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5 perfumes: iris fragrances for summer

Posted by Robin on 9 June 2015 90 Comments

Iris in vase

Iris is one of my favorite perfume notes, but some versions are arguably too earthy and deep for really hot weather, to say nothing of really hot humid weather. Here are five that won't overwhelm when the mercury climbs:

Prada's Infusion d'Iris: The gold standard for a summer iris perfume is probably Prada's light-as-air Infusion d'Iris, which many of us wear year-round. If even the gauzy Eau de Parfum is too much for you, you could try the lighter, more citrus-y Eau de Toilette, or the (soapier) masculine counterpart (which a woman could easily wear), Infusion d'Homme. (Note that Prada is revamping the Infusion line this year, so we'll have to wait and see which versions survive the cut. For now though, both the Eau de Toilette and the Infusion d'Homme can be easily found in stores.)

Penhaligon's Iris Prima: Iris Prima is as undemanding and easy to wear as Infusion d'Iris, but it's also more overtly 'pretty' than the Prada. It manages to stay in unisex territory, though, and if the Prada did not already exist, I probably would have loved it more than I did.

By Kilian's Prelude to Love: Moving up the price scale, Prelude to Love is another light-ish unisex iris. It does get earthy eventually, but the orange blossom and citrus are equal players in the mix, and they last long enough into the dry down to give Prelude to Love a summer-appropriate feel. I kvetched about the price when it launched, but now that you can find it in travel sizes I'm feeling a bit less cranky.

L'Occitane Iris Bleu & Iris Blanc: If they hadn't discontinued it, Crabtree & Evelyn Iris would be my pick for a simple but pretty, reasonably priced iris. Alas, it's gone. Iris Bleu & Iris Blanc isn't quite as reasonably priced, and it's too clean for me personally, but it makes a decent starter iris, especially if you like your fragrances clean. If you like clean and basic and want to spend more, you could try Aerin Iris Meadow, although I don't think it's as good as the L'Occitane.

Parfums DelRae Mythique: Like the Prada, a season-less 'veil of scent'. Angie described Mythique as "buttery iris and fresh, green suede with a breath of salt" AND as "leather chiffon underwear" — who can resist?

And do chime in — what are your picks for summer iris?

Note: top image is Purple Iris in Vase [cropped] by cbransto at flickr; some rights reserved.

More summer recommendations...

5 perfumes: incense fragrances for summer
5 perfumes: spicy fragrances for summer
Day to Night Perfume for Summer

Filed Under: perfume talk
Tagged With: 5 perfumes, by kilian, iris, loccitane, parfums delrae, penhaligons, prada, summer

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90 Comments

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  1. Kelly says:
    9 June 2015 at 2:02 pm

    I don’t much care for it, but many people like AdP’s Iris Nobile – I find it sort of characterless. Maybe I’m just so used to a deep, earthy iris. I’ve also only tried this once, but it was so wispy and pretty, Malle’s Iris Poudre. That could work for summer I think.

    And this one might be a bit much for summer, but I just tried Van Cleef and Arpel’s Bois d’Iris and that is stunning!

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 2:17 pm

      I loved the EdT and would have included that too if it hadn’t got axed. Never loved the EdP they sell now.

      The VCA will make my fall or winter list (probably winter) for sure!

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  2. ihadanidea says:
    9 June 2015 at 2:40 pm

    Crabtree and Evelyn discontinued the Iris!? Gaaaaah. To the discounters I go.

    Thanks for your iris-guidance!

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 2:48 pm

      To be precise, they’ve removed it from their website. I actually don’t follow them closely enough to be 100% sure that means they’ve discontinued it.

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      • ihadanidea says:
        9 June 2015 at 3:06 pm

        Still – thanks Robin!

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        • Robin says:
          9 June 2015 at 3:35 pm

          De nada 🙂

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  3. eswift83 says:
    9 June 2015 at 2:47 pm

    I love iris too, and can’t believe I haven’t tried Mythique… especially with THOSE descriptors! And I love VC&A Bois d’Iris as well…

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 2:49 pm

      I admit I adored Panache (same concept but vetiver) and did not 100% adore Mythique (I do like it), but I do think Angie’s review is spot on. And very much worth a try!

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  4. JolieFleurs says:
    9 June 2015 at 2:47 pm

    Back when I was searching for an iris to love, I was sent a generous amount of TDC Bois D’ Iris by a lovely swapper (thanks, Lauren!) and I have found I love it most during the summer.

    I think the woods keep it kind of crisp and dry, which is perfect for the hell that is a Southern summer!

