Two weeks ago, I mused about chestnut perfumes. The topic must still be on my mind, because I just unearthed a vial of Aroma M Geisha Marron in a bag of samples on my desk and decided to give it another spin. Geisha Marron was originally released as an oil (in a roll-on bottle) in 2006, but Aroma M's founder and perfumer, Maria McElroy, launched a new Eau de Parfum concentration in 2017.
Like its "sisters" in the Geisha collection, Marron is an interpretation of a color —in this case, brown. Its composition includes notes of grapefruit, mandarin, bergamot, muguet, chestnut blossom, magnolia, leather and musk, combined to make Geisha Marron a spiced fruity-floral fragrance that would be a good introduction to the rest of the line.
On my skin, Marron lives up to its description as the "scent of succulent overripeness, of sweetness that dares to skirt the edge of seductive decay." It starts off with an accord that reminds me of candied nuts, sort of sugared and woody at the same time. However, Marron isn't a purely gourmand fragrance: the blossoms of the chestnut tree end up playing a stronger role than its nuts. The white florals are creamy rather than indolic, and the fruit notes remind me of overripe peaches. The fragrance's dry down is a fruity amber with hints of honey and patchouli.
I used to have a sample of Geisha Marron in its original perfume oil concentration, and this new Eau de Parfum feels airier and a little brighter to me, like the composition has been given space to stretch out and let the light in. It doesn't last as long on my skin as the oil used to, but that's to be expected of an alcohol-based version. It cheered me up on a windy gray day the way a colorful patterned scarf might do.
Geisha Marron won't replace Geisha Violet or Nobara-Cha as my Aroma M favorite, but I like its feeling of easygoing chic. I'd recommend it to women who are just starting to explore niche or indie fragrances, since it's so wearable and smooth, without the quirk of Geisha Green or the drama of Geisha Noire — although I'd hope that they'd work their way up to those, too!
Aroma M Geisha Marron is available in 50 ml Eau de Parfum ($100) or .25 oz. Perfume Oil roll-on ($60). For buying information, see the listing for Aroma M under Perfume Houses.