(Relatively) quick reviews of Morn to Dusk from Eau d'Italie and the Giverny in Bloom collection from Dawn Spencer Hurwitz.
Eau d'Italie Morn to Dusk
The oddly-named Morn to Dusk is the latest from Italian niche line Eau d’Italie; it promises a "sensual feeling that wraps like a veil of gold, from morning till the sun sets" and "the Italian way to Vanilla: simply irresistible". That translates into a sheer, summer-weight vanilla musk, sugared but too light to be foody in the usual sense, with a pale floral heart. Sheer vanilla musks are not so very hard to come by, and often for far less money than they charge for this one; I had a hard time getting excited about it even though it's well done (possibly more than most) and easy to wear. If you are still searching for a light vanilla that doesn't smell like it's geared towards pre-teens, Morn to Dusk might suit. While a man could certainly wear it, it probably skews to the feminine side of unisex.
If you want a sophisticated sheer vanilla that's a bit less "plain" than Morn to Dusk, you might try Diptyque's Eau Duelle or Jo Malone Vanilla & Anise. Both cost less, plus they can be found in smaller sizes. Please do comment if you can think of more suggestions!
Eau d'Italie Morn to Dusk was developed by perfumer Annick Menardo, and features bergamot, lily of the valley, Bourbon vanilla, sugar orchid and musk. It is available in 100 ml Eau de Parfum, $140. For buying information, see the listing for Eau d’Italie under Perfume Houses.
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Giverny in Bloom
Fans of pretty florals would do well to explore some of the recent offerings from indie line Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. Jessica already reviewed the dewy carnation Fleuriste, and today I'm looking at the Giverny In Bloom quartet. The four were used to create a 'scent experience' at the Denver Art Museum exhibit In Bloom: Painting Flowers in the Age of Impressionism:
DSH has created Monet’s garden at Giverny in 3 accords to create the full panoramic effect: Le Jardin Vert (the green foliage, trees, and moist earth), La Danse des Bleus et des Violettes (the gauzy dance of violets, irises, and lilacs), and l’Opera des Rouges et des Roses (the dramatic opera of old roses, peonies, and carnations). The scent experience all came together to a final piece with each accord woven together, which is the “Giverny In Bloom” scent: the aroma created in the scent experience space.
Since I adore green, I went right for the Le Jardin Vert, and yes, if I was going to buy only one of the four, this would be the one. It's a lively bright green, bitter but not too bitter, encompassing the scent of crushed fresh leaves and stems, and still-green pine needles. It has a damp earth backdrop with hints of tree bark and a mild floral sweetness in which you can just make out the linden (I think it also has rose). It's ever-so-vaguely reminiscent of CB I Hate Perfume Black March, but without that scent's melancholy edge: it's happier and prettier, maybe closer to Enchanted April than Black March.
La Danse des Bleus et des Violettes and l’Opera des Rouges et des Roses are floral blends, each charming in its own way, but worn singly, they did not hold my attention as much as the Giverny in Bloom fragrance, in which you can indeed discern all the elements of the other three "accords". If I was going to recommend just one fragrance from the four, it would be Giverny in Bloom: it's an elegant, wearable, middle-weight modern floral that works well as "an impressionist perfume depicting Monet’s flower garden at Giverny".
Better yet, if your budget permits, would be to buy a set and experiment with layering, since they all play so nicely with each other. You can start with Giverny in Bloom and amplify the parts you like best using the other 3, or you can make your own combination. I was taken with La Danse des Bleus et des Violettes and a touch of Le Jardin Vert, but my absolute favorite was one spray of Giverny in Bloom layered with one or two sprays of Le Jardin Vert. (Fleuriste, which is not in this set, was also interesting with a spray of Le Jardin Vert: it became a carnation blooming in the garden instead of one already chilling in the florist's fridge.)
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Giverny In Bloom, La Danse des Bleus et des Violettes, l’Opera des Rouges et des Roses and Le Jardin Vert are available in a variety of sizes and formats, individually or in sets. There is a discovery set with four 3 ml sprays ($48) and a coffret of mini flask bottles (shown above, sorry but I don't know the size of the bottles; $70). A sample set is $24.
