Marveilles,Frederic Malle Carnal Flower, Lancome Magnifique.
Eau des Merveilles is great for anyone, and although I think a lot of men would be scared off by Carnal Flower, I love it that you wear it! I wish I could smell it on you.
I would love to smell Carnal Flower on a man! Somebody posted once about a big tough black guy totally pulling off Fracas and I have wanted to smell a big floral on a guy ever since!
I agree–I think Carnal Flower or Fracas on the right man would be genius.
Oooooh, yes! Traditionally femme perfume on a really manly dude would be exciting.
This is a really interesting topic. I agree with you that masculine-feminine is on a continuum. I had a sales associate once tell me rather gravely that vetiver was masculine (I think she was trying to steer me in the direction of buying something more “feminine.”)
I do wear and love Fou d’Absinthe, although I’ve had people comment when I’m wearing it that it smells “masculine.”
Vetiver is masculine? That’s a good one.
Fou d’Absinthe definitely has a bite to it, but that doesn’t necessarily make it masculine, in my mind. Maybe some people see “soft” as feminine and “assertive” as masculine.
Wonderful topic Angela.
My fave masculine is Hermes Concentre d’Orange Verte but I’ve recently developed a rather torrid relationship with CdG Zagorsk. But I also love feminines like L’artisan Drole de Rose….depends on the day…
And I agree: all the perfume should be at one location within a store and classifying as masc. or fem. is just a goofy practice and should be eliminated.
Zagorsk is a good one, and so is Concentre d’Orange Verte, especially in the heat. How can anyone really say either of those is particularly masculine or feminine? They’re both so nice for anyone.
I could not agree more. I much prefer the “feminine” side of the aisle because I am more of a romantic. I also am addicted to tuberose and anything that showcases the flower is in my rotation. I live in No. 5 and practically every floral Chanel and Guerlain have produced…and well, there are just too many vintages that I covet to limit myself to masculines, though I certainly love them too.
And I bet you get compliments all the time on how you smell!
What a timely post! I’m wearing Caron Pour un Homme today, which is probably the least stereotypically-manly masculine fragrance of all. There is lavender, yes, but it’s soft rather than bracing, and it’s paired with vanilla – a note that most would probably place in the “For Girls Only!* column.
Perfect! Patou Moment Supreme is another lavender that I love. It’s so funny how lavender has taken on masculine connotations.
I think you nailed it with “connotation”–maybe it is here more than anywhere else in perfumery that our earlier perceptions of a scent influence our responses to it. Something is masculine because we’ve always smelled it on a man, or feminine because we’ve always smelled it on a woman. “Crossing the counter” might help to dispel that and create new connotations.
And it’s so cultural, too. With different experiences and expectations we’d probably experience the fragrances differently, too.
I’m sure you’re right about our perceptions being culturally influenced. I find that lavender+coumarin in fragrance frequently makes me say, “Shaving cream!” and cross it off my list. Would I do that if shaving cream wasn’t such a masculine smell to me? Probably not. Shaving cream smells nice.
Good point. Similarly some things smell like detergent to me, but they might not to someone in a country where detergent doesn’t smell like it does here.
If you want me to appreciate vanilla put it in anything labelled as “men’s fragrance” – Caron pour un Homme, Rochas Man and Egoïste are three big faves of mine! And I adore Guerlain Vetiver and Habit Rouge. I firmly believe that fragrance is not about gender, it is about personality.
Yes, definitely more about personality than about gender. And I’m glad to see another Egoist fan!
I remember wearing Egoist as a teenager, when it first came out. Should check it out again.
It’s absolutely worth checking out, I think.
My fav masculine is Chanel Pour Monsieur, which I actually like more than No 19. And before it was discontinued, the Balenciaga for men, that my Dad wore – I loved it! I think the most masculine fragrance I have now is the Fendi fragrance for women that is so strong and rich with spices, cumin, leathers, etc – now it would absolutely be marketed as a masculine. I also think that Lancome’s Magie Noir and Sikkim would be excellent masculines. I like very much the Tauer L’Air du Desert Marocain which I think is unisex. Also many many colognes are unisex for sure. My fav new fragrance that if I smelled on a man would absolutely make me melt is the new Tabac Aurea from Sonoma Scent Studio which is just gorgeous unisex fragrance.
Oh, and I totally forgot Guerlain Habit Rouge which is one of my fav masculines – I almost like it better than Shalimar.
They all sound so nice! It’s sad to think of not wearing any of them. Sometimes I almost think I like the Chanel masculines better than the feminines–I adore Egoiste.
I agree…except for my fav Coco, which could be worn by the right man too I think. If the original No 19 and Cristalle were launched today, they would almost definitely be masculines b/c of the civet-leather thing. Most of the older chypres would never had made the cut these days with so much syrup and cotton candy floating around! — as noted around here with Mitsouko. Even Diorella would be in a suit these days!
That’s such an interesting observation! Something bad seems to have happened to No. 19 these days, I’ve noticed. it seems like spicy and more powdery. I’m hoping I’m wrong…
I mean “less spicy, more powdery”.
Angela – with all due respect – I actually prefer the reformulated version of No 19…..here come the tomatoes…which IS more powdery and floral with that lovely galbanum and iris! I completely respect the originals though, but there is something in 19 & Cristalle that smells like sour leather/meat on me when I test them! Gulp.
Good! There will be less competition, then, when I try to land a bottle of the old stuff…
I might fight you for the vintage No. 19! I smelled that one early on in my sniffage career, and I didn’t know there was a leather note in it, but when I found my nose glued to my wrist in the drydown, I realized I loved it. The new is nice, I guess (and I love galbanum and florals) – but doesn’t have the moxie of the old stuff.
