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Browsing by tag: bernard chant

Death and sex, entropy and excess

Posted by Robin on 17 May 2021 13 Comments

The scent, created by the legendary French parfumier Bernard Chant, was tangy, feral, and almost too naughty to wear to work, but this mildly transgressive quality was a big part of the appeal. The seventies were an unbridled and messy time, when loucheness was a life style born of postwar nihilism and economic decline. If the city was crumbling around you, why not smell like death and sex, entropy and excess? The new formula does not smell like these things. It cannot clear elevators or persist through a night of heavy dancing. It evaporates quickly and smells a little like soap. Still, I bought a bottle recently, because I knew that a new Netflix miniseries about Halston (called, simply, “Halston,”) was coming, and I wanted to turn my viewing experience into a kind of Smell-O-Vision. As it turns out, the synthetic, exasperating reformulation was a perfect match for watching the series.

— Read more in The Freeing Fashion Behind the Halston Saga at The New Yorker.

Estee Lauder Estee ~ fragrance review

Posted by Angela on 22 June 2015 27 Comments

Estée Lauder Estée

In the documentary Iris, the stylish 93-year-old Iris Apfel says something close to, “I don’t like pretty. I have no use for pretty. I know people don’t agree with me, but there you have it.” The camera lingers uncomfortably long on her. She finally turns away. There’s nothing pretty about Iris Apfel, but her marvelous excess is riveting. I bet she would love Estée Lauder Estée.

Bernard Chant created Estée, Estée Lauder’s second fragrance after Youth Dew. Estée launched in 1968. Its notes include jasmine, rose, muguet, coriander, ylang ylang, orris, sandalwood and moss. Those notes sound mild and “pretty,” but wearing Estée is like biting into a fresh kumquat. For a second or two you think you’ve made a dire mistake…

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Clinique Aromatics Elixir ~ fragrance review

Posted by Kevin on 29 October 2014 52 Comments

Clinique Aromatics Elixir

I remember trying Clinique Aromatics Elixir1 in my early twenties (didn’t like it then) and forgetting it existed till I met someone 13 years later who wore it all the time. When I first met her, I said: “You’re wearing Aromatics Elixir, aren’t you?” How could I remember a perfume I had tried so long ago and never wore again? (I was proud of myself…what a memory! what a Nose!) But I can take only partial credit for this feat; Aromatics Elixir is distinctive, and one of the few perfumes with a strong oak moss note that I now enjoy.

Last week, when I reviewed Aramis (a fragrance that shares Aromatics Elixir’s perfumer, Bernard Chant), I admitted oak moss is not one of my favorite fragrance ingredients — an understatement. Oak moss is something I imagine as a brittle, sticky thread that takes over other ingredients as a virus overwhelms a host…

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Aramis by Aramis ~ fragrance review & A Rant in Defense of the Aging and Old

Posted by Kevin on 23 October 2014 75 Comments

Aramis advert

I’ve been meaning to review Aramis1 for years (it’s a classic, and I’ve never tried it!) Reading two articles back to back last week, randomly, led me to the perfume counter for a fresh Aramis sample…and this review. These articles have apt connections to the “old-man” perfume that is Aramis (it was first released in 1964 and is regularly disparaged by men, and women, on perfume forums as being “old” fashioned and, thus, un-wearable today).

First up was an interview with Frances McDormand, talking about aging in The New York Times:

We are on red alert when it comes to how we are perceiving ourselves as a species. There’s no desire to be an adult…

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Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer’s Reserve ~ new fragrance

Posted by Robin on 15 September 2011 38 Comments

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Clinique celebrates the 40th anniversary of Aromatics Elixir, the 1971 classic chypre developed by perfumer Bernard Chant, with new limited editions including a new interpretation of the fragrance…

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From NST at Twitter

  • "How scientists are decoding what the past smelled like" (cnn) https://t.co/jdiy07ZXfh, 3 hours ago
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  • "Lush jumps into action with new Super Mario bath collection" (cosmeticsbusiness) https://t.co/Zz5kXx64DN,
  • "W Editors Share Their All-Time Favorite Fragrances" https://t.co/ynkWuxNwE2,

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