Oh, this Monet set sounds like so much fun.
I had a lot of fun playing with them!
I’m still learning to love vanilla. Most seem to smell like cupcakes. But I have liked some lighter, sheer vanillas, so I might have try this one as well.
If you’re willing to go to a heavier weight fragrance, you might also check out the last 2 vanillas I reviewed…
https://nstperfume.com/2015/04/29/vanilla-x-2-fragrance-reviews/
Oh yeah, I wanted to try the Tauerville; forgot all about it! It sounds non-cupcakey. And I’m a sucker for anything that comes in a rollerball because, well, I’m cheap. Thanks for reminding me!
Hope it works!
I tried Morn to Dusk and found it pleasantly boring. I didn’t get much floral, just light, powdery vanilla. For light, sheer vanilla I have Les Couvents Eau de Missions which has a touch of incense to make it less foody and a much better price tag.
I like the concept of this DSH project and would be curious to try them.
I am surprised still at how “basic” it feels, even if very well done. I kept wanting to layer it with something. Or just wear Prada Candy and be done with it…
If I want vanilla I will go for Shalimar Vanille flanker or Vanilla Insensee Cologne from Atelier.
Good recs, thanks, and the Atelier has the bonus of being sold in 30 ml.
Van C&A Orchidee Vanille is available in 50ml and i regard this as one of the most sophisticated ethereal vanilla out there – without incense or leather or complex spices.
The name Morn to Dusk really minds me of that vampire movie – ‘Dusk til Dawn’! However, it doesn’t sound at all suited to the B grade flick 🙂
I thought the same thing about the name! love that movie!
It did have Juliette Lewis!
It’s a personal problem, but I almost cannot stand that the name is Morn to Dusk instead of Dawn to Dusk. Makes me crazy to type it.
And thanks, I should smell the VCA again!
I think VCA is about as refined as vanilla can go 🙂
I’m not a vanilla person, so don’t have recommendations, but this review reminded me that I have a sample of Eau Duelle. And yes, I must admit, it smells nice (I’m about 7 minutes in).
Also, really, really need to get me some DSH stuff to try. It’s the shipping that puts me off, you never know how it’ll work out.
It’s true that when testing indie, best to stick with indie local!
I did not adore Eau Duelle, but much prefer it to the Morn to Dusk.
I really liked Morn to Dusk–it was so golden on me. Really tenacious too–I thought I had showered it off and then realized it was still there when I sampled Au The Bleu and wasn’t matching reviews. They layer really nicely together. If Metallica were still available THAT would be my first choice for a golden vanilla.
Thanks for chiming in, good to hear it has fans, and should try it now with the Au The Bleu!
I was going to recommend L’AP Vanille Absolument, which I love, but it’s DISCONTINUED!?! Wilco Tango Foxtrot, L’Artisan.
Not that L’Artisan is a less expensive option, but the bottles are better than Ed’I.
Timing is against the DSHs – I’m ready for fall scents!
I know, I am late with all of these! I will do something more fall-like next week.
And seriously, just can’t believe they discontinued that one. Actually, can’t believe it didn’t sell better, it’s a surprise.
Having a morning laugh thanks to Wilco Tango Foxtrot 🙂
Annikky
Lolita Lempicka au Masculin is another off-dry floral vanilla musk but with licorice. It is excellent and can be had for a song and is totally unisex, maybe even leaning feminine.
Good point! I want to try the new Intense version but never see the LL brand in stores these days.
Maybe Noir Tropical from Maria Candida Gentile. I’ve never worn it, but on the strip it seems to fit. It’s no cheaper but at least MCG generally seems to sell a travel size.
Thank you — I think I have not yet smelled that one at all, and the 15 ml size is definitely a plus.
Curses. Dawn KEEPS doing stuff I want.
At least they don’t cost an arm and a kidney?