No, it isn't fall yet, but in case you're planning ahead (or just sick of summer), here are five iris fragrances to consider as the air takes on a bit of a chill and darkness falls a bit earlier every day. If you missed it, do see my list of iris picks for summer.
Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue: I included "regular" Infusion d'Iris on my summer list, but the Absolue version is the one I reach for more often, year round. As you'd expect from the name, it's more: more iris-y, more earthy / rooty, more buttery, more everything. It smells more expensive than the regular, but it's really only a few extra dollars, plus, the bottle looks great in gold. Beware, though, it was a limited edition and may not be around forever (I checked, it's still for sale as of now).
Byredo 1996 Inez & Vinoodh: After the fruit-bomb Pulp, 1996 is easily my favorite of the offerings from Swedish niche line Byredo. 1996 is a perfect match for a perfect fall day — it starts cool and crisp but warms up nicely with a mild leather-patchouli base, and it continues to warm up the longer it's on skin.
Divine L'Homme de Coeur: It's easy to forget about French niche line Divine — they're not flashy, they don't do ten new releases a year, I doubt there's ever been a profile of the owner in Vogue. But there are some real beauties in their range, including this fantastic composition from perfumer Yann Vasnier. When I reviewed it, I noted that its brisk aromatic aura was "perfectly evocative of a crisp fall day spent tramping through the fields". It's easily the most masculine of the five listed here, but a woman could pull it off.
L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzongkha: L'Artisan says "temple stones and incense, the sweet aroma of spiced chai tea, the heat of warm leather around fires, the heart of any temple or home in snowbound lands", and Bertrand Duchaufour's Dzongkha very nearly lives up to the hyperbole. It should appeal to iris or incense lovers alike, and with any luck, L'Artisan won't discontinue it (but I do hear rumors so I wouldn't count on it).
Thierry Mugler Oriental Express: I thought about including the ultra-fabulous Honoré des Prés I Love Les Carottes, but even I would admit it's possibly an acquired taste. The Mugler tones down the vegetables a bit, and adds enough spices, woods and creamy powder to make it stand up to fall weather. Iris lovers who have not tried it yet (I rarely hear it mentioned!) should really give it a try.
What are your picks?
Note: top image is Iris [cropped] by Uzair.saeed at flickr; some rights reserved.
If you’re in the UK, the Infusion d’Iris Absolue is much cheaper than the original EDP if you look in the right places. It’s available in certain TK Maxx stores and online for as little as £29/50ml!
Good to know, thanks!
I’ve been trying to imagine an Iris Apfel perfume…
Oh, what fun that would be! (Maybe, doesn’t always work out, does it?)
I still haven’t smelled the Diana Vreelands because…
Yeah. Don’t.
I’d love a perfume that matches her style and personality!
What she actually wears, apparently, is her late husband’s Yatagan, and she used to wear Mitsouko.
https://intothegloss.com/2012/01/iris-apfel/
Yatagan, that’s fantastic, thanks!
Yatagan crossed with Florentine Iris….??? wouldn’t that be just like Ms. Apfel!?! 😉
I think you are on to something!
Thanks so much for the link. I really enjoyed the interview. I feel straightened out and shook off, all in a good way!
Isn’t she great? Talk about sparky. Thanks for the link.
Ahhh, iris. And a list. I’ve been craving Iris Nazarena these last days, it’ll make a perfect autumn iris, I think. Another one I’ve been thinking about is Ormonde Jayne Orris Noir – I don’t remember it that well, but have a feeling it would fit, too. And although I wear No 19 whatever the season, I find it’s especially good at this time of the year. Good to see Divine on the list! I haven’t tried the Mugler, but it sounds wonderful.
PS Would you consider doing vetiver next year?
I’ve got IN and ON both penciled in for winter — one of the funny things about doing these is how differently we all perceive what’s best for each season. Then again, I don’t always wear what I think is best for the season, I just wear what I feel like wearing 🙂
Absolutely!
I think both are great for winter, too. Or for any time of the year, for that matter. I’m not very seasonal in what I wear, unless it’s horribly hot and it almost never is.
I Love I Love Les Carottes (says Boutros Boutros-Ghali), but it seems like an intensely spring-y iris to me, for some reason. I guess the shoulder seasons can work together, though. Happy to see the Divine pick, which I always forget about. I’d include Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile EdP in here, especially with the orange iris image, but I know that’s not your favourite.
Could be spring-y, I do think of Hiris as spring-y — the Mugler is definitely warmer and better for fall.