(Just scored a small bottle of No. 5 extrait for nottalotta dough on the ‘bay, by the way. Hope it’s real. It was purportedly found at an estate sale, in slightly-worn double boxes and sealed, and the seller’s other items included vintage jewelry and what I think of as yard sale clothes. I may have gotten snookered, though. I bought a small bottle of “vintage No. 19 edt” recently, and it was NOT the vintage stuff.)
I’ll cross my fingers for you that it’s all genuine.
Yep, my thoughts exactly! I haven’t smelled the reformulation, but I love the old stuff. I will try to be open-minded….
Ann S,
I do like Habit Rouge better than Shalimar. It’s much more…discreet.
I think it’s less recognizable, too.
Hi Charlotte – sometimes Shalimar is just too sweet for me. I love that dry labdanum in the base of HR that just lasts forever and ever.
I’m curious: How does a place like Barneys handle it when a guy walks up to the Malle counter and doesn’t know exactly what he’s in the market for but wants to “try some new scents”? Are the SAs comfortable picking from all over the range?
I think I remember someone saying that either Mr. Malle or Mr. Lutens seemed very “restrictive” in terms of certain fragrances being strictly “female” or “male” and wasn’t fond of the whole unisex thing. Not sure how true that is, but I wonder how the respective SAs are trained to present the line.
I would imagine that they should entertain your desire to shop and test – you could just as easily be buying for yourself as for a woman in your life, etc. It used to be a long time ago that a woman did not buy fragrance for herself- but it was picked out for her by her husband, etc, so men would sniff and purchase, etc. I would think these days especially any SA would want to make a sale regardless of gender.
I’d hope so, too.
That’s such a good question. Maybe someone who works there will chime in with an answer!
What do people think of sweet fruit notes? Most of the female celebrity perfumes and some designer ones as well (Burberry The Beat for women is what I’m thinking of) around have ultra sweet fruity top notes that I’ve never smelt in male-marketed fragrances before.
I wear Nasomatto’s China White that I think is marketed as unisex (or, for sharing) but definitely has a feminine edge with its powdery florals. My other favourite is Andy Warhol Silver Factory that for me is really balanced, it has a floral sweetness that I think is feminine, but also a colder, more synthetic feel to it (that I’ve read lots of people describe as metallic).
One perfume of mine my girlfriend loves is Chanel Egoiste.
I’m not sure about sweet fruit notes. They sound more teen than masculine or feminine, but who knows? As for Silver Factory, it straddles the gender line perfectly, I think. And I love Egoiste, too!
Balkis might be a good fruity for a man to try. Ya never know.
Oh yeah, I almost bought a used bottle of Balkis… and I still may come winter. It is a bit sweet though. There’s other fruity stuff I like, and I don’t think it smells like “too much” on a guy: Mure et Musc, Calyx, Ananas Fizz, Pulp, CdG Rhubarb, and definitely some fruity chypres like the new MDCIs.
Terrific suggestions, all of them.
I am a pretty masculine fella and in the past, I’ve worn Prescriptives Calyx, Chanel’s Bois des Iles, Kenzo’s L’eau Par Kenzo (“women’s version”), and Child. Simply put, I’m comfortable in my own skin, so I wear whatever the heck I want to wear.
Here’s my general rule of thumb? Do I like it? Does it smell good?
I think I’d crossed over, so to speak, because by and large the men’s fragrance selection is full of faceless clones. Can anyone really tell the difference between them with all the ‘fresh’, ‘ozone’ ‘marine’ accords?
No? Me either.
I share your rule of thumb completely! Would I wear a feminine fragrance if it didn’t suit me? Probably not. But I’d much rather explore that side of perfumery. It’s just more intriguing than most concoctions for men. Everyone should just wear everything – most men are missing out.
And, yes, ‘marine’ and ‘ozone’ and ‘fresh’…I can’t figure it out. All the same to me. And terribly boring.
Perfect attitude.
Bois des Iles! Yes! I like your approach.
Any man wearing Bois des Iles is very well appointed in my book!!
Does a scent registers in our brains as masculine or feminine depending on which sex is wearing it? For example, if a man wore a rose-dominant fragrance, would we think that he smelled feminine, or would we think “That guy smells good!” (assuming we like rose)? Same with a woman wearing Eau Sauvage, as Angela mentioned – would we think “masculine” or “chic”? IMO the rigid guidelines are arbitrary and created by advertising. I’d bet that a lot of guys (at least non-perfumistos) are wearing fragrances they don’t even like, just because they are advertised as masculines, and they assume guys are just supposed to smell like marine, ozone, metal, etc. I certainly don’t like any of the fragrances I’ve smelled men wearing. I’d love to smell things like Mitsouko, Jicky, and Azuree on a man.
It makes sense that context would matter. Anything Audrey Hepburn wore probably smelled feminine. Put L’Interdit on Jesse Ventura, and it’s a whole different story.
Great topic!
I was seriously thrilled when I went into my main downtown Nordstrom Fine Fragrance department and it was swarming with testers from the men’s department. The SA was very enthusiastic about them.
There is a certain note that makes me feel a little bit too “guy” but I haven’t figured out what it is. Might be the ozone. But there are definitely some men’s frags that I love or am coming to love – Stetson, Terre d’Hermes, Bulgari Black, for starters. I wander into the men’s department as much as the women’s these days, and none of the SA’s have been the least nonplussed about it. If there ever is one, they’ll hear about it.
My big Bloomie’s has all of the fragrances in one section, pretty much. There are separate counters, but they all kind of go together.
I’m glad they had the testers mixed together–it makes so much sense to me. Terre d’Hermes is another great one anyone could wear.
I recently discovered that the synth oakmoss Evernyl smells very masculine to me and I think is one of the culprits for generic masculine smelling fragrances.
Maybe – it seems to be in the base, so after the initial rush of loving it, it becomes kind of “generic men’s cologne” – I think Kenneth Cole Black and The One for men did that on me.