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 2:49 pm

      It will make my list for some season, not sure which — but agree, I’d wear it in summer. I’d wear Iris Silver Mist in summer…

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  5. littlecooling says:
    9 June 2015 at 3:00 pm

    My fave Iris summer scent is the Hiris one…so beautiful 🙂

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 3:35 pm

      I adore Hiris!

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      • littlecooling says:
        9 June 2015 at 4:11 pm

        It is so gorgeous…I could wear it all year..but it seems to be more of a Spring/Summer scent for me 🙂 It always makes me think of great vacations in the country side 🙂

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        • Robin says:
          9 June 2015 at 4:57 pm

          I have not thought through all the seasons yet, but I think Hiris is spring for me?

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          • littlecooling says:
            10 June 2015 at 8:14 am

            I think it would be for me too. I have been wearing it a lot through this Spring and I wore it yesterday. The warm weather hasn’t really kick in here in Denmark, yet…it is still mild..so it had that lovely Spring like feeling 🙂
            I do think Hiris would work all year around, but perhaps I would love a little more of a warm scent through winter 🙂

    • Deva says:
      9 June 2015 at 3:46 pm

      This is my pick too!

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    • Hamamelis says:
      9 June 2015 at 4:06 pm

      Mine too. Big love.

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  6. chandler_b says:
    9 June 2015 at 3:04 pm

    My almost empty bottle of Infusion D’homme is my favorite iris. Guess I need to get another bottle soon before they change it up.

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 3:36 pm

      I would…it’s worrisome that they did not include it in this new series. But maybe I’m being overly cautious.

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  7. nathanthomas50 says:
    9 June 2015 at 3:17 pm

    Zegna Essenze collection has a very lovely iris – “Florentine Iris”

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 4:01 pm

      That one was quite nicely done — I need to try the rest of the collection.

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  8. bastet says:
    9 June 2015 at 3:36 pm

    Does Chanel 19 EDT count? I love this in the spring and summer, and iris is definitely a prominent note on me.

    I also enthusiastically agree with Infusion d’Iris – I wear the original in summer, and the Absolu version in cooler weather.

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    • mals86 says:
      9 June 2015 at 3:51 pm

      Tons of iris in 19, I agree.

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 4:02 pm

      Of course it counts!

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  9. meredifay says:
    9 June 2015 at 4:00 pm

    Iris! I love and wear Iris Poudre and Scent of Hope (Iris and peach!) in my current rotation. I am not wearing VCA Bois d’Iris just cause I am out of sample, and I have not yet bought a decant or a split of this. I went through two bottles of the Prada, and decided to move up, so I have not replaced it, but once it gets to being 85 degrees here every day I probably will get some more of it too….Silver Iris I find too sweet, Iris Silver Mist I like to wear outside, but it is too rooty for my delicate coworkers. Ah, iris!

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 4:02 pm

      I need to try Silver Iris again, but did not love it the first time.

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  10. Filomena says:
    9 June 2015 at 4:01 pm

    I love all of the aforementioned Iris scents with the exception of AdP’s.
    My all time favorite any season of the year is Hiris, If I could only pick one scent to live with for the rest of my it would be Hiris.

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 4:03 pm

      Hiris is worthy! I wish they had not messed with the packaging.

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  11. johanob says:
    9 June 2015 at 4:03 pm

    Yay!Lists!Iris!Two of my favorite things!May I add some “summernights-Iris-fumes”?Lol.Chanel No 18 is gorgeous on a hot(!!!) Summers’ night.Bendelirious is my ultimate favorite cherry-cola/Iris clubbing-in-the-city till the sun comes up perfume!I tend to think of Iris as a cooling note in most perfumes I adore,like No.19 and Iris Silver Mist.Prada Infusion D’Iris is probably like a little black dress,so easy to wear and perfect(I think?) for all sesons!

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 4:10 pm

      Lovely, thanks! Great description of Bendelirious.

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  12. hollis1961 says:
    9 June 2015 at 4:10 pm

    I really enjoy Chanel No. 19 Poudre. I know that many folks were disappointed with this, especially those who love the sharpness of the original No. 19. But the soft iris and eventual powdery drydown of this flanker are soft and dreamy, and work very well for me.

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 6:36 pm

      Perfect then! And IIRC, it works in warm weather too.

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    • Holly says:
      9 June 2015 at 7:04 pm

      I love this,too. I guess I think of it as being comforting, therefore more fitting for winter. Mind you, I personally would wear it year round.