I have an email to you started off, I will finish it soon! It’s nag time!
This reminds me of Your Highness, your highness.
And I too adore Carottes. Not an acquired taste at all 😉
Dzongka makes sense to me. I’ll also wear SL Iris Silver Mist during the day, and, as the nights cool, the warmth of AG Heure Exquise will become more and more necessary for bedtime.
ISM is on my winter list, but works either way 🙂
Only Iris can make me delurk for a bit.I’ll add Equistrius to your list Robin,it’s one of those perfumes that-to my nose-hover between warm and fuzzy and cool/aloof.Perfect for either inbetween seasons of Spring/Fall.Happy Weekend all!
Ha, we hooked you!
Good to see you again, johanob!
Yes, I should find my sample (not easy these days, some organization is definitely in order).
I mean to try this soon!
Agree with AdP Iris Nobile and Heure Exquise. Been wanting to try Oriental Express since it came out–it’s at Nordstrom.com, but not at any of the stores near me, darn it.
I have not seen it “in person” either. Shame TM keeps them so tightly distributed.
If it has to be only iris, I would take Hermès Hiris as the main theme and layer it with either 28 La Pausa or Misia for support. To contrast, I would try something woody or citrusy. I like the understated quality of this iris.
Interesting!
I agree… Hiris is THE Iris fragrance I immediately think of when I think of Iris, Spring, Summer, Winter, Fall. It’s just so RAVISHING!! I also Like for Myself and for Women, The last Eponymous Gianfranco Ferre Fragrances for Women and Men which are both built around Iris and are GORGEOUS!
Hiris is great stuff.
If L’Artisan discontues Dzongkha, my heard will break. The only fragrance I’ve bought twice andam planning on buying another very soon.
I never cared for Infusion d’Iris–it’s fruitiness reminds me more of junk cereal than a farmers market. That said, I’d try the absolute if I saw a tester.
For my own list, 31 Rue Cambon. I honestly don’t think that’s cheating but your opinion may vary.
I think all the chanel exclusives are fair game.
Seriously! Not a slight to Chanel, but that slug of iris is in everything!
Love me, love my iris.
Not cheating! The only reason I didn’t mention Rue Cambon (I absolutely adore it), is that it’s truly seasonless for me, even more so than No 19.
Hey, there are no rules so no cheating.
Two thumbs up for I Love Les Carottes! Love that stuff 😉
Do they even still make these? I loved Vamp à NY. 🙁
It’s such a great scent.
I’ve got two that didn’t make your list!
I get my incense-iris fix from Dior’s Bois d’Argent (a lovely honeyed myrrh iris) and my cushy iris from Equistrius (iris with a dusting of cocoa powder).
I think the cocoa is why I did not love Equistrius? I didn’t like Iris Ganache either.
There can never be too many irises listed or otherwise. I’m really glad to see a mention of L’homme de cœur is such a great rendition of iris, and yes Divine doesn’t get mentioned a lot, except by myself perhaps. I’m a huge fan of the line.
I like Dior Homme for autumn as well, but I think it’s not one of your favourites. I still have to retry Infusion d’Iris Absolue which I didn’t enjoy on first try.
I never see these Muglers that get mentioned here and on other blogs. The only ones I come across are Angel and Alien and Womanity.
No, don’t love Dior Homme, but also easily confused by Dior’s constant reformulations! Doubt what they’re making now is even the one I didn’t love.
Oh the Byredo 1996..it is just so wonderful. I had to buy it, even though it is heavy on the prize…I just couldn’t resist 🙂
I love it so much doing Autumn time 🙂
Other iris scents I adore doing this time of the year is: Dior Homme, Le Labo Iris 39 and Hiris by Hermés 🙂
Lovely list, Robin 🙂 Haven’t tried them all, coz we don’t have all the brands here in Denmark 🙂
Congrats, I’d like to have a bottle of 1996 myself. And hey, we don’t get all the brands here either!
I’ve been realizing that I really like Yann Vasnier.
I’ll put in a vote for another Byredo, Seven Veils. Very unusual iris/carrot accord that turns into a spicy vanilla.
I think Seven Veils is still hanging around in my purgatory basket, waiting for a 3rd shot 🙂
VC&A Bois d’Iris is more of a fall winter Iris, with that soothing woody dry down. Also FM Iris Poudre is my year round go to Iris, and it has a warmer sweeter drydown that works in cooler weather…this is a great topic, I now have several more Iris scents to put on my to try list!
Good!