I once heard perfumer Thomas Fontaine say he considered orange blossom an American note. (Iris and galbanum were French, he said.) Right away, I thought of bars of soap, brides, and piles of white laundered towels. Is that what Americans are about — cleanliness and innocence? Maybe I should have asked, is that what orange blossom is about?
Orange blossom is a lot more expressive than its association with laundry detergent would have you believe. Here are five relatively easy-to-find1 orange blossom-centered fragrances that explore a variety of non-Girl Scout takes on the note:
Serge Lutens Fleurs d’Oranger: Fleurs d'Oranger kicks off as bright and juicy as a grove of Florida Ambersweets in spring. Just when you anticipate a hit of clean musk, Fleurs d’Oranger serves up skank. The skank gives way to a far-off spicy murmur, but the overall effect is that Tinkerbell needs to take a shower. (If you like this one, you must try Vero Profumo Rubj.)
Hermès 24, Faubourg: In 24, Faubourg, the orange blossom is served up with a bouquet of hundred dollar bills in a gilded vase. It’s a dense, high-society floral infused with elegance and the kind of smile that focuses more on beautiful dental work than real warmth. Still, I cherish my decant for days I want to feel expensive.
Elie Saab Le Parfum: Elie Saab Le Parfum is orange blossom whipped into a dervish-like frenzy to a pitch that shatters glass. I do imagine brides wearing this orange blossom, but not the blushing type. These brides have glossy lips, unseasonal tans and red carpet heels.
Thorn & Bloom Orange Blossom: Here’s a spicy oriental orange blossom made from all-natural materials that’s deep and rich. I wouldn’t call it gourmand, exactly, but it wafts cinnamon and cardamom along with its floral heart. Something about Orange Blossom feels old fashioned to me and brings up a vision of Maureen O’Hara baking snickerdoodles while her Hollywood garden’s orange tree blooms outside.
L’Artisan Parfumeur Séville à l’Aube: This is the orange blossom I wear the most. It kicks off with tart green orange blossom tinged with lavender. Over this lays a veil of incense, beeswax and animal notes. Under it is a velvety bed sweet with benzoin. Séville à l’Aube has the body and persistence to last the day on my skin. (Check out The Perfume Lover by Denyse Beaulieu if you want the story of how the fragrance was developed.)
Are you a fan of orange blossom fragrances? What are some of your favorites?
1. Except maybe Thorn & Bloom Orange Blossom. My sample came from Potion.
I have three out of five of those fragrances. I have to admit that my favorite “orange blossom scents” are actually Neroli scents. I love Annick Goutal’s Neroli and Yves Rocher Secret d’Essences Neroli.
I’m in the neroli camp too! The new L’Artisan Parfumeur Histoire d’Oranges is similar to AG Neroli, maybe a little fresher smelling. Definitely try it though, see what you think.
I haven’t smelled that one yet!
I’ve sort of mixed up orange blossom, neroli, and petit grain here. I remember smelling Annick Goutal Neroli once and liking it!
I love AG’s Neroli, my conversion scent for that note. Now I also particularly love the lighter, subtler take of the Yves Rocher version in their Secrets d’Essences line. Picked up in Antwerp, where this brand is considered low-to-mid-range…ha!
Yves Rocher has made some really nice fragrances and worked with some terrific noses. I’m glad to hear the orange blossom is good, too! I wish that line was easier to get in the U.S.
This is a good question – do I like orange blossom? From your list I have smelled 24 faubourg and Seville a l’aube – I like 24 faubourg, but I don’t like Seville a l’aube. Furthermore, I don’t care for Fleur du Male. What does it all mean? Maybe 3 perfumes is not enough to write off a note.
I can’t think of any category I don’t like – chypre, gourmand, leather, iris, rose, musk – all good. I guess sickly sweet I don’t like, but I do like sweet. It’s all about the composition right?
It really is about composition, and orange blossom can be used so many different ways that it’s not worth it to write it off yet!
So enjoy your writing, Angela. Particularly love: It’s a dense, high-society floral infused with elegance and the kind of smile that focuses more on beautiful dental work than real warmth. Ha! True!
My favorite OB is Seville. Some OBs can be too sweet and yet Seville has some sweetness but it’s a mature and very interesting take on OB. I also enjoy Jo Malone’s OB which is simple, but pretty and dependable again, not veering too much into the tooth-achingly sweet category.
Jo Malone’s is my fav.
I am hoping someone makes a pure oud oil / orange blossom fragrance that I can actually afford.
Whoa! I’d love to smell that!
Eric Butterbaugh has an orange flower oud. Have you tried it? I liked the lily of the valley oud (I know, sounds weird) better, but you might not.
