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Rogue Perfumery Flos Mortis ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 18 December 2019 17 Comments

I have a complicated relationship with tuberose (Agave amica). I love the flowers, and summer is not summer without tuberose blossoming in my garden. My husband loves tuberose, too — in the garden and on his person (he wears Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower). If I had my druthers, a vase full of fresh tuberose flowers would scent my house at all times. Tuberose soap? Yes, please! The "complicated" part of my tuberose relationship is: I don't like to wear tuberose-rich fragrances! Most tuberose-centered perfumes turn dainty on me or the tuberose element is combined with glaring white florals to produce a shrill glamazon vibe. Tuberose scents I've worn with pleasure include original-formula Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle, Naomi Goodsir Nuit de Bakélite and Olfactive Studio Ombre Indigo. I'll now add Flos Mortis* to this list.

Flower of Death (Flos Mortis) perfume may not sound festive (or fit for the holidays) but its tuberose punch will keep you very much alive, and lively...even at a dull office party. Flos Mortis is a powerful and long-lasting tuberose scent, natural smelling and, to my nose and sensibility, unisex.

Rogue Perfumery is based in Whittier, California, and run by Manuel Cross, who has a love for vintage fragrances — and natural materials that make IFRA frown (tree moss, bergamot and the like). Rogue's slogan is "Bureaucracy destroys art!"

Flos Mortis’ tuberose emerges from a mentholated liniment rub-down and throws on a rough leather coat (that was stored with moth balls in all pockets). As the leather and camphor-like notes subside, tuberose is joined by a balmy floral note, sprightly/fruity jasmine and a silky “corn meal” background scent (unusual and spooky). Flos Mortis’ base smells of creamy tuberose and jasmine, with a mild "mint" edge.  I enjoy all phases of Flos Mortis, as did my tuberose-loving partner. If you’re a tuberose devotee, do try it. (Rogue offers generous, well-packaged samples for purchase at its Etsy site.)

On this happy note of discovery (of a new perfume house and a new tuberose perfume), I'll close out 2019 on Now Smell This. I wish all NST readers a happy and safe holiday season! I hope we'll 'meet' again in 2020.

Rogue Perfumery Flos Mortis is available on Rogue's Etsy site (30 ml/$75 and 60 ml/$110). Other perfumes in the line can be purchased at Luckyscent.

*Listed fragrance notes of tuberose absolute, Indian jasmine, osmanthus, red currant, leather, musk.

Note: top images of Tuberose at Night [altered] via Wikimedia Commons.

Possibly of interest

Maison Margiela Mutiny ~ fragrance review
Aftelier Velvet Tuberose ~ fragrance review
Atelier Cologne Cafe Tuberosa ~ fragrance review

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: rogue perfumery, tuberose

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17 Comments

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  1. Regina says:
    18 December 2019 at 2:47 pm

    I came in here prepared to brawl if you did not like it! I shall now relax my dukes. This is so good, and you’ve captured it very well with your description.

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    • Kevin says:
      18 December 2019 at 2:52 pm

      Regina: I’m so glad we didn’t have to duke it out! I’m decorating the Xmas tree and don’t have the energy!

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  2. chocolatemarzipan8 says:
    18 December 2019 at 2:56 pm

    I sampled the entire line and have to say that I am very impressed.

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    • chocolatemarzipan8 says:
      18 December 2019 at 2:56 pm

      Plus the prices are reasonable.

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      • Kevin says:
        18 December 2019 at 3:16 pm

        Ditto

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    • Regina says:
      18 December 2019 at 3:05 pm

      Agree! Champs Lunaires is sort of the day to Flos Mortis’s night, and I like both very much.

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      • Kevin says:
        18 December 2019 at 3:18 pm

        Regina: I liked that one as well, but it was way too feminine for me *wear-wise

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        • chocolatemarzipan8 says:
          18 December 2019 at 4:59 pm

          That one was my favorite 😍

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    • Kevin says:
      18 December 2019 at 3:16 pm

      Choco: me, too.

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  3. Oakland Fresca says:
    18 December 2019 at 3:00 pm

    I liked this one too–but it was more of mothball cum floral than a tuberose on me. It was a scent I wanted to smell on someone walking in from the cold, with a damp knitted scarf around his neck– a tight hug and then that scent as he unwound the wet wool and carried his coat closer to the fire to dry it out… not for me, but I enjoyed the ride.

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    • Kevin says:
      18 December 2019 at 3:19 pm

      OF: well, you certainly got a vignette out of it! HA! I love all things camphor-ish…so enjoyed that part

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  4. Dilana says:
    18 December 2019 at 3:21 pm

    I think tuberose perfumes (and colognes, I guess) are a matter of one’s skin. Tuberose fragrances of all ilks just bloom on my skin beyond what a sniff of the bottle suggests. On other people, they just lie there. (And I do like white flower scents, again, this may be a matter of the state of moisture, acidity or whatever, of my skin).
    How do you feel about your husband’s tuberose scents, do they seem different on him than on you?

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    • Kevin says:
      18 December 2019 at 3:43 pm

      Dilana: I like my tuberose scents “toughened up” with something: tar, leather, camphor, incense, “furry” mint, strong citrus, etc. A tuberose soliflore: no! When I smell tuberose on others it does not bother me, even soliflores…since it’s not on my skin and I don’t have to deal with it (tuberose lasts and lasts and lasts on my skin).

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  5. Gaynor says:
    18 December 2019 at 6:19 pm

    I tried the Rogue discovery set, and liked quite a few, but Flos Mortis wasn’t one of them! I liked the description of it, but it was all mothballs on me, and I just couldn’t wear it. However, I never say never, my tastes do change, and will keep the sample to try again in a while.

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    • Kevin says:
      18 December 2019 at 10:57 pm

      Gaynor: that’s for sure…tastes fluctuate. Maybe save it for another try in half a year’s time…the weather should be very different (I guess…these days you never know).

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  6. AngelaB says:
    19 December 2019 at 7:52 am

    That is cool artwork Kevin!
    I was intrigued by this perfume and ordered the sample set, but sadly It went ‘wonky ‘on me on the initial wear. It was almost a ‘meaty’ effect.
    I will try it again. I wanted to love it.

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    • Kevin says:
      19 December 2019 at 10:10 am

      Angela: thanks! (Also, I noticed on the Rogue site, they actually had a “warning” to sample Flos Mortis before buying…good advice)

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