Prada Amber Pour Homme is the latest fragrance release, and the first for men, from the house of Prada. It was developed by perfumer Daniela Andrier, and centers on four accords: an amber accord, as in the original Prada Eau de Parfum for women, a fougère accord, a fresh cologne accord, and a suede accord. The notes include bergamot, mandarin, neroli, cardamom, geranium, vetiver, orange blossom, myrrh, nirvanolide musk, labdanum, sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, saffron, patchouli and leather.
Prada Amber Pour Homme is not at all what I expected, being less obviously based on the amber of the women's Eau de Parfum than I had imagined it would be. It is actually pretty well described by the ad copy: it smells like the four accords listed above, with the citrus/fresh cologne strongest in the top notes, and the suede most evident in the dry down, although even then, it is a very soft suede. The amber is there but likewise subtle, the fougère accord is very mild (if there is lavender here, it is very much under control), and there are hints of warm earth and pale woods. It is sweeter than the women's versions, but I wouldn't go so far as to call it sweet.
The four accords are tied together by soft but persistent soapy undertones — what Amber Pour Homme smells like as much as anything is a very expensive, very creamy men's soap, a soap that your average person (e.g., me) couldn't afford and wouldn't know where to buy anyway. In that sense, it reminds me very much of Hermès Caleche, and as with Caleche, I would describe Amber Pour Homme as elegant and sophisticated in a very quiet way, without hitting anyone over the head about it.
Amber Pour Homme is being advertised as sensual — what fragrance isn't? — and perhaps it is, but it has a rather conversative, even sober quality about it. I would call it soothing more than sexy, and the man that I picture wearing it bears no relationship to the boy in the ad: he is older, more dignified, and better (more?) dressed.
It is certainly an overtly masculine scent, but it is mellow enough that it will be easily borrowed by those women who don't mind buying on the other side of the aisle. If you would wear Guerlain Vetiver or Christian Dior Eau Sauvage, you won't have a problem wearing Prada Homme. It is easily my favorite of the Prada releases so far, and I'll be waiting impatiently for it to show up at the online fragrance discounters.
Miuccia Prada, the Italian designer who built her grandfather's leather goods company into a modern luxury conglomerate, was apparently very much involved in the development of Amber Pour Homme:
"I felt like a nose, it was the best job, I had fun creating the fragrance," said Prada...
"I just tried to imagine what I would like if I were a man. You know people ask me if there is a muse, an inspiration, a thought driving my ideas, but I just know what I like," said Prada.
The designer said she had always been fascinated with fragrance and that part of the reason for creating a perfume portfolio for the brand stemmed from the fact that she could no longer find something she liked to wear. (via Women's Wear Daily, 6/30/2006)
Of course, rare indeed is the designer (or celebrity) who admits that they left the creation of their latest fragrance release up to a marketing committee, but for some reason this statement rings true to me, at least for Prada Eau de Parfum and Prada Amber Pour Homme. Both fragrances smell like they were created to please the tastes of an individual rather than to sell to millions, or to make any bold statements about the brand behind them.
Prada Amber Pour Homme is available now at Neiman Marcus, where they are calling it Prada Man. The line will include 50 and 100 ml bottles of Eau de Toilette, a deluxe 100 ml bottle with atomizer, and eventually After Shave Balm, After Shave Lotion, Bath & Shower Gel and Deodorant Spray.
Note: top image via Images de Parfums
Robin, thank you for this insightful review, I now know Prada Homme is definitely something I would love. I was wary of the lavender, but thankfully you say it is subdued. A warm, subtle, elegant and soothing amber — a lemming is born!
Thank you for a lovely review. I encountered a scent strip of this in a magazine, and I wante dit for me, not my man.
You already know how much I love this — I find it easily the most wearable of the Pradas. I agree with your assessment that it's sweeter than the other Pradas — to me it is more feminine than the original, even with the fougere; there is something very masculine to me about the original Prada, which you like better than I do, I think. Anyway, I'm happy you liked this one, to me it fills a hole in the ol' fragrance wardrobe I didn't know I had! And you're right, there is something comforting about it. I think it will be glorious this fall.