I wonder if we’ll be smelling more of that to come.
Hmm, that’s interesting. I’ve never smelled that in isolation.
A lovely fragrance friend sent me samples of the synthetic Evernyl and then some of the low antranol oakmoss (the low allergin oakmoss). Evernyl smells like every standard masculine product from deoderants to standard issue fragrances. The low atranol oakmoss keeps some lovely woody green oakmoss notes that maintain some relation to the great natural stuff.
Very interesting–and educational, too.
Great article! I love me some masculine scents too… Egoiste, Habit Rouge, Fou d’Absinthe, Royal Scottish Lavender. My sleeper fav among masculines is Montgomery Taylor’s Paratus… it’s the next best thing to having a gin and tonic, but it’s kinda hard to find. Aedes is the only place I know of that sells it online.
Great recommendations! I haven’t tried Paratus, but it sounds like I’d really love it.
What a wonderful post! Joining the throngs to say I think they’re idiots for separating the sales areas (they are at my Nordstrom too) if for no other reason than women might be more likely to browse for something for their guys while they’re there…. granted, I’m hardly a typical consumer, but I have developed a particular fondness for fragrance cross-dressing 😉 Men mostly smell amazing in things like Fracas, or roses, and women smell wonderful in Eau Sauvage and Terre d’Hermes.
Fragrance cross-dressing- I love it! And now I have more courage to wear my sample of Fracas out and about 😉 Thanks, March!
It’s a great term, isn’t it?
You go, Jared! Wear that Fracas. It’s in the service of all mankind (and womankind.) Every young man presented with a broader spectrum of choice will lead to the eventual extermination of Chocolate Axe.
Yes! I’m with you all the way on that one.
M, I agree. Part of the fun is the contrast, the messing around with expectations.
So true, I wear hubby’s Terre d Hermes all the time.
What a beautiful article! Thanks for writing it. I love Lalique Encre Noir, Gucci Homme, and FM Vetiver Extraordinaire, and I don’t care who it’s marketed for. On that note, I found Odori Iris in the men’s section……but why??
You sure like yourself some vetiver! I haven’t tried Odori Iris yet.
I am so in love with Timbuktu – it’s actually really weird when I’m reminded that it’s primarily marketed as a masculine. It feels really feminine to me. L’air du Desert Marocain as well – it’s marketed as ‘unisex’, but it feels super feminine whenever I wear it. Those are my two favourite perfumes, anyway – the ‘go-to’ scents when I’m going out and want to feel incredibly sexy and confident. I’ve certainly never had anybody come up and say “Are you wearing men’s perfume?” ;p
Timbuktu and L’Air are both practically iconic and supersede gender! At least, that’s what I think.
Given Timbuktu’s backstory, I find it very odd that it’s marketed primarily to men…and in fact, had no idea, lol. Can’t say I find it terribly masculine myself, but they can call it what they like…I’ll still wear it. 🙂
L’Artisan is pretty good about presenting its fragrances without attaching gender labels, it seems, so I never really thought about Timbuktu as marketed toward one sex or another.
Aren’t the Heeley frags marketed to men? One of my fav winter scents is Cuir Plein Fleur. I also really like Dior Dune, which when I wear, I often get comments that it smells “masculine” – whatever that means. . . and to the comment re “unisex” needing to be replaced with “shared” – I so agree. I’ve yet to meet a human who is unisex, yet alone a frag.
speaking of Heeley…I love their Figuier…and I think fig is usually marketed for men (or shared at the very least) but I’m growing to love fig scents…..it was a decision of monumental proportions to decide between Philosykos and Heeley Figuier…..a real nail biter.
Premier Figuier is nice, too. I’m sure you’ll make the right choice, whatever it is!
Yes, “shared” is definitely the way to go. Funny though, I never thought of Dune as particularly masculine.
My sister wore Dune. I wouldn’t call it particularly girly, but I think it was introduced around the era of cKOne, whose ad campaign made a big deal about it being unisex — and I think Dune’s shareable.
Unfortunately, I love masculine fragrances but my husband hates them. Dune was one of those he vetoed as “manly” smelling, so up for swap. However, when I l first let him smell Bulgari Black on me I asked him does that smell masculine and he said, “no, absolutely not.” Weird.
That’s funny! Maybe the musk “femme-d” it up enough for him.
Wonderful article and topic! I love florals, but I regularly wear Guerlain Vetiver, Monsieur de Givenchy, Monsieur Balmain, Hermes Equipage, Creed Green Irish Tweed and one of my absolute faves – Terre d’Hermes … it seems only logical and right that everybody just wears what they think smells good, and for that reason they shouldn’t have fragrance counters “segregated” by sex, although I do know that some men are very intimidated by the proximity of the makeup counters as opposed to women’s perfumes (sometimes I am too!)! Can’t wait to see what you think of Bel Ami, it’s another one on my To Try list!
It’s true, there are so many lovely, fresh scents marketed to men but great for anyone.
I already know I need me some Bel Ami. I just need to salt away the dollars for a little while, and a bottle will be mine.
Like Chandler Burr, I don’t believe fragrance molecules have gender. I wear what I like. Drop over at Basenotes to see my wardrobe.
Like the Saudi princes, Une Rose is one of my HG fragrances along with Rose de Nuit. Rose is my favorite note, even if my wife and son don’t always appreciate it 😉
Frankly, from my experience, most people don’t even notice the difference between “masculine” and “feminine”. They either like fragrance or they don’t.
That’s so interesting that people don’t seem to register whether your fragrances are masculine or feminine, but that they like them or not.
Rose de Nuit? Yes! How about Sa Majeste la Rose?
So many scents turn too sweet on me, so I’ve been gravitating more and more toward the “shared”/men’s side… Terre d’Hermes, Equipage, L’Air du Desert Marocain, MPG Eau pour le Jeune Homme, Bois d’Encens, FM Bigarade, Baume du Doge, etc.