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  13. lucasai says:
    9 June 2015 at 4:16 pm

    Laboratorio Olfattivo Daimiris is the one smells suitable for summer if you ask me.
    Also, Chanel 29 La Pausa doesn’t seem like a bad choice?

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    • lucasai says:
      9 June 2015 at 4:20 pm

      And Acqua di Parma Acqua Nobile Iris

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    • johanob says:
      9 June 2015 at 4:29 pm

      Is 29 La Pausa a flanker to 28 La Pausa?Hehe!….an amped up 28 La Pausa with more of everything would be really awesome though!

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      • lucasai says:
        9 June 2015 at 4:35 pm

        Sorry, I meant 28 La Pausa 😛

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      • Robin says:
        9 June 2015 at 4:58 pm

        Agree, that would be awesome 🙂

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    • Holly says:
      9 June 2015 at 4:34 pm

      Yes, I agree with you on the 28 La Pausa! It’s got that dry, astringent feel to it that I find cooling.

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      • lucasai says:
        9 June 2015 at 4:35 pm

        If only it lasted longer. 3 hours and it’s gone…

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    • nozknoz says:
      9 June 2015 at 5:22 pm

      I also wear 28 la Pausa in summer. It’s relaxed and cool.

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  14. Glannys says:
    9 June 2015 at 4:22 pm

    Iris is an acquired taste for me. I still do not quite get along with an earthy, carrot-like iris (unless it is balanced by something else), but I started to appreciate a lighter iris. When we did the Prada challenge, I sampled Infusion d’Iris and wrote that I was meh about it. But it grew on me. It is indded a very nice clean and fresh summer scent.
    My personal iris favorite is Shalimar Parfum Initial L’Eau (sadly discontinued), although I suppose it belongs to the spring category. I do not think I would choose it on a really hot day, but for a cooler weather or summer evenings, why not? It is powdery with subtle citrus notes.

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 5:00 pm

      Maybe some of the new infusions will appeal to you when they launch…

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  15. AnnieA says:
    9 June 2015 at 4:25 pm

    I like SL Bas de Soie, although that might count as being more on the hyacinth side.

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    • johanob says:
      9 June 2015 at 4:28 pm

      You’re right,that is a pretty iris I think!Was my sotd on Monday!

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 5:01 pm

      And not (to me, anyway) a hot weather scent. Maybe spring?

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      • johanob says:
        9 June 2015 at 5:35 pm

        I agree,we’re in the beginning of winter here down south in Africa,Bas de Soie was perfect on the chilly Monday!

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        • Robin says:
          9 June 2015 at 6:37 pm

          Oh, of course — then Bas de Soie it is!

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  16. scentfromabove says:
    9 June 2015 at 4:39 pm

    I might need to give “iris” another shot. Last summer, I sampled L’Artisan’s “Skin on Skin” and it literally made me nauseated. Someone from NST told me it was probably the “iris” note in it. After that, I swore off anything basically that had iris in it.
    I might try some of these to see if I would like it.
    Thanks for the article, Robin! I learn so much from you and the rest of the crew at NST.

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    • Janice says:
      9 June 2015 at 5:02 pm

      That’s funny, I was just going to mention Skin on Skin as a sort of easy-to-wear iris. I know many people found it disappointing and it certainly doesn’t match the sexy image of the marketing, but I find it a pleasant, musky iris with an interesting saffron note. It’s actually like an easier version of Daimiris that Lucas mentioned above, which I like a lot, but I find the first 20 minutes or so really harsh and difficult to get through.

      I bet Infusion d’Iris would be a good one to try to get a sense of whether you like the note.

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      • scentfromabove says:
        9 June 2015 at 9:24 pm

        Thanks for the suggestion on Infusion. Maybe it wasn’t just the iris in SOS, but a combination of that with other notes. Not sure, but I will give it another go.

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    • Merlin says:
      9 June 2015 at 5:10 pm

      Have you tried Jo Malone’s Iris and White Musk?

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      • scentfromabove says:
        9 June 2015 at 9:25 pm

        Funny..I am a JM fanatic and haven’t tried this one. Thanks.

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 5:11 pm

      Oh, do try a few more to be sure!

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      • scentfromabove says:
        9 June 2015 at 9:26 pm

        I will. Shouldn’t give up so quickly.

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  17. Holly says:
    9 June 2015 at 4:48 pm

    I’ll add the very unsophisticated (ie cheap) Yardley Iris. After the initial citric alcohol blast, it becomes an iris soliflore that is bright, crisp and slightly herbal. As it warms up, it transforms into a soft, rounded very slightly vegetal iris.
    I use it all year round and it’s awesome for layering, but I think summer is its season if I had to pick one.