PS Okay, I know I'm just getting old and grumpy, but the boy in that ad is absurd. This is not a fragrance that screams “urchin.” Where is the handsome man who would wear this?
I do want to try this now that I know it's not that much like the women's Prada, which I didn't love.
You will have to tell me if you smell any lavender at all…I can't say I do. It is a very “well blended” scent in general…none of the notes really stand out. Do hope you will love it! Have seen some less than glowing reviews from men on Perfume of Life & Basenotes.
It will be interesting if this one ends up selling better to the women than the men…
M, interesting. Neither Prada nor Prada Intense strike me as particularly feminine, although I often see them described that way. I think a man could easily wear either. Amber Pour Homme one strikes me as masculine, but not in an overbearing, M7 kind of way, and actually, I'd love to see them do a feminine version of this fragrance: keep the base, amp up the saffron & cardamom, add a few more flowers.
It is true that he doesn't match the fragrance in the least, but he is easy enough on the eyes that I can't complain
T, curious if you will like it…
I hate to pick on the Prada ads again (they *are* better than many) and I agree he's cute, but he does look very much like a Central European Artful Dodger. It's like he lifted the coat after asking “Shine your shoes, Guv-nah?”
It was all going so well, and then you said, soap…And then you said, conservative. Oh well
M, I only very rarely like soapy fragrances — do love Caleche, and Thierry Mugler Cologne. Don't know if you will like this or not though.
LOL…true enough!
And after I held up the Prada ads as more dignified than most, saw an ad for the women's Prada in this month's Allure that has a completely different tone than the older one I posted.
I tried this the other day in Neiman Marcus and I was really really disappointed. It did not strike me as anything particularly new or exciting, I found it rather droll. It was difficult for me to even imagine a time when I would want to wear this fragrance if I had bought it. I couldn't find the amber, which is what I was really waiting for (and rightly so considering the name.) Beautiful bottle though. Hopefully she'll do antoher mens fragrance…
Tigs-
You made me HOWL !!!
You're not old and grumpy, babe- he's just a wee bit of crumpet…
We need men with mileage [MWM?],but toys are cunning,too.
I lost interest in this type millenia ago…
I like Cologne and love Caleche. Just got a bottle of vintage parfum of the latter, cannot wait for it arrive to see how it compares to the modern version. That is, if it is actually in any kind of smell-able condition.
Then why is the Prada Amber off your radar? Soapy & conservative would just as well describe Caleche, no?
I can't argue: it doesn't smell new or exciting to me either, although personally I do think it smells wonderful. But anyone looking for exciting, or for lots of amber, is bound to be disappointed.
Good point. Very good point
I can't claim I don't like soapy and conservative if I like Caleche. Allrighty, will have to try Prada Amber.
I've had this for about three or four months now, I bought it because when I tried it on my skin in a store, I just felt like a million dollars. It is a wonderfully smooth and elegant fragrance which is cultured all the way from top notes to dry down.
This is one of the scents I get women going “wow, you smell fantastic, what are you wearing?” most.
I don't think there will ever be a time in my life where I wouldn't want to have this in my collection. An excellent creation and I look forward to Prada's other offerings for men in the future.
I wish they'd do another men's already. A male version of Infusion d'Iris is rumored, but we'll see!
I'd buy it on the spot.
I am sooo jealous that my wife gets to wear Infusion D'Iris. I couldn't wear it though, it is too obviously female. My God, a male version of that with a little oakmoss or say, cedarwood to root it in the drydown would be great. You couldn't use patchouli or sandalwood, they'd be too heavy, vetiver would be too light perhaps, oh what the heck, their team is doing a great job I'm sure they'd do the right thing.
They should call it Infusion D'Homme Sans Pareille.
this one smells so incredible, that I just want to spray my husband with it and roll around on him. (not in a dirty way, just roll). I make him spray it on when he gets home from work, not when he goes out.
I agree that it seems like it is for an older man.
After I bought this, I tried the women's Pradas, hoping there would be one that would appeal to me for me as much as this one does, but no. I don't think I would wear it either.
I like this one better than the women's too…other than the Infusion d'Iris, which I love. Can't wait to see what they do next…
Just an addition to earlier comments really.
I have smelled and tested the new Prada fragrance for men and I can confirm it is very definitely NOT a male version of Infusion D'Iris.