I agree that it’s easier for a woman to cross over; Dietrich and Hepburn could wear pants, but you never saw Bogart and Cooper in skirts! And even if the fragrance counters were “integrated,” some lines are still at the makeup counters (Estee Lauder, Lancome, etc.).
But for any man who’s chary of smelling too girly, I’ll note that the best-smelling men I’ve ever known have all worn florals. Not only did they smell great, but the element of unexpectedness and the sheer confidence in themselves that they conveyed by wearing such fragrances was devastatingly sexy.
I love men in skirts! If you have ever seen the pics of Gerard Butler in that pink cashmere sweater and leather kilt – swoon. I think if they are marketed as “kilts”, more men might wear a skirt.
Sure! I’ve seen photos of “utili-skirts” or something like that.
I find skirts immeasurably more comfortable than pants. Poor guys who have to wear trousers. I think we’re coming around to a time when men can more confidently wear florals, though.
I have that problem with the sweet, especially during the summer. I just don’t like vanilla in 98 degree weather. Anyway, I’ve been wearing White Linen original lately and I think it’s so soapy/dry it can easily be “shared” one.
Also, I like Grey Flannel.
So many people have mentioned Grey Flannel, and it’s been so long since I’ve tried it.
Ah, Angela, always such a fascinating and provoking topic! The bulk of my shopping is done via the internet so I never have to deal with SA’s. I would avoid as much as possible.
I haven’t really thought as much about women wearing men’s fragrances (though I think about me wearing women’s all the time), but now that I do, that would be great! I would love to smell a woman wearing Guerlain’s Vetiver! Masculine and feminine seem to be products of the times and times change. I have so many “old” fragrances in my arsenal that were once for women but which men now seem to be able to wear. I am reminded of Luca Turin’s review in The Guide for Arpege- it fits this topic perfectly.
I just smelled Bandit for the first time a few days ago, and I keep thinking that Joan Crawford wore it. As I was smelling it in it’s glorious chypre-ness, I thought how GREAT a woman would smell wearing this, and I lamented the direction of perfumery. However, I celebrated an addition to my own collection 🙂
I thought Bandit was originally marketed to women! But it’s so perfect for either sex, it really is. I’m going to wear some Bandit as soon as what I have on now wears off, in fact.
Oh yeah, I know it was marketed to women originally. I guess what I meant was that women’s fragrances had so much more strength and tenacity back then!
Good point. They had so much personality, too.
A good friend of mine in college (female) wore Guerlain’s Vetiver. She was from the Caribbean and was beautiful, very feminine, as well as very strong and disciplined. The perfume suited her perfectly. I tried Vetiver a few times, but could never quite pull it off; maybe I could nowadays.
Your friend sounds like she had a lot of style!
I was happy to see my local Nordstrom’s in San Diego (Fashion Valley mall) has moved the men’s fragrance counter right next to the women’s counter. I think they’ve caught onto the trend.
Hurray! Good move.
You’d think it would be more efficient in terms of staffing as well, no?
Absolutely!
That’s funny, I think I have never seen man’s and women’s fragrances seperate departments!
Also, I am reminded of the phrase, “A thing of beauty is a joy forever.” Whether a fragrance is made for men or women, if it’s beautiful (and they are), it inspires joy, so let us all wear what brings us joy!
Perfect. And might I paraphrase, “A bottle of Joy is a joy forever” too. The right man could wear Joy well, too.
Here, here! Even “Joy”—maketed exclusively as a totally feminine scent—has been perfect on some of the men I’ve known. On their skin, it was nearly impossible to imagine that the scent wasn’t designed for men.
I need to meet a few men like that!
LOL I guess I need to investigate Joy! Sounds like a challenge: pull off wearing Joy as a man! That, or No. 5.
Definitely. Joy in parfum, with its dark underpinnings, would be divine.
You know, I always laugh when I read hard-core “fragrance studies” that suggest men are only attracted to certain scents and women are attracted to others and, to paraphrase “that is that!” I wonder how often factors, like, initial sexual experiences and associated body products like deodorant and soap, are considered. When you’re in your mid-late teens and not yet independent (some entering sexual territory earlier, some later), who’s often buying your personal products? Mom—maybe you’ve picked out some yourself, but more often than not, you’re wearing a “buy-one-get-one-free” type option or something a parent or guardian picked up. Also, you might smell your partner during an amorous encounter, but if you’re also wearing a highly fragranced product, it’s likely you smell that scent as intensely–perhaps, even more so–than that of your partner.
This is a case of what came first; attraction or body product associations? This is why some people associate “L’Heure Bleue” or “Chanel No. 5” with public restroom soap; things are marketed based on popularity; “popularity” must figure in many circumstantial factors. One of my best female friends wore “Old Spice” for years because she loved it’s rosy-spicey tartness; I think it was even mentioned on here before, but “Old Spice” was originally intended (designed) for a female audience but later marketed to men based on its popularity within that target group.
Subtle tweaks in body chemistry make such a difference and there’s nothing more exciting than encountering a gender-bender option on a potential “mate”. Androgyny can be highly alluring and fragrance is great experimentation ground for people nervous about appearing too fashionably contrite or stylized; yet, still wanting to project a more provocative idea of attractiveness. The two options I often find myself going back to, depending on two camps of mood (#1 inspires: Energy, exuberance, inquisitiveness/ #2 inspires: Reservation, reflection, solitude) are “Bois de Paradis” and “Gris Clair”. Both are woodsy, outdoorsy potions. “Bois de Paradis” reads like roses, pine, salt and woodfire on me; “Gris Clair” is a blend that could almost be that of suede, leather, some kind of herbal liquor and dried lavender. Both could easily be considered totally male in a blind sniff test; on my skin, they’ve been read as highly feminine.
