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Browsing by tag: floral

Cartier Carat ~ perfume review

Posted by Robin on 21 September 2018 24 Comments

The background: The name presumably needs no explanation, insofar as Cartier is best known as a jewelry house. Cartier perfumer Mathilde Laurent says “Cartier brings diamonds to life by showcasing them so stunningly, by introducing light and making it scintillate and shimmer. I wanted to create a fragrance that sparkles, alive with all the fire of a diamond.
”1

The juice: So Mathilde Laurent aimed for a perfume that would transmit light with the brightness of a diamond, yada yada yada. That became something about the seven colors of a rainbow refracted through a diamond, with the seven colors represented by seven floral notes…

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Gucci Bloom ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 16 August 2017 18 Comments

Gucci Bloom

Bloom1 is one of the first two Gucci fragrances conceptualized by Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele. As with Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme, Michele worked with perfumer Alberto Morillas. In each of these fragrances, Morillas used a new, “natural” ingredient; Guilty Absolute Pour Homme contains an extract of Nootka cypress and Bloom presents Rangoon creeper (“harvested” via headspace technology in India — so claims Gucci).

Bloom begins with a penetrating, slightly fruity jasmine/tuberose accord…

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Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Bluedaisy & Poppy ~ fragrance reviews

Posted by Jessica on 6 July 2017 4 Comments

poppies and daisy

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has been around longer than most indie perfumers — long enough, in fact, that she recently began a “retrograde files” fragrance series, relaunching and re-imagining discontinued scents from her back catalog. She wrote in a recent blog post, “Passionflower Perfume Poems was a small collection that I started releasing around 1999–2000 with a young, ‘millennial’ audience in mind.” Well, the Poems are back, with slight reformulations and name changes. I looked forward to trying a few because I remember them from the mid-2000s but I drained my sample vials years ago.

First, here’s Bluedaisy, formerly known as Daisy or Daisy Be Young. (I can guess why it would be difficult to re-release a fragrance under the name Daisy in 2017…)

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Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 22 May 2017 33 Comments

Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps brand image

I’d call Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps “youthful,” except that I’m not sure anyone young today would wear it, except ironically. Yet, L’Air du Temps seems ill fit for a mature woman. I imagine it on a mid-century ingenue, say Natalie Wood. L’Air du Temps’s clean, full floral bouquet with a hint of clove is too innocent for most people today over the age of 16, yet, at the same time, too old fashioned to appeal to them.

Francis Fabron, author of Givenchy L’Interdit, also developed L’Air du Temps. The fragrance launched in 1948 — the height of Dior’s New Look…

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Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Gekkou Hanami ~ fragrance review

Posted by Jessica on 13 April 2017 10 Comments

cherry blossoms

There are years when I feel as though I’ve missed Spring entirely. Believe, me, true Spring (with a capital S) is a fleeting season in New York City, just a week or two crushed between the bone-chilling rainy days of late winter and the months-long oppression of summer’s filth-tinged humidity.

I’m really going to pay attention this year so that I can make the most of Spring’s brief delights. Never mind the deadlines (and oh, do I have deadlines for the next few weeks!) — I’ve been forcing myself to go outside for afternoon coffee breaks and I’ve already bought my tickets to Sakura Matsuri, the annual cherry blossom festival at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden. I even have my perfume picked out: Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Gekkou Hanami (“Sakura Gazing in the Moonlight”)…

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