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 5:11 pm

      Thank you, we need a cheap one to replace the Crabtree & Evelyn!

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    • Annikky says:
      9 June 2015 at 5:34 pm

      I must try this…

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    • Lindaloo says:
      9 June 2015 at 5:40 pm

      Yes to good old Yardley. I use the Iris talc frequently in the summer (indeed wore it yesterday on our unseasonably warm Pacific Northwest coast day). The Yardley canister describes it as warming and spicy with a citrus opening. I find it beautifully cooling and a little sweet.

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  18. Barqs says:
    9 June 2015 at 4:51 pm

    I’m a big fan of Infusion d’Iris, Chanel No. 19 and The Different Company After Midnight. I love Iris fragrances. I haven’t made it to L’Occitane to try Iris Bleu & Iris Blanc, but my friend gave me the soap for my birthday last month. Its really pretty.

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 5:11 pm

      Ah, I should get the soap…

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  19. Merlin says:
    9 June 2015 at 4:53 pm

    One day I will have to get my hands on Dzongkha, as it occurs to me when there is a best of iris question AND when there is a best of incense question. Though, if I remember correctly the lasting power is a bit feeble…

    And, not yet mentioned – Heure Exquise with its top of green galbanum, and Nuit de Iris, which pairs iris with violet for a silver mauve dusky effect.

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 6:39 pm

      Yes, works for both! And I know many people think of it as a summer scent, but to me it is fall or spring.

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      • cazaubon says:
        9 June 2015 at 6:42 pm

        Dzongkha is great all year long for me!

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  20. nozknoz says:
    9 June 2015 at 5:27 pm

    Really hot summer days are the only time I really appreciate Infusion d’Iris.

    Now I’m annoyed with myself because I accidentally layered Infusion d’Iris with something recently that worked really well, and I can’t remember what it was. 🙁 It was something woody-smoky-incensey, like Miller Harris Fleurs de Sel, but less interesting than that. I suppose I’ll remember the next time I see it….

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 6:39 pm

      Oh drat, I hate that!

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  21. girardEAU says:
    9 June 2015 at 5:37 pm

    Iris is a very popular fragrance topic! 🙂

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 6:39 pm

      But of course!

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  22. Annikky says:
    9 June 2015 at 5:42 pm

    I don’t think I have found my perfect summer iris yet, but Iris Silver Mist actually works for me in the summer, unless it’s very hot – and it hardly evere is, here. My favourite time for it is March, but no reason not to wear it during the Nordic summer. Like nozknoz, I appreciate Infusion d’Iris when it’s really warm. And for me, the Chanels – No 19, Rue Cambon, La Pausa – work more-or-less anytime.

    L’Occitane iris was a disappointment for me, but I bought the shower gel and it’s nice.

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 6:40 pm

      I wear ISM year round myself. And good to know about the shower gel — I meant to try the hand cream and forgot all about it.

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    • floragal says:
      9 June 2015 at 8:18 pm

      2nd vote for Rue Cambon. Year-rounder for me too!

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  23. Elisa P says:
    9 June 2015 at 5:53 pm

    Love an iris list! I also like TDC very much, Iris Poudre, and the Prada, although I have the absolue which feels a bit to warm to me for hot weather. But I hope that one makes the cut as it’s my favorite version! I’ve also been testing out Histoire de Parfums Moulin Rouge which is iris top heavy and then waxy lipstick but actually pretty light and fun, if not slightly campy.

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 6:40 pm

      At the moment I have EdP and Absolue, but if I ever drain the EdP I don’t know if I’ll replace it; I do like the Absolue better.

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  24. Absolute Scentualist says:
    9 June 2015 at 6:06 pm

    I’ve been in love with Body Time’s Iris perfume oil. It’s around $16 for a 1/3 ounce roll-on, and it is musky, soft and long lasting. I have it in a spray on moisturizer (which is wonderful out of the fridge on a hot summer day), shower gel and am considering a lotion as well. I’ve received several “Mmmm… You smell good!” from the kids and even when out and about. It isn’t anything like Iris Silver Mist, and is even less iris heavy than Prada’s interpretation, but for the price, it is gorgeous and very layerable. 🙂

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 6:41 pm

      Hey, I don’t know about that oil! Now I’m tempted to get another custom scented lotion….