Scent associations owe much to what men and women have traditionally done and the residual scents lingering from such activities; metallics, turpentines, oceanics and grasses could be connected to the scents left on factory workers, sailors/fishermen or farmers. Gourmandes and florals could obviously be associated with those who cook, pick flowers and clean, as could also citruses. Cherry-woods and benzoin could be associated with boats, libraries and cigars, but also elementary school classrooms and hospitals—two areas where women have traditionally worked as teachers and nurses. Something like “Luctor et Emergo’s People of the Labyrinths” has unisex appeal because it could be associated with both traditionally masculine and feminine roles. While, quite obviously, women haven’t always chosen traditionally femme occupations nor have men chosen only traditionally masculine ones, other associations might be made by people as a result of contrasting ideas of feminine and masculine roles; a man who grew up smelling welding smoke off his mom, might link metallics and smokes with “feminine”, while a chef dad coming home smelling of chocolate, sugar and nuts might smell “masculine”. Flashbulb memories, the olfactive ambience of childhood routines or intense events tailored strongly by scent, all allow for lifetime scent associations–and definitions. You could trace the historical activities of entire cultures based upon present scent associations, as defined by specific groups of people.
A fascinating essay of a comment! Of course we’ll associate qualities with fragrance depending on our experiences: that’s why incense is spiritual or milky scents are comforting. I find it interesting to think about what smells feminine or masculine, though, and the ideas you put forth here are fascinating to think about.
Sorry! Those things never seem so affected and long-winded BEFORE I post them. Great topic, anyhow—fragrance, at least, in the U.S., is one of those cultural areas where gender definitions have now become so specific, that entire essences have been relegated to only one side or the other. Guys can’t have olfactive memories tied to roses as much as women can?
I like the long, thoughtful comment! No need to apologize.
Of course, I just remembered that Kevin threw his hat in very eloquently on this subject in the article titled “Mitsouko Pour Homme.” I’d love to see an experiment with plain, unlabeled bottles where both genders could rank what fragrances appeal to them based on fragrance alone.
Somehow, though, I do feel this is a bit less of a problem in “luxury” department stores and boutiques versus the typical Macy’s or drugstore perfume counter. However, even in Saks, I’m a little reluctant to sidle up to the women’s Chanel counter and ask for a spritz of Bois des Iles under the withering glare of all the ladies in white lab coats or black uniforms. Maybe I just need to be more confident. HA!
I don’t know, I can see how it could be rough. As another commenter said above, it’s probably easier for women to cruise the men’s department than the other way around. Still, if enough men asked to smell Bois des Iles, that could all change. Maybe we should do a Meetup group at Saks!
yes! we arrive en masse, strength in numbers, HUZ-ZAH!
or perhaps, slightly less militant for a Saks run…
I don’t think that’s a gender thing – some of those women terrify me. lol – so probably IS more of a confidence issue!
I don’t think some of them are trying to have attitude, but I shrink back when they come toward me saying “May I HELP you with something?” (“no, just sniffing the No. 5, thanks”). However, when they do throw attitude, it’s always worth remembering that line in your head: “Lose the attitude, you just work in a shop.” They’d probably wonder why the hell I’m laughing so hard.
You’d think they’d want to be extra friendly, after all, it’s their commission…
HA! I can’t imagine you being intimidated by those old battleaxes! You don’t have a supercilious old gramma lurking somewhere that they remind you of?
I fix those types fast by turning on the super friendly, down home Southern charm; like they are my favorite old aunty and we’ve shared plenty of confidences…..either it brings out their ‘inner friendly” or completely nonplusses them so they give me what I want and scurry away.
It’s not the old battleaxes that intimidate me – I love them! It’s those just-mature-enough ladies with the “What’s an old bag like you with an obviously empty wallet doing here?” attitude that drive me nuts. I prefer it when they leave me alone. Until I need some help and can’t get it.
Battleaxes – no problem! What bothers me are the young gals who aren’t necessarily young enough to be my daughers, but who take the liberty to call me “honey”. It is not cute.
The last time a SA came over and asked a very pointed and slightly annoyed “May I HELP you?” I simply placed my Amex card on the counter and with my best smile replyed: “IF I need you, I will be sure to let you know!”
How are we expected to buy unless they actually let us near the stuff?
I bet they helped you then!
You know Joe, for some months I’m sort of ‘over it’, this inhibition. I’ll just tell’em that I’m INTERESTED IN SCENTS. Basta. And I get that as well, that snobbish thought about the ‘simple’ SA (and I think to myself: I’m doing bloody aggademmick research and you signal me I’m not supposed to wear this stuff on my well-read skin?!)… but, hey, we all know they often don’t have a clue! I mean, in Galleries Lafayette a girl tried to tell me Arpège pour Homme was the original, very old Lanvin fragrance for men and Lanvin L’Homme was new, I just wanted to chat a little but even that was impossible! Things like this happen all the time. Recently a lady double my age corrected me, ‘No no, Eau Sauvage was modelled after Diorella, years later’. I’ve just become arrogant (though so far I aways stayed polite ;)) and try to ignore the shop around me when holding both Diorella & Dioresscence in my two hands to compare them…
I’m so often ignored at the counters at the fancy places. I probably don’t look like I have the dollars to be worth helping. On the other hand, sometimes the SAs are super helpful.
Well, I should mention that I don’t go anyplace too fancy, it would require too much effort. (that’s why I love the internet!)
The internet is so great for finding deals, too.
Angela, the trick is to pretend you have money. Nowadays it’s not easy for shops to recognise wealthy customers. If ripped jeans and plain Ts are in fashion, you can look like a cowboy 1895 and get into the best clubs. It’s the attitude, self-confidence and eb careful not to knock anything over with your big carrier bag ; ) seriously!
