Paris-based niche brand Olfactive Studio just launched Ombre Indigo,1 a shadow fragrance — an evocative and romantic idea.
Ombre Indigo opens with sweet, syrupy (and smoky) petitgrain; notes of saffron, woody vetiver and papyrus waft strongly at first, too. Ombre Indigo's head notes conjure a dry, summery atmosphere of glare and heat: think Egypt or Morocco, stone or earth buildings baking in the sun, incense burning in the background...on the wind. (The aquatic image, shown above, for Ombre Indigo by photographer Gustavo Pellizzon does not compute for me as a representation of the perfume. But who cares?)
In mid-development, Ombre Indigo presents leather (again, this is "desert" leather, like the leather goods one buys in Moroccan souks — no fancy, refined "boutique" leather here, but newly tanned hides with an animalic/still-alive quality. Though I don't smell plum on the inhale, as I exhale from a deep breath of this perfume I get an "after-aroma" of dense, (super)ripe fruit. As the perfume develops further, a raunchy/almost-fecal musk begins to waver in the "heat", accented by frankincense. Ombre Indigo is more pungent and earthy than the current version of Serge Lutens Muscs Koublaï Khan...a positive for me.
I wanted to try Ombre Indigo for one reason: its tuberose. As I wore the perfume, I was disappointed I didn't smell tuberose. How could that be? Well, tuberose makes an appearance (on my skin) in the base of Ombre Indigo, as the flowers finally rise above the layers of musk, incense and wood. My reaction to tuberose here was one of happy recognition and...relief: "You're here! You're here!" Ombre Indigo's tuberose is not menthol-tinged or indolic but is full-bodied, lush and creamy.
Ombre Indigo is a unisex fragrance, whether you love or hate it will probably depend on your relationships with incense, musks and "dirty" bits in perfume. Ombre Indigo's lasting power and sillage are great; applied lightly it would be wonderful in desert heat (in humid climes...no). I can't resist it, and just might buy a bottle.
As an experiment, I layered equal parts Ombre Indigo and Frédéric Malle's tuberose-rich Editions de Parfums Carnal Flower, and Carnal Flower triumphed (which surprised me). But thanks to the hit of Ombre Indigo, Carnal Flower shed its lacy silk panties and replaced them with form-fitting, pink boxer-briefs — still sensual, but a bit less feminine. I plan on continuing this blending experiment till I get the proportions of each perfume just right.
Olfactive Studio Ombre Indigo Eau de Parfum is available in 100 ml (€125) and 50 ml (€85). For buying information, see the listing for Olfactive Studio under Perfume Houses.
1. Perfumer Mylène Alran; listed notes of petitgrain, tuberose, plum, saffron, papyrus, vetiver, leather, olibanum, benzoin, ambergris, musk.
Thanks for the review, Kevin. I was worried that this one would be all smoke and no tuberose. It’s reassuring to know that it still has a floral element to it.
Colour me intrigued!
CPBoy: you’re welcome! I think for most men this has just the right amount of tuberose (discernible but not “broadcasting”). But at any rate, I really enjoy this one.
Have to order a sample
is this around yet?
Are you in the US? I don’t see it at Luckyscent, yet, though they carry the line.
Morgana…as far as I can tell, it is not in the US yet…should be soon.
Best new release I have seen in a while – Kevin, what’s the skank level, with MKK as 10?
Luha: I don’t know if you’ve smelled MKK recently? To me, its “skank” level has fallen a great deal…maybe to a 5. This one is more in the 7-8 area…due to the musky leather.
I certainly like the color of the perfume. Would it stain fabric, or does the color disappear once it’s out of the bottle?
Noz: I just sprayed some on my old white shirt and it is definitely BLUE now. HA! Don’t know if it will fade or disappear…will write back if it goes away. But to be safe let this one dry on skin before putting on clothes. But, hey, amber-colored perfumes leave color too…pinks…greens, on and on…yet I never notice any marks on my clothes.
Not that it’s good news, but glad to know MKK is no longer the unwashed camel driver it once was, so no need to try to find a bottle anymore
This sounds like it’s along the lines of HdP Tubereuse 3 Animalic. Have you tried that, if so, any comparison?
Perthgirl…I did try that when it was released…if I remember correctly, Ombre Indigo is WAY richer/muskier…with a different character.
Thanks Kevin
I like their other offerings so will add this to The List…
Thanks for this review Kevin. It has helped me clarify how I feel about this one. It reminds me a little of Atelier Gold (the plummy saffron leather one) though it is not as indigestible as that. I still find the syrupy opening of OI a bit much but once that’s done the musky woody incense is gorgeous. Like you I couldn’t find the tuberose at first so I might follow your lead and dab a bit of Carnal Flower on too (CF is beautiful but I so get your comment about lacy silk panties!).
Dona, wonder how Tuberose Criminelle would layer with this…will try to find a sample.
I just ordered 2 – 100 ml bottles of this stuff based on everything I’ve read about it. I should have them in another couple days. I’ll post my thoughts once the bottles arrive.
Oh, and for the record, I bought them through essenza-nobile.de, in case anyone was wondering.
I live in Maine and shipping wasn’t a problem nor terribly expensive.
For the record, you can get them through Essenza Nobile in Germany. I’d post the link, but it would get scrubbed.