Both those ouds sound weird enough that I might like them!
They’re thick and kind of sticky, but intriguing!
DSH Habibi is a gorgeous combination of orange blossom and oud.
Thanks for the recommendation!
I go to Seville in cool weather and warm. It’s a good one to have around.
Thanks for the review! I’m always on the lookout for a perfect Orange Blossom – I have a lot of citrus trees in my garden and right now they are starting to bloom. I have decants of both the Serge Lutens and Seville a l’aube, I like them both a lot, but my ideal orange blossom would be a bit zestier than either one of those, with a touch more green and bitter notes while still veering feminine.
That sounds good to me! I wonder if it would be hard to sustain the green and zesty part? In any case, it sounds nice.
Am I correct when I say that neroli has a certain refreshing quality, maybe a kind of tartness, that orange blossom lacks? I navigate towards scents with ‘neroli’ in their description, name and/or notes. They cheer me up. Whereas the appearance orange blossom kind of chases me away. As if I lack in impeccability and cannot be seen with this harbinger of decency. (it’s mutual – she rather bores me actually)
I do have 24 faubourg which I very very occasionally wear. If delivered to the bourgeoisie then let it be Parisian bourgeoisie…
I’m not an expert, and I’ve been corrected on this before, but my impression is that neroli is the oil from orange blossom. And yes to the Parisian bourgeoisie if need be!
I do like orange blossom, though I have to say that nothing – nothing – can beat the scent of the real thing. I was walking past an orange tree in bloom a few weeks ago and it stopped me in my tracks.
Favorites include Seville l’aube, Lush’s Orange Blossom, 7 Virtues Afghanistan Orange Blossom, and Houbigant’s Orangers en Fleurs.
I forgot about Orangers en Fleurs! That was a good one.
Agree that irl orange blossom is in a league of it’s own. Whenever I visit my Dad’s family in Southern California I find myself floored by passing orange trees on peoples’ yards. It smells too good to be real!
That sounds like heaven!
I agree wholeheartedly! When we picked oranges at Showcase of Citrus in Clermont, FL a few years ago I was blown away by the scent. There were a few orange blossoms left on some of the trees so I stuck my nose into the flower right by a lazy bee also sniffing around.
I bought some cologne they had in the store, but it wasn’t even close. At least the bottle is cute, shaped like an orange. I now have Serge Lutens, Goutal Neroli and Yves Rocher orange blossom.
That’s so nice! I used to have a potted meyer lemon tree, and I loved its blossoms’ scent. Now I long to smell orange blossoms.
Citrus blossoms have a family resemblance – every kind I’ve been able to sniff smells heavenly.
I love some orange blossom fragrances as well. Favourite is Sweet Redemption, love 24, Faubourg and the light ones, Cologne Sologne and Fragonard’s Fleur d’Oranger and the gorgeous Néroli by Goutal.
Have you tried the new Artisan Orange Blossom, it’s lovely.
No, I haven’t tried it yet. I sure do want to, though.
Has anyone tried Histoire d’oranges by Artisan – austenfan, is that the one you mean?
I recommend anyone who likes orange blossom or neroli-focused perfumes try it. I’d buy it if I didn’t already have this part of my collection covered. It’s really good.
Another recommendation!
I think that’s the one she means–the new one, right?
It is, sorry only reading this now. I think Victoria has reviewed over on Bois de Jasmin.
She has± https://boisdejasmin.com/2017/08/lartisan-parfumeur-histoire-dorangers-perfume-review.html
Thank you!
I’ve smelled three from your list: Fleurs d’Oranger, 24, Faubourg, and Séville à l’Aube. Of these, I liked Fleurs d’Oranger, was tepid about Séville à l’Aube, and really didn’t care for 24, Faubourg.
The only two orange blossoms I own (and love) are Rubj and Narcisse Noir.
I adore Rubj. I’ve heard Narcisse Noir referred to as orange blossom, but I’ve really only spent time with it in extrait, and it’s hard for me to pull out much orange blossom there.
I am a big narcissus fan, so I was expecting tons of it in Narcisse Noir. But nope. It’s nearly all OB to my nose as well. (I did try the extrait, but not vintage extrait.)
Actually, you know, Fracas is as much orange blossom to me as it is tuberose. It has this thick cold-cream aspect.
Yeah, I need to try to EdT, I guess…..
This is wild. I love Hermès 24, Faubourg and NEVER associated it at all with orange blossom, which I think of as something I tend not to like. Must go back to re-sniff! I always prefer orange to orange blossom, and tangerine to both.
If you sniff it and think of orange blossom, I think you’ll get it!