Called (at time of writing) I believe Infusion D'Homme, the over-riding note is Neroli. In fact, when I tried it, the main topnotes were neroli, the heart notes were the faintest whiff of Iris and more Neroli and in the drydown… yep a bit more Neroli.
I suggest anyone wanting a male smelling Infusion D'Iris, either just wears that or wears their existing Prada Homme and mists Hiris by Hermes over the top (a combination I use frequently and it's fantastic).
Thanks, that sounds quite different from what I imagined. Still, I like neroli, so will look forward to trying it.
I found and tried it yesterday and I thought Infusion d'Homme is a more linear version of Infusion d'Iris, which I love and prefer. I smell more cedar in Id'Iris and the beautiful citrus (mandarine) opening is lacking in Id'Homme, which instead has a soapier opening (neroli) very light vetiver note and something very very faint that reminds me of almond. I absolutely adore neroli, but for some reason here it's different. I didn't even recognize it as neroli straight away. It's very powdery. A first impression was also that it is halfway between Id'I and Amber pH. Why introduce something so similar? Don't get me wrong, it's a great, way above average men's fragrance, but I don't see the point. It seems to me Prada feared they'd not reach as many customers if they'd introduced Id'Iris as unisex, which I believe it should be marketed as. I want to buy I'd Iris, I don't find it less masculine than Id'H (I'm a man, though open-minded towards women's perfumes if they are not fruity or too flowery). I'm curious what others think!
Funny you suggest Hiris over Amber pH, actually Id'H reminded me of Hiris – I think the iris note is at least as dominant in it as in Id'Iris!
I've still only tried IdH very quickly. I was surprised at how close it was to IdI, but still haven't had the chance to wear them both together. Based on that first test, I'd say I like the women's better too, but absolutely agree they might as well have marketed IdI as unisex and have done with it.
I LOATHE all traditional men's fragrances but found an exception in this. I always found all colognes as soapy and sharp and antiseptic-smelling but my boy now lives in Prada & I love it. Give it a chance, for sure.
Glad you guys like it
I think I prefer infusion d’iris to the LdH. But I still wear amber cos it makes me smell clean.
It’s like something that makes me feel satisfied.
I like them all
I’ve been perusing and sniffing this lone enigmatic fragrance for a few months now, and, having finally taken the recommendation of the sales manager, gone for the 100ml. It reminds me of Angel, or that group of scents, but with a touch more restraint.
I’m looking forward to using it as my main work fragrance, once the last few ml of my Richard James is gone…
Do you only wear one at a time then?
LOL, well since I’ve gone from none to 5 perfume purchases in the last year, I’m trying to be rational and finish the ‘oldest’ off first before diving into the others as my mood takes me
Hey, that’s sensible — I should do the same!
I suppose so, except I’ve read conflicting reports about the ideal use by time for perfume, so I think you have excuse enough to spray what, when and how many…one at a time, or all at once! LOL!
I’m going to be really decadent and allow myself to use the Prada AND my Eternity Summer next, (Richard James got squirted off last night). I’ve actually held off ripping opening my D&G The One and A-Men Pure Coffee for now, despite the bargains they’ve been; they’ll have to wait till Winter…okay, Autumn
Really hard to know how long a bottle will last — too many different factors. But it’s one reason I try to use instead of hoard!
Ah, well, it’s all moot: I’m working on my Eternity Summer for Men for now.
“Eternity….limited time offer”
Was it only me who got suffocated with the over powering juniper smell ?
Don’t know, but it wasn’t me!
So far in my travels, this is the first-ever commercial fragrance release that made me want to bathe in it. Absolutely fantastic stuff.
Made me go over to luckyscent.com and scour the Amber category for samples – it’s simply a must-have for any man who knows what Good smells like. Instant all-time fave.
I love it too! Personally I wouldn’t put it in the Amber category though…
love this one by Prada!!! used to wear it when it first came out and got alot of comps…. just last week went to ross with a friend a found a bottle for dirt cheap!!! had to come back here to let everyone know how great this one is…. goes perfect for work,, everyone is always suited up, very elegant and ambery
I’ll have to check Ross, thanks!