I’ll have to stuff my wallet with Monopoly money and pretend!
Yeah, I wanna smell all you guys who wear Mitsouko. She hates me, so I can’t really appreciate her on my skin. I can imagine it smells great on you, though. (Joe, didn’t you say somewhere that you sleep in Mitsouko?)
lol –yes I remember he said he spritzes it on his night shirt sometimes. I was glad to know I wasn’t one the only ones going around spritzing the night shirt!
Yea, I wear it on the t-shirt to bed now and then. I actually haven’t given Mitsy a full “test drive” in public (daytime or evening) thus far. It’s a clandestine thing we have going; I’m afraid sometimes what people might think if we appeared on the town… TOGETHER.
HA! I so feel with you… I used to be with L’Heure Bleue for a while (the time a little vial lasted), she can be really difficult – so conspicuous on the street! You can be glad you love peaceable Mitsouko! (I admit though, we haven’t been introduce properly)
Ohhh, I love men’s colognes, some faves are: Dune for men, Givenchy Monseur, and Eau Savage, Guerlain Coriolan, Hermes Terre d’Hermes. My Daim Blonde smells great on my husband, as does Voleur de Roses.
Nice! The shared perfume collection is definitely the way to go.
Great article! I love and wear a number of “men’s” and unisex fragrances myself, and totally agree that people who limit themselves to only their gender’s counter are missing out.
My favorites from the men’s section are Bulgari Black, Ralph Lauren Polo Double Black, Christian Dior Higher, and Kenneth Cole Black. And the old drugstore standby Raw Vanilla. Looking at that list, there are lots of “Blacks”. Is there some common ingredient among those? Possibly vanilla, which is one of my favorite scent ingredients.
I read somewhere that Bulgari Black is Angelina Jolie’s favorite. How much more woman can you get than that?
L’Instant for men is a wonderful women’s fragrance. I far prefer it to the women’s L’Instant.
You’re right about L’Artisan, they do have it right not gender identifying their fragrances. Navigar is great on a man or woman as is Fou D’Absinthe (their list is so long actually for unisex fragrances)
And Goutal has many that are lovely unisex as well, Hadrien, Mandrigore, Duel, Sables, etc.
I like L’Instant for men a lot better, too. Have you tried the Intense version? It’s really great.
(Interesting that I was testing Caron’s Le Troisieme Homme today, even before seeing the post. Verdict: liked the top notes, really liked the floral heart, drydown too much Recently Shaved Guy for me to enjoy.)
Am I the only woman commenting today that feels more comfortable in quote-FEMININE-unquote scents? There are a few, a very few masculines that I can wear, but it’s a stretch for me and I never feel completely happy in them. I like Eau Sauvage, but I have to be in the mood for it. I like Stetson Rich Suede as well, although that one doesn’t seem nearly as masculine as ES. I’m not very bothered with the ozone notes (I was in perfume-retreat and living in the back-of-beyond when those were new and hot, and I didn’t get nose overload on them the way everybody else did). I am very bothered by “shaving cream accord” – and there seems to be a lot of that out there. As far as I can tell, it’s lavender+coumarin, and while it actually smells really nice, it screams, “Manly facial hair!” to me.
I do far better with unisex (my new word for that is shareable) fragrances, but I’ll be honest and comment that I don’t wear many of those, either.
I do keep running across scents in my testing* that I think would smell fabulous on a guy. Shaal Nur, Odalisque, Magie Noire — all of those seem shareable to me. (Dunno, though, maybe SN and Odalisque are not specifically marketed as feminines.)
*Since I still live in the back of beyond with very little access to perfume counters, I have to order or swap samples. Perhaps if I was able to sniff more masculines, I’d find more I like – it’s just that there are soooooo many girly-wirly things out there that I think I’d like, and since I’m choosing what to sample based on the very vague list of notes, I probably miss a lot of great stuff.
I’ll also add (wow, I’m talking a lot…) that I have not yet found a perfume too feminine. I’ve smelled some that seemed too young or naive, too sweet or syrupy, or too ditzy-fruity, but none seem too girly for my taste. My favorites tend to have woody notes, incense, green notes, spicy notes, and/or low-cal vanilla – but nearly all of them read pretty floral.
Nope, you’re not the only one who isn’t quite comfortable as a woman wearing a masculine scent. I like a lot of the classic elements of masculine scents–citrus, lavender, some oakmoss–but a lot of men’s scents I’ve tried have been put together to say “aftershave”, not “scent”, and I can’t really get into wearing them. They raise expectations in my mind as being worn by men. Maybe the men’s fragrances I’ve tried have simply not been that groundbreaking; they’ve just echoed standard aftershave scents. I’m also not fond of patchouli, and a fair number of men’s scents have that in their basenotes, it seems.
I can definitely see not liking the “fresh” or “outdoorsy” or “cologne-y” style that so often makes up a masculine, but they’re not all that way! Lots are, though.
I bet lots of women wear mostly scents marketed to women, but toss in the occasional masculine, too. I know I do.
Hey Mals – although I do tend to prefer seriously womanly fragrances – I also like the polar opposite – really really masculine, spicy fragrances. Pour Monsieur and Habit Rouge are about as light as I get before they become unisex for me. I like unisex like L’Air de Desert Marocain – but normally I think most (not all) unisex are almost boring – I’m always looking for more of a specific statement from the fragrances I enjoy wearing, anyway….
As I grew up in the age of Aramis, Dunhill, Halston Z14 (which my younger sister used to wear in high school), the original Polo, Balenciaga, etc, the bar is pretty high for what I consider masculine (like Chanel Bois des Iles – perfect example of woody spicy). I’ve never cared for fresh or ozone fragrances – too much like the laundry. I like mens frags that are rich and spicy and very very warm – it just makes me feel like I’ve just been cozied up so to speak. Now I don’t normally dip into the mens frags, but when I do I like to get to the really rich spicy stuff. My recent and most excellent foray into unisex that is just outstanding is the SSS Tabac Aurea – but it would be a major masculine on the right guy.
