Bel Respiro is one of the 10 fragrances from Chanel's recent entry into the niche perfumery market, the Les Exclusifs de Chanel collection. The name Bel Respiro, and the inspiration for the scent, comes from a country house outside Paris that Coco Chanel owned in the 1920s. Bel Respiro was created by Chanel's in-house perfumer, Jacques Polge, and the notes are rumored to include crushed leaves, rosemary, thyme, rose, lilac, hyacinth, green tea, aromatic grasses, myrrh and leather.
The frenzy over the Les Exclusifs reached a fever pitch in the weeks before they launched — among perfumistas, anyway. I'm guessing the rest of the world is only just barely aware of their existence. At any rate, by the time my samples arrived, I was reluctant to try them at all. How could they possibly live up to the hype? When curiosity finally got the better of me, Bel Respiro was the first thing I reached for. A fragrance "intended to evoke stems, leaves and springtime" (Women's Wear Daily, 12/22/06) seemed bound to please.
As it turns out, Bel Respiro was a good place to start: it isn't the show-stopper of the collection, but it is immensely likeable. It starts off with fresh diffusive notes over deep, almost-bitter greenery. It is vaguely reminiscent of the opening of Chanel no. 19, but only vaguely; Bel Respiro smells brighter, more modern, less stylised, and evokes the smell of a spring day in the garden in a way that no. 19 doesn't attempt. A better comparison might be to Gobin Daude's Sous Le Buis, if you happen to have smelled it (it is not currently available): Bel Respiro's green is paler and more herbal, but the same buried-in-shrubbery feeling is there.
After an hour on skin, the closest association might be with the modern formulation of Balmain's Vent Vert, although Bel Respiro is drier and less floral, and they are far from twins. By now, the bitterness of the crushed leaves and stems in the opening has subsided into something much milder and softer, with transparent floral notes floating over the greenery. The base is pale but not at all dull, and gets better as it continues to develop (although I'm not sure I would have picked out either leather or myrrh); after 2 hours, it is downright sexy, and the Vent Vert smells rather prim and proper in comparison.
Bel Respiro has the elegance you'd expect from a Chanel, and the pared-down minimalism you'd expect from a modern niche scent. The lasting power is good for an Eau de Toilette, but it isn't a powerhouse fragrance — don't expect massive sillage, and it isn't the sort of scent that will make a good showing from a sample vial: it needs several good sprays. I honestly can't remember if Chanel is marketing these as unisex or not, but Bel Respiro qualifies as such. A man could easily wear it. Highly recommended.
Chanel Bel Respiro is $175 for 200 ml, and is currently available at Chanel boutiques; it is to launch at Bergdorf Goodman next month.
Looking for more green? I did a list of green fragrances last St. Patrick's Day.
Tomorrow: another Les Exclusifs de Chanel scent, haven't decided which one.
I knew it! I knew you'd like this one, R! Funny thing is, I love it too 🙂
I like this a lot, too–and I can really see the comparisons to both Vent Vert and the late, lamented Sous le Buis. DH was initially a bit taken aback by it (he's not used to green scents because–with the notable exception of MeB #3–I don't wear them that much). But he was persuaded that it would be very nice in the summer:)
You were right! Actually, I like all of them — although admit I haven't sprayed Coromandel yet.
And did he try it too, or was he just taken aback by the idea of you wearing it?
And agree, it is going to be a great summer scent, as is the Eau de Cologne.
I very much liked this one, for the reasons you lists, it is very likable and wearable. Not the one that will bring down the house, but perfect for exactly what it is.
Thank you for another lovely review, Robin. Out of all of Les Exclusifs, my favorites were No. 18, Coromandel, Eau de Cologne, and 28 La Pausa. I need to give Bel Respiro and 31 Rue Cambon second tries…though I didn't dislike them by any means, I just liked the other four better. Patty's so right in saying that Bel Respiro isn't the one that will bring down the house, but it's very wearable and perfect for what it is.
No, he didn't try it (it's not his sort of thing). But when I stuck my wrist under his nose, he said, “That's unusual! Very weird!” But I think it was just that he's not used to this kind of scent; he had no objection to my wearing it (But he rarely does; the only scents I can remember his objecting to were LV Vetiver (I think it must be the celery that got him–I love it) and Bigarade Concentree (I don't do well in strong citrus).
I still haven't tried the cologne–must do so soon.
Well, then I must be off base, I don't find it very weird at all…but then, I adore almost anything green. And can see the objections to LV Vetiver & Bigarade Concentree, those are tastes I haven't acquired yet either 🙂
Yep 🙂
I haven't tried the Coromandel yet, but really like all the rest. 31 Rue Cambon might end up being my very favorite, although La Pausa is a close 2nd.
They really should have done a coffret of 15 mls, like the Hermes Discovery sets…I think they would have sold zillions of them. Instead, all of that business is going to the Ebay decanters. Seems like a lost opportunity for Chanel.
