He describes his approach thus: ‘I don’t recall ever having challenged a scent in this way. Firstly, in a physical, hedonistic way, because I wanted to snatch the fragrance of these flowers from the dawn sky, together with that of the foliage that envelops them. And then, in a cerebral way, I worked on the coolness of its aura, the delicacy of its opalescence and the ethereal nature of its existence.’
[...] Sadly, 'Muguet Porcelaine' is Jean-Claude Ellena’s final perfume as Hermès’ in-house perfumer, but it’s a sparkling swansong: this is what we call going out on a high.
— Read more at 'Muguet Porcelaine': Jean-Claude Ellena’s sparkling swansong for Hermès at Wallpaper.
Thanks for this Robin, what a wonderful way of describing the aim of making a perfume. Must make sure I try this soon.
He does know how to talk to the press
I never understood he was coing to quit. I just hope he doesn’t rerire entirely.
It would be intetesting to learn how he created a true LOTV smell. Edmond Roudnitska could do it thanks to Hydroxy Citronellal, which smells like the most skeletal aspect of the flower. And that aroma-chemical is banned completely, I think.
He’s been talking about retiring for a few years. I guess this is the last. No idea if he’ll do anything with other brands now.
If only reality reflected the rhetoric! All I got from Muguet Porcelaine is melon and cucumber… horrible!
There’s always Diorissimo
I don’t know I think Diorissimo s reformulation is awful, the rendition so pale.
I like Guerlain Muguet the best right now, more feminine and classic than the Hermes.
What a lovely piece, I hope it is good, I haven’t tried it.