Mals, I have that problem sometimes, and I have yet to identify the particular note or construction that does it to me. The perfume just sits on my skin saying Boy! Boy! Boy! Boy! until I give up and wash it off. But some perfumes designated as male just puzzle the heck out of me–they are too girly for me!
And–re: 3rd Man–I have the exact opposite reaction. I feel like a freshly shaved gentleman is following me around for the first hour and then it’s all incensy goodnes….mmmmm.
I wear Infusion d’Iris. I was at Saks the other day and wanted to give a Mitsouko a sniff. The saleswoman immediately asked me if it is a new fragrance for “her” or if she has worn it in the past. I didn’t feel like explaining so I just played along.
Did she let you try it on your skin? I can see where it might be easier just to play along sometimes rather than break the old stereotype.
Angela… again a great posting.
I feel that houses should stop advertizing specifically for men or for women.
Unfortunately, frags are still often “produced” as a concept, an image of the possible client, rather that created as a scent- a work of art– that could appeal to an undescribed someone. Companies spend a lot on advertizing because many people still buy into the image of a lifestyle.
Plus, let’s face it… we here at NST are the exception. We don’t just juge a scent by the pretty glossy picture in the magazines. We actually smell first and decide second.
Joe public does not want the guys at the factory to see him at a the same perfume counter that displays girly scents and lipsticks.
And little Paris Hilton wannabe-like-OMG– would just–like–die if like– OMG– they were to accidently wear the same scent as some guy on the football team.
As for me, I will continue to wear my Diva and my Montana Parfum de peau, as well as my Macassar my Egoiste and my M7.
I see your point. Maybe that’s why it’s more often the niche lines that don’t explicitly distinguish between feminines and masculines. They don’t advertise as much, and they aim toward a smaller but choosier customer base, I’d think.
AG Eau de Lavande is targeted to men, and I do think of it as masculine, because the fragrance reminds me of when I would sit with my father when he smoked his pipe. However, I enjoy to wear it not only for nostalgic reasons, but because it’s a darn fine scent…
I didn’t know that one was made for men! I’ve heard great things about it.
I forgot to mention that my son wore CdG 2 Woman to preschool the other day — his choice! I’m trying my best to inculcate olfactory broad-mindedness in future generations…
Speaking of broad-mindedness, many Middle Eastern men have no hangup about wearing florals. Does anyone know of other cultures where men traditionally wear flowers/floral scents? Polynesia, maybe, or other tropical places?
Pretty sophisticated for a kid!
I wish I knew more about the scent preferences in other cultures, but I don’t.
Ah, le bel Bel Ami. It’s uncanny, I was just thinking of this yesterday and debating whether I could buy it for myself. I love it so much it hurts. I bought it for an ex-husband and just loved it. Current boyfriend doesn’t wear cologne (he smells great in Lifeguard), so I have sadly been casting covetous glances at the bottles whenever I see them. I’m already a lavender wearer from way back (from what you say, a supposedly manly scent), so why not take the plunge? I’ll just have to give it a test drive–what smells great on my lover of choice, may make me want to gag when I smell it all the time on myself.
Thanks for the inspiration!!
Definitely do try it again! They say it’s changed a little over the years, although I think it smells wonderful now.
You remind me of another classic I forgot to put on my list, as if it wasn’t long enough!! I LOVE belamiI – also read it’s presumably tamed down by JCEllena. Never thought it could be so popular with women… interesting.
Oh, I love it.
When I was a kid checking out the drugstore or department store testers, I thought the perfume companies must devise their “masculine” fragrance formulas by first ruling out all the good smells and working with what was left! As you might infer, I was all about the florals in those days (and still love them best and foremost)– the men’s stuff smelled like sneeze-provoking weeds to me! The cheapness factor that Luca Turin has noted in fragrances marketed to men has also discouraged me from crossing over to the men’s counters. When I do want moody or leather or green scents, the women’s side has plenty of possibilities, so I haven’t really been pushed to investigate the men’s.
But you know something? I’d really like to smell Estee Lauder Youth Dew on a man. That would be terrific! Any takers?
There are definitely scores of great choices on the gal’s side of the aisle, but don’t rule out the masculines, either. Hermes is a good starting point.
Youth Dew on a man sounds really intriguing!
GG, that’s really a part of LT book I agree on (other aspects I don’t like, I don’t really share his tast, some star rating is really unlogical and the structure of the content is really bad) and I’m allways happy to try a feminine he names as ‘and a great masculine, too’. And I can totally see his point about the average cheapness of masculines. I really believe him this, and his and Tania Sanchez’ writing is so funny!
I think it’s very good for the perfume market that he as a ‘married man’ with a scientist background actually writes that some classical feminines lie Arpège make better masculine nowadays.
Btw, he made me try Patou 1000 which is gorgeous.
That’s true, the book does do a real service to knocking down some of the gender stereotyping for fragrances. And 1000 is great for a guy!
Well, all my fragrances tend to be quite strong and masculine – I am wearing Tauer’s Incense Extreme today, and loving its bone-dryness – it would smell amazing on a man. Notions of masculine/feminine scents have been constantly changing throughout the ages, for sure. In the past, men wore soliflores as well as women. It seems that, as we have progressed and modernised, our delineations of ‘gender appropriate’ scents have become more specific and rigid !!!
I love the idea of butch, big guys wearing Fracas. God, that sounds incredibly sexy actually – the sweet, heady tuberose mixing with the smell of male flesh and sweat. I am sure Germaine Cellier is smiling in her grave at the thought of that. She, more than anyone, understood that we all have both masculine and feminine within us. We should be free to explore all sides to our natures. Men shouldn’t hold back from it. Bandit and Fracas are two sides of the same coin. I wear both of them, depending on my mood, the occasion and what I am wearing.