Like Calypso, I never associated orange blossom with 24 Faubourg. I didn’t like 24F at first, but eventually grew to love it.
Of the others on your list, I’ve tried Seville a l”Aube–ick, total scrubber, and Elie Saab, which I also did not care for. I’m going to go back to the Saab and see if I can access something good in it. Thanks for the inspiration to do so.
At the very least, you might be able to discover WHY you’re not wild about it, and that’s something!
glad to hear I’m not the only one who has trouble with Seville a l’Aube, it seems like a top 20 fragrance ’round here! (at least in summer)
I’m sure you’re not alone……
No, Coin-op is not alone. 😉
I love reading your posts Angela. Elie Saab Le Parfum and Fleur d’Oranger have too much cumin for me. Especially the Lutens makes me smell like I need a serious bath. I had a rollerball of Le Parfum that I purposely left in the ladies room where I work. It disappeared rather quickly.
I love your description of 24 Faubourg, which I do own and enjoy wearing as a sleep scent. I find that one hard to pull off in my office. One of my colleagues is part bloodhound and is sensitive to scent. ????
Oh, too bad! Are there any fragrances you can get away with at work?
It’s lovely to see the Thorn and Bloom here. All of her stuff is great.
Isn’t Hiram Green’s Dilittante Orange Blossom? I love it.
Also T and B does small roller balls and travel sprays for great prices. No affiliation, just saying!
I wish more companies offered smaller sizes.
This is the only one of the line I’ve tried!
I love both of these, and I’m glad to hear they have other fans. T&B Orange Blossom has tobacco richness that is perfect for cooler days. Dilettante, which for me finally scratched the itch that vintage Narcisse Noir left in its wake, is my summer staple. Both are highly recommended and both are all natural and have mini/travel sizes available. Win win!
I can tell I’m going to need to sample Dilettante! I adore the rest of the line.
Yes to Séville à l’Aube — I was wearing it just last weekend.
I was lucky to have begun collecting at just the right time to encounter a discounted bottle of L’Artisan’s Fleur d’Oranger 2007 on ebay. It is absolutely joyous.
I also appreciate orange blossom in a good cologne, such as Astier de Villatte Eau Chic.
I wonder if Diptyque will ever do an orange blossom in their Essences Insensées series?
Oh, I remember those harvest-specific bottles! You were indeed lucky. I wish I’d have acted faster when Diptyque did the mimosa.
That series has such beautiful bottles, too.
Yes!
Omg, see my post and response to C below. You are killing me.????
I hope you get some soon!
Well there is good old 4711… I also love the orange blossom in Kouros, of all things…. I think that there might be some lurking in Caron’s Le Troisiemme Homme, which has moments of reminding me of of Kouros (some common notes: citrus, coriander, lavender, clove, MUSK, oakmoss, jasmine & skank), because it’s just so smooth.
4711 is a whole take on orange blossom I hadn’t even included–thanks! And I adore 3eme Homme.
The L’Artisan Seville and 2007 harvest versions are my favourites, although Rubj is a close runner up. I also have and enjoy the Lutens and 24 Faubourg.
Which version of Rubj do you like best?
The extrait. The edp is horribly skanky on me. Haven’t tried the voile d’extrait.
I’ve only tried the EdP, and yes it’s skanky! In the best way.
I might give a kidney for a bottle of the Fleur d’Oranger special harvest.
You are only one of many, I think!
I didn’t think I was a fan of orange blossom perfumes until I got a sample of Guerlain’s Neroli Outrenoir. It got me. It SO got me. The tea notes tone down the sweetness of the neroli which is generally what turns me off from orange blossom perfumes. I love it.
I will never forget my initial response when I first sniffer NO. I literally gasped! So breathtaking.
*sniffed ????
Right? I think I might have loved it even more because I didn’t expect much when I first got it. I had zero expectations. It’s so great when that happens.
It sounds like a must-try!
Wow, I am SO out of it! I haven’t even heard of that one, and now I’m compelled to sample it. Thanks!
DO IT! I didn’t expect much given my previous experience with neroli but it knocked my socks off.
Hi Angela,
I love your description of SL’s Fleurs d’Oranger – it reminds me of riding horseback through FL orange groves as a teen. I also love Fleur d`Oranger 27 by Le Labo, it seems to last forever on my skin and is pretty linear but I do love it.
“Riding horseback through GL orange groves”–perfect!
“These brides have glossy lips, unseasonal tans and red carpet heels.” Hahhaha. ‘unseasonal tan’, i think of orange skin matching the orange of the orange if you know what i mean ????
My only real orange-y fragrance (being more than a sample) is Dilettante by Hiram Green!