You already read my thing — Bel Respiro I really warmed up to. I'm not wild for galbanum, and the opening's a little rough, but the drydown is so amazing! I got honey and hay. It's very, very different from the start, and you're right — it is a bit sexy, isn't it?
Also, yes — these definitely work better sprayed on.
PS your blog looks very pretty — I like the new colors! You have a great eye for design.
M, I like it a little rough, I guess…I wish the bitter stuff in the opening lasted longer. After about a half an hour, I thought it was going to end up rather dull — luckily the base is worth waiting for. Honey and hay…I can see that. The base still doesn't smell like anything in particular to me, though. Just sexy.
You are very kind — PP is way snazzier 🙂
Well, the thing is, somebody *obviously* has to organize some bottle splits, since Chanel was so foolish. I say somebody because I would be happy to do it, but I lack a place to buy them (other than Paris and I've got a $700 customs limit) and my Canadian location means potential mailing and border difficulties for buyers.
This one sounds lovely – not usually my thing, but that drydown sounds so appealing.
I agree! But I see so many fewer bottle splits these days…they are still done on the boards from time to time, but I think most people are just buying decants from Ebay. And having organized several splits myself — I have to say I would NOT be happy to do it, LOL — it is a major production, and way more work than I thought it would be.
I would love to smell these but I don't really know if I will get the chance because I can't think of anywhere near me that will stock them. Is a “boutique” an actual Chanel shop or just a counter? I'm guessing it's not a counter because that wouldn't be very exclusive! Things like this usually mean having to make the effort and go to London, I will have to keep my eye out in the mean time.
It means an actual Chanel store, or else the Chanel boutique inside Bergdorf Goodman. I don't know what the plans are for London, but I wouldn't be surprised if at least one department store there will get them? But if you're going to London, I would imagine you could as easily go right to Chanel.
It really would be worth a try, I will ring them. I'm actually going niche at the moment. After years of faithfully relating to and being grateful for the mass market I fancied sprucing up my perfume wardrobe with a bit of niche! I am waiting for my Ormonde Jayne sample set and the other day I found out that Luckyscent now deliver to the UK! I have always been jealous of people who could order from there! I would be grateful for any suggestions as I tend to go for the fanciest bottles, which isn't really the best way to go about things!
Oh, hope you will love the OJs!
And check out first-in-fragrance in Germany too, they have many of the same scents Luckyscent does, but perhaps the shipping will be cheaper? Both stores have wonderful customer service. Also check out Les Senteurs in London, they do online sales also, and I'm pretty sure they have a sample service.
I love so many of the scents at Luckyscent that I can't narrow down to a list of recs…if you look at the index of perfume reviews, you'll see lots of brands that they carry.
I will take the time to do that. Thanks for the advice xx and thanks as ever for the fab review.
The Chanel boutique on Old Bond Street has them (£120 for the 200ml bottles), but the Chanel counter in Harvey Nicks (which has the original four Rue Cambon scents) doesn't have them.
Thankyou for letting me know. I can add you to my blame list when my bank manager starts complaining!
LOL! My bank manager must be under heavy sedation by now.
I'm odd man out w/ this one. I adore green scents and was sure I'd love it, but I seem to be stuck in a shoulder shrugging state of like. No swooning. My first thought when I sniffed it was Herbal Essence shampoo meets Miya Shinma Feuillage Vert. Lovely, but not the Chanel “wow!” I was expecting. Marina wrote recently about the Philly Cheesesteak Syndrome she experienced. I think I'm suffering from it. I want this for a bath gel or shampoo, but don't feel compelled to do severe damage to my fragile budget and purchase it as a scent. And, bizarrely enough, I really wanted to.
LOL at “Herbal Essence shampoo meets Miya Shinma Feuillage Vert”…that is not what Chanel had in mind, I'm sure! Did you love any of the Chanel Exclusifs?
This one sounds really nice to me – because I am a green fan, the notes sound very appealing. No 19 is pretty much the only Chanel I can wear, so I'd be curious to try this one. Don't know if these exclusifs will ever make it to Canada though!
Yes, I love No. 31. It's definitely got the Chanel feel, but even w/ it, I think I'm going to hold out for the parfum form – am sending serious psychic vibes to Chanel for that. I also love Coromandel, but don't feel I'll need more than maybe one more small decant. I was shocked to find I quite liked the edc since I'm not an edc person usually, but again, one more decant will be enough. They were all pleasant, but not the fragrant second coming I'd been expecting. If the Tom Fords fail to impress me, I'll be genuinely relieved, but no matter how exclusive Tom (love him, but…) claims they are, they're still not Chanels. I had real hopes for something completely unique, but brilliantly classic and Chanel like w/ these and, except for No. 31, I'm not getting that. They remind me of high quality scents from a niche line…just not Chanel.