Talking of butch men wearing Fracas – does anyone remember those photos of David Beckham wearing a sarong? He is the epitome of tough, butch manliness – and he’s into skirts!
I love your comment! Germaine Cellier would certainly be happy to know that Bandit and Fracas are favorites of people of any gender–people with personality, at least. And I completely understand your observation about Beckham in a sarong.
Hi Angela 😀
I have a bottle of Dune for men and I like it a lot!
Hey, I’ll have to try that one!
Hi Angela
Tubereuse by L’Artisan (a salty buttery soliflore) soudns absolutely marvellous on a man (who would think it fits, right?)
And my favourites among feminines are Mitsouko (expectidly), Bandit (as well), En Passant (not that it is a stated feminine but still it is so disarmingly nostalgic …) and I like Caleche Soie de Parfum but do not wear this one on a regular basis.
And then goes the whole lot of perfumes and scents which are not often even divided into f. and m. (Do Son, Serge Luten’s, Eaux de sometingwhateveritcouldbe etc.) 🙂
I always forget about Caleche Eau de Soie, but it’s so lovely. I’d like to smell it on a man. En Passant, too. Thanks!
Caleche is really LOVELY indeed and that is the main problem for an about 40 y.o. vvvvery short harcut manly-looking straigt man who for reasons beyond his control is a perfume maniac 🙂
And this very circumstance makes Tubereuse l’A.P. even more strange and spectacular.
One of my favorite perfume pastimes is to test a scent on myself and on my husband at the same time. Our body chemistries are really different so it’s interesting to see how different a single perfume experience is on the two of us – for example, some very girly perfumes smell sickeningly sweet on me and spicy and interesting on him. (He’s not really into perfume, but he puts up with all of this very graciously – lucky me!)
Body chemistry really is interesting. I suppose it’s good that his body eats the sweet parts and leaves the spice. I wonder what it does to a traditionally masculine scent?
I tend to love the unisex…or the fragrances that can do a bit of gender bending. i don’t like anything overly feminine or overly masculine.
Parfum D’Empire Cuir Ottoman is one of my favorites, and depending on the way the wind blows its classified as masculine, feminine, or unisex by sellers and reviewers.
Rochas Man…which is very very very similar to Bond no.9 New Haarlem, which, at least during my shopping experience was classified as a women’s scent that men often also liked.
Armani Prive Cuir Amethyste…which my mother insists smells woody and rich and very manly, but to me smells very strongly of sweet almost candied florals. I like it, don’t get me wrong, but only on days with a little stubble. lol
I also bought Robert Piguet Bandit (on a lark, for a great price), which to me smells like my grandmother. I have no clue how anyone thinks this is funky, or manly, or leathery, or anything other than grandma. I don’t think it’ll be around long, unless the next time I attempt to wear it numerous people comment on it.
I also feel like admitting my love for jasmine, and really big white flowers.
someday i’ll break that barrier…i’m sure of it.
Jasmine is fabulous. There’s no shame there.
Your grandma must have been one tough broad!
I’ve yet to try Rochas Man. I’ll have to remedy that.
she is actually the anti-tough. lol
my nose and bandit just don’t seem to get along…yet. i also can’t seem to find a shop in this city that will let me smell their bandit to verify my own.
if you’ve smelled bond no.9 new haarlem, you’ve pretty much smelled rochas man. they’re very nearly identical, with the new haarlem being ever so slightly darker, and with 100x more sillage than the rochas. if you haven’t smelled either…they’re lovely, very gourmand, but very wearable and not cloying.
Thanks. I like New Haarlem, but I wouldn’t mind it being a little more sheer, so maybe Rochas Man is just the ticket!
I love Guerlain Homme, Guerlain L’Instant pour Homme and Kenzo Power, also Anvers 2 (thanks to Memechose for the tip off!)
I like L’Instant for men, too!
Not a huge suprise here, but I do love Light Blue by D&G (feminine) far more than most masculine “fresh” scents. That said, I find myself infatuated with the scent of Theirry Mugler Alien and Kenzo Amour. Oh yeah, and I do love Aqua di Parma Fico, which some brand feminine.
I can completely imagine Thierry Alien on a guy. The new Acqua di Parma sounds intriguing, too. Thanks!
Not sure if this is a sign of a shift in fragrance marketing, but Shoppers Drug Mart (the Canadian Walgreens, if you will) has a number of stores with full-fledged beauty sections, filled with a wide selection of fragrances, and they’re all sorted by brand/house, rather than by gender. One shelf has the Diors, another shelf has the Chanels, etc., and Allure and Egoiste sit happily beside each other, as do Dolce Vita and Fahrenheit. It makes metaphorical “aisle-hopping” a piece of cake; I can spritz that Gucci feminine I’ve read about without that awkward feeling of strolling into the women’s fragrance department by myself and having SAs give me the squinty eye. It’s a genius setup that I wish more department stores would copy.
As for the feminine fragrances I do wear: Opium, Angel, Coco, YSL Nu, and Gucci Rush all get heavy rotation, and I don’t find one of them too “feminine” for my skin (Coco is admittedly borderline, so I stick to a light application). Uber-macho fragrances as a whole simply don’t interest me, and wearing them makes me feel like I’m in costume, or overcompensating for something. As for women who wear men’s fragrances – bravo, sisters! I can imagine a multitude of men’s scents working spectacularly on female skin – Dior Homme, Burberry London, Prada Infusion d’Homme, and Guerlain Vetiver spring immediately to mind, but there are loads more. Hell, even a woman wafting Kouros or Polo would strike me as drop-dead sexy.