Dilettante is fantastic!
The HG was rather skanky on me, I wonder what note I am picking up on there? The L’Artisans are very clean.
Yet another reason I must try it….
Dilettante is the only Hiram Green I haven’t smelled!
I don’t associate orange blossom with cleaning products they way you do Angela. I think you’ve commented on this before and I’ve been puzzled. I’m in Australia and I think we mainly get lemon and pine scented stuff. Eucalyptus as well I suppose.
So I’ve always been free to enjoy OB on its own merits but while I went through a big OB phase and have owned or tried four of the five on your list, I don’t own wear any of them now. I agree with you about 24F. Lovely, but it cares too much what people think. Funny, I wear other formal perfumes (Chanel No 5, No 19, Rive Gauche) quite happily and can coax them out of their stiff demeanors, but 24F just won’t play.
Orange blossom is popular in soap and laundry detergent here, although we do have at least one whopper pine scent–good old Pinesol. I love the idea of a eucalyptus-scented cleanser.
Thanks for the great list Angela! I adore orange blossom and neroli scents in the summer. If a perfume genie gave me three wishes, my first wish would be for L’AP special harvest Fleur d’Oranger. A lovely NSTer sent me a decant several years ago. I have a tiny bit left that I’ve saved just so I can smell it occasionally. It is incredible! I hope to try their Histories d’Oranger at some point. I’ve never thought of 24 Faubourg as an orange blossom scent. My bottle is old and in my mind, it’s a BWF with $$. ???? AG Neroli (cylindrical bottle) is my fav neroli.
Nice rundown! AG Neroli is getting some love today.
I’m iffy on orange blossom (and neroli) scents: they generally tend to veer either grape-soda sweet or triple-milled soap on me, and don’t smell anything like the real-life version.
If I *want* to smell like very good soap, 24, Faubourg is a nice way to do that. The Elie Saab was pretty and sparkly up top, but so full of Coco Mademoiselle-type screechy-clean patchouli that I just cannot stand it after the first twenty minutes. Seville a l’Aube I liked very much, but I used up my sample and didn’t feel the need to buy more.
If I may ask – have you smelled the current version of SL Fleurs d’Oranger? I got a fresh sample in 2014, and was surprised to find zero skank in it. I mean nada. It was really nice, and about half tuberose anyway, and I did not notice any cumin at all. (Maybe it’s me.)
I do love BK Sweet Redemption, even though it’s a big ol’ orange blossom-root beer lollipop. There are times I want to smell like candy AND flowers.
First, let me say that I love your descriptions of all of these. As for Fleurs d’Oranger, I do still smell cumin, but not as much as I remember in the past.
I don’t get any skank at all from SL either.
I love orange blossom most of the time. The Elie Saab is too high pitched for me, your description is right on the money.
4711 is always a favorite, I can wear it any time and enjoy those first few minutes over and over again. It does make me think of soap in a good way.
I like Seville but the waxiness is challenging for me.
I have a sample of Histoires d’Orangers that I just dabbed on my hand for the first time and it is very very good! I will try it again over more skin tomorrow.
And thank you for educating me about Narcisse Noir. I have a decant I’ve only used in the tiniest amounts because it has “Noir” in the name. I must use it bravely and boldly next time I’m craving orange blossom.
Wonderful article, I’ve not felt this excited about perfume for I don’t know how long!
I’m excited that you’re excited! Enjoy your orange blossom explorations……
Hi Angela, yesterday I had a wonderful day out in London, and tried Vero Profumo Rubj and Onda in edp, at Bloom Perfumery in Covent Garden, anyone in London do make a visit, it’s amazing, and the SA knowledgable and passionate. They have been on my list for a long time, since I first read you’re intriguing review of Rubj, my taste is very similar to yours, and I know now that if u love a perfume I almost certainly will! I adored both, and hopefully will get Rubj for my birthday in May.
I also love Séville à l’Aube, and can’t wait to try Onda in Voile and extrait.
What a fabulous outing! I hope someday I’ll be able to visit Bloom Perfumery, too–if they carry Vero Profumo, they must have some terrific brands. I hope in May you unwrap a bottle of Rubj!
Funnily enough, I love iris, galbanum, AND orange blossom. Am I Franco-American?
Favorite scents with orange blossom notes: Chanel no22, the queen; also, vintage L’Origan and Bottega Veneta Knot. And probably some others that I’m forgetting.
Sorry I’m a week late to the blossom party!
Oh, I forgot about Bottega Veneta Knot! That’s such a good one, too. Maybe you do have a French father and American mother…..
No, no French ancestry on either side . . . but my mother did have varied and sophisticated tastes in scent.