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  25. flannery says:
    9 June 2015 at 7:17 pm

    I am one of the lovely iris’s most avid fans and the two I love, to my mind, stand many heads above the rest and I do believe I’ve tried most every iris that has raised its rooty head. I don’t know if there will ever be a more perfect iris fume than Iris Nazarena and Malle’s Iris Poudre and may I always have some on hand 🙂

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 8:38 pm

      Nice picks! I admit IP does not work for me, but also admit I should try it again — it’s been years. IN will certainly go on my winter list, or maybe fall.

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  26. Holly says:
    9 June 2015 at 7:39 pm

    Thank you for doing this series, Robin. I find it really helpful and a lot of fun.
    I have and enjoy the Prada in every formulation, and Iris Prima as well. I personally prefer Iris Prima in hot weather as I find it daintier and somewhat prissy. A lawn handkerchief applied to a cranky sweating brow on the veranda.
    I now want to try Mythique and Prelude to Love. I just re-read the reviews and was surprised these never fully registered.

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    • Robin says:
      9 June 2015 at 8:39 pm

      Oh, “lawn handkerchief applied to a cranky sweating brow on the veranda” is a perfect description! Despite that, I don’t find it too feminine for a man to wear, do you?

      And so glad it’s helpful & fun.

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      • Holly says:
        9 June 2015 at 10:54 pm

        Oh no, any brow would work.

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  27. hajusuuri says:
    9 June 2015 at 9:12 pm

    Iris is my favorite perfume note! In fact, I wore Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue which is my favorite concentration of the Infusions.

    Le Labo Iris 39 is a summer iris for me but it could also work year-round.

    I was lucky to have snapped up a bottle of Crabtree & Evelyn Iris before it disappeared from the store (and before the store itself disappeared from the mall near me).

    And I now have to seek out Mythique although methinks I have a sample buried in Mount Sample but I am too lazy to dig it out!

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    • hajusuuri says:
      9 June 2015 at 9:18 pm

      I forgot to say I wore the absolue TODAY…

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      • Robin says:
        10 June 2015 at 10:18 am

        I love the Absolue. And wish I’d bought the C&E Iris solid…

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  28. galbanumgal says:
    9 June 2015 at 9:17 pm

    Two iris scents that layer surprisingly well together are ISM and Chanel no 19 Poudre. The Poudre smooths out ISM’s rootiness, and the ISM tamps down the Poudre’s prominent musk.

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    • Robin says:
      10 June 2015 at 10:18 am

      Interesting, thanks!

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  29. Bettina says:
    9 June 2015 at 10:56 pm

    For a summer iris I suggest Le Galion Iris. It is fresher and nicely floral compared with the Prada Infusion d’Iris or the woody, leathery notes in Penhaligon’s Iris Prima.

    For me the L’Occitane Iris Bleu et iris blanc is too fruity. However I would love them to bring back the Notre Flore Iris, please.

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    • Robin says:
      10 June 2015 at 10:18 am

      The Notre Flore series was so well done — wish it had been cheaper.

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  30. perthgirl says:
    10 June 2015 at 2:31 am

    I second Merlin’s vote for Dzongkha, which is probably my most worn iris in summer to evoke the cool serenity of a Bhutanese temple, cool flagstones underfoot.
    I also really like Pierre de Lune by Armani/Privé. I wear it year-round, and tbh I like it’s cool smoothness in winter, but it isnt sweet so it works well in hotter weather. And I thought it just deserved a mention 🙂

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  31. austenfan says:
    10 June 2015 at 3:33 am

    The first 2 that sprang to mind as I read this post is Infusion d’iris (I have the regular edp) and Iris Nobile AdP. I still need to retry the IdI absolue which I didn’t like on first try.
    As I love wearing gourmands in summer Dior Homme, Equistrius and Felanilla work really well in warmer weather. My rootier irises tend to be worn more in spring or autumn.

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  32. donanicola says:
    10 June 2015 at 8:40 am

    It’s taken me a good few years to wake up to the fact that I love most iris notes in perfume! You know, you suddenly work out that there’s a trend? The next two perfumes on my to buy list are Felanilla and Iris Nazerena. Now I wouldn’t wear either in heat but since I experience that less and less these days (UK) both tend to work pretty much year round. And I also wear VC&A Bois d’Iris year round too! The other iris I’m fond of which I’m not sure has been mentioned yet and is good in summer is Miller Harris Terre d’Iris.

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Noses ~ Perfumers A-E :: F-K :: L-S :: T-Z

Perfume Houses A-B :: C :: D-E :: F-G
H-J :: K-L :: M :: N-O :: P :: Q-R :: S
T :: U-Z

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