Seriously? There must be Chanel boutiques in Canada, and I'd be surprised if they weren't going to have them (?)
LOL…they were *so* hyped as the second coming that I really kind of expected them to suck, and was quite relieved that they didn't. So, would agree they aren't the second coming, but still like them way better than the recent Chanels (Allure, Chance) and in the end I'd rate them considerably higher than pleasant.
On the Tom Fords: I will be VERY surprised if he can pull off 12 scents of the same quality as the Chanels. First, they can't have been working on them long, and second, almost nobody gets the high quality ingredients Chanel does and third, 12 is just an awful lot to release at once. But I am fully prepared to be VERY surprised 🙂
Yep, I should have adopted your attitude and been wary of the hype. I've not cared for the other recent Chanels either, but since these were going to be part of the Exclusifs, I was dreamily expecting BdI and CdR equivalents. I always forget that Gardenia is one of them and I'm not soul attached to it like I am to the others. These are definitely Gardenia or better. I'd have really liked to have been able to test these as parfums. I might have had quite different thoughts.
I agree w/ you – 12 is just far too many to release at once and I'm very skeptical about the degree of fabulousness they'll achieve. However, given my nicely lowered expectations, who knows? I could be chatting w/ DH in a month about taking out a second mortgage.
Hi Robin! I'm a perfume newbie and Annie from Blogdorf Goodman recommended I check out your site to read up before I start trying scents and make my first big purchase. To be honest, I thought a blog about perfumes would be pretty boring, but I've been reading through the archives for the last hour and I'm hooked! I've added you to my RSS feed and I can't wait to continue reading. You're a fabulous resource and a very fun read!
We'll all need a 2nd mortgage if the haute multi-scent releases keep up at this pace, won't we?
Welcome, any friend of Annie's is a friend of mine! Thanks for the nice compliment, and I just LOVE your user name 🙂
Well, I still haven't tried any of the Exclusifs, but if BR is anything along the lines of No. 19, I'm going to love it.
Love your fresh look, R!
Hugs
I know that I'll most likely be buying decants of the ones I love…I can't see spending 175., and the bottles are huge. I don't know if I could use that much perfume. But today I wore Coromandel, and I'm so excited for you to try it, really want to know what you think of it. One of my students said “You smell amazing”. Two spritzes has lasted from 11am til 11:30pm…still going strong. I love a perfume that lasts. Well…ok, maybe I CAN see spending the 175. A coffret of 15mls would have been so perfect…
Yes, I meant to mention this – Robin, the blog looks lovely…very eye appealing!
Thanks Gina!!
LOL…it is the one that sounds least “me” so saved it for last, but will see if I can get some on skin today 🙂
And wow…that is great lasting power for an EdT!
Well, not sure that will make you love it…it is a much more modern, niche version of green. But worth a try!
And thanks 🙂
I ordered this fragrance (scent unsniffed) based on your recommendation. I cannot keep my wrists away from my nose! I love, love, love this.
Oh, you are brave! So glad it turns out that you love it 🙂
Smelt this today (I know, am quite late to the game) and the SA mentioned that this, and Eau de Cologne, are the only two Les Exclusifs fragrances that are marketed by Chanel to both sexes.
Really? I'm surprised. I guess that mean's they don't think women will buy Sycomore? Or men wear Rue Cambon or 28 La Pausa? Ah well, what do they know.
Hahaha yeah I think we've all learned to take whatever SAs say with a healthy dose of scepticism. I was surprised myself that he didn't recommend Cuir de Russie for men.
Cuir de Russie by today's standards (or maybe any standards?) is perfectly unisex, agree.
I love Bel Respiro for its sadness. Its melancholy is because of the lack of floral sweetness. BR It makes me think of an empty house in the country, where children once played. Or a walled garden that no-one goes into any more. Or a lonely solo piano playing in the distance. Unfortunately perhaps, this sadness often suits my mood, at this point in life. BR convinces me that it’s perfectly okay to feel sad – not depressed, that’s different – just sad. And that, paradoxically, cheers me up! Its a magnificent achievement in the art of perfumery, I think, and a world away from all of that predictable frou frou one encounters in celebrity perfumes (bubble gum and popcorn, squashed strawberries etc).
How interesting — it strikes us in nearly opposite ways! I think of it as a happy, spring-time scent. We both love it though 🙂
totallllllly love-love-love-I’m in love-love-love with bel respiro
🙂
You know, I bought decants of Coromandel, 28 La Pausa, Rue Cambon, and Bel Respiro. Bel Respiro was the one that really grew on me, so I bought a FB. I reach for it on rainy days, and days when I wish I were in Paris in the Spring. I wish 28 La Pausa lasted longer. I found that FBW, too, but it is GONE in 10 minutes. I must say I liked them all, and agree with previous comments that CHANEL should have offered them as a coffret.